Papua Newguinea (1 Viewer)

Hallo,

has anybody expirience in Papua.
How is it reachable and possible to travel ?
How is the birdlife ( normally should be spectacular ) ?


Best regards
Dieter

Never been there but hope to go.

If anybody goes to a trip to PNG next year let me know - especially if it is a cheap one and includes Huon peninsula endemics.

I visited PNG quite a few years ago and it was difficult travelling. Some birding localities were only reachable by air, either small airplanes or helicopter (but perhaps this has changed and there are more roads now?). Other areas could only be reached by boat. This has an effect on the overall price of the trip of course. While you probably could do it on your own I think it would be recommendable to get help on at least parts of the trip, not at least because some destinations can be rather dangerous (Phil Gregory is good, but he's not cheap). The birding is great, but can be a bit difficult (rather "South American"; i.e. often somewhat slow going). Mammals are few, but there's a good chance of seeing a Cuscus or two and if you're lucky a Tree-kangaroo (I saw Doria's TK). Agile Wallaby was fairly common in the Fly River area. Anyway, the birds on that island certainly are amazing. The Birds-of-Paradise alone should be plenty of reason to visit PNG, with possibilities like Ribbon-tailed Astrapia (the wild bird with the longest tail compared to its body), Black Sicklebill, King-of-Saxony BOP, King BOP, Emperor BOP and of course the breathtaking Blue BOP. Not to forget a supporting cast that include three species of Cassowary's, New Guinea Eagle, the three massive Crowned Pigeons (along with a host of beautiful Fruit-doves), Pesquet's Parrot, Shovel-billed Kingfisher, Jewel-babblers, the poisonous Pitohui's, Crested Berrypecker, Honeyeater gallore, Bowerbirds, and the list goes on...

There's only a few reports on PNG on travellingbirder (former eurobirding), but they're probably still worth checking:

http://www.travellingbirder.com/tripreports/default.php

While the following forum probably can't help you in regards of birding, it is likely to be helpful in getting up-to-date contact info for various lodges/guesthouses (contact info in PNG birding reports often is out-of-date or even missing):

http://www.pngbd.com/forum/index.php?

And another - when I considered going to PNG Australian birders gave me advice which I still remember:
"If you have vision of travelling on your own in remote places, be sure to leave a will - no joking."

Certainly I hope to go one day, Blue BOP is my top bird to see.

I hear this is one of the last places where cannibalism is still practised; try to look 'unsavoury'

The problem in PNG is rampant crime and banditism.

About cannibalism - I think it is only in Congo.

I have a mate planning a similar trip next year, it's certainly far from straightforward

seriously, it is a dangerous place
be as organised as possible
Phil gregory is reputed to be excellent as Rasmus mentioned

Tim

Colin Trotman said:

I hear this is one of the last places where cannibalism is still practised; try to look 'unsavoury'

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Cheers, I'll remember that if I return! Cannibalism has been documented at least into the early 60's in PNG, but seemingly has ceased (but who knows what's happening in the distant regions that remain to be explored). However, it seems the last groups to practice it only ate parts of their relatives when they died a natural death - how nice :eek!: Anyway, not to be recommended as it was proven to be a vector for a rather nasty disease similar to Creutzfeldt-Jacob. As far as I know the only recent & documented examples of cannibalism anywhere in the World have been the lone crazy person or in wars, especially some of those African civil wars seem to result in people doing absolutely insane things.

As I think is clear from previous posts the real problems in PNG are
the remoteness of many localities combined with crime. Indeed, if I'm not mistaken it was on this island Phoebe Snetsinger was viciously raped. However, by planning as much as possible before you leave and using the service of professional people with local contacts you can dramatically minimize the risk of being a victim of crime. As said; it quite certainly is possible to do the whole thing it on your own - but I'm not sure it can be recommended.

Colin Trotman said:

I hear this is one of the last places where cannibalism is still practised; try to look 'unsavoury'

Click to expand...

I did once when living in Jakarta speak to an elderly gentleman from Irian Jaya who said he had eaten human when young. He said that it was very nice.

I fancy a trip to New Guinea the year after next, but can't even decide between Irian Jaya and PNG at the moment. I had intended to get in touch with Kris Tindige to try to arrange something for Irian, but I understand that unfortunately he is seriously ill.

Hi Rhion,

If you were looking into planning a trip to Papua then try to get into contact with Ewain Mauro, as he now lives in Sorong, obviously he'll know wheres the best areas for Arfak Mountains etc, a friend of mine visited the Arfaks last year for 2-3 months, he can't stop talking about the place, the guide for the area 'Zatwonga' (misspelt but is pronounced like that) not only is he relatively cheap but knows everything about the birdlife there, and is an incredibly sharp guide. With him as a guide it is unlikely you will be caught in trouble as he's a well respected local.

Apparently avoid the bars at all cost, when the Papuans drink a little to much their aggression gets a little over the top and it isn't rare for them to chop some limbs off each other!! Don't let this put you off though!

Looking forward to the day I eventually see some Jewel Babblers!

All the best

James

I prepared PNG trip some years ago and quitted because my mate couldn't go and I was afraid on my own.

What I remember now without notes is that you need at least 3 internal flights on mainland - various parts of the country still have no road connection whatsoever. Key ares seems to be: near Port Moresby - Varirata NP and Pacific Adventist University pools, in the west - Kiunga and Tabubil areas, in the centre-north - Tari valley. I did not think about New Britain and other islands.

Tari was described by Phoebe Stetsinger as the best birding place on Earth. This is a spot for eg. Blue BOP. This place used to have extremely expensive luxury Ambua Lodge, but now a cheaper one is in operation.

Most birds of paradise are common within their ranges (even are garden birds!), but crowned pigeons are hard and cassowaries and greater melampitta are not usually seen by trip groups. There are many skulking endemic species which makes me think about an EXPERIENCED guide and tapes.

I thought about including two not usual places - Goroka near Tari for "Goroka Show" incredible festival in June. Tribes from half of PNG gather and dance in their traditional bird-of-paradise feather headdresses and another things. It is most varied and colorful festival - you might have heard that until 1930's every patch in PNG had own culture separated from the rest of the world. Another is Satop on Huon Peninsula - place for some endemics including 3 further BoP.

Cheapest air connection from Europe seems via Cairns. Overall it is pretty expensive. Port Moresby is reported to be one of most dangerous cities on Earth.

http://www.pngbd.com/forum/archive/index.php/

might be useful

while living in Jakarta we got into a late night altercation (as you do) with a Papuan / Irian bloke. Drunk and aggressive is an understatement. When he started making this clicking noise from his throat it chilled us to the bone - it was so unhuman like - the barman shouted to us to leave very quickly.... apparently the noise was what they did prior to killing someone...one of the most frightening episodes in my life.

so, er, be careful!

Tim

James Eaton said:

Hi Rhion,

If you were looking into planning a trip to Papua then try to get into contact with Ewain Mauro, as he now lives in Sorong, obviously he'll know wheres the best areas for Arfak Mountains etc, a friend of mine visited the Arfaks last year for 2-3 months, he can't stop talking about the place, the guide for the area 'Zatwonga' (misspelt but is pronounced like that) not only is he relatively cheap but knows everything about the birdlife there, and is an incredibly sharp guide. With him as a guide it is unlikely you will be caught in trouble as he's a well respected local.

James

Click to expand...

Thanks James - I'll make a note of that.

Tim Allwood said:

[while living in Jakarta we got into a late night altercation (as you do) with a Papuan / Irian bloke. Drunk and aggressive is an understatement. When he started making this clicking noise from his throat it chilled us to the bone - it was so unhuman like - the barman shouted to us to leave very quickly.... apparently the noise was what they did prior to killing someone...one of the most frightening episodes in my life.

so, er, be careful!

Tim

Click to expand...

Lord! This has been the scariest thread that I have read on BirdForum. I thought that the ones dealing with peregrine falcons were bad.
Seriously, a Queensland ornithologist once joined me on a walk that I led for the Manx Ornithological Society to Peel Hill, a local seabird and chough site. Asking him about New Guinea, he said that he had been, but hoodlums (or a word like that) we a problem.

My wife and I spent a month in West Papua (previously called Irian Jaya) in 2003. We'll never be with nicer people in our life. While our trip was more cultural than birding, the birds were magnificent. Friends who have spent time in PNG recently echo the same remarks as previously stated about "Rascals", guns, drugs, and booze.........mainly in the more developed areas. Plan things right--and fly from place to place.

West Papua is incredibly primitive and in most areas pristine. Big changes are coming. More and more will be logged or mined, much less the Human Rights violations that will occur between the Javanese and native Papuans. That being said, our time spent in the Central Highlands, Upper Digul watershead, and some islands off Biak were beyond magical. And the people made it that way. 15,000 foot mountains and the native flora and fauna were an extra bonus. Cannibalism does still occur in South Eastern West Papua. Through pure dumb luck, we ended up being the first Westerners in a certain area. The experience is hard to describe. But from those most primitive on earth, to street kids in Jayapura------we'll never be with nicer folks. You'll hear this from others who've visited West Papua. Some amazing birds await. We were more impressed by those of our own species. Taught us something about humanity........

Chris

Really dont understand why some people describe the island as one of the most dangerous places on earth.

places which is really dangerous for tourists is places such Kenya and Philippine islands. But despite that hundreds of thousands of tourists are visting these regions each year.

I visited Kenya and Zanzibar (Tanzania) 2000, you cant walk on the street of Nairobi if you are so called "white" whithout risking getting both robbed, the hotels are sorrunded by armed guards, every car and person which enters the hotel areas are searched through by guards, if you leave the hotel area to search for some place to take out some money you have to get a armed guard with you, we stayed in Nairobi for 3 days and never welt secure, you felt like living in a prison. Its the same in many places on the Kenyan countryside, we was probably escorted by the military 6 days out of 12 becuase of the chance of either getting kidnapped, robbed or killed was to large.

It was the same on Zanzibar, which by most is described as a "paradise island", we stayed on Zanzibar 7 days and never felt that we were in "paradise", you was trapped in the hotel area almost the whole days.

I have several friends that have visited the Philippines, most islands is not even accesible because its to dangerous, I read a Asian newspapperas recently as a week ago about 14 tourists which had been robbed and murded in Manila, I mean how common is that?

I have to agree with previous speaker about that New Guinea is not THAT dangerous, only place you should watch is Port Moresby and a few other large cities, where tourists easily can be robbed.

I would say that the rest of the island is fairly secure today, most gerillas on the island is gone since many years, very sceptical about that widespread cannibalism still occur here, newspapers here still describe it as a large "culture" of Papua New Guinea and that it still is widespread, but they never seems to provide any concrete info or evidence about it, but as I said Iam very sceptical about the whole thing, maybe a few remote tribes still eat each other, but you cant expect to meet any cannibals while bird watching.

The road network is still very bad in most of the island, but the eastern half is an exception here has the government put down a lot of money to make new and larger roads, which is both good and bad, I prefer the remote, untouched and inaccessibly New Guinea, and if you think that its hard to get to some areas, it some thing that characters the birding of New Guinea, its both god bird watching but also a adventure and it often takes days to get to the best birding sites, but that the charm with it, if you wanted easy birding (such in east Africa) you have chosen the wrong place to go.

Papuan birder