Bristol to Rüppell’s Vulture – the less adventurous sequel
Stirred into belated action by Larry's and other reports, my wife and I have just returned from a 'quick' raid on the Portuguese Rüppell's Vulture, combined with sweeping up a few birds that we hadn't seen on previous visits to the Iberian Peninsula.
We took an evening flight from Bristol to Lisbon, and arrived at Portas de Ródão at around 10:00 the next day. Despite a long and very hot vigil – alternating between the upper and lower viewpoints, and scrutinising every
Griffon Vulture arriving at or departing from the colony – there was no sign of the bird by 18:30 when we reluctantly left to find accommodation in nearby Castelo Branco. Another watch from 08:00 until 11:30 the next morning also drew a blank.
Rather downheartedly, we headed east into Spain. Our spirits were at least partly restored on arrival at Monfragüe – as soon as we climbed up to the castillo, we were greeted by
White-rumped Swifts making close flypasts (our previous visit many years ago had been too early in the spring for these late migrants). As a bonus, later in the afternoon we enjoyed our best ever views of
Spanish Imperial Eagle – an adult circling low over Portilla del Tietar.
We spent the next morning mostly birding the steppes between Trujillo and Cáceres, and then headed north to Piedrahíta at the foot of the Sierra de Gredos for two key targets in this beautiful area. We'd arranged to meet BirdForum's Motmot (Eduardo Amengual), and we enjoyed a pleasant dinner and a few beers together in the plaza. Eduardo advised us to make a dawn visit to Puerto de la Peña Negra (the summit of the road that traverses the Sierra de Piedrahíta) for unspotted
Spanish Bluethroat (
azuricollis). Next morning we drove up the mountain in darkness, and as the sun appeared over the horizon, we soon located three very showy singing males. After breakfast back in the plaza, we met Eduardo again and he kindly accompanied us to an area of oak woodland at nearby El Barrio, where he had located a few pairs of
Iberian Pied Flycatchers (
iberiae). The birds initially proved to be rather elusive, with frustratingly brief views of two very flighty singing males. But eventually we found a much more cooperative breeding pair which gave excellent views.
Then it was back to Portugal for a third attempt at Rüppell's Vulture, arriving at Portas de Ródão at about 16:00. But there was still no sign of our prime target before we once again retired to Castelo Branco at 19:00, although a good selection of other raptors (including the local pair of
Bonelli's Eagles) kept us interested. We were on site again at 08:00 the next morning, for our fourth (and last) attempt. By now, Griffon Vulture was definitely my least favourite species, and at times I was even tempted to throw myself off the cliff! At midday we admitted defeat and dejectedly left the upper viewpoint for the last time, convinced that the Rüppell's Vulture had gone AWOL. I'd definitely had enough, but on the descent to Vila Velha de Ródão, Erica insisted on having one last scan of the colony from the lower viewpoint. She set up the 'scope, and within seconds calmly announced that she was looking at 'Rupert'! Sure enough, the
Rüppell's Vulture was now perched on one of the most prominent rocks, preening in perfect light and even spreading his wings occasionally to reveal the underwing pattern. Needless to say, we suffered well-deserved hangovers the next morning...
We had several chance encounters with our other main target,
Iberian Green Woodpecker (
sharpei), including one on our first full day, although it was just a heard-only for us at Larry's site in the Serra da Arrábida.
I'm slightly ashamed to admit that we also found time to visit the regular sites for the local plastic selection – thanks to Rich Bonser for providing a copy of his very useful 2011 trip report. These included
Black-headed Weaver and
Yellow-crowned Bishop, our first WP
Crested Mynas, and our first Europe
Common Waxbills and
Red Avadavats. But, as per some other recent reports, we failed to find any munia spp at either Rilvas or Zambujal.
PS. 'Rupert' was actually on exactly the same pinnacle as in
Paul's photo, but on the apex of the triangular rock face about two metres lower.