Hezekiah received the envoys and showed them all that was in his storehouses—the Silverline Ultravids, the Leupold Gold Rings, the spicy Swaro SLC-HDs, and the fine Nikon Superior Es—most coveted among his treasures. There was nothing in his palace or in all his kingdom that Hezekiah did not show them.
Isaiah spake: The time will surely come when everything in your palace, and all that your predecessors have stored up until this day, will be carried off to China.
Jeremiah
Brock:
Mikefreiburg has told me he is now off the forum, and has moved along.
There may be another Nikon rep. watching the forum, I would expect, so keep posting.
Jerry
Highly likely.
I have a couple of Nikon bins with which it is very easy to induce glare with incorrect ER and eye placement. With correct ER there is no issue.
I am not going to mention which models simply to save some binotic nitpicker from misquoting that there are 'glare issues' when plainly there are not.
Hope that you get to work it out.
Best wishes,
Had some more time to spend with them, on a sunny day with lots of light. When I hold the binoculars right up to my eyes and push the eyecups against my face (I don't wear glasses), I have problems galore - blackouts, that sometimes are dark and other times are dark with a bright edge.
If I instead hold the bins against my eyebrow ridge and tilt (MOLCET, I believe) the view is better, and so long as I am looking at the centre of the image, it looks very nice.
Looking at trees under the sun gives flare, but otherwise the flare issue can be controlled with very careful binocular placement.
If, however, I then move my eyes to look around the image, I get blackouts again. I think that I'm just suffering the case where the exit pupil and my pupil dilation are close enough that alignment is a pain. I think I was just use to being able to look wherever I wanted to with my 8x42.
I think I'd rather train my arms to hold the weight of x42s than train my eyes to look only at the centre of the bin!
Had some more time to spend with them, on a sunny day with lots of light. When I hold the binoculars right up to my eyes and push the eyecups against my face (I don't wear glasses), I have problems galore - blackouts, that sometimes are dark and other times are dark with a bright edge.
If I instead hold the bins against my eyebrow ridge and tilt (MOLCET, I believe) the view is better, and so long as I am looking at the centre of the image, it looks very nice.
Looking at trees under the sun gives flare, but otherwise the flare issue can be controlled with very careful binocular placement.
If, however, I then move my eyes to look around the image, I get blackouts again. I think that I'm just suffering the case where the exit pupil and my pupil dilation are close enough that alignment is a pain. I think I was just use to being able to look wherever I wanted to with my 8x42.
I think I'd rather train my arms to hold the weight of x42s than train my eyes to look only at the centre of the bin!
Had some more time to spend with them, on a sunny day with lots of light. When I hold the binoculars right up to my eyes and push the eyecups against my face (I don't wear glasses), I have problems galore - blackouts, that sometimes are dark and other times are dark with a bright edge.
If I instead hold the bins against my eyebrow ridge and tilt (MOLCET, I believe) the view is better, and so long as I am looking at the centre of the image, it looks very nice.
Looking at trees under the sun gives flare, but otherwise the flare issue can be controlled with very careful binocular placement.
If, however, I then move my eyes to look around the image, I get blackouts again. I think that I'm just suffering the case where the exit pupil and my pupil dilation are close enough that alignment is a pain. I think I was just use to being able to look wherever I wanted to with my 8x42.
I think I'd rather train my arms to hold the weight of x42s than train my eyes to look only at the centre of the bin!
David...I dont understand ..The eyecup can be used to control EXCESSIVE eye relief ,keeping the eye at the right distance.When you explain your experience with the linx without glasses,I assume You used the cups fully extended..Couldnt You have reached the right distance for the ER to be effective,by collapsing the eyecups ¿ Or are the Lynx eyecups cutting usable ER even when fully collapsed??...It is a shame when a good design looses precious usable eye relief by a poorly designed ocular casing or eyecup.. simple to correct and not necessarily more expensive using the right design..(zeiss fl)Sam,
I's not easy to diagnose ER issues at a distance but I found the M7 8x30 a bit tricky on eye positioning. The eyecup reach seemed a fraction short without glasses but with little practice and a version of the Molcet it worked pretty well. With my glasses it was pretty good from the start. Kite's version the Lynx, has different eyecups and was a little easier to position without glasses but resulted in a very short ER.
David
David...I dont understand ..The eyecup can be used to control EXCESSIVE eye relief ,keeping the eye at the right distance.When you explain your experience with the linx without glasses,I assume You used the cups fully extended..Couldnt You have reached the right distance for the ER to be effective,by collapsing the eyecups ¿ Or are the Lynx eyecups cutting usable ER even when fully collapsed??...It is a shame when a good design looses precious usable eye relief by a poorly designed ocular casing or eyecup.. simple to correct and not necessarily more expensive using the right design..(zeiss fl)
As part of my search for a new pair of light binoculars, I picked up an M7 10x30 from Amazon, which arrived today. Serial number 30014xx.
So far I am pleased with the image but have noticed a grey haze across the view when looking in the shadows of the trees under an overcast sky. I did not notice the same haze with my previous binoculars (Talon 8x42), nor with the Swaro 8x25 I am also demoing at the moment.
After reading about uncoated internal components (a topic I am not well versed in) I had a look and see what I think is a 'shiny' part. The attached photo shows the objective end of the M7 10x30 while I am shining a flashlight, trying to catch the 'shiny' part (yellow arrow)
For those in the know, is this the uncoated ring others have seen?
Hi Sam,
I found this forum thread through Google search. Before I purchased my Monarch 7 10x30 from B&H, I found this thread and thoroughly read the issues. Well, I received my Monarch 7's over a week ago and they're on their way back to B&H.
BTW, I left my review of the Monarch 7 10x30 on the Amazon site.
Picture 1: Here's the problem from my Monarch 7 10x30s
Picture 2: Here's a good view from my Monarch ATB 12x42s
In both shots, the iPhone camera was about 7" from the eye-piece end looking into a bright source of light. You can clearly see the splinter of light which affects the end user's vision.
Was very noticeable to me when looking into a moderately bright source... my Monarch 5 20x56 nor the Monarch ATB 12x42 binos do this...
If true that was fast!!
It does occur to me that there is a Nikon 8x30 that has been discontinued in the recent past - the 8x30 Ell. I wonder if they have mixed up the models? I think it used to be in their list until recently, but has now disappeared.
Stan