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Southern African Forum (2 Viewers)

At Skukuza there were plenty of what were now becoming common birds including Black-headed Bulbuls with a Cattle Egret perched on the head of a Cape Buffalo who was in the river! In the shallows was a lurking Straiated Heron.

After Breakfast we strolled around the grounds and saw Brown -headed Parrot, Red-crested Cuckoo,Purple-banded and Violet-backed Sunbirds, African Paradise Flycatcher that were new and some other birds including fly-over African Hawk Eagle and a couple of Wahlbergs Eagles!

Great story, Dryocopus, thoroughly enjoying it. You really have been lucky with your cats. Cheetah are not seen very often.

A couple of points.........

I think your Striated Heron is called a Green-backed Heron here. And I am puzzled by your Violet-backed Sunbird. That is a Zimbabwean bird, and would not normally be found in South Africa. Did you perhaps mean Violet-backed Starling?

Where will you take us next?
Best wishes,
Dave Kennedy
 
Great story, Dryocopus, thoroughly enjoying it. You really have been lucky with your cats. Cheetah are not seen very often.

A couple of points.........

I think your Striated Heron is called a Green-backed Heron here. And I am puzzled by your Violet-backed Sunbird. That is a Zimbabwean bird, and would not normally be found in South Africa. Did you perhaps mean Violet-backed Starling?

Where will you take us next?
Best wishes,
Dave Kennedy

Thankfully I have an expert to correct my errors!

On the Heron - the Latin is the same- more than happy to correct it to Green-backed Heron - I see from my notes that I see Green-backed Heron(s)
at another place! So only counted once!

I think I was rushing the report so made the other error more typo than anything -it was indeed Violet-backed Starling - what a lovely bird too!
 
Day 7 Misty Mountains to Wakkerstroom

Misty Mountain proved correct in the morning!

We went for an early morning walk with umbrellas (in a pot by the front door!) and we gained good views of Karoo Thrush, Chorister Robin-chat well he certainly sang aloud! Cape Robin-chat and a pair of Dusky Flycatchers that appeared to be nest building.There were some sunbirds and a Boubou but the umbrellas were more of a nuisance than a help...need 3 hands!

The drive to Wakkerstroom took us over high ground where thge low cloud made driving difficult and meant little wildlife was seen.Pied Crow,Cape Black Crow and grey heron didn't seem to mind the weather. But one sight we didn't expert were five Spur-winged Geese perched in a tree!
The inevitable (daily) Hadadah Ibis and the noisy Helmeted Guineafowl were also seen.Pied Starlings and Indian Mynas were a plenty at the Service Station were we had a coffee.
The birding got better as we proceeded south, with BS Kites, Long-tailed Widow-birds, with Barn Swallows, Common Fiscals, Steppe Buzzards and a group of African Sacred Ibises feeding in flooded fields.

We had lunch in Ermelo (cant say I remember it - wonder if it was where I had soup that was deadful...not sure think that was elsewhere?)- we stopped on route at some roadworks (this we learnt were very long stops so we had plenty of time to bird watch if there were any) here a Red-throated Wryneck hopped into view!
Southern Bald Ibises, BSKite and a few Cattle Egrets were seen.
Then we stopped at a pond and boy did we have birds!
Hundreds of pair of Cattle Egrets nesting with Spoonbills, Long-tailed Cormorants, and Black-headed Herons. Cape and Village Weavers seemed everywhere and there were ducks Yellow-billed, White-faced and Little Grebes with Whiskered Terns abounding (can a tern abound?) and five species of Swallows and Martins! However the best sighting of all were the three Cape Clawless Otters that visited a fallen log out in the water. They climbed out and clambered over each other until they eventually dived off fishing for food!

We arrived at Wakkerstroom - and the difference between the KNP and here was so striking as was the weather. Jan, Mike and I were in Coot Cottage, which smelt damp and proved to be so - our mistake was to wash some clothes here as I think they ended up wetter than they began!That was the next day I think?
The fact was the cottage had not been opened since the last time people stayed which must have been ages ago.We could have a real fire which we did and glad of it!
The restaurant we went to that eveing was lovely - atmosphere great, full of locals in the bar, the owners a Londoner (in the kitchen) and his wife in the bar - with helpful if very slow waitresses, we learnt to order our meal first then the drinks as this made everything faster!
A lovely meal with some fine wine and then it was back to a dampish bed for me, so I wrapped myself up in more clothes and that was ok!

Shame about the cottage because this was one of my favourite places we stayed! Over 250 km to the sea was not good but the marshland birding was superb!
Mind you Jan, Mike and I had a good laugh about the situation and got on with it! Shared memories like these make for good friends!:t:
 
Meant to mention the Kruger NP camps - from a domestic point of view

From notes I made in my little Green book.

Impressions
KNP N - vvvdry M - very dry S-dry but bits of wet areas.
The lack of Vultures - very few species and even fewer actual numbers.

Camp 1 - 2 nights -
Good for Elephants and a few Lions - good for certain birds.
Meal in Restaurant not good
2nd night BBQ - lovely and ND (not a very knowledgeable driver but ok)

Camp 2 - 2 nights Satara much better all round - Restaurant first night - very good meal.2nd evening BBQ - even better! ND - knowledgeable driver but we had a group of tourists from Mozambique who only wanted to see Lions and behaved like children on a trip , noisy and exciteable.I am afraid that after another animal had been seen off by the noise my Teacher instincts rose to the surface and I told them off,(well told em how they should behave around wild animals and show respect for the Lions and not make so much noise!) this was after having made two gentle requests of their tour guide! It worked and they shut up and we could enjoy the rest of the trip - a young couple of South Africans thanked me as they had felt too uncomfortable to say anything! Those lamps they use get quite hot and your arms ache after a while! (this was the trip where the driver called Cheetah and we all thought Serval!) I wonder if he got a bigger tip from the Mozambiques - he was a delightful young man so probably did!

Pretorious was old and feeling tired - they had a new restaurant but we had a delicious Curry cooked by Jean in their family house. However there was some great birding in the camp and nearby.

Kruger - animals amazing and birding good.

I hope I have captured the magical nature of KNP - I did find it surreal having Rhino's outside the minibus and then having a graceful Giraffe sashaying past the back window!

:t:

I'll try to post some more pics tomorrow or tonight if I have the time!
 
Meant to mention the Kruger NP camps - from a domestic point of view

Camp 1 - 2 nights -
Meal in Restaurant not good

Hi Dryocopus,
great report but the comment above worries me. We are planning to spend 2 nights in Letaba in July, and had heard from another forum that the restaurant was bad.
The problem we have is that my wife is a diabetic, so we have to eat at regular times. If we spend all day in the park, then not only are we really too knackered to cook, but it would also be getting too late for my wife. Hence the plan was to eat at the restaurant.

Does anybody else have any comments on the restaurant at Letaba?

Other than that it does seem a great camp to visit, so looking forward to it.

11 days ;)

Allan
 
Hi Dryocopus,
great report but the comment above worries me. We are planning to spend 2 nights in Letaba in July, and had heard from another forum that the restaurant was bad.
The problem we have is that my wife is a diabetic, so we have to eat at regular times. If we spend all day in the park, then not only are we really too knackered to cook, but it would also be getting too late for my wife. Hence the plan was to eat at the restaurant.

Does anybody else have any comments on the restaurant at Letaba?

Other than that it does seem a great camp to visit, so looking forward to it.

11 days ;)

Allan

Hi, Allan,
Let me try to set your mind at ease.

A little of Kruger's history................

Since its inception, Kruger's mission has been, apart from the protection of wildlife, to provide affordable holidays to generations of South Africans. And you will know, having been to SA before, that the entire nation is hooked on the braaivleis, or barbecue. Every single accommodation unit has a charcoal braai or barbecue provided, and, take it from me, there is nothing nicer than sitting by the fire, with the sizzle and smell of a fine sausage or piece of steak, as the stars shine overhead and the hyenas call from the darkness. Kruger, in other words, was synonymous with self-catering. As such, restaurants were a secondary consideration, to give one a break from braaiing or to cater for the rare thunderstorm which might occur in summer.

Letaba is our favourite camp, and I promise you, at least once every trip, we make a point of going to the restaurant. The best way to describe it is 1950's UK boarding-house. Imagine Fawlty Towers, or a boarding-house on the south English coast run by some formidable spinster, and you will get the idea. The menu will be something like brown Windsor soup, a piece of fish, a choice between sliced roast beef and gravy or roast chicken, and a dessert such as pears and ice cream or sherry trifle. The service may be less swift than you would want, and the coffee might be instant, but the food is simple and perfectly fine. The restaurant also offers a good English breakfast, but not lunch. Each camp has a sort of canteen where you can get hamburger-and-chips-or-sandwiches sort of cooking at lunch time should you wish it.

Note that there are many establishments close to Kruger such as Mala Mala, Ngala, Sabi Sand, etc., which offer the highest standard of cuisine, but the cost of such places is prohibitive.

My wife is also diabetic, and she has pointed out a couple of things worth considering. Bearing in mind that the severity of the condition varies with the individual, and what you actually do is up to you, she makes a point of always having food in the car in case, for any reason, you are unable to eat at the normal time. This might comprise apples, processed cheese such as Kiri or La Vache Qui Rit – I am sure you know the kind of thing – biscuits, biltong or dried sausage, and perhaps some dried fruit. Make sure you have lots of water in the car, in case you get held up anywhere. I assure you, if you get caught up in a lion sighting, for instance, you may find the road blocked by other cars, for not everybody will be as considerate as you. There is also the possibility, however remote, of breakdown.

When you get to the park entrance, purchase the latest map. Besides roads, camps, hides etc. this will show you the various picnic spots. At these picnic spots, for a very modest fee, you can hire a gas cylinder and skottel (originally a plough disc), on which you can cook bacon, sausage, eggs, toast, whatever you like. We often have breakfast at a picnic site, or you could have lunch should you prefer it.

Our suggestion would be to purchase a coolbag and some of those blue freezer blocks, buy some milk, bread or rolls, eggs, bacon, sausages, steak, whatever, and join the Kruger culture. How hard can it be to light some charcoal under your braai, and get those steaks sizzling? You can buy much of what you require in the camp shop, but it will be cheaper if purchased outside the park. Charcoal and/or wood and firelighters are sold in all the camps. Note that in July (winter), with its early sunset, the camp gates will close around 6 pm. From your wife’s point of view this should give you plenty time to grill a couple of steaks or sausages. Your accommodation will have a fridge/deep freeze, so, once there, you will have no problem keeping food. It will also have a two plate stove or, if not, there will be an excellent communal kitchen close by, so you can make tea, coffee, the morning bacon or whatever. Should you have any query about what kitchen equipment is available, contact the Parks Board by phone or Internet, and set your mind at ease.

While at Letaba, take the time to visit the Elephant Museum. It is fascinating, and well worth it.

Best wishes,
Dave Kennedy
 
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When you get to the park entrance, purchase the latest map. Besides roads, camps, hides etc. this will show you the various picnic spots. At these picnic spots, for a very modest fee, you can hire a gas cylinder and skottel (originally a plough disc), on which you can cook bacon, sausage, eggs, toast, whatever you like. We often have breakfast at a picnic site, or you could have lunch should you prefer it.

In case you're unclear about the skottel, here's one in action.

Dave
 

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Allen

The BBQ we enjoyed on the second evening was tops! as was the BBQ on the fourth evening.The facilities for home cooking are great and eveyone seemed to be doing that.I wouldn't worry about the restaurant - Letaba - we were very tired it was our first full day in SA and we all wanted to eat and it took so long to arrive. I didn't think much of the food - others ate it well enough.

Dave's advice as ever is spot on.

11 days to go to what? Back to SA?

and then July in the KNP? how lucky you are to commute!

I now want to bird in Cape Town and the surrounding area and Okavango Delta - oh and the Kalahari! Dont want to go out with a UK birding company they seem to charge the earth but go with a local birding organisation after getting reasonable flights. Which companies does anyone recommend?
(Not necessarily all together!)
 
I now want to bird in Cape Town and the surrounding area and Okavango Delta - oh and the Kalahari! Dont want to go out with a UK birding company they seem to charge the earth but go with a local birding organisation after getting reasonable flights. Which companies does anyone recommend?
(Not necessarily all together!)

Dryocopus,

I am sure you have already done so, but in case you haven't, if you read through this forum's postings since inception you will find a lot of info about birding in other areas, including the Cape and the Okavango Delta.

Since I live here, I do my own birding, and have never used any local birding organisation, so I cannot comment on how good or otherwise they may be. You should contact kittykat23uk, who posted earlier on this forum. She recently used a local organisation for a trip to the Delta, and may be able to give you some advice.

Here are some of the local organisations I have found............

www.birdingafrica.com
www.capetownpelagics.com
www.birdingecotours.com
www.letakasafaris.com
www.africageographictravel.com

I know the Africa Geographic staff are competent and highly knowledgeable, but I have no current information on the others. You might as well, however, set the ball rolling by checking out these websites.

Best wishes,
Dave Kennedy

PS - I have always found the fares with Emirates to be better than most, and their aircraft are superb. The airport taxes associated with Emirates flights seem to be much lower than other carriers.
D
 
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Dryocopus
I have been away, and have just been catching up on the forum news. All in all, Kruger seems to have been great and you saw a lot of lovely birds - to say nothing of the variety of animals! When I was at Satara in June of last year,at the bridge a few km from camp on the road towards Tshokwane was a somewhat emaciated lioness with four very tiny cubs. The cubs were in very good health but she did not seem to be, so I am hoping that the group you saqw included at least some of this family! Makes me feel better about them!

Hazyview is a lovely area and I'm glad you enjoyed Misty Mountain Lodge. I am presuming that there is more to come about Wakkerstroom - a place I still have not visited although people say it is excellent for birding. On my list!

Thanks for all the interesting comments here for me to enjoy when I got back.
 
Note that in July (winter), with its early sunset, the camp gates will close around 6 pm.

Allan, forgot to mention this.....in case you don't know, early morning and night drives in Kruger in winter can be bloody cold. The wind chill factor in a moving open vehicle is very high. Make sure you have jerseys, jackets, long-sleeved shirts etc so you can layer up if it is cold.

Best wishes,
Dave Kennedy
 
Hi Guys,

Me and the Missus are off on a 'small tour group' to Botsawana, presumably doing the same route as most tour groups, Maun, Moremi, Delta Houseboat, Mudumu (caprivi), Serondola (Chobe), Victoria Falls. We are going for last 2 weeks of May. I got a book of brirding in Southern Africa and it seems we are going to miss out of a lot of birds that will migrate out of the area in the preceding month. Being as this is the first birding / safari trip I have made to Africa will I be dissapointed.
(When we made this booking we had been told that fewer people go at that time of year for that reason but that it is a misguided opinion as the rains should have just finished, everywhere is lush and there are lots of chicks being fed or just about to take to the air and young mammals at this time of year.

Can you tell is the likely reality?
 
Hi Guys,

Me and the Missus are off on a 'small tour group' to Botsawana, presumably doing the same route as most tour groups, Maun, Moremi, Delta Houseboat, Mudumu (caprivi), Serondola (Chobe), Victoria Falls. We are going for last 2 weeks of May. I got a book of brirding in Southern Africa and it seems we are going to miss out of a lot of birds that will migrate out of the area in the preceding month. Being as this is the first birding / safari trip I have made to Africa will I be dissapointed.
(When we made this booking we had been told that fewer people go at that time of year for that reason but that it is a misguided opinion as the rains should have just finished, everywhere is lush and there are lots of chicks being fed or just about to take to the air and young mammals at this time of year.

Can you tell is the likely reality?

Steviebabe, Dave is probably the best person to answer your question on this as he has spent a lot of time in Botswana. But two points:

1. This is your first birding trip to Africa and you WILL see plenty of fantastic birds, all of which will be new ticks!
2. Both times that I went to Botswana, it was winter and I saw masses of birds on both occasions.

So although, yes, there will be some birds missing, keep them for next time, booking in a different time slot!

Everything else you will experience, including the animal life will just add to the pleasure. May is a lovely month, it is not so hot then, the veld looks very 'African', the light is great for photography, so I think you should just look forward to a wonderful trip.
 
Dave,
thanks for all the advice. We always take plenty of snacks with us, and lots of drinks. We also carry at least one 5-litre water bottle with us "just in case". We use a coolbox, but this time are going to try to get one that plugs into the car as well.
We were introduced to Skottels by Martin on our very first trip to the Kruger, and now have one most times we go into the Kruger. Our favourite place is at Mlondozi, watching the bush world go to and from the dam.
We also love to braai. As you say there is nothing better than eating sizzling steaks off the braai and then sitting round the fire talking a lot of rubbish and listening to the sounds of the bush. Magical.
It is good to hear your comments about Letaba, and you have put our minds to rest. Catherine only developed diabetes late last year, so we are still being cautious.
On the game drive front yes it can get cold, but then we are hardy Brits - it's a balmy 9 degrees here today. The secret is layers - we learned that on a whale watching trip to Iceland.

Dryocopus,
yes the countdown is to our next trip to SA. We are very lucky as we have a house in Marloth Park on the southern border of the Kruger and visit as often as work and finances permit.

8 days ;)

Allan
 
Hi Guys,

Me and the Missus are off on a 'small tour group' to Botsawana, presumably doing the same route as most tour groups, Maun, Moremi, Delta Houseboat, Mudumu (caprivi), Serondola (Chobe), Victoria Falls. We are going for last 2 weeks of May. I got a book of birding in Southern Africa and it seems we are going to miss out of a lot of birds that will migrate out of the area in the preceding month. Being as this is the first birding / safari trip I have made to Africa will I be dissapointed.

Hi, Stevie,

While it is correct that the migrant birds leave in March/April, there is no reason whatsoever to feel despondent about this. There will still be plenty left, I promise you. Please refer back to page 5 of this forum, Post #105, and you will see a number of reasons why the area you will be visiting is, in fact, much better than almost any other area in Southern Africa, in terms of bird species numbers.

In late May the Angola floods will be pushing southwards through the Delta, which will make exploration by water easier. Do you homework, and use your new book to learn in advance what species will be in the area, their appearance and calls, their habits and habitat, and have that information to hand every minute of your holiday, so that you know a) what should be around and b) how to recognise it.

By late May the dry season will be well under way. As the grasses wither and leaves fall from the trees, the game viewing becomes easier as visibility improves. Animals must go to wherever water remains, which also increases the chance of a good sighting. The huge N Botswana elephant population, for instance, should be moving into their winter quarters around the Chobe River, so you could be in for some exciting times at Serondela.

Should you have time at Kasane, walk downstream along the Chobe River from the Mowana Hotel to the bird hide, which is situated opposite the first rapids. You have a great chance there to see Brown Firefinch, Brown-throated Weaver, Collared Palm Thrush and, sitting on the rocks in the rapids, Rock Pratincoles. I have also seen a fine otter family at the rapids.
The pictures show (1) a Collared Palm Thrush bathing at the Mowana Hotel, (2) the view from the hide, showing the rocks on which the Rock Pratincoles sit and (3) the Chobe River not far from Serondela.

With best wishes for a great trip,
Dave Kennedy
 

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Hi Guys,
Me and the Missus are off on a 'small tour group' to Botsawana, presumably doing the same route as most tour groups, Maun, Moremi, Delta Houseboat, Mudumu (caprivi), Serondola (Chobe), Victoria Falls. We are going for last 2 weeks of May.

Hi Steviebabe
Have a great time - I'm sure you will!

Sal - Wakkerstroom a brilliant birding place and one that was the tops!

Stood out for me as only beaten by Drakensburg as a birding location!

Maybe cos I got to bird on my own here - that was great just me and the birds!:t:

Think I will be dreaming about Botswana - dont think it likely this year unless I can save a bit from the house improvements fund! might have to be Nov/Dec if at all this year.
 
Wednesday 5th November - Wakkerstroom

This is what happens when you have a break from posting - cant remember what day it is! Stil it was Wednesday 5th Novemember and it was overcast all day. But I was not overcast - nope not at all! Damp maybe but not overcast!

Yesterday when we arrived at Wakkerstroom we had a little foray out tothe nearest wetlands and saw African Marsh Harrier, Cliff Swallows, Speckled Pigeons, Plain and Banded Martins, White-throated and Greater striped Swallows and best of all CRANES!

Grey/Southern Crowned Cranes - a small flock of them and I had my camera - but they were distant so a bit of digiscoping!

Wednesday - I will get there! Spotted Thick-knee and Long-tailed Widowbirds were about the first to be sen on a drive around the local area.

At the Wetlands we had Kingfisher, Purple Gallinule, African Rail, African Snipe, Ruff, Common and Wood Sandpipers.

There were lots of displaying widowbirds, Orange-throated Longclaws and African Pipits abounded!

African Stonechats being stonechats - up of the wires and being seen easily!

Distant -Blue Korhaans

Blesboks moved away at our approach and 3 Yellow Mongoose were behaving just like foxes! hen spied Mountain Wheatear, Spike-heeled Lark and Ant-eating Chat and Dideric Cuckoo.



We spotted a Rock Hydrax and then 2 Secretary-birds were in a low lying field.
Just as well they are so tall or we wouldn't have seen them!

Then we came across 9 Grey Crowned Cranes and 19 Blue Cranes - heavenly!
Wing-snapping Cisticola, Red-capped Lark and another Blue Korhaan.

On our way back towards town we saw the only sighting of the trip of meerkats - about a dozen of them who quickly ran off and hid in the long grass nearby - disappearing from our eager eyes! not a single pic available- sigh!

more later!
 
You know,I've never been to Africa and probably never will- its one continent I'd love to visit,so this little forum for the place is great to see! Great pics guys!
 
You know,I've never been to Africa and probably never will- its one continent I'd love to visit,so this little forum for the place is great to see! Great pics guys!

Cyclops hi,
Start saving ;) Africa will be waiting for you, even if it takes 10 years or more. And believe me, it will be worth the wait.

Allan

5 days :flyaway:
 
Cyclops hi,
Start saving ;) Africa will be waiting for you, even if it takes 10 years or more. And believe me, it will be worth the wait.

Allan

5 days :flyaway:

I've totally lost count of the days. My computer had a major frothy and has been in intensive care; but if you haven't yet left Allan, have a truly wonderful time, masses of birds, some new ticks, and lots of great animals. Look forward to hearing all about it when you get back.
 
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