canon 15x50 blur (1 Viewer)

oracleman · Aug 9, 2015

I know that canon is stabilization has its flows. One of them is that focus is not steady when is is on. I noted that with 12x32 and 10x30. But... Its so notorious on 15x50...

Im afraid that, maybe, my sample is wrong, as canon is famous for its sample variations... This cloud be solved returning the binos but the eshop where i buy them dont seems to be "return friendly"...

My tests show that if the bino is not rock steady on my hands the blur appears. That means that much of the time the view is not focus, for example:

1. focus
2. press the is button: the view is focus for one sec.
3. the bino is moved a Little by a involuntary movement: lost focus for a sec
4. try to gain steadyness again : the view is focused again for a sec.
5. Return to point 3

What are your impressions? Could be a bad sample?

Thanks a lot bino gurus, and sorry for my "paranoic-IS-ness"

denco@comcast.n · Aug 10, 2015

oracleman said:
I know that canon is stabilization has its flows. One of them is that focus is not steady when is is on. I noted that with 12x32 and 10x30. But... Its so notorious on 15x50...

Im afraid that, maybe, my sample is wrong, as canon is famous for its sample variations... This cloud be solved returning the binos but the eshop where i buy them dont seems to be "return friendly"...

My tests show that if the bino is not rock steady on my hands the blur appears. That means that much of the time the view is not focus, for example:

1. focus
2. press the is button: the view is focus for one sec.
3. the bino is moved a Little by a involuntary movement: lost focus for a sec
4. try to gain steadyness again : the view is focused again for a sec.
5. Return to point 3

What are your impressions? Could be a bad sample?

Thanks a lot bino gurus, and sorry for my "paranoic-IS-ness"

Try changing your SOP(Standard Operating Procedure). Push the IS button FIRST and then focus. I find it eliminates the optical artifacts you are experiencing. I have had many of the Canon's including the 15x50. I use the 10x42 IS-L now for birding.

PeterPS · Aug 10, 2015

I have used both 10x30 and 12x36 and had no problem with the IS---somewhat like the previous poster, typically I focus on the subject, at least roughly, then push the IS button and finally I finely focus--it works really well.

Sancho · Aug 10, 2015

Sermoluz, oracle man?
I had nearly all models of Canon IS over the years. The balance between focussing and IS takes a little getting used to, and I think it's harder in the higher magnification models.
Agur!

oracleman · Aug 10, 2015

Thanks for all your suggestions!

[email protected] said:
Try changing your SOP(Standard Operating Procedure). Push the IS button FIRST and then focus. I find it eliminates the optical artifacts you are experiencing. I have had many of the Canon's including the 15x50. I use the 10x42 IS-L now for birding.

I'll try today and I'll post feedback!

To pesto: I also had no issues on the view with 10x30 and 12x36, but the blurness on the 15x50 is evident. Are them a consecuence of a bad sample or inherit of IS stabilization? Not clear to me.

To Sancho: eskerrik asko!!! I also read (here on BF I think) that stabilization is harder to use on 15x50 and 18x50, maybe I have to practice more...

On the other hand, on (fantastic) kimmo review says:

"It seems that the more the prisms need to 'tilt' in order to adjust the image, the more they introduce what is called wedge distortion, meaning that they begin to asymmetrically break points of light into small spectra. How disturbing the focus wandering is seems to depend on how stationary one is able to hold the binocular, almost vanishing if you manage to hold them steady, and becoming quite pronounced if you do not."

So on 15x50, must I to use the binos rock steady (no movement at all) to get no blur?

I'll try to find a shop here where I can test if the performance is the same tan on my pair, not sure if i will succed as here there are only a few shops where I can find IS binos here.

oracleman · Aug 11, 2015

To Denco: yesterday I tried to 1st press IS button, and 2nd focus. I think this help a little. Anyway the issue persists.

Maybe I only must to learn how to hanlde this binocular, as is the first bino I have over the kg... Dont know if can be a long process...???

The truth is that this binocular gives a clear and detailed view of birds (but not allways to me ...).

thanks in advance.

oracleman · Aug 11, 2015

I sended mail to Canon support here on spain. This is what I get from them:

"we indicate that we have been able to make some tests in our laboratory and any movement affects the stabilizer focus on the binoculars as IS determine that the subject is moving so lose AF ."

I have doubts about AF...autofocus?. I thought that variprism change the lights angle to compensate movement, but it seems that there is a autofocus system too...

Thanks in advance

dipped · Aug 11, 2015

Hi Oracleman

Has anyone suggested storing the binoculars when not in use in a horizontal position?

oracleman · Aug 11, 2015

dipped said:
Hi Oracleman

Has anyone suggested storing the binoculars when not in use in a horizontal position?

Yep, i already read about that on bf. Thanks anyway!:t:

oracleman · Aug 17, 2015

oracleman said:
I sended mail to Canon support here on spain. This is what I get from them:

"we indicate that we have been able to make some tests in our laboratory and any movement affects the stabilizer focus on the binoculars as IS determine that the subject is moving so lose AF ."

I have doubts about AF...autofocus?. I thought that variprism change the lights angle to compensate movement, but it seems that there is a autofocus system too...

Thanks in advance

Do the IS bins refocus automatically after any movement? On this link states that there is no autofocus at all:

http://www.bestbinocularsreviews.com/Canon10x30ISImageStabilized-4.htm

Thanks in advance

Stanbo · Aug 17, 2015

oracleman said:
Do the IS bins refocus automatically after any movement? On this link states that there is no autofocus at all:

http://www.bestbinocularsreviews.com/Canon10x30ISImageStabilized-4.htm

Thanks in advance

I don't think any of the range are auto focus and the focusing and stabilization are not connected.

In order to prove it I have just tested 3 models - 8x25, 10x30 and 10x42L.

I focused on a very sharp object and then shook them while also engaging and disengaging the the stabilization. This was done while holding then at various angles.

In every case they remained focused on the target point when returning to it.

From this test, I would assume that if yours don't do that there is a problem with the stabilization.

Just couple of points - make sure your dioptre setting is correct and once you have carried out the initial focus, don't touch the focuser.

Stan

Binastro · Aug 17, 2015

.The only autofocus binoculars that I know of were made by Minolta, and maybe the Sony digital binoculars also have autofocus?
There may be others, maybe some military ones also?

etudiant · Aug 18, 2015

oracleman said:
Do the IS bins refocus automatically after any movement? On this link states that there is no autofocus at all:

http://www.bestbinocularsreviews.com/Canon10x30ISImageStabilized-4.htm

Thanks in advance

Canon IS binoculars only have image stabilization, but no autofocus.
Autofocus is difficult when trying to observe a bird deep in the vegetation, because the glass does not know what you are looking for.
Photographers rarely shoot objects in cluttered surroundings, so autofocus works well in cameras. Binocular users don't have the luxury of birds staying out is the open, so autofocus adds no value.

oracleman · Aug 18, 2015

Thanks all!!!!, specially to Stan for doing those tests.

I sended a reply to canon support about "autofocus errata". I want to send them the binos to check the stabilization (hope the technicians know more about this binoculars than canon support).
I could be posible that I am a Little paranoid (this is no the first time

) but I prefer that some technician on canon check if is there any issue with IS stabilization.

Thanks again for your support!!! I'll post any interesting info ...

kabsetz · Aug 18, 2015

Before you send them off, try a pair of lithium batteries in them if you haven't already. Sometimes their slightly higher voltage and good current output helps the IS function better.

Kimmo

Stanbo · Aug 18, 2015

kabsetz said:
Before you send them off, try a pair of lithium batteries in them if you haven't already. Sometimes their slightly higher voltage and good current output helps the IS function better.

Kimmo

Well done Kimmo. I always forget that the stabilization is battery powered until it starts to go haywire.

Lithium batteries have always worked well for me, but I decided to buy some Panasonic Eneloop AA rechargeables. Unfortunately, I bought the Pro version for the higher capacity, but although it says AA on them, they are slightly too big to fit the standard slot in my 10x30 and 10x42L. I think that this problem has been mentioned before somewhere.

I will order some lower capacity standard Eneloops and let you know if they fit and of course, if they work.

Stan

oracleman · Aug 20, 2015

Thanks Kimmo & Stan!!!
I just tested with these lithium batteries:

Energizer Ultimate Lithium AA Mignon Batterien MN1500 LR6 AM3

And no improvement at all

but... it seems that batteries compartiment on 15x50 is a Little bigger than on 10x30... Maybe I test with eneloops (which I buy for 10x30 but I found too they were a Little "fat" to be used on 10x30).

BTW, canon support confirmed that the IS "autofocus" was an errata as you all stated on previos posts.

Thanks again you alll

kabsetz · Aug 20, 2015

If the Energizer lithiums did not cure the problem, trying other batteries will not cure it either.

It could be that you have a sample where the IS vari-angle prisms are not properly aligned with the optical paths or the functioning of the IS is somewhat compromised. Another possibility would be that you happen to have exceedingly sharp eyes and unusually shaky hands. That would mean that the IS range of correction would be at its maximum much of the time and your super-sharp eyes would see the resulting artifacts too clearly. I'm half joking here, but only half.

Kimmo

oracleman · Aug 21, 2015

kabsetz said:
If the Energizer lithiums did not cure the problem, trying other batteries will not cure it either.

It could be that you have a sample where the IS vari-angle prisms are not properly aligned with the optical paths or the functioning of the IS is somewhat compromised. Another possibility would be that you happen to have exceedingly sharp eyes and unusually shaky hands. That would mean that the IS range of correction would be at its maximum much of the time and your super-sharp eyes would see the resulting artifacts too clearly. I'm half joking here, but only half.

Kimmo

I cant call my eyes "ultrasharp", buy I suspect that I have a little shaky hands (not too much anyway). Even with a 8x32, when targeting a bird during more than 10sg a little shake is evident (not disturbing, but evident).

Just to test, I used sanyo eneloop charged to 1.4V and (maybe it's only my imagination) I felt that the blur was reduced a little. This is really strange but...

Anyway, I'm going to test the binoculars for a couple of weeks more. Not only for birding, astronomy too (a pity with the moon on these days).

After that, I will decide to keep the 15x50 or send to repair.

Thanks a lot again people!!!!!

Anyway seems that

oracleman · Nov 1, 2015

oracleman said:
I cant call my eyes "ultrasharp", buy I suspect that I have a little shaky hands (not too much anyway). Even with a 8x32, when targeting a bird during more than 10sg a little shake is evident (not disturbing, but evident).

Just to test, I used sanyo eneloop charged to 1.4V and (maybe it's only my imagination) I felt that the blur was reduced a little. This is really strange but...

Anyway, I'm going to test the binoculars for a couple of weeks more. Not only for birding, astronomy too (a pity with the moon on these days).

After that, I will decide to keep the 15x50 or send to repair.

Thanks a lot again people!!!!!

Just added this comment as I found on a cloudynights thread what I felt when looking to this binoculars with IS on:

http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/140913-canon-10x42-is-l-for-astro/?p=2349049

Anyway I find this are good binoculars. Maybe the more I use, more steadier I will see through them...

Regards

canon 15x50 blur (1 Viewer)

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