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Cape Birding (something from the private archives (1 Viewer)

Wes Hobarth

Registered User
Not the trip Report Part One to finish

Day One

Well, it is long over now, but the early morning of 28 August 2004 was to see 8 days of purpose driven life begin, as we emerged bleary eyed and greasily unwashed from the unfestive melee that is common to transit concourses the world over.

Yesterday evening we had played spot the other Naturetreckers at departure gate ZZZ999 in LHR’s Terminal 1, Hell on Earth. We made 4 out of a possible 12 and established early contact, just in case there was anyone in whose Safari Jeep we definitely didn’t want to be. One middling Chap, I discover does some occasional Tour Leading for WildWings and is not only chummy with Tony Marr, but has even been to China with him. It seems that a certain previous China trip has become famous in Marr’s mind as he regales subsequent groups with a story about the trip where they all wanted to go shopping instead of Birding. A bit rich when we had 2 hours one afternoon mooching around Biede to absorb some street culture. Mmmmh!

The sunlight is bright after the fluorescent night-gloom of the plane and we all squint at each other, making first impressions count, with general struggling as tripods are hastily extracted from suitcases and assembled with scopes in hopeful anticipation.

The wagons are 2 VW 7 seater hard tops one with a trailer for the main luggage. The leaders are two Likely Afrikaner Lads. Johan, looks the thoughtful Intellectual, Neil, clearly fancies himself as a bit tasty, though something of his Jizz suggests he has been in better shape.

We end up in Neil’s bus. Apart from me, Norma and Liz as usual, we have Dave and Cym who are easy going dedicated Birders. And then there is Dianna Strange of whom we will hear more.

Despite the overnight flight there is a full days energetic birding to be had before ablutions can be contemplated.

Our route heads towards but around Cape Town central, with some brief stops Birding from the van without disembarking. Misgivings might have begun to form at this point, but I am eager to try and stay awake and not miss more than usual, so I don’t think about it.

Before lunch we stop off at a small SPA Mart, to buy water and some solids for a picnic at a nature reserve on the Cape Flats called Rondevlei. A pleasant place, where Oranges, Gherkins, Cheese and Jerky sandwiches are munchfully enjoyed at convenient tables under thatch canopies. SAA’s excuse for food was entirely and unwholesomely crap, so I am pleased to feel replete on a very cheap repast.

After a leisurely stroll around the reserve a respectable number of Birds have been clocked. Plus my first serious Dip, from which I will not recover. A Hamercop. Other Dips I will make very good are Afro Marsh H, Lanner and Three-banded Plover.

But there is another major site ahead. Strandfontein. A sewage farm. Now I don’t believe anyone has coined the phrase as beautiful as a sewage farm, but it could apply to this place with its landscaped lawns and armed security guards who warn us that if we see a certain vehicle with false number plates, it is to be avoided. Rough with the smooth as ever.

Eventually we arrive at the Afton Guest House, our home for the next two nights, in the small human habitat of Nordhoek on the Cape Peninsula. Bird of the day is a Chaffinch in the gardens of the establishment. One of the only introduced species, apart from Gorbal-Boy-Common Starling to make a go of it in this neck of the woods. Feral Common Peafowl also inhabit the curtilage of the Guest House and their sexual activity is quite noisy in the late Afro winter and beginnings of spring.

But before tiffin, ze Bird Count Mussen happen. I realise I have a count of 79 for the day, all of which are new for the Country, as I have never been here before, let alone the southern hemi. Und neues vogelien for my life list stands at 46 already.

It is dinner time. We have to sit as two parties in separate rooms. We lose Dianna, but gain Mike and Meriel from Surrey via Northern Ireland at our table. Something is nagging away at me as to why I feel a sense of relief. The fodder is good and traditional and most edible, but I regret after a bottle or so of the local Shiraz and at this distance, I can’t remember what the **** it was.

Time for bed, tomorrow is the Pelagic and we leave from Simons town harbour, allegedly, at about dawn. 07.00 hours. How many Albatross will we see drowned by the Long liners?



Day Two.

Seats in the bus. Joining literature informs us that we must change around to afford everyone the opportunity of the best selection of views through cloudy low–spec glass that negates the reason for buying Leica or Swaro Optics. But I note Dianna has chosen the best seat on the bus. The same one as yesterday. Everyone else has been musical about it, even though we are only driving to the harbour in the dark. Perhaps we are the mugs. Nein, the principle must be established. Bust rest assured it will be another two days, before the matter comes to an unsavoury head. Dianna, by the way is a Dentist from Slough. I now have a revelation as we pass through the mountain Pass and I am in the front passenger seat, with some access to the rear view mirror (they drive like we do out there) and as Dianna was on the right middle of the bus I had plenty of time to conclude that her visage did not reflect in the mirror. Ok, so her soul is of the night, but why could I not bring myself to look her anywhere near the eye or her face for that matter. Surreptitious side-long glances were the best I could muster. Someone who has been around for several millennia. The tightly drawn skin and beaky features convinced me we had a Vampire Pterodactyl from the ancient void in our midst.

We get to the harbour and make a rare disembarkation from the Vans. The Boat is on South African time so it is late. I get the opportunity for a few smokes. Both Neil and Johan like a smoke also. This now underground social activity allows me the allusion to meld with them in ways that others do not have. Johan remains conservative and reveals little of his true self. But Snake Oil Salesman Neil blabbers more than enough for both of them. On this quayside I realise a little cultivation of Neil would give me more than enough Hiaasen type material for a novel of tour de farce. I go straight for the jocular vein, target strategic ratbags, then impale them on the end of my pen

The Pelagic starts late, so I have had time to think the above through.

We are assured 4 guides on this trip. A ratio of one two three. Ian Sinclair, prime author of the SASOL boek cries off sick, a signature down the drain then. Two special forces merchants and a lanky ****** turn up however. Lanky W turns out to be the only one with any shove or care on the whole trip. The SAS types cower in the bridge with the captain for a whole nine hours and do no more than late report a soft-plumaged petrel which no one else got on as far as I know. This was the most expensive venture of the trip at ninety five sobs a head.

Neil with his loose tongue, informed me that there are only three sub contractors who do this “work” and they are all shit because they have the market sown up and don’t care.

Nonetheless, twenty miles offshore, despite mist, much spray, heavily choppy swell and three victims who produced their own Chuntering Churn Aft and an evening on sure up a valley near Nordhoek I managed 54 species, 36 new for the Country, 32 Lifer’s and another big Dip on Cape Grassbird. Tonight we went out to eat. I think I had Linefish de Jour. The things you do when you don’t feel like cutting the grass.



Cape Birding Part Two

Day three

Starts with a super fried breakfast. Yesterday’s was a light continental because of the voyage. But before I expose today’s happenings something more on the birds we have seen. A lot of them down here have Cape as their Forename. So far we have had Teal, Francolin, Turtle Dove, Bulbul, Robin-Chat, Wagtail, White-Eye, Sparrow, Weaver, Canary, Petrel, Gannett, Cormorant, Rock-Thrush, Siskin, Bunting and Gull. I left gull till last to remind me that this would not be somewhere for Paul B-T to come as they only have three varieties. The other two are Hartlaub’s and Grey-Headed and are difficult to tell apart. At the moment we have seen loads of Hartie’s. Apparently the G-H resembles our B-H.. I had my very first Albies’ on the Pelagic, Shy, Atlantic and Indian Yellow-Nosed. We should have got Black Browed but didn’t. Other Petrels were Northern Giant, White-Chinned, EU Storm and Wilson’s Storm. Shears were Great and Sooty. The Great has been a bogey Bird for Dave (WildWings)Fell until now. He was very happy. Apart from the Cape Cormorant, we have also cleaned up on the others, White-Breasted, Bank, Reed, Crowned and the allied Darter. Raptors so far have been African Fish-Eagle and Blick-Shouldered Kite. Had enough listing for the moment? I suspect so.

But another aside before we move on. Out on the sea at the edge of our voyage we encountered a Linefishing trawler and trailed it. The density of Birds was as amazing as the number of fish that were lost off the lines and Gaffed aboard our vessel as Booty for the Captain. Massive King Klip fish by the dozen. The heads were thrown overboard to bring the Flocks within Spitting distance of us. You didn’t even need Bins. Subsequently, the three sickers felt able to express their appreciation at fish being dismembered and gutted beside them. Needless to say I got crapped on by an inquisitive Cape Pet six feet above my head. Although the Sea Birds clearly get some easy pickings off these Liner’s it is a shame they cannot recognise the risk they run. Linefish, btw, is on all restaurant menus as Fish of the Day. You just have to ask what it is. I can tell you King Klip is a meaty melt in the mouth jobbie.

So to day Drie. Except it wasn’t. Very cool and misty. We are to leave Nordhoek and head north through Cape Town to ultimately arrive in Langebaan a hundred and fifty or so Km north on the western Cape. As we load up our belongings a Coup is implemented and Dianna is confined to the same seat. Maybe tomorrow.

Second stop is a slog disembarkation to fruitlessly waste hours trying to pish a Knysna Warbler. The first was wasted effort at the Tokai forest for a Forest Buzz and Canary, which were not to be had.

Things are a bit dismal at the moment because of the weather. So let me tell you a tad more about our Leader’s business. They operate a company called Safari Wise. NatureTrek and other outfits sub-con them to run their Southern Africa adventures. They also do private tours. I can commend them as Brill Organisers and Finders. Neil can spot a minute Lizard on a rock at a thousand yards at 80 Km an hour. This is, however, at the expense of him watching the road. Several shrieks have occurred to draw his attention to the fact that the White Van in front is braking. Neil’s Van, or the Bank’s Van, as he refers to it, is green and not an unsuitable colour.

These wonderful guys can be contacted at either (Neil) [email protected] or (Johan) [email protected] . One way or another, either by private tour or through a UK company we will be going with them to Namibia and the Caprivi Strip next year. If anyone fancies the idea, then please let me know. For a private job, staying in better quality accommodation, than offered by the multi-nationals for the same price then the lads would need a minimum of six. Three are already taken.

But as we set off today, there are still three in the other Bus you do not know about. Perhaps it is time to tell. Eric must come first, a gentle retiree who has already been to Namib with the boys. The remainders are a pair. Ian and Anna. And I mean Pair. Poor Ian is hen-pecked beyond belief. His wife is an ugly old Crone, who has something to do with the Theatrical trade, and can only speak with withering, as she thinks, eternal sarcasm. A ******* Dragon. At least Dianna only does it with body language. I think we have come off best in Neilie’s wheels.

Bugger, I still haven’t got properly around to day three yet. Tomorrow.



Cape Birding Part Three to Finale

Day three continues with our first “tickable” Ostrich. All the five Cormorants except Reed, Sacred, Glossy and Hadeda Ibis, Afro Spoonbill, Greater Flamingo, Blue Crane, Black Harrier, Black Sparrowhawk, Lanner Falcon, Jackal and Steppe Buzzard, our only Wood Sand for the trip, five doves, White-backed Mousebird, Malachite Kingfisher, Afro Hoopoe and Yellow Canary to name but a few. In fact day total was 102 with 28 new for the Country of which 23 were Life Ticks.

One place we stopped was a Wild flower reserve, the Tienie Versveld Reserve, to pick up Cloud Cisticola and Large-billed Lark. I made the Lark but not the Cisticola. This was a major Dip as this was the only location on the trip where this bird could be found.

We now have a two-night stay in the pleasant seaside township of Langebaan. Excellent single story Hotel, with decking outside the room overlooking the bay and crashing waves.

Day four dawns cool and misty again, with another super breakfast at the usual 07.00 hours. There are two main locations today. The West Coast National Park, one of the world’s most important wetland areas that represent almost 30 % of South Africa’s salt marshes and the Veldrif Salt works.

Dianna loses her seat today care of yours truly and I can feel her thunderous looking face without even looking. As we drive along Neil asks her why she is so silent and does not get much of a reply. But generally there is a lot of banter and laughter both in and between the buses. Neil and Johan have intercoms so we can communicate between the two wagons and share jokes and sightings. On one occasion we had Black Harrier over a hill, when the other bus got there only a Pied Crow could be seen in the same spot. There were some bad words from Johan. As a consequence we never told them about the next sighting of Black Harrier we had. This was the others worst Dip.

The Reserve offers the following additions to our list Afro Marsh-Harrier, grey-winged Francolin, Marsh and Curlew Sand, Ruff, Bar-Tailed Godwit, Eu Curlew, Whimbrel, Caspian Tern and Little Swift. But the Salt Pans were to prove a Wader Heaven with Lesser and Greater Flamingo, Spoonbill, Chestnut-Banded, White-Fronted, Kittliz’s, Three-Banded and Grey Plovers, Crowned and Blacksmith Lapwing, Turnstone, Common Greenshank, Red-Necked Stint, Terek, Marsh and Common Sands and our only occurrence of Grey-Headed Gull in among the Cape and Hartlaub’s. Swift, Sandwich and Common Terns were also present.

Roadside specialities included Namaqua Dove, Cape Long-Billed, Karoo, and Red-Capped Larks, Sickle-Winged and Anteating Chat, Chestnut-Vented Tit-Babbler, Bar Throated Apalis, Plain-Backed Pipit and White-Throated Canary

All in all the day provided a stonking tally of 119 species, 33 new for the trip and 15 Lifers. Dined exceeding well tonight on a whopping Fillet Steak at Freddie’s Restaurant, just down the road from the Hotel. Eating out and wine is so cheap here and some of the best food I have had abroad. But the price of Optics isn’t. There were some Africa Birds and Birding Magazines in our room at Nordhoek. Fro the Adverts a pair of Leica Ultravids is an extortionate 17,700 Rand, that’s more than1,770 GBP, twice the price in the UK. I managed to get a copy of the Birding Mag at the Airport on the way back. A quality bi-monthly publication. Think I will subscribe.

Day Five is cool and very misty again. We begin searching around some old Quarries in the hills above Langebaan. Target species, Long–Billed Crombeck, Mountain Wheatear, Southern Grey Tit, Layard’s Tit Babbler, Cape Penduline Tit and Acacia Pied Barbet. It is very quiet and as the weather worsens the only one we get is the Barbet. The other five are serious dips as we will not be visiting suitable habitat again. But we do get fine first views of Verreaux’s Eagle both at rest and flying.

We now leave the area and head inland in a southeasterly direction for a one-night stop near Paarl. We visit Paarl Mountain Reserve for Fiscal Flycatcher which we get on a dead twig on arrival plus something else that is only here that we didn’t and I can’t remember what it was. Next it is another Sewage Farm that is also a Bird Sanctuary. Black Crake, Alpine and African Black Swift are added to the trip. During the day we also picked up Cape Crow, Streaky-Backed Seedeater and African Olive Pigeon but out of the many random stops I can’t remember where. 106 species today with only nine new, but apart from Alpine S and Black Crake the others were Lifers.

Our Hotel tonight is Simondium Country Lodge and in the morning before breakfast we get our only views of Swee Waxbill on the trip.

Today begins with a substantial hike up a mountain pass. The sun is out for once but there is a strong wind. The target is a single bird, a Cape Endemic the Cape Rock-Jumper. Neil says they virtually never get this bird. We arrive at a favourable spot and sit and wait. After some five minutes and a bit of pishing both male and female appear. On the way down, feeling a bit suspicious, I queried with Johan how often they see the Rock-Jumper. Oh every trip he says!

Back at the car park we are having a nibble when a troop of Chacma Baboons comes upon us. There is a mad scramble to shut and lock the vehicles. The Baboons have no trouble opening the supposed Baboon proof Trash Cans. What absolutely amazed me was that when they had finished rooting around, without exception they closed the lids on the cans. They also opened car doors with practised ease. A real bit of excitement. Oh and we also got another new endemic to boot. Cape Sugarbird along with Cape Siskin an endemic we had had earlier on day two but I don’t think I mentioned it.

It is to be a day for endemics. After a lunch of mouth-watering Hake and Chips at a roadside stop Victorin’s Warbler presents itself. There is one other endemic we have seen most days. Orange-breasted Sunbird. Other sunbirds regularly encountered are Malachite and Southern Double-collared.

In the afternoon we visit the Helderburg Nature Reserve, which is quite a jungle. I had stopped to take some photos and as a result lost the rest of the party for most of the time we spent there and as a result missed out on Olive Woodpecker. The only pecker of the trip. There were other compensations to be had in White-rumped Swift, Klaas’s Cuckoo, Cape Batis, Brimstone Canary and African Harrier-Hawk. Back to Nordhoek for two nights with 85 under the belt. 10 new and 9 Lifers.

Cape of Good Hope Reserve and Boulder Beach Penguin Colony take up Day 7 which is very hot and sunny. 81 today with new birds getting tougher to find. Fork-tailed Drongo, African Goshawk and at last the day’s only Lifer of Cape Grassbird was all that the Reserve could offer up. Wandering among the African Penguins at Boulder Beach was amusing and fun to watch their antics. Back at the Hotel we went for a stroll to a reed bed across the road and found a Little Bittern which was a further trip tick.

Had a slap up lunch today at the Two Oceans restaurant at the Cape. King Klip fish with massive prawns various veg and roast potatoes. A culinary triumph and with drinks the most expensive meal of the venture at around 14 quid a head, two or three times more than we normally paid. The food on this holiday has been infinitely superior to anything that America has had to offer.

Last day. Johan left us yesterday evening to drive overnight to Kimberly, so today the other six just have a contract taxi driver. I also think Neil has switched off and is contemplating a dirty weekend up in the North Cape with his Swiss girlfriend who is flying in today. I say this because our Hawkeyed guide misses a Burchell’s Coucal sitting on a roadside fence post which we spot and yell at him to stop and reverse on a busy main road, which he does. We then visit the Tokai Forest again to finally clean up on Forest Buzzard and Forest Canary. There is another fruitless try for Knysna Warbler( did hear it though) and then we are dumped at the Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens and pretty much left to our own devices until a late afternoon ship out to the Airport. One new bird in the gardens, for me, was Speckled Mousebird. Otherwise the total for the day was 42. For the trip I scored 201 of which 139 were first ticks. Not too bad for eight days.

Other animals. Mammals, apart from the Baboons, we had Striped Mouse, a dead Bat Eared Fox, Yellow and Small grey Mongoose, Rock Hyrax, Eland, common Dulker, Steenbok, Bontebok, Springbok, Red Haartebeest, Cape Fur Seal, Southern Right Whale, Dolphin sp, and Grey Squirrel. Reptiles, Angulate Tortoise, Cape Girdled Lizard, Mole Snake (a Python like thing that we thought was dead until Johan kicked it), Southern Rock Agame, Marsh Terrapin and Rock Iguana.

Sorry if there is too much boring bird stuff in this final missive, but apart from the Crones, whom I avoided pretty successfully, there is little else to write home about. All in all a bloody good time.

And that’s a wrap (wind real and process, not many people know that).

Caligula
 
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