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Experiment with Nikon M7 8x30 (1 Viewer)

paddy7

Well-known member
Firstly, i've put this in the general bins category as the issues may apply to other small EP optics where users might have experienced problems.
As context, various posters have in the past discussed the Nikon M7 8x30. Initially, there were reports of unpainted rings in early models, while others experienced various glare issues, particularly in slanting, low light (often veiling glare, but - as in my own case- occasional small 'crescents' in the lower quadrant).
I've had mine two years now, and feel that (after using them in many light conditions and trying to induce as many problems as possible) the main issue is that eye position needs to be very, very precise.
This is not a problem if these are your only bins, as you soon develop 'eye memory;' however, my main tool is a Zeiss FL 8x32, and swapping back to the M7 often requires a period of assimilation.

A colleague of mine (and a birder of some repute) never seems to employ the eyecups on either his binoculars or scope, despite never wearing glasses for birding or otherwise, but hovers his eyes off the eyepiece in what i began to think of as 'virtual eye relief.'
While having experimented with other positions on the M7 eyecups, i'd never tried this, so - while out on a local survey last weekend - thought i'd see what it was like.

A revelation was what it was like! Obviously, it took a little experimentation, and at first i developed a technique of ensuring the thumb knuckles (under the barrels) were just touching either side of my nose. This kept a degree of consistency, and ensured the bins remained in line with my eyes (never appreciating before the role of the eye cup in locking the two together).
The view was wide, bright and effortless (after a while) and i even found i could wander around the view, in a way i couldn't with eyecups extended; when the bins were brought up fast, i'd forget, and bang the eyepiece into my face, but even that stopped after a while. I experienced no glares, reflections or vignetting at all, and i don't think it's overstating it to say it was like having new bins.

I haven't tried this with my other sets, principally because they have never been the subject of such a discussion, but i thought i'd put this out there for any of the other M7 users who may still be struggling with getting the right eye position consistently. I was using them on a very bright, sunny morning, and used them with the sun in front, behind and to the side of me.

I should point out that i don't wear glasses, and do not have particularly deep-set eyes. These may or may not be important factors, but all i can say is that it worked for me, and i'm now running the eyecups flat on the M7 and have got used to not wandering off the exit pupil when panning, which was the initial issue with this technique.
My friend's bins are 10x42 Swaros, so he's not doing it for the same reason - he just likes it, and is obviously very used to it, as he does exactly the same on his Habicht 80mm scope.
Paddy
 
Interesting.

Perhaps the fully extended eyecups are still too short for you and this makes eye positioning difficult...?

On scopes I also find the eyecups flat most comfortable... On bins I use them somewhere half down, as I have deep eye sockets...
 
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Hi Paddy,

I have seen a racehorse trainer using this method, he had the long barrel Zeiss Dialyt, he balanced them on the tips of his fingers and had his eyes just off the cups, as you describe. I have tried it on and off, the view is ok, and balancing the binocular like that keeps it quite steady, but only for very short periods, I find it difficult to maintain that position for very long, difficult to describe, but I found I had to concentrate too much on keeping position, it made viewing less relaxed.
 
I can't imagine it's insufficient eye relief, as i believe the Nikon and the Zeiss FL8x32 are roughly 15mm - whether the extra 2mm of objective on the Zeiss makes a difference i don't know.
I could however imagine that a larger set may present other problems, which are not found with the diminutive M7. I actually found the view very relaxing!
 
I believe that your friends 10x42 Swarovision has 20mm eye relief which is very long. It is curious that he choses to use it with the eye cups closed. Any binocular that has ER of 16mm or more is no problem for me to use.

I carry my Nikon 8x30 M7 around as my current car binocular. Its eye relief is 15.1mm and it can cause me problems if I don't place it against my brow ridge precisely.

I use it with the eye cups fully opened and brace it up against and just under my eyebrows on my brow ridges. It keeps the binocular steady. The right place to brace it is now instinctive but it took some experimentation at first to get it right. If I miss it and brace it too far back I get some blackouts.

Bob
 
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I carry my Nikon 8x30 M7 around as my current car binocular. Its eye relief is 15.1mm and it can cause me problems if I don't place it against my brow ridge precisely.

I use it with the eye cups fully opened and brace it up against and just under my eyebrows on my brow ridges. It keeps the binocular steady. The right place to brace it is now instinctive but it took some experimentation at first to get it right. If I miss it and brace it too far back I get some blackouts.

Bob


I've had the exact same problem with several different 8x32's, including the Viper HD, Conquest HD, Terra, and the Euro HD. Loved the ergos and view of the Euro HD so much I had to slightly modify the ER by removing the eyecups and putting an o-ring underneath, then screwing the eyepiece back on.

Is this just an 8x32 thing?
 
I've had the exact same problem with several different 8x32's, including the Viper HD, Conquest HD, Terra, and the Euro HD. Loved the ergos and view of the Euro HD so much I had to slightly modify the ER by removing the eyecups and putting an o-ring underneath, then screwing the eyepiece back on.

Is this just an 8x32 thing?


It might be just an 8x32 thing.

I have never had any ER problems with 42mm binoculars but almost all of them have 16mm ER or longer.

I have also run into ER problems with my 8x30 SLC but that is not a typical 8x30/32 with its focusing objectives.

It might be a result of trying to keep 32mm binoculars compact and their FOV wide???

Big 8x32s like my Nikon LX L do not give me the problems I described and my 8x32 Kahles with 16mm ER doesn't bother me. My 10x32 EDG has ER of 17.3 mm. Size wise it is big for a 32mm binocular and I have no ER problems with it.

One thing that kept me from getting a Leica 8x32 Trinovid BN was its short ER.

Bob
 
I have experienced the exact same thing recently with my 8x30 Fujinon FMTR-SX, a military style porro with soft eyecups that flip up and down, and are also easily removed. To me it happened with the eyecups off, necessitating some finger-eyebrow English to hold the eyepieces the correct distance from the eyes, but the view was surprisingly open, spacious feeling, and clear.

I had previously tried to remedy the too-long eyecups as they were delivered by removing some material, which helped but perhaps I didn't remove enough after all. I am going to remove some more, in hopes of getting the same view but with the side-glare blocking and eye centering advantages of eyecups. Time will tell if there's something mysterious going on that only a binocular "floating in space" will provide.

Ron
 
I'm not sure it's as simple as just being an ER thing, as i mentioned above (the FL8x32) which i believe is also 15mm ER. It may be some relationship of ER to eyecup design, but this technique of running the cups flat avoided most of the issues that seem to have dogged M7 users in the last couple of years.
One of my local optics outlets still reports them as one of their biggest sellers and i really like them. This was part of a series of exercises to see how the very best could be got out of what i feel is an excellent set of bins for the size/price.
Paddy
 
I'm not sure it's as simple as just being an ER thing, as i mentioned above (the FL8x32) which i believe is also 15mm ER. It may be some relationship of ER to eyecup design, but this technique of running the cups flat avoided most of the issues that seem to have dogged M7 users in the last couple of years.
One of my local optics outlets still reports them as one of their biggest sellers and i really like them. This was part of a series of exercises to see how the very best could be got out of what i feel is an excellent set of bins for the size/price.
Paddy

That is strange. I was out with my 10x M7 the other day and it is effortless to use regarding eyepositioning. Nothing straining whatsoever. Hadn't used it in a while (I'm rotating so many bins) so I found I liked the eyecups one click from fully out and I was using almost the full ipd.

Very strange that the 8x with larger exit pupil should seem difficult regarding eye placement but then as some-one said maybe it can be an 8x thing as I do tend to use my Kowa SV 8x32 with the eyecups fully down most times but even then I can still rest my brows against the eyecup top edge. I do find though that eyecups up do give more contrast by cutting out side light hence why I prefer that with my M7 as it's not especially contrasty but then depends on the light also. It still impresses me enormously though.

I think I used to use my Zeiss FL 8x32 at the first click stop but I remember it was not totally easy with eye positioning for me, not as easy as the Kowa SV I have now. I think my Zeiss used to have oval shaped exit pupils which might have been the reason.

Sort of aside I do remember the Zeiss having a wonderful contrast but with a small halo edge at times and the amazing thing about the Kowa is that it totally lacks any edge artefacts but maybe because it's a bit less contrasty but still amazing that it even sort of reminds me of the Zeiss though I do prefer the less weight and more compactness of the M7 over the Kowa.

My Pentax 8x20 ED is difficult to eye position especially when outdoors and sun may be making things difficult with side light and glare, Whereas my Pentax Papilio II 6.5x isn't bothered by sun. No glare, the objectives are very recessed especially since they have long travel required for the close focusing but the eyepieces don't seem to be bothered by sidelight very much either. I can use the Pentax easily with the eyecups in any position so the eyerelief seems to be very flexible whereas with the 8x20 ED not so at all so I wonder is it something to do with a difference between the eyepieces on the 8x and 10x M7? The bins should be identical otherwise.
 
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Perhaps the smaller the binoculars, the more face-shape and general user physiology comes into play, particularly if there are small nuances in the way manufacturers design their eye cups.
I'd have to say i've never had much trouble with the M7 anyway, but - having examined mine for the perhaps-mythical unpainted rings and found nothing - i was curious about the range of issues others seemed to have (to the point that the great Dennis called them 'glare monsters').
I tried winged eye-cups, various eye positions to try to encourage these problems; the only thing i experienced was small 'moons' of glare at the bottom of the view.
This flat-cup experiment may only work for me with my particular facial arrangement, but it might be worth trying for any of those who have had problems in the past.
As usual, there are so many factors involved, even in a small issue like this, that each individual user may find different results.
 
This is not a problem if these are your only bins, as you soon develop 'eye memory;' however, my main tool is a Zeiss FL 8x32, and swapping back to the M7 often requires a period of assimilation.

Paddy

Guess you'll have to use the M7 more and then you'll have the problem with the Zeiss instead.

Hope that helps8-P

Ok joking aside my M7 just seemed easy and as I say I hadn't used it in a while so obviously had no eye memory with it. Did get small bottom crescents but in strong sunny conditions and in fact they handled glare much better than probably all my more compacts. My Kowa and Sapphire and Vistron can all have small bottom crescents in difficult bright light also. I remember my Leica 10x32 was not the easiest with eye positioning so I rate the M7 better in that regard and it is a good aspect to have with a bin.
Very very precise eye positioning is bad. Would definitely put me off buying one or I would return it if that was the case and it was the same with all of the 8x M7. No point when I have other bins including a 10x M7 that don't give me this problem.

Maybe drop Nikon a line and get them checked out or find some-one else experienced to try them and see if they find the same issue. It should be pretty immediately obvious.

Avoid going under the surgeons knife and face fillers etc. Sorry, couldn't help it.
 
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Firstly, i've put this in the general bins category as the issues may apply to other small EP optics where users might have experienced problems.
As context, various posters have in the past discussed the Nikon M7 8x30. Initially, there were reports of unpainted rings in early models, while others experienced various glare issues, particularly in slanting, low light (often veiling glare, but - as in my own case- occasional small 'crescents' in the lower quadrant).
I've had mine two years now, and feel that (after using them in many light conditions and trying to induce as many problems as possible) the main issue is that eye position needs to be very, very precise.
This is not a problem if these are your only bins, as you soon develop 'eye memory;' however, my main tool is a Zeiss FL 8x32, and swapping back to the M7 often requires a period of assimilation.

A colleague of mine (and a birder of some repute) never seems to employ the eyecups on either his binoculars or scope, despite never wearing glasses for birding or otherwise, but hovers his eyes off the eyepiece in what i began to think of as 'virtual eye relief.'
While having experimented with other positions on the M7 eyecups, i'd never tried this, so - while out on a local survey last weekend - thought i'd see what it was like.

A revelation was what it was like! Obviously, it took a little experimentation, and at first i developed a technique of ensuring the thumb knuckles (under the barrels) were just touching either side of my nose. This kept a degree of consistency, and ensured the bins remained in line with my eyes (never appreciating before the role of the eye cup in locking the two together).
The view was wide, bright and effortless (after a while) and i even found i could wander around the view, in a way i couldn't with eyecups extended; when the bins were brought up fast, i'd forget, and bang the eyepiece into my face, but even that stopped after a while. I experienced no glares, reflections or vignetting at all, and i don't think it's overstating it to say it was like having new bins.

I haven't tried this with my other sets, principally because they have never been the subject of such a discussion, but i thought i'd put this out there for any of the other M7 users who may still be struggling with getting the right eye position consistently. I was using them on a very bright, sunny morning, and used them with the sun in front, behind and to the side of me.

I should point out that i don't wear glasses, and do not have particularly deep-set eyes. These may or may not be important factors, but all i can say is that it worked for me, and i'm now running the eyecups flat on the M7 and have got used to not wandering off the exit pupil when panning, which was the initial issue with this technique.
My friend's bins are 10x42 Swaros, so he's not doing it for the same reason - he just likes it, and is obviously very used to it, as he does exactly the same on his Habicht 80mm scope.
Paddy
Get ya a pair of Swarovski 8x32 SV's and you don't have to do all that standing on your head and adjusting your thumb knuckles. Just put them up to your eyes and look at the bird.
 
Hi Paddy,

I have seen a racehorse trainer using this method, he had the long barrel Zeiss Dialyt, he balanced them on the tips of his fingers and had his eyes just off the cups, as you describe. I have tried it on and off, the view is ok, and balancing the binocular like that keeps it quite steady, but only for very short periods, I find it difficult to maintain that position for very long, difficult to describe, but I found I had to concentrate too much on keeping position, it made viewing less relaxed.

The observation of a steadier image with a „floating support“ instead of a firm grip and eyecups resting against the head (or glasses) is in full accordance with the priciples of passive internal stabilisation by inertia.
With a floating support below and close to the center of gravity of the binocular, rather translatory than angular movements get transferred from the observer. Only two axes (out of completely 6 degrees of freedom of movement existing all together) get usually reduced by internal stabilisation devices. All other being irrelevant.
 
If you've got FL 8x32 you don't need SV 8x32! I also suspect you can't get an SV for £250!
No I understand the difficult eye placement with the Nikon 8x30 M7. I tried one and that was a big detraction for me. It really is weird how much better an 8x32 is for easy eye placement but the 8x32 SV is probably the easiest 8x32 made for eye placement.
 
No I understand the difficult eye placement with the Nikon 8x30 M7. I tried one and that was a big detraction for me. It really is weird how much better an 8x32 is for easy eye placement but the 8x32 SV is probably the easiest 8x32 made for eye placement.

That is because the SVs all have extremely long eye relief of 20mm. (Except for the 10x50, I think, which has 19mm.)

There are some good 8x32s, like Leica, which have less than the 15.1mm ER that the Nikon 8x30 has.

Bob
 
That is because the SVs all have extremely long eye relief of 20mm. (Except for the 10x50, I think, which has 19mm.)

There are some good 8x32s, like Leica, which have less than the 15.1mm ER that the Nikon 8x30 has.

Bob
Also, the SV's especially the 8x32's as a design parameter don't use a lot of internal baffling because it truncates the exit pupil and makes for more difficult eye placement. The SV's have a little more glare because of the lack of baffling but they have some of the easiest eye placement of any binoculars especially the 8x32's.
 
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