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A national mega, plus fjords and mountains (1 Viewer)

Edward

Umimmak
Iceland
For a few months a couple of us have had the idea of visiting far eastern Iceland, an area with virtually no birding coverage, to look for Black-throated and White-billed Divers. These birds have not yet been recorded in Iceland, yet many birders here, myself included, simply cannot believe that they do not occur here. So on Thursday I set off with two friends, Simmi and Yann, to see what we could find. We didn't expect to simply go and find two national firsts just like that and the appeal of the trip was to visit a completely underwatched area, and also to see some spring arrivals. We saw plenty of divers, but only Red-throated and Great Northern, the other two remain undetected.

To cut to the chase (or to avoid having to read any more of this) a series of photos of the trip can be viewed here, covering birds, people and the wild landscapes of that area
http://www.hi.is/~yannk/austurferd04.html
You'll even find a picture of me there watching the Steller's Eider! Hint, I'm wearing headgear which shows my footballing allegiance. The fourth picture down is the hardest spot the bird picture you'll ever see. You'll never get it!

The undoubted highlight of the trip was on Friday night when, as we were approaching the small village of Fáskrúðsfjörður (try saying that fast) 400 miles from Reykjavík, we remembered that a local man had reported an odd bird the day before whilst out walking his dog. The description was vague but we phoned him and to our delight he told us he had just seen it again minutes earlier at the same site. His description was of a very large brown bird which stretched its bill into the air as it was approached. That sounded like a ... but surely it couldn't be, not in Iceland. When we got there the bird was located immediately and incredibly it was a Bittern, an extreme rarity here, the third record and the first since 1948! In the total absence of reedbeds it chose a hillside (!) with tussocks of grass and knee-high birch shrub. It was so well camouflaged that the next day when we revisited the site, five pairs of eyes scoured the hillside for it from the car to no avail. Yann then took a photo of the "habitat" but when we got out of the car we flushed the bird only 10 metres away from us on a bare hillside. Sure enough when we looked at the photo we could see the bird but it completely disappeared into the background when we were searching with our bare eyes and bins.

Elated by this find we continued and saw some good birds, a Gyr Falcon with a Redwing in its talons, a Common Eider x King Eider hybrid, an delightful Steller's Eider drake, a Long-eared Owl and plenty of incoming migrants, including a spectacular mass arrival of Redwing. The trip list for the three days goes like this.

Red-throated Diver - locally common on breeding lakes. Displaying birds were very noisy indeed.
Great Northern Diver - 60-70 in total, all at sea. Not back on lakes yet.
Slavonian Grebe - first bird of year back in breeding plumage
Fulmar - abundant
Gannet - several along coast
Cormorant - common
Bittern - absolute mega!!
Grey Heron - five together
Whooper Swan - common, one fjord held 3,000 birds!
Pink-footed Goose - five
White-fronted Goose - first birds of year
Greylag Goose - common
Barnacle Goose - first birds of year
Shelduck - several of Iceland's latest colonist
Wigeon
Teal
Mallard - common
Pintail - several
Tufted Duck
Scaup
Eider - abundant, one raft at Neskaupstaður was estimated to hold 10,000 birds
Eider x King Eider hybrid - one Eskifjörður
Steller's Eider - the ever popular drake is still at Iceland's remotest village
Harlequin Duck - common. One group of 79 birds was largest I've seen
Long-tailed Duck - common
Common Scoter - 3 seen were first birds of the year
Barrow's Goldeneye - one drake was well out of range
Red-breasted Merganser - locally common
Goosander - single duck
Merlin - two
Gyr Falcon - one seen with Redwing in talons
Oystercatcher - many have arrived inthe last week or two
Golden Plover - very elusive, few birds seen briefly. Will be knee-deep in them in a week's time.
Purple Sandpiper
Snipe - two seen were first arrivals
Redshank
Turnstone
Great Skua - very common and conspicuous on restricted breeding grounds
Black-headed Gull
Herring Gull
Lesser Black-backed Gull
Great Black-backed Gull
Iceland Gull
Glaucous Gull
Kittiwake
Guillemot
Razorbill
Black Guillemot
Rock Dove/Feral Pigeon
Long-eared Owl - very good bird in Iceland
Meadow Pipit - three seen were first arrivals of spring
Wren
Robin - vagrant and not a bird I get annually
Redwing - abundant. Huge arrivals during the week, thousands and thousands!
Chiffchaff - vagrant. I usually have to wait until September for this.
Goldcrest - bird heard clearly in bare scree slope!!! Definite Goldcrest but not seen.
Raven - very common
Starling
Redpoll -2, one of which was very pale indeed
Snow Bunting - surprisingly thin on the ground. Most have headed inland to breed I presume.

E
 
Wow! I surely would like to share a birding day like that. Many of those would be megas or firsts here in Majorca and lifers for me, but maybe you think the same about the stuff we have here....
Eduardo (same name!)
 
Fascinating area, good birding, eh? Except for the divers. Maybe you've already had your 15 minutes of fame, Edward.

Is it sitting on the rightmost fencepost? What is it? A Meadow Pipit? Wish I could read Icelandic. Then I could read that website and the Eddas...
 
just great, Edward! I would have liked that trip very much! I ´d even send you a goshawk in exchange (one perched on a roof in the street in Bonn where my girlfriend lives...she was havin breakfast, saw the raptor land on the neighbours roof, grabbed the bins and watched a very nervous goshawk for severeal minutes!)

But a Stellers Eider- that´s a bird I am longing to see! and a Gyr falcon! And a harlequin duck! and... and ... and...

the bird on the pic 4; is it the bittern? the little light spot in the very left dark patch of vegetation on the hillside?

Jörn
 
Talking in terms of BirdLife, the area can be urgently declared as an IBA (Important Bird Area)!
Excellent day, I would have seen at least 6 lifers!
Regards, Jozsef
 
Six lifers for me, too. You make Iceland sound like a hot spot! Suddenly realising why is Darrenom planning Iceland trip... Any positions open in "Birds of Iceland" for a colourblind illustrator (who is quite good in pretending to see the colours)? ;)
 
Motmot said:
Wow! I surely would like to share a birding day like that. Many of those would be megas or firsts here in Majorca and lifers for me, but maybe you think the same about the stuff we have here....
Eduardo (same name!)

Hola Eduardo
Yes, that's right many of the birds you have in Spain are lifers for me although I saw 59 lifers in mainland España last April! If I went to Costa Rica then I'd see hundreds of lifers, literally!

Hi Charles,
you know the Eddas are available in good English translations these days... Meadow Pipit was wrong by the way. But find the divers we will!

Jörn, schick mir mal 'nen Habicht! The bird in the picture is indeed a Bittern. However, not where you placed it. This is the photo we took without realising the bird was under our noses. We only found it on the photo because we saw where it flew up from. So take the fourth picture, go to the far right-hand fence post, move down slightly where there is small dark patch, slightly to the right of this is a rounded tuft of grass and above that is a tiny light mark pointing 45° into the air. That is the Bittern's head. Pretty obscure!

Joszef, I'm sure you could show me 6 lifers in five minutes on a good day in Romania!

Karri
We have tons of Finnish birders coming here every summer, mostly coming to see Virta-alli. What are you waiting for?

Most of the birds above are easy to see in Iceland, with the exception of Bittern, Long-eared Owl, Chiffchaff and Robin (I think European birders could live without seeing these last two!). Steller's Eider is also a rare bird but this one drake has been with Harlequins in the same area for six years so a lot of visiting birders make the trek out there. Any new Steller's would be an excellent find.

E
 
MoinMoin Edward, werde mein Bestes tun...

Yep Michael;
similar toughts were going through my head...any mice or voles available there, Edward? Or are there any fishes in that little creek? And if yes, which species?
 
Michael Frankis said:
Hi Edward,

Any idea if there is anything there for the Bittern to feed on?

Michael

That's what we were wondering too. There was a good sized river nearby with plenty of Arctic Char but there was absolutely no cover on the banks and so perhaps a Bittern would never have hunted there. But this bird was mostly in the grass as shown on the picture. There are probably mice there, worms too, but there are no amphibians in Iceland so it wasn't eating frogs! Aren't many insects around at the moment either. The weather cleared up on Sunday, the clouds lifted off the mountains and the bird hasn't been seen since. I hope it has moved on to a lake with more cover.

E
 
Karwin said:
I am waiting to get rich. That position at BOI would help ;)

If you fly Icelandair on some other trips, like we did, an Iceland stopover did not cost but the price of the hotel. We stayed 2 days.
 
Excellent report & pictures Edward.
The Bittern is amazing, hopefully if its hungry it can grab a few of those Redwings......!
Let us know when you find those divers.
Stevie
 
Edward said:
The weather cleared up on Sunday, the clouds lifted off the mountains and the bird hasn't been seen since. I hope it has moved on to a lake with more cover.

E

Thanks for the replies everyone.
Despite planning to spend a quiet Easter in Reykjavík, I somehow contrived to find myself in Fáskrúðsfjörður again on Thursday with Yann and two of Iceland's other keenest birders, who for various reasons had not managed to see the Bittern last weekend. As the Bittern had not been seen since Sunday by the local villagers who originally found it (despite some searching) we were certain the bird had gone. As we drove past the village we decided to show the two Bittern-less birders the famed Bittern site, mainly just to rub salt into their wounds. Amazingly when we got there there were very fresh tracks in the stream at the same site and we looked around us thinking where the bird could be. We stood for two minutes examining the tracks and then the bird suddenly flew up five metres away from us. There is virtually no cover on the banks of the stream and we had still not noticed it. Its camouflage is so superb that one of us realised that he had walked past the bird two metres away without seeing it (and he's a very observant birder!!).

But what we were doing in these parts again, news of two more Icelandic megas and a 1,200 mile drive in two days is material for another thread.....

E
 
Michael Frankis said:
Hi Darren,

Edward said the Bittern was in "knee-high birch shrub", so the answer is yes (bjork = birch)

Michael
Hi Michael/ Edward inter alia,

Isn't Birch wood used in saunas for some reason that escapes me at this precise moment? Or did I just fantasise about that?

Seriously though, Iceland sounds fantastic in many ways. Ever more so with Edward's continuing reports. Can't wait for my visit, and I'll be sure to post a report here, (minus details of my triste with Bjork- I wish.)

Regards,
 
Darrenom said:
Isn't Birch wood used in saunas for some reason that escapes me at this precise moment? Or did I just fantasise about that?
I know You fantasise a lot over saunas, but the truth is, that due to burning birch in there the place is hot as hell, and then we beat each others with vihtas made of birch. I'll again have sauna with two blondes tomorrow...
 
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