• Welcome to BirdForum, the internet's largest birding community with thousands of members from all over the world. The forums are dedicated to wild birds, birding, binoculars and equipment and all that goes with it.

    Please register for an account to take part in the discussions in the forum, post your pictures in the gallery and more.
ZEISS DTI thermal imaging cameras. For more discoveries at night, and during the day.

Advice needed for a camera (1 Viewer)

Hi Nikonmike,

Ah, you might be right.

With practice, one certainly gets better at tracking, but I've noticed that for some people initial acquisition seems to be the big difficulty, and a red dot sight would certainly help with that.

Regards,

Henning

Initial aquisition definitely was a problem when I started using a telescope (angled). Compared to that, using a camera seems relatively easy.

Niels
 
Initial aquisition definitely was a problem when I started using a telescope (angled). Compared to that, using a camera seems relatively easy.

Niels

Exactly my problem with angled scopes which I resolved by fitting a sighting aid to the lens hood. This was basically a vertically-extended version of the fore sight commonly fitted to rifles. Target acquisition was achieved by lining up the top of the 'scope eyepiece with the top of the fore sight.

Whether this would be an effective method with BIF I have no idea but it might be worth a try.
 
Exactly my problem with angled scopes which I resolved by fitting a sighting aid to the lens hood. This was basically a vertically-extended version of the fore sight commonly fitted to rifles. Target acquisition was achieved by lining up the top of the 'scope eyepiece with the top of the fore sight.

Whether this would be an effective method with BIF I have no idea but it might be worth a try.

This is supposed to help

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=ee-1+dot+sight
 
Hi,

Exactly my problem with angled scopes which I resolved by fitting a sighting aid to the lens hood. This was basically a vertically-extended version of the fore sight commonly fitted to rifles. Target acquisition was achieved by lining up the top of the 'scope eyepiece with the top of the fore sight.

Whether this would be an effective method with BIF I have no idea but it might be worth a try.

I imagine mounting a rifle sight to a camera could be a bit difficult, but since I previously experimented with a NATO rail on a hotshoe, I thought maybe something like pictured in the attachment would work.

Perspective drawing:

Sports Sight 1s.jpg

Isometric drawing:

Sports Sight 2s.jpg

It's designed for 3D printing and should be fairly cheap as it's just a single piece with no optics. The crosshairs are of 1 x 1 mm^2 thickness, the view opening is 32 mm x 18 mm. I've made the far "ring" 6 mm in diameter and the near ring 5 mm to help with alignment, but if you have experience with rifle sights ... maybe it would be better to do it the other way round?

(I have just completed the drawing, so I haven't printed the part yet.)

Regards,

Henning
 
Hi,



I imagine mounting a rifle sight to a camera could be a bit difficult, but since I previously experimented with a NATO rail on a hotshoe, I thought maybe something like pictured in the attachment would work.

Perspective drawing:

View attachment 644864

Isometric drawing:

View attachment 644865

It's designed for 3D printing and should be fairly cheap as it's just a single piece with no optics. The crosshairs are of 1 x 1 mm^2 thickness, the view opening is 32 mm x 18 mm. I've made the far "ring" 6 mm in diameter and the near ring 5 mm to help with alignment, but if you have experience with rifle sights ... maybe it would be better to do it the other way round?

(I have just completed the drawing, so I haven't printed the part yet.)

Regards,

Henning

Apologies if my post did not make it sufficiently clear that I did not mount an actual rifle sight to an angled telescope. In fact, nothing more sophisticated than a plastic cable tie cut to length as shown in the accompanying image.

The length at which to cut the cable tie was decided by taking a sight line through the top of the 'scope eyepiece and the tip of the cable tie and trimming the cable tie until the target object was in the centre of the 'scope eyepiece. Again, it must be emphasized that I have not tried this method for photographing BIF but at the cost of a few GB pence for a cable tie, it must be worth considering.
 

Attachments

  • PA310005-001.JPG
    PA310005-001.JPG
    34.8 KB · Views: 37
Hi,

Apologies if my post did not make it sufficiently clear that I did not mount an actual rifle sight to an angled telescope. In fact, nothing more sophisticated than a plastic cable tie cut to length as shown in the accompanying image.

Ah, I see ... "rifle sight" is a pretty good description actually :)

The sight I drafted is similar to the old "sports viewfinders" (if the German term translates) used in the mid-20th century, only that with the short focal lengths then in use, the old ones were often visibly pyramid-shaped, opening out to the far end.

Regards,

Henning
 
Hi Jurek,


I'm not sure the Panasonic DMC FZ1000 has been mentioned yet. It's a bridge camera so the lenses are not interchangable, but it has a 1" sensor and a tele lens of 400 mm equivalent focal length. The autofocus is quick and easily good enough for birds in flight. Not too expensive, either.

Regards,

Henning

TS writes "- It should still be a good camera with telephoto lenses, able to take high quality pictures (not just documents). "

FZ1000 is an interesting suggestion, good value for money considering that the IQ seem to be quite close to a D300s (and 350D) with good IQ up to ISO800. The weak point would be the lens (could be sharper at 400mm) and durability (not weather sealed).

The definition of "high quality pictures" is of course subjective but for publishing pics on the web and print smaller sizes, the FZ1000 would be fine. If the budget is larger, I would probably go for a more conventional DSLR, but the cost could easily triple.

https://www.dxomark.com/Cameras/Com...kon-D300s-versus-Canon-EOS-350D___958_614_183
 
Last edited:
Hi,

Apologies if my post did not make it sufficiently clear that I did not mount an actual rifle sight to an angled telescope.

Coincedentally, this is what my FZ1000 looks like at the moment:

Target Scope.jpg

I actually bought the (cheapo) scope for mounting it on my birding scope, but as it fit my camera, I just put it on to see what it looks like.

When I just picked it up and actually adjusted the sight to match the sightline of the camera, it became apparent that at 400 mm, the margin of error is not very big if you want to keep a bird in the frame.

(The scope has a 4x magnification with a wide eye relief and gives a pretty good view for the purpose. I didn't expect to use it on the camera as depicted, but except for its bulk and weight, it appears to be quite a functional setup, to my suprise.)

Regards,

Henning
 
Just found this which i posted on another forum ref the re focus speed, taken from the manual.

Sets the sensitivity to be applied when adjusting the focus
according to the movement of the subject.
• When the distance to the subject changes drastically:
– [+] side: The camera re-adjusts the focus immediately.
You can bring different subjects into focus one after
another.
– [-] side: The camera waits for a short period of time
before re-adjusting the focus. This allows you to
prevent the focus from being accidentally re-adjusted
when, for example, an object moves across the image.
• This item works only when the Focus Mode is set to [AFF]
or [AFC].
s
MENU > [Custom]

Thanks for the advice, I'll give it a go...I definitely need to put the time in to learn the menus.
 
Warning! This thread is more than 7 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top