They did improve the focus wheel in the newer black Zeiss SF. I would still rank Nikon first and Zeiss and Canon a close second when it comes to focus wheels. The Nikon EDG II is how all focus wheels should be. Incredibly smooth.
It certainly SHOULD NOT make it too restricted. If you are getting the overlapping circles (the figure 8) like in the movies, you’re way out of collimation, unless you're looking at a VERY close target. The movies offer such an image to show the moviegoer that someone is looking through a binocular—it’s strictly a Hollywood crutch. That view has nothing to do with what a well-adjusted bino SHOULD be offering your eyes. :cat:
Bill
Since I use two fingers to focus I prefer a tighter action. I do not like sensitive mechanisms that move at the slightest touch.They did improve the focus wheel in the newer black Zeiss SF. I would still rank Nikon first and Zeiss and Canon a close second when it comes to focus wheels. The Nikon EDG II is how all focus wheels should be. Incredibly smooth.
I HAD to use two fingers when I had the Habicht 8x30. One wasn't strong enough. I understand though. The Zeiss focus wheel tension is a little stiffer than the Nikon's or Canon's. All three are very good though.Since I use two fingers to focus I prefer a tighter action. I do not like sensitive mechanisms that move at the slightest touch.
Surprisingly (?) I do in fact set my binoculars for my own PERSONAL IPD - I point out the times I've looked through my brother's because he sets his slightly narrower IPD to see a single circle, but when looking through them, I don't, although the closer the barrels are, the more they should merge.
My standard targets for sighting in my binoculars are text on signboards from around 200m to over 600m away...and the most comfortable view for me is when the circles overlap. I don't see double images, but the circles do overlap, Hollywood style. I have tried bringing the barrels closer together, especially after reading that is how it should be done, but Hollywood style just seems to suit me best. Maybe it's the impression of a wider field of view that I'm liking. Shame I can't wire my eyes to YouTube to show you what I'm seeing.
Has anyone felt that the Porros promote a less tiresome or stressful view, especially for older eyes, possibly more forgiving to aging eyes?
I had not felt this way until just recently, when I had started having some problem in my one eye, due to fluid loss, and an increase in floaters. It seems once you pass 60 or so, these things occur often, and are just a part of the life cycle for some of us when age catches up with our eyes!
My preference has always been for Porros, though I have other roof prism binos that I like a lot too. Until I started to notice a difference in a much easier view from my Porros (just today), and more eye strain from my roofs in the same conditions.
Anyone else have been there with this, or am I just letting my aging, and also fatigued eyes (due to bad sleep, and allergies) dictate what seems best at this moment in binos?
Or is it possible that I just happened on a new roof bin that was not collimated well enough, that it seemed that my view was more stressful than normal, and owing to my aging eyes, I may have just attibuted it to that? I know it's hard to say for each individual, but maybe you've noticed something along the same lines as I have?
Hey, I don't even quite know what I said in that last post, but my advice is don't try to figure it out-if I can't, then forget it! ; ) I was probably tired-that's when words and thoughts go wrong for me.
What I have learned lately is that setting the diopter well seems to make a big difference to my eyes, and they haven't been great lately-watering like allergies are making them irritated, which isn't helping my viewing of course.
I also found that under certain lighting conditions, items appear not to be as sharply focused (bright overcast) as they are in better light (partly cloudy), but using the same binoculars, so now I know it's not the binocular. But rather the lighting, and my eyes at times, and other times, the diopter settings that affect the apparent sharpness and quality of the view. And of course, IPD and eyecup settings too.
So I have learned some important things from this strange view I first experienced with a new pair of bins, and not to jump to conclusions about it until I checked all the variables I now realize contribute to this, in any bin, whether roof or Porro.
I should probably buy Bill Cook's book to learn more about binoculars in general, and some other fine points about their design and usage. I would like to know a little more about the differences in designs that affect
what we see and why. Got anything like that in the book Bill? Sounds like Chuck really enjoyed it!