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ZEISS DTI thermal imaging cameras. For more discoveries at night, and during the day.

top model comparisons? (1 Viewer)

ksbird/foxranch

Well-known member
Has anyone done extended comparisons of the Zeiss BG/A T* 7x50 with any Zeiss 7x roofers like the 7x42? (Assuming the most recent models)

Same for the Swaro 10x porros (discontinued I know) with the 10x50 roofers?

Same for the 2 top Nikon 10x42s in roof and porro model?

Internal company comparisons are the most interesting for me for this particular case.
 
I'll jump in since it looks like you're not getting much response. I've owned or used most of these binoculars or their nearly identical siblings, but the only recent "extended comparison" I've done has been between Nikons. If you are hoping for a kind of apples vs apples comparison of prism types I think it would be dangerous to make any generalizations about roof vs Porro with any of these binoculars, even comparing within the same brand, because too many other important design features are different, like different eyepiece and objective designs and optically different focusing systems.

Henry
 
Has anyone done extended comparisons of the Zeiss BG/A T* 7x50 with any Zeiss 7x roofers like the 7x42? (Assuming the most recent models)

Same for the Swaro 10x porros (discontinued I know) with the 10x50 roofers?

Same for the 2 top Nikon 10x42s in roof and porro model?

Internal company comparisons are the most interesting for me for this particular case.

Hello!
There is still a 10x40 Porro from Swarovski's.
A few weeks back I had an eagerly awaited opportunity to test it.
Fab!
Think I am going to get one soon.

Cheers,
Thomas
 
Hello KS,

I could do a comparison between a late model 7x50 Mariner and a 7x42 Dialyt, not an FL. However, the former has Individual Focussing and is unsuited to bird watching. It is large and it's great light gathering power was meant for maritime or astronomical use. Its large exit pupil is wasted, when used under light polluted skies. My recollection is that the 7x42 has a wider field but still has a large sweet spot. FL binoculars do have extraordinary color quality, compared to the older Zeiss glasses.

Is there anything that particularly concerns you?

Happy bird watching,
Arthur
 
The Swaro 10x40 Habichts are really great and 2 years ago during a trip to the desert SW of the USA I used a pair, but I was hoping for a comparison of the 10x50 Swaro porros vs the newer 10x50 roofers. I would have kept looking to find a pair of the 10x40 Habichts but I found a pair of 10x40 center focus Baigish bins NIB for a very low price and they are also one of the sharpest view bins I've ever seen so I lost interest in more searching for the 10x40 Habichts. I have the magnesium body version of the Baigish and they weigh very little so they can be held to the eyes for extended period of time while standing.

I have always heard the QC was lousy on Russian/Ukranian bins, but I have 5 pairs of Baigish bins (1-12x50, 1-10x40 and 3-8x30 all porros), 3 pairs of Yukon bins (1-7x50, 1-12x50 and 1-16x50 all porros), 1 pair of Berkut 7x35 porros, 3 pairs of Tento bins (1-7x35 porro, 1-7x35 roofer and 1-7x50 porro) and the KOMZ 7x30 IF porros. All are very sharp and very well coated. I agree with Holger Merlitz that the 7x30 KOMZ porros are likely the sharpest bins made (for a substantial amount of their FOV) although being IF types they are more useful when watching birds when you are seated on a platform watching some particularly stationary bird activity (turkey ground courting dances, red-winged blackbird nesting colonies or a particularly good fishing hole for shore birds). But the 10x40 and 8x30 Baigish bins are nearly as sharp, more lightweight and easy to carry when wandering around on local trails. The Newcom/Tento 7x35 roofers are sharp and waterproof and so lightweight I have to keep checking to see if they are still there. And the Yukons are all rated as WA models. So my experience has been very positive with all of them, in spite of their general reputation.

The latest experience with the 12x50 Baigish has kept up the trend. I still don't know how anyone can be selling these for $30 + $16 shipping NIB.
 
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Hi

The 12 x 50 price for Baigish sounds incredible is this an online thing or one of the famous auction sites ?
And theres me thinking the really good value Bresser 10 x 50 binoculars for £9.99 in UK were a steal
Regards
RichT
 
Strangely the 12x50 bins were bought on Ebay at the BIN price of $29.95 + $16.95 shipping because they usually got to nearly that price anyway. I mentioned that they came in a really inexpensive Bresser carry case inside the box, so perhaps the Bresser 10x50s you get so inexpensively are also Russian.
 
Hi

Thanks for the info

think the Bressers though often described as German are actually chinese sourced
Will have a look at the auction site for the Baigish

Regards
RichT
 
Strangely the 12x50 bins were bought on Ebay at the BIN price of $29.95 + $16.95 shipping because they usually got to nearly that price anyway. I mentioned that they came in a really inexpensive Bresser carry case inside the box, so perhaps the Bresser 10x50s you get so inexpensively are also Russian.

Being one who firmly believes that you get what you pay for, ksbirds/foxranch’s comments, as an experienced bino user, about a $30 +$16 S&H decent porro intrigued me.

A few days ago I received a Baigish 12x50 porro prism binocular that was mentioned by ksbird/foxranch. I just could not resist the temptation. I like 12x50 far more than the 10x offerings and was curious how this would compare to my beloved 12x50 BN’s.

The data that came with the binos was:
12X
92m/1000m FOV
19 mm Eye Relief
4.17 mm Exit Pupil
192x175x60
0.9 Kg. mass

First of all, some of the technical, non-subjective stuff.

The collimation was within the appropriate tolerances, but just barely. The horizontal is about as good as it gets, less than 5’ but the vertical is 28’ (30’ ISO). This was measured in image space and there may be an issue with the power, which has not been checked yet.

The measured close focus distance is 9.8 meters.

The weight of the binocular, bare, no straps or lens caps, was 25 ozs. (709 g), listed as 2 pounds. Width is 191 mm at my IPD and length is 178 mm. Instrument appears to be mostly plastic, maybe plastic lenses as well.

The resolution tests were a little strange. I will come back to this later but it seemed that the top part of the image was more out of focus than it should have been. The best figures were 3.2 arc seconds/line pair in the right tube and 3.6 arc seconds/line pair in the left tube. I would occasionally get into small zones that were not this good, being about a group less, about 6”/lp. The ISO limits are 300/aperture=6”/lp. Someone else may do a little better since I was at the limits of my setup, resolving group 7, elements 2 and 3 of the USAF 1951 chart at 400 mm.

CA seemed too good. Even at 60-72x looking at the collimator grid lines, I noticed no color fringing when focusing through the lines. Someone else will have to check this though. I think I have spent the last 45 years learning to ignore CA in higher-powered survey instruments and I am not going to learn to see it again and irritate myself with it at this late date.

There is a very little amount of squaring of the exit pupil apparent and I can only see 46-48 mm of objective aperture with a lens at the exit pupil. I also need to recheck the collimator settings, as the FOV seems to measure 6.7 degrees instead of the 5.3 shown on the instrument (93m/1000m). The view also exhibits a moderate amount of pincushion distortion.

The exit pupils, specified as 4.17 mm, measured 4.8/5.0 mm ???

The eye relief is almost a little short for me. I measured 8 mm from glass to the top of the eyecup and about 12 mm total. The specs called for 19 mm. I had to press my eyes in a little more than usual to get a full view.

Brightness is something less than either the 12x50 Trinovid or the similarly sized exit pupil of the 8x36 Monarch. Math wise, there is about 9% difference in the Monarch’s and Trinovids, though I am hard pressed to see it. The Baigish is noticeably dimmer, even by the simple test of holding up two pair and comparing the exit pupils. The color shift is also noticeable. There is a transmittance curve attached but is to be used for the general shape of the curve. It is not a good calibrated representation of the levels. The color data should be good though. I am not set up to test porro designs with a 30mm offset in the light train and lose calibration when moving the detector over to capture the exit pupil. For me to notice the difference this way, I would assume the Baigish to be at least 10% less than the Monarch and Trinovids.

With the FOV and exit pupil measurements not making sense to me, I went back and measured the magnification level of this bino. Instead of 12x I found a left tube of 9.6x and right tube of 9.5x. This information put the FOV, exit pupils and some questions about the transmission (brightness) issues in a more consistent state. Note that as a 10x50, this bino should have been approximately 20% brighter than the Monarch, a 5 mm exit pupil versus 4.5 mm.

The color presentation through the Baigish is pleasing and close enough to neutral to not be a real issue to me but slightly more red than the Nikons. The contrast is on a par with the Monarchs and just slightly lower than the Trinovids. I have attached the full color file and added a few notes for those who have asked me about this. For reference data, the Trinovids averaged 586.2 nm (255/236) at .129, Monarchs averaged 589.7 nm (255/223) at 0.103 and the Baigish 599.8 nm (255/190) at .098. The numbers in parenthesis are the RGB conversion of the dominant wavelength to average Red/Green value for reference. As can be seen, a lot of how you would perceive the neutrality would depend on how sensitive you are to the red or green components. With all three binos being about 90% white and the small shifts in color only applying to the remaining 10% of the level, it is easy to see how close to neutral they are without direct comparison.

So much for the objective stuff now, to the subjective and the minuses of these binoculars.

Focus is smooth, a little on the stiff side and backwards with a decent speed for my use.

Now for the real minuses. While trying to figure out the apparent zone resolution and focus differences, I took the binos outside for a quick star test. Unfortunately no stars were visible due to a very thin overcast but I had a decent view of the moon. The first thing I noticed was some internal reflections, pretty strong reflections at that. The main one in both tubes seemed to directly related to the objective lens as it stayed in a constant position relative to the target as the moon was moved around in the FOV, 4 o’clock in the right tube and 12 o’clock in the left tube, this one being the weaker of the two. There were also 3 more reflections in each tube of a stepped size that changed alignment and distance from the center with the position of the moon in the FOV. Further investigation showed that the only visible coating on the objective had a green coating but there was a large, bright, white reflection from inside. Looking from the eyepiece side I could see two or three surfaces with a magenta cast, but again, a large bright, white reflection (prism?) deep inside and shows from both ends. I think the aligned reflections may be coming from the prisms. I also think the reflections may have been the cause of the of the bad resolution zones during resolution testing since the grid was backlit and the room pretty dark otherwise.

While moving the moons image around in the FOV I noticed that as you moved the image into the upper or lower part of the view, the image would get taller and narrower while moving to the left or right part of the field the image got shorter and wider. This astigmatism, coupled with a previously noted 2 or 2.5 diopter curvature produced the interesting effect of having a reasonably focused image horizontally across the image while the top and bottom portions were out of focus.

I find these binos to be a good, cheap pair useful for daylight use, well worth the $50 out of pocket. Stargazers or low light users will find them disappointing. I would not feel bad about loaning them to people for daylight use.

At this price, I imagine sample variation could cover a broad range indeed.

I hope this quick, brief review will answer some questions others looking at these binoculars may have.

Best,
Ron
 

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Excellent review, Ron!

I'm confused on a few points, such as what "zones" of lower resolution means. Does that mean off-axis areas?

How did you measure resolution at 400mm? Is that measurement from the objective or the focal plane? I assume it was done at boosted magnification and the collimator was involved somehow. 3.2/3.6 arcsec are quite respectable for a 50mm binocular.

When you mention "squaring of the exit pupils", does that mean straight shadows at the edge indicating BK7 glass?

Overall, this appears to be a very sloppily specified binocular; seriously wrong magnification, stopped down objective, eye relief way under spec. They can't even get the weight right! I think from your description that you're correct about the prisms being uncoated, which would partly explain the dazzling reflections viewing the moon and the dimmer image compared to your other bins. Your color transmission tests are fascinating, but I confess I only really understand the graph of the transmission curve. Is the rise in transmission at wavelengths shorter than 470nm real or a measurement artifact?

Again, excellent job. I hope to see more of these!

Henry
 
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I'm confused on a few points, such as what "zones" of lower resolution means. Does that mean off-axis areas?

Henry, I am not sure what I was seeing. I think it is an area that is within one of the reflections described. Using a 6x booster on the center group (see photo, my chart has groups in a circle around the center group) I could see areas of decreased resolution and attribute it to being within a reflection.

How did you measure resolution at 400mm? Is that measurement from the objective or the focal plane? I assume it was done at boosted magnification and the collimator was involved somehow. 3.2/3.6 arcsec are quite respectable for a 50mm binocular.

I use a machined collimator with a USAF 1951 chart at the focal plane, 400 mm lens. This configuration always shows the same angle of elements regardless of distance of the instrument to collimator. Mostly follows the specifications of the ISO model.

When you mention "squaring of the exit pupils", does that mean straight shadows at the edge indicating BK7 glass?

Yes, but the paperwork says BAK4. I can just barely discern this with the naked eye, but became apparent while I was measuring the exit pupils with the optical scale.

Is the rise in transmission at wavelengths shorter than 470nm real or a measurement artifact?

Henry, good question. I am sure the blue is at the level indicated, otherwise the cast would have been so red as to be irritating. What I am not sure about is whether this is a boost or the fact that the dip may actually be measured through a reflection.
 

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Henry,

Is the rise in transmission at wavelengths shorter than 470nm real or a measurement artifact?

Henry, after more thought I believe this to be a boost of the blue, or more likely, a little more loss in the cyan/green area around 500 nm since this is averaged values of a sampled 10 mm beam and not a slice through the aperture.
 
I don't have the sophisticated test equipment that some have, but using a very simple test my Baigish 12x50s were in fact 12x magnification compared to the Pentax dcf WP 12x50, the New Pine Ridge Cabelas 12x50 roofer and the Yukon 12x50 Futura. I also used the Baigish 10x40, Zeiss Hensoldt 10x50, the Breaker LE 14x60 (really a 10.7x55 but with long eye relief) and the Nikon 10x35 for this test. I often test Chinese binoculars with this same test and find them wanting.

I take a tripod fitted with a 1/4 20 removable quick release top, a flash/camera bar with 2 - 1/4 20 threaded locking bolts, 2 slo mo telescope heads that are very narrow and have 1/4 20 top thread locking bolts and 2 slotted "L" brackets with 1/4 20 nuts. This allows me to mount up 2 pairs of binoculars side by side, and then using the slo mo controls I can make the right eye of one pair of binoculars collimated with the left eye of the other pair of binoculars. The slotted "L" brackets allow binoculars with different eye lens positions to be aligned, front-to-back.

The first thing I needed to do was check to see if the magnification of the 12x Baigish bins I own were similar enough to the other 12x bins that I couldn't see a difference. The sensitivity of the eye to 1x of magnification difference is quite remarkable. Looking at a lightning-struck tree that is basically a tall post, with a "No Hunting" sign near the bottom or a telephone pole with 2 levels of cross bars will show the difference between a 12x and an 11x binocular immediately. As I said, the Chinese sample bins sent to me often show the marked magnification to be meaningless as 14x bins are often 11x and 12x are often 10x etc.

There was almost no difference between any of the 4 - 12x bins listed above (and certainly no visible difference in the center of the field where differences in pin cushion distortion would be limited). Yet in every single case each of 12x bins showed a dramatic difference in magnification compared to any of the 10x or 10.7x bins. I wonder if the binoculars sent out by the seller of these Baigish/Bresser/? binoculars are those that didn't meet a batch spec and as a rejected batch, some might be okay and some not. Sending them back for replacement usually helps if this is the case.

Also when I mentioned how lightweight the Baigish 12x50 model I received was, I hadn't measured the weight. I did that today on a very precise digital Pitney Bowes postal scale. These are very accurate as they will print postage and so as not to lose money, the post office is very careful to have them calibrated regularly. The Baigish bins I have weigh 24.7 ounces with no strap or lens caps. That's 700/701 grams and would have to be considered pretty lightweight in today's market. The body is plastic of some sort and the prism covers are metal. When viewing through the objective lenses there are three anti-reflection colors visible: cyan, magenta and blue. I do see the "white" reflection (actually my white reflection is almost blue-white like fresh snow under overcast skies) but that doesn't always indicate "no anti-reflection coatings".

The Russians have always, always made the cheapest high-end zirconium oxide in the world and they are the world's biggest exporters of cubic zirconia "fake diamonds". The quality of the Russian zirconium oxide is unquestionably the best. I have seen quite a few Russian telescope lenses coated only in water-white zirconium oxide. I have a 9 inch Maksutov Newtonian telescope of this type. I've been told often by Russian optical physicists that while Russians prefer zirconium oxide for their coatings because there is no color shift due to narrow-band coating reflections, the psychology of the American markets is that if they can't see the coatings they won't believe they are there. On the other hand it is also known that the Russians dope some of the types of glass they make so the glass is less "rope-y", for more consistent light-throughput and this can sometimes cut total light transmission. So while it is possible that the Baigish 12x50 have uncoated prisms, I know the Baigish 10x40 has coated prisms at least. The Baigish 10x40 is a very high quality magnesium-body bin that is more expensive than the new Baigish 12x50 or the old Baigish Navy 12x45, but I am only commenting that it is still possible for the Baigish 12x50 to have multicoated prisms, "white" reflections and lower than expected light transmission.
 
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