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Diopter Adjustment (1 Viewer)

When I used to teach the use of binoculars and the setting up individually to each person,25m was the optimum distance for diopter adjustment.Focus as best as you can with both eyes open on a subject at 25m,small lettering on a number plate for example,not the number plate itself but the dealers name and telephone number,and then adjust the diopter until you get the sharpest picture you can , using the right eye onlyThis will often mean going past the optimum and coming back to ensure you have the best and sharpest view.This will require a steady hand or the bin on a tripod or other form of support.Once this is done to perfection that´s it nothing more to do but enjoy the view. ...Eddy
 
25 meters and a number plate? Sounds quite familiar. I've been promoting the following for many years.

Also, and more importantly, do you know Rafael Chamon of Madrid? He's a bino guy--and the only person I've seen on the Internet with a clue about true collimation. He has not answered my email lately, and I'm worried about him.

Cheers,

Bill :hi:

*****

7 "I WANT AN 'AUTO-FOCUS' BINOCULAR; MY BROTHER HAS ONE”

The Fallacy: This represents a great advance in modern optics.

The Fact: There are no non-electronic auto-focus binoculars on the market.

Despite what you have read, been told, or think you have experienced for yourself, there are no non-electronic “auto-focus” binoculars . . . period!

“But how can that be; I saw it myself?”

Focusing a traditional film camera for a distance from 5- to 500 feet, you might turn the lens half a turn. Focusing from 500 feet to 5,000,000,000 miles, however, may require only a 1/16th of a turn. The reason? Depth of field.

To illustrate: hold your hand one foot in front of your face and concentrate until you can see the swirls in your fingertips. Then, while keeping your fingers sharply focused, try to look at a wall or some object one foot farther away. Oops! It can’t be done. We can’t focus on two objects simultaneously—separated, in our line of sight, by only a foot—at close range.

Next, look at trees or buildings a mile or more distant. Notice that although some of those trees or buildings may be separated by more than 200 feet, along your line-of-sight, they’re all in sharp focus. Distance and depth of field make the difference.

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Photo, Illustration, or Comment 2 photos illustrating the last two concepts
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Most handheld binoculars of moderate power, when focused for a distance of 80 yards or so, will provide reasonably good imagery up close (~40 feet) and at infinity. They must, however, be refocused if they’re to provide optimum clarity at either extreme. Yes, so focused, you will be able to see the trees on the horizon and the license plate on the car across the street—possibly making you believe you have an “auto-focusing” binocular. However, if you want to see the leaves on those trees or the dirt specks on the license plate, you must refocus.

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Photo, Illustration, or Comment Photo Illustrating Depth of Field
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Some companies market binoculars that don’t have a focus mechanism, supporting the notion that no focusing is required. The real magic here is in the ad campaign and not the binocular. These instruments force the user's eyes to adapt to their fixed-focus setting. This can lead to eyestrain, headaches, and less than crisp imagery at all distances.

Furthermore, without the ability to focus, there is no way to compensate for the observer’s different dioptric strengths, and few are the people with perfectly matched dioptric strengths. There is a three-diopter difference in mine. Do you know your settings?

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Photo, Illustration, or Comment Illustration of how eye muscles work and that eyes are rarely perfectly matched
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For a time, Celestron marketed a line of fixed-focus binoculars—which the others should more correctly be called—but they had the integrity to market them as "fixed-focus" instruments and nothing more. In that case, the responsibility for buying an acceptable product falls entirely on the consumer.

On a number of occasions, people have assured me they could see just as good, or “better,” with a fixed-focus product as they could with any “so-called quality binocular” made. If they were happy, I must be happy for them. Still, their assertion relates more to what they don’t understand or appreciate about what a binocular should do for them than actual empirical performance. Even so, let’s try to understand why they feel this way, without throwing Uncle Ernie under the bus.

A person might grab his binocular to see who it was that just drove slowly past his house. He doesn’t notice that the burgundy car looks purple (with a yellow/green fringe on the right side), that the image starts getting soft 1/3 of the way off-axis, or that the binocular is out of collimation and he has to use the limits of his spatial accommodation to achieve an acceptable image.

That poor quality binocular told him what he wanted to know; his needs were met. Would he have noticed the difference had he been using a Swarovski or Leica? Probably not. Physics never takes a back seat to opinion. But, it’s opinion—not physics—that make cash registers ring!
 
Bill, will you quit teasing and just post a link to your book.

Just asking because I'm interested, Bryce...

Don't I wish . . . I need the money. I wanted a burger, today, but that wasn't a happening thing.

It ain't soup, yet. I'm working on the last two sections, right now. Believe me, I want this sucker done. It looks like I will go with Amazon's POD stuff. Everybody else wants me to write the book THEY want to publish. I don't like complex solutions for simple problems. And yeah, I keep posting bits here and there. But, my gig has always been to cut the crap and save folks from themselves. The book is not going to make me rich. But helping my neighbor makes me feel good. At my age, I need all that I can get. :D

Cheers,

Bill
 
It seems to be a matter of significance:

--You move the eyepieces to and fro together to focus on a target.
This is the "first order" of approximation.

--You can shift the occular position for one eye, to account for differences
between eyes, just like having different prescriptions for you eyes.
This is is a lesser, "second order" effect.

---Perhaps one eye doesn't adjust like the other at different distances?
This is an even smaller "third order" difference.
If it is a big difference, this is due to either problems with one or both eyes,
or perhaps...OCD.


Just sayin'...
I feel the need to 'get real'.
The diopter ring improves your lot in life; it cannot solve all conditions,
physical and personal.

If your standards and/or physical condition require you readjust the diopter
ring contantly.....you have my sympathy, but as the ancient saying goes:
"The dogs bark but the caravan moves on"..

In a nutshell:

Go ahead and adjust the diopter ring somewhere midway in your useful range.
It will not solve all your problems down to the last arc-second, but it's a
damn sight better than not having it! Do you have tougher physical or
psychic issues? Knock yourself out, diddle all day. I have other exhibits to get to,
and the white glove treatment won't get in the way of my satisfaction.
 
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Interestingly, that doesn't work as well for me (neither does shutting an eye). Covering one objective with the cap and then the other seems to yield the best results in my case. When I try diopter adjustment with both eyes open it feels like my eyes may be trying to compensate a little. But then I test the adjustment by racking focus to targets at 100-200' and then near infinity. With both eyes it's pretty obvious if a target snaps sharp for one eye an instant before the other.
 
"it feels like my eyes may be trying to compensate a little."

They are; don't let them.

Staring--like playing a musical instrument--takes practice. However, once it's mastered, you'll not need any special this or special that. You'll just enjoy your observing.

Cheers,

Bill
 
"it feels like my eyes may be trying to compensate a little."

They are; don't let them.

Staring--like playing a musical instrument--takes practice. However, once it's mastered, you'll not need any special this or special that. You'll just enjoy your observing.

Cheers,

Bill
 
That's kind of the idea behind 100-200', although if you aren't looking that close
at the time, a re-trimming helps. I'm often staring 200 yds into a pond so I set it
there at the beaver lodge/swan nest/duck/hawk zone.

If someone has eyes with really different accomodation, some old 6x30
independent-focus would be a great thing. More range between the eyes and
a much bigger depth of field than others. I use 6x30 tracking birds from feeder
at 50 ft to trees at 200-300 ft.
 
I have issues with this too. And being a perfectionist by nature, I fool around quite a bit. Maybe more so in finding the perfect target for the diopter adjustment. I've tried all sorts of different things and I'm pretty happy with a "Bully Hill" cardboard wine in a box carton that I have about 40 or so yards away. Seems just the right size lettering to get the exact right focus. But its a struggle still and I find setting the left eye, then closing and setting the right doesn't always provide the very best focus for me. So then I sometimes open both eyes and move the diopter adjuster to where the view seems most right. This method seems to provide a good moderate close to far sharpness but in closer I sometimes have to make more adjustment. fwiw OPTIC_NUT seems right on, the more sharpness you want and demand the more fiddling you seem to end up doing. My right eye seems to be lazy and then you figure in caffeine, fatigue, etc... and heh, who knows? I do know I can get my diopter what seems like perfect at one distance and can find it not perfect at other distances.

I guess I wonder why bino makers don't put more accurate scales on diopter adjusters. They often show degrees but with a dot say not close enough to the degree scale. Say you had a sharp pointer intersecting the degree scale and the degree scale broken down into more precise increments? How about a bino with his and hers locking diopter settings? So when trading binos to look you would be able to just turn the diopter to your general location. You wouldn't have to fool around because there would be a stop. I know how aggravating it is to try and share a set of binos if neither of you has 20-20 vision. LOL
 
I have issues with this too. And being a perfectionist by nature, I fool around quite a bit. Maybe more so in finding the perfect target for the diopter adjustment. I've tried all sorts of different things and I'm pretty happy with a "Bully Hill" cardboard wine in a box carton that I have about 40 or so yards away. Seems just the right size lettering to get the exact right focus. But its a struggle still and I find setting the left eye, then closing and setting the right doesn't always provide the very best focus for me. So then I sometimes open both eyes and move the diopter adjuster to where the view seems most right. This method seems to provide a good moderate close to far sharpness but in closer I sometimes have to make more adjustment. fwiw OPTIC_NUT seems right on, the more sharpness you want and demand the more fiddling you seem to end up doing. My right eye seems to be lazy and then you figure in caffeine, fatigue, etc... and heh, who knows? I do know I can get my diopter what seems like perfect at one distance and can find it not perfect at other distances.

I guess I wonder why bino makers don't put more accurate scales on diopter adjusters. They often show degrees but with a dot say not close enough to the degree scale. Say you had a sharp pointer intersecting the degree scale and the degree scale broken down into more precise increments? How about a bino with his and hers locking diopter settings? So when trading binos to look you would be able to just turn the diopter to your general location. You wouldn't have to fool around because there would be a stop. I know how aggravating it is to try and share a set of binos if neither of you has 20-20 vision. LOL

I doubt more precise increments would help. Our eyes are in constant flux, as far as diopters are concerned, and getting anything "perfect," is like trying to nail Jell-O to a tree; it ain't a happnin' thing. Get focus as close as you reasonably can--then, be happy observing your birds. Considering the crows I usually have to look at, that Northern Flicker can keep me going for a month. :D

Bill
 
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