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Newbie! (1 Viewer)

Hi all! I'm completely new to digiscoping, so bear with me. I've read as much as I can without my eyes turning red, and think I'm leaning towards a preferred set up. I've been dissatisifed with the reach of a Canon 70d with 400m f/5.6 lens, and the quality of the Canon SX50 HS 1200mm superzoom that replaced it.

I'm an amateur photographer already, so have a decent Manfrotto 055ProB tripod and a Fuji X-E2 with which I plan to digiscope with.

I haven't bought a scope yet, but have my heart set on the Kowa 883 with the 20-60 wide angle zoom. Any suggestions that might change my mind?

In terms of lenses, I have two lined up - a 35mm f/1.4 and a 56mm f/1.2. The latter is heavier but marginally brighter and longer, the former is much lighter and no slouch in terms of sharpness either. Which would be the better lens for digiscoping? I'm assuming I won't see vignetting on either, but I'm guessing the 56mm might use the sharper/lower CA portion of the scope's image (i.e. the middle).

A couple of questions - do I shoot with the camera lens wide open for brightness, or is it better to stop it down a bit for sharpness? I'm not sure of what effect the lens settings have on a digiscoping setup.

Also, what's the preferred focussing technique? Lens at infinity and focus manually using the scope, or coarse with the scope and autofocus with the camera? The X-E2 has focus peaking which should help if doing it manually.

Sorry for the essay, cheers for any replies!
 
PS,

I read your post yesterday but can't help you with any of the camera questions. It isn't how I digiscope. One of the others might be able to help and/or you might have more luck posting this in the Digiscoping camera subforum.

The only comment I can offer is in relation to the scope choice. I belong to the Facebook Digiscoping page and check out all of the photos posted on there each day. Equipment selection is listed as part of each picture's post. By far I see two scopes listed above all others...the Kowa 88 series and either of the two larger Swaro ATX scopes. So, in other words, I don't think you can really go wrong with your current scope choice.
 
Hi Sammy and a warm welcome to you from all the Staff and Moderators.

I'm sorry no-one has been along yet to help you. I can't advise at all on your camera, I'm afraid.

From my digiscoping days, I remember that light was one of the most important things, after getting the right fit between the two lenses.
 
LOL I cross-posted with Frank.

You're in the correct forum with this post.... don't know where he was looking;)
 
PS,

I read your post yesterday but can't help you with any of the camera questions. It isn't how I digiscope. One of the others might be able to help and/or you might have more luck posting this in the Digiscoping camera subforum.

The only comment I can offer is in relation to the scope choice. I belong to the Facebook Digiscoping page and check out all of the photos posted on there each day. Equipment selection is listed as part of each picture's post. By far I see two scopes listed above all others...the Kowa 88 series and either of the two larger Swaro ATX scopes. So, in other words, I don't think you can really go wrong with your current scope choice.


Thanks for the reply :)

I've decided against the Kowa 883, and gone for a more beginner setup - a Hawke Frontier ED 85 that seems to get good reviews and punches above its weight. I guess if I really get into it, I can splash out on something a bit fancier!

From what I've seen while researching, sharp results are far more dependent on technique than the quality of the glass.
 
Thanks for the reply :)

I've decided against the Kowa 883, and gone for a more beginner setup - a Hawke Frontier ED 85 that seems to get good reviews and punches above its weight. I guess if I really get into it, I can splash out on something a bit fancier!

From what I've seen while researching, sharp results are far more dependent on technique than the quality of the glass.

PS,


I would both agree and disagree with your last statement. The quality level of the spotting scope can play a huge difference in the results ultimately obtained with digiscoping. Having said that, you don't need to have a $2000-$4000 spotting scope to get results you can be happy with. I have certainly been happy with the results I have been getting lately and my scope is well under $1000.

I have seen some positive comments about the Hawke scope you mentioned. If you haven't already purchased it then I would also suggest that you take a look at the Celestron M2-ED 80 mm as well. The reason I might suggest it over the Hawke is its ability to utilize 1.25 inch astro eyepieces. I personally find that using a good quality, fixed power (20-30x) wide angle eyepiece makes a difference in digiscoping for a variety of reasons. For one the wider field of view reduces vignetting in your pictures. Two, the wider angle makes it easier to initially get onto your intended target. Lastly, though not always the case, many of the fixed power eyepieces have fewer lens elements giving you more light transmission and/or a brighter more contrast-filled image.

Just something to think about.

Delia,

I was thinking that he might have more luck in the sub-forum on digiscoping cameras. I know that many folks, myself included at times, tend to focus on specific subforums rather than post in the general digiscoping forum. Of course it is entirely appropriate here. I was just thinking he might get more responses "up there". :)
 
Delia,

I was thinking that he might have more luck in the sub-forum on digiscoping cameras. I know that many folks, myself included at times, tend to focus on specific subforums rather than post in the general digiscoping forum. Of course it is entirely appropriate here. I was just thinking he might get more responses "up there". :)

Aaaah!!! ummm... well that subforum had completely passed me by Frank LOL.

Sammy - I can move your thread there if you wish.
 
Hi all! I'm completely new to digiscoping, so bear with me. I've read as much as I can without my eyes turning red, and think I'm leaning towards a preferred set up. I've been dissatisifed with the reach of a Canon 70d with 400m f/5.6 lens, and the quality of the Canon SX50 HS 1200mm superzoom that replaced it.

I'm an amateur photographer already, so have a decent Manfrotto 055ProB tripod and a Fuji X-E2 with which I plan to digiscope with.

I haven't bought a scope yet, but have my heart set on the Kowa 883 with the 20-60 wide angle zoom. Any suggestions that might change my mind?

In terms of lenses, I have two lined up - a 35mm f/1.4 and a 56mm f/1.2. The latter is heavier but marginally brighter and longer, the former is much lighter and no slouch in terms of sharpness either. Which would be the better lens for digiscoping? I'm assuming I won't see vignetting on either, but I'm guessing the 56mm might use the sharper/lower CA portion of the scope's image (i.e. the middle).

A couple of questions - do I shoot with the camera lens wide open for brightness, or is it better to stop it down a bit for sharpness? I'm not sure of what effect the lens settings have on a digiscoping setup.

Also, what's the preferred focussing technique? Lens at infinity and focus manually using the scope, or coarse with the scope and autofocus with the camera? The X-E2 has focus peaking which should help if doing it manually.

Sorry for the essay, cheers for any replies!

I use Canon bodies, and a Swarovski ATS 80 scope, so can offer some insights as far as your camera/lens choice goes. Much of what you read about technique will apply to any scope system you choose. But before you buy into a system try to ensure that you know how you are going to connect your camera to the scope, and with which lens/adapter?

Spotting scopes were not originally designed as a photography tool, so a fair amount of trial and error from different 'pioneers' over recent years has resulted in some successful combinations that have become popular with many users. Some are better than others! and a key indicator to future success could depend on whether the scope manufacturer has introduced a range of adapters to enable you to use your camera and scope together. As I said, I use Swarovski, but there are other equally suitable products out there, and many users make there own DIY adapters.

To answer a couple of your questions:

The aperture of the rig will be limited by your scope, with which , unlike a camera lens, you cannot change the aperture. Typically you will be shooting somewhere around f9-f11, so good light is important to good results.

As for stopping down the camera lens, there has been some discussion about this here in the past. As far as I can remember it goes something like this: The light coming through the exit pupil of the scope eyepiece will equate to something like f5.6 on your camera lens. In other words, opening the lens up further will result in little gain in shutter speeds (in theory). I usually use my Canon 40mm pancake either wide open at f2.8, or stopped down a little to f4, and I'm sure I do see a little extra benefit in SS from f5.6. Experimentation is the key!

Likewise, I don't know the lenses you mention, but it's worth experimenting, if only by hand holding each one to the scope's eyepiece to see how well they perform. This will tell you whether each combination will 'play together' first, then you can worry about how you connect them up.

Focussing is an art in itself! Personally I use live view, magnified to 5x or 10x which helps immensely, but only if you have good close-up vision. My ageing eyes are struggling though and newer technologies such as focus peaking should help with this in the future. I generally put the lens in MF and manually focus with the scope. I couldn't tell you whether minimum focus or infinity is best-probably worth trying somewhere in the middle. I think the scope generally compensates as you manually focus it, no matter where the camera lens is set.

I contributed to this thread a while ago, regarding the Canon 600D for digiscoping so would recommend you read that too. Much of it will apply also to your 70D, but of course that body will be a little heavier-always a consideration when hanging a heavy camera from the back of a scope!

http://www.birdforum.net/showthread.php?t=274579
 
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Thanks Steve, lots of really useful stuff in there. I've got a few ideas in my head, if I find a successful set up I'll make sure I post it on here!

Frank - I got a great deal on the Hawke, so while normally it's priced very closely to the Celestron I got the Hawke for about 2/3rds of the price. Also, I've been very impressed by a set of Hawke Frontier ED 8x43 bins that I've owned since last year, so I was willing to give the equivalent scope a chance.
 
Pablosammy,

One option to consider when using a DSLR body is using a refractor scope and prime focusing method. Checkout the section .
 
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