• Welcome to BirdForum, the internet's largest birding community with thousands of members from all over the world. The forums are dedicated to wild birds, birding, binoculars and equipment and all that goes with it.

    Please register for an account to take part in the discussions in the forum, post your pictures in the gallery and more.
ZEISS DTI thermal imaging cameras. For more discoveries at night, and during the day.

North Peru DIY Planning (1 Viewer)

The trail starts in by the far left corner of the football field in San Lorenzo village. It's a pretty steep climb up to 3000 metres altitude which is prime area for Pale-billed Antpitta (and where I also had Russet-mantled Softtail).

To be honest, you never really hit good habitat, the trail (which is mostly good, if slippery at times and probably not toddler friendly) follows a ridge which is cleared either side pretty much all the way with just a narrow strip of poor vegetation with just enough bamboo for the antpitta. In my opinion it's a miracle there are good birds here at all, and one has to wonder for how long there will be, but there is a fair bit of decent habitat visible on surrounding hillsides so presumably once this site becomes no longer viable someone resourceful will identify another nearby.

Getting a taxi here from Pomacochas isn't a problem. One evening, with a couple of hours to kill before dark when the rain finally stopped bucketing, I walked the road for a couple of miles from the main road at Chido and records included a male spatuletail.

PS: don't recommend the trail with a hangover ;-)

Brilliant Steve :t:
 
I appreciate all the discussion and information! Steve, if one takes a taxi from Pomacochas to San Lorenzo or Huembo, how to you get back to Pomacochas? Arrange for a pickup with the taxi driver who dropped you off, or just set off and flag somebody down?

There seems to be sparse information out there regarding car hire from Tarapoto, but I read on a tripadvisor thread from 2015 that the travel agency tourstierraverde offers car rental services. I will report back with my findings if I try this route.

The trail starts in by the far left corner of the football field in San Lorenzo village. It's a pretty steep climb up to 3000 metres altitude which is prime area for Pale-billed Antpitta (and where I also had Russet-mantled Softtail).

To be honest, you never really hit good habitat, the trail (which is mostly good, if slippery at times and probably not toddler friendly) follows a ridge which is cleared either side pretty much all the way with just a narrow strip of poor vegetation with just enough bamboo for the antpitta. In my opinion it's a miracle there are good birds here at all, and one has to wonder for how long there will be, but there is a fair bit of decent habitat visible on surrounding hillsides so presumably once this site becomes no longer viable someone resourceful will identify another nearby.

Getting a taxi here from Pomacochas isn't a problem. One evening, with a couple of hours to kill before dark when the rain finally stopped bucketing, I walked the road for a couple of miles from the main road at Chido and records included a male spatuletail.

PS: don't recommend the trail with a hangover ;-)
 
Guessing you'd have to arrange for pick up. Or else there were three wheeler taxis at the Chido bridge, so I guess you could walk back to there and hope someone passes in the meantime. It's quite a walk, but fairly birdy, and it would relieve any time pressures whilst on the trail.

Definitely be interested to hear back if you can track down Tarapoto car hire.
 
Northern Peru

Hi Ovenbird,

Greetings! My name is Pepe Rojas and I just joined Birdforum. I saw your message few days ago and I noticed you had a good amount of info from some folks. I have done this route several times and I would like to add some info that I hope you'll find helpful.

I understand you are trying to be cost effective but not to spend much time waiting for transportation so probably your will be better if you hire a driver to take you to these places. Renting cars in Peru can be rather complicated and the driving is really bad.


Also, look for my notes below your itinerary:

Nov 2. Afternoon flight from Lima. Overnight in Tarapoto.
Check if you can get an earlier flight to Tarapoto and start birding that day in the afternoon. You could start with Cordillera Escalera and/or Koepcke's Center.


Nov 3. AM bird along the Cordillera Escalera (easier with rental car but doable with taxi?), afternoon travel to Moyobamba, with stops along the way (if driving). Overnight at Wakanki Lodge or in Moyobamba.

It shouldn't be difficult to get transportation to Cordillera Escalera. Ask to the hotel clerk where you will staying to get you a reliable taxi. Try to bird the Koepecke's place and the tunnels if you can. Beyond the tunnels area is where you could find Plumbeous Euphonia and Dotted Tanager.

Nov 4. All day Wakanki - hike to see Ash-throated Antwren, other targets = Rufous-crested Coquette, Fiery-capped Manakin, Black-bellied Tanager, Mishana Tyrannulet.

This is a great place and worth it to invest a full day. Besides the great hummingbird feeders (it attracts something like 26 species if I recall right) is a great place to see the Mishana Tyrannulet. I had seen it around the hummingbird feeders few times but it can be somewhere else. Be aware that the hike for the Ash-throated Antwren can be demanding and it will depend of your shape too but there is is a very good chance you can score that bird.
Owling is also good for this area.


Nov 5. Morning birding at Wakanki or Moyobamba surroundings (e.g. Indane wetlands for Masked Duck, crakes). Stop at Afluenta area if possible. PM arrive at Fundo Alto Nieva, stay overnight.

You might want to bird also Morro de Calzada in Moyobamba, where there is a different form of the Striped Manakin (this is the aureopectus subspecies that occurs at foothills and might be a different species)
Afluente is a great spot. There is a place know as Llanteria (llanta means tire in Peru and this place is a workshop where they fixed flat tires, hence the name) The guy who owns the places had a small trail and wanted to develop more in the area.


Nov 6. All day at Fundo Alto Nieva. Many targets, incl. the owlet, Royal Sunangel, Johnson's Tody-Tyrant, White-capped Tanagers, Ochre-fronted, Chestnut, and Rusty-tinged Antpittas, plus more.

It would be great if you could stay there. As Gunnar mentioned in a comment, the price is not so bad and you will be on location for other species like Cinnamon Screech-Owl. Kenny, knows the spots!

Nov 7. Morning birding at Fundo (or nearby areas if have car), afternoon drive to Huembo for Marvelous Spatuletail. Overnight at new Huembo lodge or in cheap hotel in Pomocochas.

The Spatuletail is almost guarantee at the feeders of Huembo as well as other species. Worse case scenario, the manager of Huembo could take you to his property to see it.

Nov 8. Morning/afternoon at Rio Chido/San Lorezno for Pale-billed Antpitta, Russet-mantled Softail, and some other targets. Evening back at Huembo or Pomocochas.

I read some comments about this trail but I had a different experience in the past and scored a couple of very good mixed flocks. For sure, the "main dish" is the Antpitta and the Softail. For this outing your best contact will be the manager at Huembo as well.

Nov 9. Return to Tarapoto for pm. flight to Lima.

The link Larry sent you has a lot of great info for the birding sites:

http://perubirds.org/rutas_San_Lorenzo_Rio_Chido.shtml


Also check at Xeno Canto (http://www.xeno-canto.org/) for the bird calls.

Anyway, I hope this helps and if you ave any more questions please let me know.

Cheers.

Pepe
 
Hi a few brief thoughts after returning from this area last week:


Nov 2. Afternoon flight from Lima. Overnight in Tarapoto.

Nov 3. AM bird along the Cordillera Escalera (easier with rental car but doable with taxi?), afternoon travel to Moyobamba, with stops along the way (if driving). Overnight at Wakanki Lodge or in Moyobamba.


Nov 4. All day Wakanki - hike to see Ash-throated Antwren, other targets = Rufous-crested Coquette, Fiery-capped Manakin, Black-bellied Tanager, Mishana Tyrannulet.

Only bird high up is the Antwren - we didn't try this trip (see before) but it is a long walk - set off early and bird back,

Try and fit in Aguas Verdez for 2 Tinamous and RB Wood-quail showwing well last week from 6.30am and BF Brilliant on feeders

Nov 5. Morning birding at Wakanki or Moyobamba surroundings (e.g. Indane wetlands for Masked Duck, crakes). Stop at Afluenta area if possible. PM arrive at Fundo Alto Nieva, stay overnight.

Zigzag trail at Wakanki for new Manakin; vocal but rather skittish.
Masked Ducks skittish, scope from top of the hill - swims into reeds straight away

FAN is a great site - male Royal Sunangel currently on feeders 200m from lodge down the hill, late afternoon seems good. Have a first try for Owlet in evening. Not very responsive - may need to go off trail,

Nov 6. All day at Fundo Alto Nieva. Many targets, incl. the owlet, Royal Sunangel, Johnson's Tody-Tyrant, White-capped Tanagers, Ochre-fronted, Chestnut, and Rusty-tinged Antpittas, plus more.

Rusty-tinged Antpitta fed at dawn - tame and easy, 20mins from lodge; return along same trail and trawl for responsive OF Antpitta


Nov 7. Morning birding at Fundo (or nearby areas if have car), afternoon drive to Huembo for Marvelous Spatuletail. Overnight at new Huembo lodge or in cheap hotel in Pomocochas.

Good male Spatuletail currently on feeder 2 and perching behind ow low bracken or in woodland behind feeder 3

Nov 8. Morning/afternoon at Rio Chido/San Lorezno for Pale-billed Antpitta, Russet-mantled Softail, and some other targets.

Walk up early and see Antpitta asap then trawl for other specialities. We heard the Treehunter but id din't come in. See the Wren. We did the Antpitta (2 hour drive from FAN) and Spatuletail easily in one day from FAN so worth considering that to save time and save on logistics

Evening back at Huembo or Pomocochas.

Nov 9. Return to Tarapoto for pm. flight to Lima.

cheers, alan
 
You might want to bird also Morro de Calzada in Moyobamba, where there is a different form of the Striped Manakin (this is the aureopectus subspecies that occurs at foothills and might be a different species)
Afluente is a great spot. There is a place know as Llanteria (llanta means tire in Peru and this place is a workshop where they fixed flat tires, hence the name) The guy who owns the places had a small trail and wanted to develop more in the area.


Take care that there have been some robberies at Morro de Calzada, and I was warned off it (about one year ago) by a couple friends as well as the folks at Waqanki. I would certainly get up to date gen before heading there.
 
You might want to bird also Morro de Calzada in Moyobamba, where there is a different form of the Striped Manakin (this is the aureopectus subspecies that occurs at foothills and might be a different species)
Afluente is a great spot. There is a place know as Llanteria (llanta means tire in Peru and this place is a workshop where they fixed flat tires, hence the name) The guy who owns the places had a small trail and wanted to develop more in the area.


Take care that there have been some robberies at Morro de Calzada, and I was warned off it (about one year ago) by a couple friends as well as the folks at Waqanki. I would certainly get up to date gen before heading there.

The new Striped Manakin is also on the zigzag trail at Q. Misqueyacu / Wakanki (see above), so no real need to do to Morro de Calzada The Mishana Tyrannulet is also at the bottom of Q. Misqueyacu (we heard it here but did not try to see it).

They were not topping up the feeders at Llantera last week but an optimistic Ecuadorian Piedtail was still popping in, if you need that one.

cheers, a
 
I would not be scared of a car rental, and would recommend it,
you will really increase your ability to get around and be flexible and pick up more birds.


Nov 2. Afternoon flight from Lima. Overnight in Tarapoto.

Nov 3. AM bird along the Cordillera Escalera (easier with rental car but doable with taxi?), afternoon travel to Moyobamba, with stops along the way (if driving). Overnight at Wakanki Lodge or in Moyobamba.

As other's have said, hit the Koepcke's station for the hummer. Dotted Tanager and Plumbeous Euphonia are past the station at the metal tower. Park at the tower and check the road for 100-200m for a flock which usually has your birds. Playback for both is actually really effective.

Nov 4. All day Wakanki - hike to see Ash-throated Antwren, other targets = Rufous-crested Coquette, Fiery-capped Manakin, Black-bellied Tanager, Mishana Tyrannulet.

Waqanki is some of the best birding in Peru. Black-bellied Tanager is a gimme. The Coquette should be at the feeders. Just an aside, FC Manakin is at the Koepcke's Station as well and as easy/easier to see there, really common actually. Mishana Tyrannulet is commonish at Waqanki but you need to focus on voice and I'd take a good recording. I had it along the start of the trail near the gardens. The Antwren requires the hike and once up on the ridge you take a tiny side trail. -6.092 -76.991 more or less is the area to look for it. Another two birds to target there are the auripectus Striped Manakin which is most certainly a good species. Along the zig-zag trail around -6.079 -76.980 I had it. Also Waqanki is one / perhaps the best site for Varzea Thrush, actually in the gardens and around the lodge. Definitely ask Jose or Carlos for up to date gen on all the targets as soon as you get there.

Nov 5. Morning birding at Wakanki or Moyobamba surroundings (e.g. Indane wetlands for Masked Duck, crakes). Stop at Afluenta area if possible. PM arrive at Fundo Alto Nieva, stay overnight.

km148 area is a good stop for Pale-eyed Blackbird and Black-billed Seedfinch. Afluente and Reserva Arena Blanca is a fantastic stop but need to be there in the morning for the Tinamous and Wood-Quail. Good hummer feeders, and if your ears are tuned up for Swifts and Parrotlets, a good site for White-chinned Swift and Spot-winged Parrotlet (the Parrotlet is seasonal I believe).

Nov 6. All day at Fundo Alto Nieva. Many targets, incl. the owlet, Royal Sunangel, Johnson's Tody-Tyrant, White-capped Tanagers, Ochre-fronted, Chestnut, and Rusty-tinged Antpittas, plus more.

I think others have said but Johnson's Tody-Tyrant and Chestnut Antpitta are higher up, at Puente Sin Nombre, the last trail on the south side of the road along a creek (can be muddy as hell, gumboots mandatory) before the Owlet Lodge. You can get Cinnamon-breasted Tody-Tyrant pretty readily at FAN as well. The Owlet can be hard. Try morning and night, as much as they will let you, it took me 4 tries but that was spread out over a longer visit to the general area. 70 soles / person / try but I think the price is quite fair as it is their big draw and they do try to limit the use of playback and abuse of the birds. There is a restaurant about 200m along the road from FAN for a food option, not sure what food is like there now. I car camped at the restaurant, cooked mostly for myself, and just paid entrance fees to FAN.

Nov 7. Morning birding at Fundo (or nearby areas if have car), afternoon drive to Huembo for Marvelous Spatuletail. Overnight at new Huembo lodge or in cheap hotel in Pomocochas.

Nov 8. Morning/afternoon at Rio Chido/San Lorezno for Pale-billed Antpitta, Russet-mantled Softail, and some other targets. Evening back at Huembo or Pomocochas.

As others have said no need to stay at Huembo and the Spatuletail should not take very long. Give yourself an early start at San Lorenzo for the PB Antpitta and Softtail. They will probably charge you a small community access fee, just FYI. One other thought - if you don't pick up Emerald-bellied Puffleg in the area, it comes to the feeders at Owlet Lodge. I dropped in just to see the lodge for 5 mins and saw it by chance. It's pretty common along the Puente Sin Nombre trail. That area around the lodge and Puente Sin Nombre is also the spot, from what I have ever gathered, for Jelski's Black-Tyrant, but that is a hard bird and I couldn't find it in many days' effort.

Nov 9. Return to Tarapoto for pm. flight to Lima.

One other thought is the Upaquihua area (S of Tarapoto) can be visitied in a day and has Rufous-capped Nunlet, Chestnut-throated Spinetail, Sulphur-bellied Tyrant-Manakin, Mishana Tyrannulet, and some dry forest birds that are scarce in that part of S America like Rufous Casiornis, Ashy-headed Greenlet, N Slaty Antshrike, Planalto Hermit, Rusty-backed Antwren and more. As well there is Plataforma, but that would require a longer trip.
 
They were not topping up the feeders at Llantera last week but an optimistic Ecuadorian Piedtail was still popping in, if you need that one.

cheers, a

If it's not at the feeders at Elmer's Llanteria, walk the road for a few hundred meters, it feeds in flowers in the cleared/disturbed verges of the road. Just be careful with the traffic, there's a lot and it's annoying. Overall birding the road in that area is not productive due to the road noise/hassle, but it is good for the Piedtail.
 
One other bird to not forget that just popped into my head is Speckle-chested Piculet. It can be in flocks at FAN or anywhere from there down to Reserva Arena Blanca. Piculets tend to respond well to playback, if you can't get a good recording of that species it is vocally near identical to Ocellated Piculet and should respond as well.
 
Also Waqanki is one / perhaps the best site for Varzea Thrush, actually in the gardens and around the lodge. Definitely ask Jose or Carlos for up to date gen on all the targets as soon as you get there.

We didn't even hear Varzea Thrush here last week with just 2 shy Hauxwell's in song (Orchidareum and lower edge of forest). We eventually saw several Varzea Thrushes in a local recreation area near Moyabamba, starting with Y...., which has a load of palms and where I have previously seen PT Palmcreeper (no response this time). There were loads of Black-billed Thrushes and a couple of Varzea coming to a fruiting tree over one of the lakes; we also taped in a Varzea here (photos on Surfbirds tonight)

edit: Yacumama i think

cheers, alan
 
Last edited:
One other thought - if you don't pick up Emerald-bellied Puffleg in the area, it comes to the feeders at Owlet Lodge. I dropped in just to see the lodge for 5 mins and saw it by chance.


Agree with that - we popped in for 10 minutes last week and saw the Puffleg on the left hand feeder; the only place we saw it in our quick visit to the area.

cheers, a
 
We didn't even hear Varzea Thrush here last week with just 2 shy Hauxwell's in song (Orchidareum and lower edge of forest). We eventually saw several Varzea Thrushes in a local recreation area near Moyabamba, starting with Y...., which has a load of palms and where I have previously seen PT Palmcreeper (no response this time). There were loads of Black-billed Thrushes and a couple of Varzea coming to a fruiting tree over one of the lakes; we also taped in a Varzea here (photos on Surfbirds tonight)

cheers, alan

If you remember the name of the place or have GPS coordinates please share, it wasn't trivial to find Varzea Thrush but I tracked one down in Jose's garden/coffee plantation.
 
If you remember the name of the place or have GPS coordinates please share, it wasn't trivial to find Varzea Thrush but I tracked one down in Jose's garden/coffee plantation.

I'll try and dig out the GPS for the fruiting tree - I think I have this. I agree it is a difficult bird - I have missed it before and thought we were going to miss it again!

edit: Varzea Thrush image added

cheers, a
 

Attachments

  • AA4A2870-2 - Copy (4).JPG
    AA4A2870-2 - Copy (4).JPG
    394.3 KB · Views: 76
Last edited:
Aguas Verdes

As mentioned above, this requires a morning visit, aim to meet the reserve owner predawn, get to the feeding station by 6.30 and remain there until about 8.00 am (by when both Tinamous and the Wood-quail should have visited), then move to the hummer feeders for an hour or so. No lifers for me but the Brilliant was brilliant - feeds to the right and perches in the bush under the feeder. We stayed in a small hotel in Rioja think and then left at 5am to get to the reserve - you need to make arrangements for your visit in advance but our guide did this.

cheers, alan
 
Re Aguas Verdes, I didn't see the wood-quail in 10+ hours in January and Black-throated Brilliant is seasonal, wasn't prsent then either.
 
Sorry to hijack this thread but I will also be in North Peru with Henry Cook around this time. We are planning on flying out of London on 1st, arriving in Chiclayo on evening of 2nd before spending 21 days with a hire car in the doing a loop back to Chiclayo. Then we are going to fly to Lima on 23rd for pelagic on 24th, before two days more in Lima and flying home. We will not have a guide. Both of us have been to South America before but not to Peru.

If anyone fancies joining us for all or part of it, do let me know! Does anyone have any tips / good, cheap places to stay including campsites?

Our broad plan is as follows but any suggestions welcome.

2nd Nov: Arrive Chiclayo in evening and stay at Chiclayo

3rd Nov: Visit Bosque Pomac & La Vina before driving to campsite in Quebrada Limon (anyone know exactly where this is?)

4th Nov: Quebrada Limon (Guan Canyon) and surrounding area

5th Nov: Porculla Pass to Jaen area including look for Inca Finch if time. Night in Jaen.

6th Nov: Tamborapa and Bosque de Yanuhuanca in morning before driving to Fundo Alto Nieva. Night FAN

7th Nov: Full day FAN

8th Nov: Try to get access to Owlet Lodge trails. Night FAN.

9th Nov: Arena Blanca in morning, followed by perhaps Aguas Verde, Yacumama and Oilbird bridge. Night in Tarapoto.

10th Nov: Tarapoto Tunnel and ACONABIKH. Night Tarapoto.

11th Nov: Quebrada Upaquihua, Juan Guerra & Laguna Riocuricocha. Night Tarapoto.

12th Nov: Moyobamba. Night Casa de Seizo (?)

13th Nov: Visit Waqanki Lodge trails. Night Casa de Seizo.

14th Nov: Moyobamba area. Could visit Morro Calzada, Humedal de Indane or Tingana. Night Casa de Seizo.

15th Nov: Drive to Pomocochas, stopping at Affluente. Night Pomocochas.

16th Nov: San Lorenzo and Huembo. Night Pomocochas.

17th Nov: Kuelap & El Chillo before driving to Leymebamba. Night Leymebamba.

18th Nov: Rio Atuen, Abra Barro Negro & Kenticafe. Night Leymebamba.

19th Nov: Abra Barro Negro, Balsas, Hacienda Limon. Night Celendin.

20th Nov: Cruz Conga, Rio Chonta. Night Cajamarca.

21st Nov: San Marcos, Abra Gavillan. Night Cajamarca.

22nd Nov: Drive to Chiclayo, perhaps going to Puerto Eten & Santa Rosa in evening.

23rd Nov: Spare morning (maybe to Tinajones). Fly to Lima in evening.

24th Nov: Pelagic

25th Nov: Lima sightseeing

26th Nov: local birding in Lima

27th Nov: fly home.

Thanks,

Oli
 
Hi Oli,

Just a couple general comments: you have a LOT of driving and road conditions can be trying. You will have to drive a lot at night to leave yourself sufficient time to bird, in my opinion.

Some more specific comments:
The Owlet lodge trails are perhaps not necessary, the Puente Sin Nombre trail opposite and a bit below the lodge has Chestnut and Leymabamba Antpitta, Johnson's Tody-Fly along the start of the trail, Emerald-bellied Puffleg and more.

Aguas Verdes and Arena Blanca are sort of the same thing. You can bird a few kms uphill from town along the road but mostly the same birds as you will find at the reserve, I would bird the reserve and if you're missing something key bird a bit above town on the way back to Affluente/Elmer's Llanteria.

For your Tunnel / Koepcke's day, the metal tower past the Koepcke's spot is probably the best stakeout anywhere for Dotted Tanager, and is good for Plumbeous Euphonia.

Upaquihua is excellent, can get everything there without going to Juan Guerra, and I suspect you'll see more concentrating on one spot and not rushing so much. Upaquihua is worth getting to early and spending time, lots of good birds and some can take a bit of time.

I would recommend staying at Waqanki and birding there more, one of the best spots in N Peru, tons of specials to be found. Morro Calzada is not a necessary stop and there have been robberies, might be best avoided.

There is a stop near La Rioja for Pale-eyed Blackbird and Black-billed Seedfinch.

Your drive through the Balsas looks aggressive time wise, it's a long drive and while paved, is very, very windy. It's also very scenic. The birds can be tricky, surprisingly, particularly the Parrotlet. I might suggest bird from Leymabamba to Abra Barro Negro and then start down the other side and camp, continuing in the morning, rather than trying to do Leymabamba to Celendin in one day with the birding.

You'll see a lot no doubt but you are going to miss tons of the hard birds and endemics on such a fast schedule. Just up to you how much variety you want to see vs seeing more of the birds from fewer locations.

Sounds like an awesome trip either way!
 
Warning! This thread is more than 6 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top