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Straight or Angled? (1 Viewer)

Humakt, pos1 and 3,
My experience with angled scopes is that they work perfectly well from a tripod. However, from a monopod or from a car window a straight one was much more comfortable in my hands as an angled one. When you are a digiscoper a straight one is much easier to aim than an angled one.
I had a long conversation last year with a professional wildlife photographer, who bought (advice from the shop) an angled scope and he regretted it every day when he wanted to use his scope for photographic purposes.
So angled or straight is very much dependent on the most favored application of your scope in my opinion.
Gijs van Ginkel
 
Hi,

The Cullmann stock did have an adjustable shoulder plate iirc, but nothing for up and down. Both are needed to get a proper fit imho.

Here's a screenshot of my first draft. I've used an offset hinge to allow lowering the base beneath the horizontal, which the commercially available stocks I've seen online don't seem to do.

There's no length adjustment (yet) since my plan is to use a piece of 25 mm diameter PVC tube for the part shown in yellow to keep costs down.

For now, length adjustment would be by exchanging the PVC tube in the middle. (Though maybe 20 mm adjustment range would be available by inserting the tube only partially at both ends. That might cover the difference between the ED50 and the ED50A, I imagine.)

I wonder if the shoulder stock should be angled laterally to bring the eye piece closer to the eye, without having to tilt the head laterally ... what do you think?

Regards,

Henning
 

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  • Shoulder Stock.jpg
    Shoulder Stock.jpg
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Hi,



Here's a screenshot of my first draft. I've used an offset hinge to allow lowering the base beneath the horizontal, which the commercially available stocks I've seen online don't seem to do.

There's no length adjustment (yet) since my plan is to use a piece of 25 mm diameter PVC tube for the part shown in yellow to keep costs down.

For now, length adjustment would be by exchanging the PVC tube in the middle. (Though maybe 20 mm adjustment range would be available by inserting the tube only partially at both ends. That might cover the difference between the ED50 and the ED50A, I imagine.)

I wonder if the shoulder stock should be angled laterally to bring the eye piece closer to the eye, without having to tilt the head laterally ... what do you think?

Regards,

Henning

It is a good first step, but it needs to be very flexible to tune the fitting.
Perhaps two lengths of angle iron such as were used in the old erector sets would work, one for the horizontal, another for the vertical, with the shoulder plate on horizontal end and the offset hinge fitting on the vertical end.
I'd like to draw a picture but don't have your graphic skills. :(
 
Hi Etudiant,

Perhaps two lengths of angle iron such as were used in the old erector sets would work, one for the horizontal, another for the vertical, with the shoulder plate on horizontal end and the offset hinge fitting on the vertical end.


This inspired me to check my old erector sets ... turns out I'm missing the basic set with the simple angle irons, I only have the fancy gears and stuff. Guess I'll have to check ebay to re-stock! :)

After thinking about it, the azimuth position of the scope on the base plate is not fixed, so maybe lateral adjustment is already covered?

I've added a symbolic scope to the illustration to show the effect, it's only vaguely similar to the Nikon ED50A but I hope it serves its purpose :)

Regards,

Henning
 

Attachments

  • Shoulder Stock 2.jpg
    Shoulder Stock 2.jpg
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Hi Etudiant,




This inspired me to check my old erector sets ... turns out I'm missing the basic set with the simple angle irons, I only have the fancy gears and stuff. Guess I'll have to check ebay to re-stock! :)

After thinking about it, the azimuth position of the scope on the base plate is not fixed, so maybe lateral adjustment is already covered?

I've added a symbolic scope to the illustration to show the effect, it's only vaguely similar to the Nikon ED50A but I hope it serves its purpose :)

Regards,

Henning

Looks promising.
Would love to hear how the finished product performs.
 
Hi Etudiant,

Looks promising.
Would love to hear how the finished product performs.

Thanks for helping me with the design! :) I have just ordered a 3D print (no printer of my own, yet), and hopefully will be able to report on the result soon.

Regards,

Henning
 
Hi Etudiant,



Thanks for helping me with the design! :) I have just ordered a 3D print (no printer of my own, yet), and hopefully will be able to report on the result soon.

Regards,

Henning

Wow, a 3D print! That is well beyond my competence.

Wonderful that such a service is readily available. I'd thought that you had to be working with a hacksaw and some glue, on a do it yourself basis.
 
I asked the same question a few years ago. I have both. Straight is good for following birds in flight and if you place your scope on top of a car top or car window. 45* angle is great to share the scope view with people of varying height.
 
Hi Etudiant,

I'd thought that you had to be working with a hacksaw and some glue, on a do it yourself basis.

That can give good results too, but I'm better with a soldering iron than with a hacksaw :)

The advantage of 3D printing is that you get results that can be reproduced accurately, the disadvantage (at the moment) is that it's often a bit pricey, compared to industrially produced parts like the Stedistock.

Regards,

Henning
 
Straight for visual on mammals or anything on your " horizon line" or below. Much better if its on a balcony where you can sit so the tripod can be setted lower for stability and hide for wind etc. I got a mountain at 2 yards in my contry house and straight binoculars for watch it, an angled there make no sense for me

For birding and digiscoping angled is a must, aside the low center of gravity angled allows better holding for the camera.
 
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