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Multi-purpose binoculars (1 Viewer)

swamp_rattler

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Anybody have any recommendations for a friend of mine that is looking for a pair of binos (around $300) for astronomy, sporting events, etc etc?
 
Anybody have any recommendations for a friend of mine that is looking for a pair of binos (around $300) for astronomy, sporting events, etc etc?

Hi swamp_rattler,
I hope that others will soon post with specific models...as I will just give you my opinion. I believe that 'astronomy' bins and 'sporting event' bins are completely different. For astronomy, many people opt for bins with higher magnifications (10x, 20x, and higher) and large 'light-gathering' objectives (40mm, 50mm, 70mm, and larger). These bins are bulky, heavy and difficult to keep stable without the use of a tripod. For 'sporting events,' many people prefer bins with lower mags (6x, 7x, and 8x max.), with (since light isn't an issue) smaller objectives (20mm, 25mm, 28mm, 35mm, etc.). Thes bins are more compact, lighter and easier to use without a tripod. I believe that a good bin for both astronomy and sporting events might be somewhere in the 6x30, 7x35, etc. range. Bins in this range would allow the user to use the bins for sporting events. Bins in this range (1 to 5 ratio of mag to objective) would also gather enough light to allow the user to use them for astronomy (without the need for a tripod). Again, I hope that others will post soon and give their input. Best Wishes :t:

Ron Davidson
 
The usual all around compromise is 8x42, but that's for when a large part of the use will be for birdwatching. Birdwatchers carry their binos all day, and have to catch flying birds quickly for hope of an in-flight ID. This leans the compromise towards lower weight, size and power.

The best thing about bigger more powerful binoculars is they allow you to see more. The worst thing about them is carrying them. With astronomy and sporting events, you're just sitting there mainly, not lugging the thing up hill and down dale. Plus, both astronomy and sporting event provide a fairly calm, possibly seated position for the observer, which enables the use of a higher magnification without being so bothered by the shakes.

So, I'll go out on a limb here. Unless the "etc" is a heavy dose of birding or hiking, I'd recommend a 10x50. For $300 dollars there's lots of good choices. Get down to someplace like Cabela's or Sportsman's Warehouse and drive them crazy trying stuff.
Ron
 
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Astronomy and sporting events are really at the opposite end of the binocular requirement spectrum. I have what I would consider to be a very good $300 class roof prism binocular, the Nikon Monarch 8x42. Its resolution at astronomy distances is not really very good, just barely OK. For terresrtial viewing its a good decent and entirely useable binocular. Good but not outstanding. Something like the Vortex Viper is better at both, particularly in astronomy than the Monarch, but it is a $500 class glass. The recently reviewed Promaster ELX knocks the socks off the $300 glass, but again it is a $500 glass.

At $300, stay with a porro prism glass. Thje Swift Audubon 8.5x44 can generally be had for about $250 and the image won't be beat at that price. Its ED glass brother can be had from Hotdigital for $378, that image won't beat untill you get way up there in $$$$$ spent. Good wide FOV of 430' will shine at outdoor sporting events.
 
I have 8x42's and use them for general astronomy, they give good results. Bought them for staring at wildlife. 10x will only help for things such as the moon as a star remains a point of light no matter what. It is light gathering and decent imaging that is more important. Planets appear as small discs but no more at 8x, 10x and 20x. The Plaidies come up good at 8x and 10x. For things like Saturn you need 80x and a steady mount.

Forget things like nebulae and Andromeda, you need a telescope for that.

As said 8x42's pick up more light and reveal more then most realise, unless you are in a good dark sky site. And even then they will still capture more light then the unaided eye.

If they are thinking of meteors then the unaided eye is best, as the chance of pointing binoculars just where the path appears is remote. Field of view is too small.

Cannot think of a sport where 10x would have much advantage over 8x - oh yes archery I used to use 20x for that.
 
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