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Conference birding 350 metres below sea level Dead Sea, Jordan 25-29 April 2015 (1 Viewer)

MKinHK

Mike Kilburn
Hong Kong
After a more than usually grim flight from Hong Kong to Amman via Dubai the taxi from the airport to the Marriott Dead Sea Resort made the journey in an effortless 50 minutes at a bit faster than comfortable birding speed. With no opportunity to stop the only birds that could be added with confidence were a Pallid Swift that flew helpfully alongside the road, and numerous Laughing Doves. There was also a grey shrike sp. and three different unidentified kestrels that wishful thinking would have as Lessers.

As late April is pretty much the peak of the northward spring migration I had high hopes of the hotel – well-vegetated grounds and lots of running water perched above the beautiful but utterly Dead Sea in the bleak desolation of the parched and stony Jordan Valley. I was not to be disappointed. Looking out from my room Pale Rock Martins drifted above the swimming pool, Laughing Doves perched on rooftops and strutted along the edge of the pool with a few House Sparrows. My first migrant was a freshly killed and partially eaten female Blackcap lying on the lawn. Moments later I was distracted by a live bird zipping into the tree next to me, which turned out to be the first of something like 50 Blackcaps which were clearly moving through in substantial numbers. Through the rest of the afternoon I had wonderful views of them in trees, feeding on the ground, around a pile of landscape waste, and drinking from a water feature by the main gate. I thoroughly enjoyed the spectacle, the like of which I had not seen since I was last in Jordan in 2001, when a fig orchard near the headquarters of Wadi Dana had hosted a similar profusion of southward-moving migrants.

A larger and more rufous-coloured bird disappearing into the bushes was the first of what must have been half-a-dozen Thrush Nightingales, and curiously the only other individual I had ever seen had also been in Jordan been at Shaumari Nature Reserve on the same trip. Having read about how skulking they were I was delighted to have terrific views of several different birds feeding on the ground, reminding me at different times of Gray’s Grasshopper Warbler and Rufous-tailed Robin. I was a little surprised how distinctive they were (well, distinctive for a subfusc dusty-grey skulker) with little hint of rufous in the plumage, softly grey-speckled breast and the small but distinctive submoustachial streak. Only one bird – with a slightly more prominent eyering had me wondering about Nightingale, but it disappeared too fast for a confirmation.

Other resident birds included a score or so of Yellow-vented Bulbuls, including an adult feeding two vocal youngsters and eight Palestine Sunbirds – the majority grey-plumaged females, but also a couple of shining black males. I had four different frustratingly brief fly-away views of a male Masked Shrike, but better luck with three European Blackbirds, and a pair of Little Green Bee-eaters and a White-throated Kingfisher that were just across the road from the main gate. Three Fan-tailed Ravens had claimed sole possession of the streetlights and occasionally soared over, distinctively black and short-tailed against the beautiful blue sky. I also had good views of an Eastern Olivaceous Warbler lurking around the water treatment plant outside the gate, and distant views of a buzzard sp. and three more distant large raptor sp. far away above the rock-shattered hills behind the hotel.

Both Red-rumped and Barn Swallows, presumably migrants, stopped to feed over the compound, a classic black-masked, grey-headed Lesser Whitethroat and a solitary Eurasian Starling hinted at the potential for more variety over the coming days, as did a tantalisingly slender falcon sp. that flew a short distance overhead as I watched sun disappear over the mountains across the Dead Sea.

Cheers
Mike
 

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I got going at 7am on my second morning and immediately began scoring well as a Hoopoe flew across in front of me and perched. against the background of the Dead Sea. I then flushed a Nightingale which was too curious to hide its identity, coming out to loot me and showing the stronger eyeing, browner-toned upperparts and a soft creamy wash on the throat. These were among the usual suspects - Blackcaps were again everywhere, the odd Palestine Sunbird, Yellow-vented Bulbuls and Laughing Doves providing a very pleasant backdrop.

I was struggling to figure out a phyllosc that turned out to be a Willow Warbler when a Gull-billed Tern cruised past 20 metres in front of me, followed by a pair of Little Egrets and a magnificent Purple Heron, all of them heading north with great determination. The sense of migration was further heightened by a mixed flock of Barn and Red-rumped Swallows and thirteen Sand Martins that stopped to hunt over the hotel grounds before heading on northwards.

Reluctantly I dragged myself away from the seafront, adding a pair of Tristram's Grackles - handsome orange-winged black starlings that are specialists of the rift valley edges - by the pool and headed for the citrus and pomegranate orchard by the main gate. Thrush Nightingales were again easy to see but I was delighted when a Masked Shrike perched close enough to allow a few photos after being far too flighty yesterday.

This was the beginning of an excellent session that delivered a host of new migrants in the next hour or so. Appearing just a few seconds apart two Reed Warbler sp. caused some initial confusion until i realised my eyes had not been playing tricks with me and there was indeed a petite Reed Warbler and a hulking Great Reed Warbler in the same stand of trees. They both eventually gave very good views and the Great Reed was probably my top bird of the morning.

A male Redstart sp. flashed away too fast for a safe identification and somehow contrived to disappear entirely, but three flyover birds - two flocks of altogether 100-odd Spanish Sparrows, a Turtle Dove and a male Black-headed Bunting offered swift compensation and greatly strengthened the sense of vigorous passage.

It was becoming difficult to know where to look, as two Thrush Nighingales chasing each other knocked out a wonderful Rufous Bush Robin, a Spotted Flycatcher was hunting against the garden wall and a tree with lilac-coloured flowers was playing host to an Olivaceous Warbler and a couple of Lesser Whitethroats (of which I saw four at least).

Other bits and pieces in this terrific morning included a new high count of five Fan-tailed Ravens, a flyby from the White-throated Kingfisher and the resident pair of Blackbirds. The final highlight of a great morning of oasis birding was seeing no less that 6 Blackcaps come down to drink at a fountain as it started up for the day.

Cheers
Mike
 

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Many thanks Pete.

Yesterday was rather quieter. I'd gone to bed sick the night before and struggled through a shorter session in which I was almost grateful that there were not more birds about. Once again I started well with a beautiful male Red-backed Shrike in almost the same tree the Hoopoe had graced the day before. I then found a chunky accro that looked somewhat smaller and distinctly greyer than the Great Reed Warbler of the day before, but expert guidance (see here) has confirmed that it was indeed a Great Reed Warbler. I was also pleased to get a couple of shots of a singing Eastern Olivaceous Warbler.

The rest of the morning was rather quiet with lower numbers of Blackcaps and Thrush Nightingales down to just a couple of birds, so I knocked off early, not feeling that I had missed much.

Cheers
Mike
 

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Another gentle morning with the wind a gentle southerly and most migrants presumably heading straight through. A Spotted Flycatcher was in the trees leading down to the sea and a melodious trilling revealed a Graceful Prinia singing on the boundary fence.

Out over the Dead Sea a Little Egret heading north appeared to divert towards the eastern shore, but at almost the ska moment a Northern Sparrowhawk appeared overhead and it promptly returned to its original course. It was a good day of hirundine passage with over 40 Barn Swallows, among them a single Red-rumped Swallow and 20 Sand Martins.And apart from the usual suspects that was it for the morning session.

I did take a brief stroll in the evening and scored at the boundary fence again with a pair of Sand Patridges in the scrubby lot next door and a Collared Dove perched on a lamp postas a good day of hirundine passage with over 40 Barn Swallows, among them a single Red-rumped Swallow and 20 Sand Martins.

I'll have one more brief session tomorrow morning (and hope the wind turns overnight) before heading back to Hong Kong.

Cheers
Mike
 

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Last edited:
29 April

This morning the breeze was blowing gently inshore across the Dead Sea, but before I even found that out I was surprised to see a Red-rumped Swallow land in the tree right outside my room. It was also interesting to figure out that the low buzz I’d heard a couple of mornings pre-dawn was coming from the residentPale Crag Martins, which I never heard calling at any other time of day throughout my stay.

The Graceful Prinia – looking no less scruffy than it had yesterday - was again singing away on its fence, and the requisite number of Blackcaps, sunbirds, bulbuls, doves etc. were all present and correct, albeit with not much else amongst them until a presumed laughing dove flying south just the sea did not look quite right, and the views in my hastily raised bins revealed a very un-dovelike Spur-winged Plover! Having written off the Dead Sea for pretty much any waterbirds this felt like a terrific bonus, but really reflects that I could have done a bit more research, as reference to Ian Andrews’ seminal work, The Birds of the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan, shows that they are common enough here.

The Dead Sea is pretty much free of litter or boats, so I was surprised to see a stationary white line about halfway out. More in hope that expectation I gave it a look and was delighted to discover 40-odd long-necked waterbirds apparently floating on the surface. The distance was too far to confirm in the bins, but the SX50 100x superzoom once again delivered superbly and allowed a clear identification of the flock as 33 Greater Flamingoes! Even if they are generally found in such habitats there seem not to be historical records from here, although I did have one at Aqaba sewage works back in 1991. When the sun came onto them the pink tones in the plumage came through more clearly, even in the bins.

The citrus/pomegranate orchard by the main gate held fewer Blackcaps – maybe six or eight, two Thrush Nightingales again showed – one even let off a little burst of song! - and a Lesser Whitethroat, plus what I now believe to be a family party of five Fan-tailed Ravens. And that was it for the Dead Sea. On the way back I watched a group of ten Steppe Buzzards making their first flight of the day on the ridge above the road - presumably a migrant flock – and another kestrel sp. landing on a telegraph pole with a prey item. The final bird of the trip was a Laughing Dove feeding on the floor of the sleeping area at the transit lounge in Dubai, as I waited for the Hong Kong flight.

In summary this was real conference birding – all birding was around the venue except for the trip to and from the airport - and I barely scratched the surface of what Jordan has to offer. I saw many more species on my previous, much more birding-focused, visit to Jordan in September 2001 and added no new species. Having said that I greatly enjoyed the very real sense of passage, and winkling out a few new species every day, especially as the great majority were birds that I don’t know at all well.



While I thoroughly enjoyed my stay, any potential visitors might bear in mind that the hotel had a few quirks:

  • A security scan “for your safety” also stops guests bringing in outside food - also claimed to be for our safety, but doubtless to protect the revenues of the hotel which charges distinctly “tourist” prices for everything including local staples (£9 for a pint, after tax!). Having said that they missed the chocolate in my laptop bag on check-in and the beef jerky in my day pack no less than six times. I suspect a six-pack of beer or a bottle of scotch was the real target for the search.
  • On my third day the chap on duty tried to stop me bringing my binoculars back in after I’d spent an hour in the citrus orchard – all but directly accusing me of using them for perving at the pool! A firm explanation sufficed, and I was not otherwise bothered as there were plenty of areas to bird away from the pools.
  • There is a small population of cats. One sneaked up on me and rubbed against my legs, depositing a flea that took full advantage!

And finally, given the tensions in this region at present, despite a visible armed security presence at the airport and the highways, I never felt that my safety was threatened.



As usual I’d be very happy to answer any questions through this thread or PM.

Cheers
Mike
 

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Looking back on this report I realise I've missed two of the better birds of the trip - Green Bee-eaters which were hunting along the rivulet just across the road from the hotel on a couple of mornings and a Blackstart was perched on one of the umbrellas on the sunbathing platform close to the edge of the Dead Sea on my first morning.

Cheers
Mike
 
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