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shutter control cable nikon 995 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Gsdarri
- Start date
IanF
Moderator
I'm not sure they're such a good idea myself.
An awful lot of people have had problems with the Nikon MC EU-1. I dare say a lot of people haven't but it's not something I ever tried because of the problems experienced by others - despite it seeming to be almost ideal for the job. Problems seemed to fall into either the USB connection failing or dropping out the socket or the device itself suddenly failing.
If you're still interested in it then Warehouse Express are one outlet still - selling them - Nikon MC EU-1 at WE - 2/3 way down on the right.
I used to use the EagleEye Generic Shutter release bracket/cable for around £25 but I have now swapped to the Wing Bracket which is more sturdy and more durable - if a little dearer.
An awful lot of people have had problems with the Nikon MC EU-1. I dare say a lot of people haven't but it's not something I ever tried because of the problems experienced by others - despite it seeming to be almost ideal for the job. Problems seemed to fall into either the USB connection failing or dropping out the socket or the device itself suddenly failing.
If you're still interested in it then Warehouse Express are one outlet still - selling them - Nikon MC EU-1 at WE - 2/3 way down on the right.
I used to use the EagleEye Generic Shutter release bracket/cable for around £25 but I have now swapped to the Wing Bracket which is more sturdy and more durable - if a little dearer.
Last edited:
jiminlondon99
Well-known member
You may find this link useful
http://birdforum.net/showthread.php?t=18515
This is my previous advice from last year as I now use an SLR:
The arrow on the black part of the plug faces the rear of the camera and it slides in about 5mm, and yes it does have to be plugged in to work.
1. Plug it in
2. Turn on the camera and weight for the normal lens noise to stop.
3. Press the large button on the remote halfway down and hold for approx 2/3 seconds and the rear screen comes on.
It is a much slower process than I realised but it does work, you will also find that you need to press and hold the button each time the power save turns off the screen. I hope this helps.
PS. In the set up menu I have set auto off for 5 minutes, you may find the next thing you need is another battery or 2?
good luck
jim
Gsdarri said:
http://birdforum.net/showthread.php?t=18515
This is my previous advice from last year as I now use an SLR:
The arrow on the black part of the plug faces the rear of the camera and it slides in about 5mm, and yes it does have to be plugged in to work.
1. Plug it in
2. Turn on the camera and weight for the normal lens noise to stop.
3. Press the large button on the remote halfway down and hold for approx 2/3 seconds and the rear screen comes on.
It is a much slower process than I realised but it does work, you will also find that you need to press and hold the button each time the power save turns off the screen. I hope this helps.
PS. In the set up menu I have set auto off for 5 minutes, you may find the next thing you need is another battery or 2?
good luck
jim
I had a 995 and their electronic shutter release. It proved very unreliable however the cable release worked without problem on another camera when I took it back to Jessops! Nikon found no fault with the camera of course - but that is another long story. Eventually Jessops replaced my camera with a 4500 and I have had no problems since with the cable release. The batteries do need to be fully powered, though - once the battery icon shows in the screen change it.
D
D
Ive decided to go for a mechanical as there is less to go wrong spent hours trawling through the threads and it appears everyone uses a mechanical device
Ive managed to reduce some of the camera shake by making a support bracket between the tripod and camera hopefully with the addition of the shutter release my images will be sharper.
The bracket is made from a roofing tilers set square cost me all of 85 pence
Added holes to allow for fixing to the camera/tripod and few bends in the vice seems to reduce shake considerably.
thanks for all the advice given
cheers
nick
Ive managed to reduce some of the camera shake by making a support bracket between the tripod and camera hopefully with the addition of the shutter release my images will be sharper.
The bracket is made from a roofing tilers set square cost me all of 85 pence
Added holes to allow for fixing to the camera/tripod and few bends in the vice seems to reduce shake considerably.
thanks for all the advice given
cheers
nick
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