National Parks in the north of Thailand, trip reports. (1 Viewer)

Nam Nao national Park



Arrived early afternoon and set up camp in what is an extensive camping area with 4 toilet blocks, old toilets are Thai only and new blocks are Thai and western with good (cold) showers and a disabled toilet and shower.
Foreigner entry is a bit steep at 400b but as we plan to stay 3 or 4 nights it is OK per day.

First afternoon I headed for the nature trail to find the entrance blocked by new buildings being constructed, so climb over the work and head down an easy trail but not a lot to see other than trees and butterflies to take photos of but when the butterflies are as beautiful as :



Paris Peacock

Next morning I headed up the longer trails and decided to do the middle 4.5km trail, again not a lot to see other than where an elephant had slid down the hill and gone over the stream the night before, until I got up to the lookout at the highest point and started down through the pine trees where there were some birds high in the trees. Got my first bird photos a new species for me a Neglected Nuthatch along with others including :



Common Flameback

Afternoon I went for an explore and drove up the 14km road to Suan Son Phu Goom Kha, lots of animal sign, Gaur Deer and Elephant and birds on the road and in the trees at the barrier across the road, as far as you can drive. Plan to come back tomorrow morning when hopefully there will be animals still out.



Next morning a Muntjak ran across the road on the way up and there had been a herd of Elephants feeding along the road but they had gone before we got there, very messy eaters these things. On the way back a deer ran along the road for a way in front of us

Called in at the HQ on the way back and were told there was a big mob of people were expected the next day a Saturday with all the housed booked and a lot of campers coming so we decided to cut our stay down to 3 nights and head for the next destination, also told us the best time for birds is when the trees are in fruit in the spring.



On the last morning I walked about 2 km down the Ban Beak track (4km) which is a couple of km west of the park entrance and wow the place is full of elephants with fresh sign everywhere but they had all moved away from the track before I got there, probably just as well, lots of sign of other animals and more birds than I had seen anywhere else in the park and another new bird species for me an Eurasian Jay.


General

Mains power.

A lot of construction going on making a lot of noise which has scared most of the birds and animals out of the area.

The loop trails are best walked starting from the entrance on the road to the youth camp, from there it is about a kilometer to where the first trail forks off to the left. It is then about another KM through open pine forest to the lookout on the center trail. I did not walk the top trail so cant say where it joined in. Leeches were bad on the bottom part of the trails up the stream but none higher up.

The trails on the south side of the road were the best for both animals and birds. It would be possible to do these trails without paying an entrance fee to the park as there was no check as we went drove past the ranger station on the way to Suan Son Phu Goom Kha and there is no ranger station on the road to the Ban Beak track.

The pines and grass area from the junction of the first trail to the lookout was the best place for birds on the north side of the park.

Two flights of hornbill went over on different days couldn’t get a good look at them but by the sound of the wings they were Great Hornbill

Birds

Eurasian Jay
Neglected Nuthatch
Greater Racket-tailed drongo
Spangled Drongo
Bronzed Drongo
Sooty-headed Bulbul
Large–billed Crow
Black-naped Oriole
Large Cockooshrike
Common Flameback
Blossom-headed Parakeet

Phu Khaio Wildlife Sanctuary

Only 200b entrance this time, much better. A little rain as we arrived so we set up the tent in the Hong Bprachoom (Open sided meeting area) under cover and had a feed then went exploring to work out where to go in the morning.

Heavy fog in the morning made an early start impossible as there was no chance of getting any photos. When the mist had cleared somewhat we headed to a watchtower past a lake where there was an Osprey sitting on a dead tree in the lake, the first bird photo from here. At the watchtower there were several Red Cheeked Bulbul flying around and smaller birds in some bushes.



Red-cheeked Bulbul

We then went for a drive along what is called a loop track but soon came to fallen trees across the road, walking from there we did not get far before more fallen trees so turned back to camp where there was a Crimson Sunbird flitting around some flowers, with a fair bit of patience I managed to get a reasonable photo of this small bird.



Crimson Sunbird

In the afternoon I went up a track alongside a lake close to the Royal residence to find leeches galore but there were also birds, Gibbons and a species of monkey ( Pig-tailed Macaque) I haven’t seen before so I persevered although picking leeches off the boots and pants before they could get to flesh was a full time job. This track is part of what is called the Queens Loop track which circles the Royal residence.



Pig-tailed Macaque, the see no evil one ?

It is possible to follow the road past accommodation and drive to a dam where there is a pump shed, (4WD) in the wet, this is part of the Queens Loop (other end).
I did this the next morning after first having a look at what I thought was the track to Mon Lake, if it was it hasn’t been used for some time by other than deer and elephants. Several Pied Hornbill flew past me and I managed to get a photo of a small warbler.

I then walked the nature trail past a big fig tree on to a narrow walkway across a swamp this branched in the middle with the branches going either side of a lake on to the main road, a bit of pig sign on this track but nothing worth taking a photo of until I got back on the road where there was a Common Kingfisher on a dead tree and a Grey Heron on an the remains of an old shack.



Grey Heron

Rain in the afternoon so I hung around camp getting some bird photos between showers. Rain most of the night and next day but managed to get some photos in the few brief clear periods.

General

Lots of deer about Sambar, Hog Deer and Muntjak mostly on the open grass area but a few around the camp area with one particularly cheeky Sambar hind that we were told would raid camps and eat anything, this proved to be true as it ate my soap.



Common Muntjak

Got brief glimpses of 2 small flocks of Pied Hornbill but no photos unfortunately.

In the mornings there were a lot of birds in the camping area, White-crested Laughingthrush, Red-billed Blue Magpie predominant. A lot of Red-eared Bulbul present, these birds which are mostly seen in cages are also in Tat Mok NP which is part of the same forest complex.

A place well worth the visit in spite of the rain.

Birds

Arctic Warbler
Asian Fairy Bluebird
Black-shouldred Kite
Blyth’s Pipit
Brown Shrike
Chinese Pond Heron
Common Kingfisher
Crested Bulbul
Crimson Sunbird
Eastern Bushchat
Eurasian Jay
Greater Coucal
Greater Flameback
Grey Bushchat
Grey Heron
Green-billed Malkoha
Grey-headed Lapwing
Hooded Oriole
Large Cuckooshrike
Large-billed Crow
Lesser Yellownape
Osprey
Red Junglefowl
Red-billed Blue Magpie
Red-eared Bulbul
Simese Fireback
Spotted Dove
White-crested Laughingthrush

Phu Hin Rong Kla National Park

Access is up a steep winding road through what must be one of the most difficult farming areas in the country with steep fields of cabbages, pineapples and corn with the occasional patch of dry land rice among large and small boulders. Entrance fee is a steep 500b for foreigners and the whole place is tourist orientated.

Main attractions are rock fields and the old communist HQ which is what most of the selfie takers go to see. There are 2 large restaurants and gift shops and a small museum.



One of the rock fields

We set up our tent under one of 2 large covered areas with attached kitchens. Toilets are good with both western and Thai toilets and good showers, cold water as usual, mains power.

Really only 2 places to go other than the camping area which is large with lots of tents set up waiting for occupants with several houses for rent
We walked round the rock fields in scattered rain but only saw a few bird species and not many of them.



Cliff sign

Only ended up staying 2 nights as five truck loads of Uni students arrived and wanted to use the area we were camped in for a cooking and dining area, seems they had booked the place and were not happy we were there.



Grey Wagtail

Birds

2 Barred Warbler
Blue Rock Thrush
Large-billed Crow
Flavescent Bulbul
Black Drongo
Grey Wagtail
White Wagtail
Grey-backed Shrike
Sooty-headed Bulbul
Spotted Dove
Olive-backed Pipit
House Martin

Thank you for an excellent trip report.
As a prospective visitor, it is not possible to get similar birding oriented ground truth from any other site.
Well done, and well done BF!

Phu Soi Dao National Park

Access is through a winding narrow road up a long valley where the main cash crop is Pineapples the nature of the road makes for a slow trip. Entrance fee is 200b for foreigners 40b for Thai.



Pineapple fields

Several good camping areas with the best toilets in camp ground 3 where we set up camp. The whole place is surrounded by heavy forest with few access points, the main one is at a waterfall a kilometer up the road from the camp a fee is charged for access but when I walked up the road one morning the ranger on duty asked if I was camped and when I said yes told me to go ahead no charge. There is a restaurant and small shop selling snacks and gifts.



Entrance to waterfall and trek.

From the waterfall there is a track that leads to a high point which gives the park its name Phu Soi Dao which roughly translated means “Cliff where you can hold the stars”. This is a 8.5KM trek in for an overnight stay, porters are on hand to carry your gear no doubt for a fee, I didn’t ask as I was not intending to do the trek or stay.



The only other access I found was an old road starting at the youth camp that led up the water supply pipeline. This is pretty overgrown with fallen bamboo so much so that I did not get to the water source before the track became very blocked. There has been a die-off of large bamboo in the area and the dead trunks have fallen everywhere.

There is a road about 500m up the main road from the waterfall that I suspect in an access road to the top of the waterfall trail, it is concreted most of the way and is very steep 30 degrees plus in places. I struggled up this road to where it follows a ridge top but as I had not started till 1pm it was getting late by then so I didn’t follow to the end, a bit of wild pig sign and a lot of bird activity up there and I would like to get up there again starting early and spending the whole day but that will have to wait for another time.

The whole place has an ambiance that I liked it has mains power and internet access but no phone coverage, no English is spoken.

The lack of access into the forest means it is well protected as are its residents which appear to be mainly birds and small mammals as I saw no indication of larger animals other than pigs although they could survive in remoter parts for this park is part of a quite large area of forest along the Lao border that includes our next stop Phu Suan Sai NP.



Blue-throated barbet

Most people that visit there go for the trek up the waterfall trail for an overnight camp we were told that there were about 60 people up there when we arrived on a Saturday but probably less on weekdays.
I saw a Forktail in the waterfall stream but failed to get a photo.

Birds

Blue-throated Barbet
Grey-headed Canary Flycatcher
Olive-backed Pipit
Crested Bulbul
Asian-brown Flycatcher
Sooty-headed Bulbul
Grey Wagtail
White Wagtail
Spangled Drongo

Phu Suan Sai National Park



Only about 50KM of narrow winding road from Phu Soi Dao and 200b for entry. This park is known as a bird watching site and the place looks well kept with several camping areas and houses for rent. There is a small shop that sells snacks and drinks and a restaurant that does basic Thai Food.

We set up camp in camp ground No1 close to the best toilet block. Then wandered around and found small Black-throated Sunbirds and Oriental White Eyes feeding on a flowering bush opposite the restaurant.



Black-throated Sunbird, terrible things to try to get a photo of so small and never still for more than 2 or 3 seconds


We then drove up the road past a hill tribe village just to see what we could see. Next morning after a windy night I walked up the road to the second bridge

There is a bird watching trail and a nature trail as well as a couple of hides set up for birding. I didn’t bother with either trail for with the help of a new friend I found the 2 hides, one is set up where Blue-naped Pita have been seen, with meal worms being fed out. I sat there for a time but no birds appeared.

The other is at a bird bathing spot and this hide proved to deliver some amazing sights when I visited it in the evening and on the next two evenings with Ying. At times there were at least 10 species of small birds bathing and drinking at the same time with Babblers being prominent. This gave a problem as to where to point the camera as some of these birds were species that are not easy to find anywhere let alone photograph, Birds like Golden Babbler, Rufous-fronted Babbler, Red-billed Scimitar Babbler and the large Collared Babbler.



Oriental White-eye.

I spent most of the time there walking or driving the road or at the hides, at a parking spot just before the second bridge there is a big flame tree that was attracting a number of birds including Orange-bellied Leafbirds, the only leafbird species I had not seen before. There is also another of these trees at the second bridge but for some reason it doesn’t seem to have the same attraction.



Orange-bellied Lefbird.

The road down from the camp ground seemed to have the most bird activity early in the morning but also the most traffic with staff going to work. Flowering bushes across the road from the camp ground and across the road from the restaurant were attracting small birds but it needed persistence and patience to get photos.

A great place for birds and a place I hope to include in my itinerary on future trips to the north.

Birds

Orange-bellied Leafbirds
Blue-winged Leafbird
Ashy Drongo
Asian Brown Flycatcher
Black-naped Monarch
Black-throated Sunbird
Blue-throated Barbet
Bronzed Drongo
Brown-cheeked Fulvetta
Collard Babbler
Crested Bulbul
Oriental White Eye
Emerald Dove
Flavescent Bulbul
Golden Babbler
Grey-backed Shrike
Grey-eyed Bulbul
Grey-throated Babbler
Yellow-bellied Warbler
Rufous-collared Babbler
Spangled Drongo
Lessor Shortwing
Olive-backed Sunbird
Oriental Magpie Robin
Puff-throated Bulbul
Pinstripe Tit Babbler
Streaked Spiderhunter
Tickell’s Blue Flycatcher
White-bellied Epornis
White-throated Fantail
Siberian Blue Robin

Thung Salaeng Luang

Not impressed, Camp area on the other side of the Keck River with poor toilets up above with difficult if not dangerous (at night) access and a ford cum bridge over the river that would be impassable should the river rise so we headed up to the HQ area where there was supposed to be a camp site and put up the tent for the night across the road from a new toilet block with the intention of going to the south entrance of the park the next morning, only paid for the night camping no entrance fee. We were told by the staff at the HQ that few people stay for more than one night and I can see why.

60km down the road we arrived at the south entrance to be told the entrance fee for foreigners was 500b. Mack gern bai ( to much) says I, no thank you we will give it a miss and move on to Tat Mok the next and last park on our list.
....................................................................................................

Tat Mok National Park

Part of the same forest complex as Nam Nao NP and Phu Khaio WS which we had already visited but much different from either as it is steep and mountainous, a road runs through the park for 21km to access to a waterfall and nature trail. Entrance fee 100b, that’s better, Camp site is 12km up the road into the forest where there are 2 camp sites and a ranger station.



Camp ground by the stream.

We set up our tent in a covered area close to good toilets, western and Thai, just before a heavy shower of rain. When the rain had cleared I went for a walk up the road towards a waterfall for a KM or so seeing plenty of small birds and getting a few photos.



Shikra.

Next morning light rain started just before daylight and was to persist for most of the day I got in a short walk up the road in the morning and drove to the start of the waterfall, nature trail later but did not attempt the trail as there was an uninviting stream crossing to negotiate, might try it later we will see.




Entry to Lan Chong Dao.

Went back down the road to a nature trail sign and drove up to what was once the park HQ and farther on to the start of the trail to Lan Chom Dao. Did not attempt to drive it at that stage as there was still rain around and the dirt track was very wet. Noted a side road to a conservation area, also a dirt road, for future reference.

Better weather today and after a walk up the road had a go at driving into the conservation area but didn’t get very far before stopping and walking part of the way without getting to the end of the road. Had another go the next morning, parked at the same place and walked to the nursery area where there will be access to forest trails. There were people working at the nursery, a tractor on the track and an armed patrol passed me on the back of a pickup.



Moustached Barbet.

Went up the road to Lan Chom Dao and what a great view at the end so back to camp for Ying

In the afternoon I went up to the visitor accommodation where there were birds feeding on fruiting trees and Striated Swallows flying in and out from under one of the buildings, seems they are roosting under there, a sheltered spot out of the weather and a probable nesting site although that species has never been confirmed to nest there, something anyone keen on extending bird knowledge could look for at nesting time.

General
Power in the covered area we stayed in and WIFI at the visitor center, place is clean and well maintained with friendly helpful staff but no English spoken. Free bikes to ride while you are there.



Blue Rock Thrush

A place well worth visiting

Birds

Oriental Turtle Dove
Striated Swallow
Golden-fronted Leafbird
Asian Fairy Bluebird
Sooty-headed Bulbul
Red eared Bulbul
Ashy Drongo
Black-naped Oriole
Shikra
Little Spiderhunter
Asian Brown Flycatcher
Eastern Stonechat
Pinstripe Tit Babbler
Puff-throated Babbler
Crested bulbul
2 Barred Warbler
Grey-throated Babbler
Grey-headed canary Flycatcher
White-throated Kingfisher
Moustached Barbet
Chestnut-headed Bee Eater
Flavescent Bulbul
Stripe-throated Bulbul
Bronzed Drongo
Common Lora
Tickell’s Blue Flycatcher
Taica Flycatcher
Blue-winged Leafbird
Blue Rock Thrush
Green-billed Malkoha
Streak-eared Bulbul

Thats all for that trip we will be on the road again in 2 days on Thursday 24th Nov to visit another 6 national parks in the north west of Thailand, back before Xmas with more reports.

Robby

Keep up the good work!

Note.
I have decided to put dates on these reports as some of the information on parks is way out of date so much so that I have wondered in some cases if I am in the same place.

Khlong Wang Chao national park 23-26 November 2016.



Entry 200b spacious camping grounds on both sides of the river with one toilet block on either side with western and Thai toilets and cold showers, several houses for rent on both sides of the river, no vehicle access to the far side only a swing bridge. The whole place is well kept and clean. On mains power with the place lit up at night and plenty of plugs for charging batteries.




Indian Rollar

Road goes for around 35km up through both forest and agricultural land to a waterfall and research center where there are 3 chalets and a camping ground which looks to be a great place to camp although the road leaves something to be desired, definitely not suitable for a car, pickup or RTV needed preferably 4WD and not for a faint hearted driver.



Local version of a two lane highway with log bridge.

There are 3 villages up the road with 2 schools and the last village has a health clinic, school and 3 small shops as well as several new looking houses although most of the other houses are built of bamboo.

There is a waterfall a few KM up the road from the camping area it is a short walk down from a parking area, no bird activity there at all. Farther up the road gets within sight of the river and I went down to the river and walked down stream a bit where there was buffalo wallowing in the river but no birds unfortunately.



Domestic Water Buffalo

The most birds I saw were up around the visitor center and helicopter pad in the morning and on a fruiting tree by the swing bridge, not a lot of birdlife but a very pleasant place to spend a few days.



Yellow-vented Flowerpecker

General
This park is the northern end of the western forest complex with the accessible part well populated with villages along the road. It is steep and mountainous and should hold animals in the more remote parts.

Birds
Asian Brown Flycatcher
Black Drongo
Black-naped Oriole
Common Myna
Coppersmith Barbet
Black Crested Bulbul
Greater Racket-tailed Drongo
Hill Myna
Indian Rollar
Liniated Barbet
Spangled Drongo
Yellow-vented Flowerpecker

Lan Sang national Park 27-30 November 2016.



Entry 200b another clean and well-kept park with good toilets. After driving up to the visitor center close to the bottom waterfall which is as far as you can drive we set up camp by a toilet block close to the entry gate then I had a walk down a nature path from the waterfall to the youth camp, a branch off this trail to the right is supposed to continue on to a bridge over the stream close to our camp however the bridge has been washed out in floods and the track is almost non-existent.



Thick-billed Green Pigeon.

First morning it started to rain at 5am and continued for an hour and a half so no early start. It cleared to a misty overcast morning so I headed up the track to the waterfalls, this is an easy to follow popular track up a steep stream which levels out to a small basin after the Pa Noi waterfall. The track to the top waterfall heads up the hill before this basin is reached so to find it you must continue on up the stream. There has been a recent flood in the stream and a lot of debris has come down, there was a little animal sign in the basin area but the morning rain had washed most of it out. There is said to be Serow in the park so it is possible they may be in that area, also a bit of bird activity so worth having a look again on a better day.



Hainan Blue Flycatcher

On the second day instead of attempting to find the track off the nature trail I Went up a small stream which the old track should cross and followed old animal tracks, no fresh sign but a few old tracks still visible. A lot of bird activity up there but mostly in the canopy of high trees and with an understory of bamboo it was almost impossible to see anything and even harder to get photos. I did get a couple of photos of woodpeckers which were with a mixed flock including drongos and laughingthrush.

Day 3 I headed up the waterfalls again on another overcast day, this time I planned to go right to the top and got there no problem. The track leaves the stream about a kilometer and a half up and goes up to a ridge where there are high altitude trees and grasses as well as a few pine trees. It then sidles around above the stream to the Pha Te Waterfall. There was a flock of Spangled Drongos on the way up but again almost impossible to get photos or see if there were other birds with them.



Pha Ta Waterfall.

General

Mains power, phone and internet access, plenty of lighting and plugs for charging batteries and connecting my laptop, Hot water in the showers although the heater in the men’s toilet did not work, I showered in the woman’s on the nights we were the only ones camping. The usual houses for rent and there is a restaurant 2km down the road from the visitor center and another by the waterfall parking area, never ate at either so can’t say what the food is like, also a gift, snack, shop at the visitor center. It is also possible to camp close to the waterfall across the road from the visitor center. Another pleasant place, the hot water showers are real nice after cold water everywhere else.



Black-headed Bulbul

Birds

Black-headed Bulbul
Black-crested Bulbul
Black-naped Monarch
Black-naped Oriole
Coppersmith Barbet
Golden-fronted Leafbird
Greater Yellownape
Grey Wagtail
Hainan Blue Flycatcher
Hill Myna
Large-billed Crow
Olive-backed Sunbird
Spangled Drongo
Thick-billed Green Pigeon

Mae Moei NP



Entry 200B, good looking camping ground with individual bays each with water and lighting and power points that were not working, good toilets with western and Thai toilets, cold water showers and disabled toilets. Was late when we arrived so set up camp ate and into bed.

Next morning I walked up the road a short way till it started to dive downhill and as I didn’t feel like waking up again I headed back to another camping ground above the road where there were birds in some trees and I managed to get a couple of photos but nothing exotic.



Grey-eyed Bulbul

Ying wanted to visit a King project at the end of one of the branch roads so we set off up what started off as a good road where a lot of work is being done. The road which is being upgraded and sealed up to the first village got progressively worse the farther past that village we went, after passing through several villages and steep farmed areas 44km later we arrived where they are growing non-traditional crops in an attempt to get the farmers to change to higher value crops for the corn they now grow barely makes a profit for what is a hell of a lot of hard work on steep country. A slow trip and another late arrival back in camp.



Pale-blue Flycatcher

Next morning I was on my own to explore some of the places we had seen on the trip up the road, first stop was a lookout at around 15km from camp. I arrived just before a family with twins and a van load of chattering tourists so no birds to be seen. Down the road at 11km from camp there is a sign in Thai saying it is a place where birds can be seen with another about a kilometer farther down. This is where an uncommon bird is said to be present the Rufous-headed Parrotbill but it didn’t put in an appearance for me. I did see a number of other species and got photos of 2 that are new to me.



In the afternoon Ying wanted to go to the first village up the road to look for something which turned out to be sold out, we then went for a walk to a waterfall.



Vernal Hanging Parrot

Next day I went back to the bird signs where I concentrated my efforts for most of the rest of our stay. There is a lot of bird activity around that part of the road which is strange considering the amount of traffic which creates a lot of noise and dust. With many square KM’s of undisturbed forest to forage in the birds have plenty of scope and every reason to avoid the road.
There is a steep track goes up the hill from the top camping area and I climbed up just to see where it went, at the top there is a Chedi and a place where a monk stays but he wasn’t at home when I visited, on the last afternoon I walked about a kilometer up the nature trail without seeing much.

General

Well cared for camping area and clean new toilets with wheelchair access and the usual houses to rent, a lot of dogs around so food security important. Power is from solar panel supplemented by a generator from dark till 9.30. Food is available and as with most parks no English is spoken and farther up the road very little Thai also for the hill tribe people have their own language(s). The kids who have been to school speak Thai but use their own language at home. This park is a long way from anywhere so a full tank of fuel is essential before you get there. A place well worth the visit and more time than we spent there with 4 new bird species for me and many others as well although that special bird was not to be found.

Birds

2 Barred Warbler
Ashy Minivet
Ashy Drongo
Bar-winged Flycatchershrike
Black-crested Bulbul
Black-naped Oriole
Bronzed Drongo
Brown-cheeked Fulvetta
Chestnut-flanked White-eye
Common Green Magpie
Eastern-crowned Warbler
Flavescent Bulbul
Greater Racket-tailed Drongo
Grey Wagtail
Grey-eyed Bulbul
Pale-blue Flycatcher
Pied Bushchat
Spangled Drongo
Streaked Spiderhunter
Vernal Hanging Parrot
White-bellied Epornis
Yellow-vented Flowerpecker

After a slight technical hitch we arrived just on dark and set up the tent for the night. Next morning dawned with a heavy mist down to bootlace level just as well for nobody could see that it looked like the tent had been pitched by a drunk so after straightening it up we set up the rest of the camp. By that time the mist had lifted and I went for an explore around the camp area.

I then drove up a road through the park that is supposed to go right through to the Salawin River which is the border with Burma but unless there is another road it would not be possible to go that far on the road from the camp area. I drove up to a small village on a branch road about 18km up the road then carried on up the main road till the road deteriorated to a rutted track and after a close encounter with a buffalo that left a dent in a back door I turned around and headed back stopping at a couple of places where I heard bird calls.



Golden-fronted Leafbird.

Next morning I again drove up the road which is in the process of being graded and is very dusty. I stopped at about 6km where the road levels off on a ridge top where I had heard some birds the day before, yes there were birds there and I got my first photos. There are several tracks branching off the road leading to villages deep in the forest, I went about 2 kilometers down one which is on a long ridge without coming to any habitation but it was obvious someone lived farther down for there were motorbike tracks. These people will live down in the gullies where there is water which is well away from the road in isolated places.



Olive-backed Pipit

On the last morning before packing up I walked up the nature trail, after an initial steep climb it was an easy enough track both to follow and to walk. A fair bit of bird life with Drongos flying around and woodpeckers easy to hear, I managed to get photos of Black-headed Woodpeckers and a Crested Serpent Eagle, a bit of pig sign so there are animals about.



Black-headed Woodpecker.

General.

Another well cared for camping and HQ area with new toilets, western and Thai, a disabled toilet and shower cold water again unfortunately.

Camp ground is beside a lake where a flock of birds came down to drink one afternoon. They achieved this by diving into the water then flying up to a handy tree. I arrived back at camp in time to see the tail end this display but had little luck in getting good photos however Ying did get some photos of them on the wing from which I identified them as Common Woodshrike.

Dogs are present hoping for handouts and are not averse to attempting to steal food at night

Birds.

Ashy Drongo
Black Drongo
Black-headed Woodpecker
Black-hooded Oriole
Crested Serpent Eagle
Eurasian Jay
Golden-fronted Leafbird
Greater Racket-tailed Drongo
Olive-backed Pipit
Large Cuckooshrike
Common Woodshrike

Entry 100b.The road in to this park may deter some for it is a few hundred meters of rough dirt road but for birds it was to prove well worth the effort. Small camping ground a couple of houses for rent and what they call the Log Cabin which has 4 bedrooms with 3 beds in each and a large common area, each bedroom has its own western style toilet. Outside is a small toilet and shower block again western style.

Had a bit of a wander round after setting up camp and worked out where to look the next day which dawned cold and overcast meaning the birds didn’t appear till fairly late but when they did there were plenty of them and over 20 different species including both male and female of the beautiful Scarlet Minivet.



Scarlet Minivet, male



Female

Best places for birds were in front of the rental houses looking down past the HQ building and down the road to the staff accommodation. I never left the camp ground area that morning and got photos of 19 different species. Afternoon I went for a walk or climb round the Nature Trail which went up through pine trees and then round and down a steep gully, a few birds around but difficult to get photos.



Grey Bushchat, female

There were people staying overnight in the rental houses and a group in 3 of the rooms of the Log Cabin that night so next day which was cold again, well cold by Thai standards at 15c, the birds didn’t put in an appearance in the same numbers but I did manage to get another 3 species.

Afternoon I went for a drive up the road to Mae-Ab Waterfall which is located 6 kilometers from the National Park’s office. Turn right on leaving the park road on to Rte. 1270 drive until reaching Baan Mae-Ab and then take a branch road on the left which is marked by a sign. This is a steep concrete road which branches at some houses, take the right branch which soon deteriorates into a dirt road which would be impassable in the wet, at another branch go left to a small bridge over the waterfall stream there is a small place to park beside the stream and It is a further few hundred meters walk to the Waterfall. Got a photo of a Slaty-backed Forktail in the stream which made the trip worthwhile for me.



Slaty-backed Forktail

Last morning I again looked down from in front of the rental houses then around the camp ground while packing up and got shots of both male and female Scarlet Minivet and a Banded Bay Cuckoo, a new species for me.

General

This would have to be the easiest place I have been to so far to see a good variety and number of birds, it would be a great place for someone who is less mobile for it is possible to sit in one or two places and see a great variety of bird species. No problem with dogs or any other camp raiders and no large animals in this part of the park.

Birds

Ashy Bulbul
Asian Brown Flycatcher
Banded Bay Cuckoo
Bar-winged Flycatcher shrike
Black-crested Bulbul
Blue-throated Barbet
Bronzed Drongo
Brown Shrike
Brown-cheeked Fulvetta
Common Lora
Emerald Cuckoo
Green-billed Malkoha
Grey-eyed Bulbul
Indochinese Cuckooshrike
Little Pied Flycatcher
Magpie Robin
Olive-backed Pipit
Rosy Minivet
Scarlet Minivet
Slaty-backed Forktail
Slender-billed Oriole
Sooty-headed Bulbul
Streaked Spiderhunter
Stripe-breasted Woodpecker
Verditer Flycatcher
Grey Bushchat

To Doi Inthanon NP 12/12/16



Arrived early afternoon on a Monday which was a holiday, waved through the checkpoint and told to pay at the HQ where they only wanted payment for the nights we camped and the vehicle , in the camp ground there is mostly unoccupied tents everywhere and shops selling about everything you could want, very commercial and people milling about.. Setup camp in what is the caravan area which has separate bays with power, lights and water, toilets across the road have both western and Thai style toilets with hot water in the wheelchair toilet (don’t tell the babbling mob).

Set off to do a bit of exploring first off up the road from camp ground to the accommodation then for a couple of kilometers up the road to the Karan Village then back down the main road to the checkpoint where I was asked for the tickets they didn’t give us on the way in. Turned back a short distance up the summit road and walked a short distance up a dirt road 4.5 kilometers from the camp, a place that needs farther exploration.



Blue-winged Leafbird, female.

Next day I went back down the road we had come up to the Huai Sai Luang and Mae Pan Waterfalls. First I had a look at the Huai sai Luang fall which is only about 50 meters from a parking place, nothing of interest there but when I walked back to the road there were flocks of Scarlet Minivet in the trees over the road. The parking place for the Mae Pan Waterfall is about 300 meters farther up a narrow road then there is another 500 meters walk down a not very good track to the fall. A bit of birdlife on the way down and 2 species of Redstart in the stream unfortunately I only got photos of a Plumbeous Redstart and missed out on a White-capped Water redstart.



Plumbeous Redstart, female

It was still early so I decided to have a look at the summit where there were hundreds of cars and what looked like thousands of people milling about, to many people for me so I turned around without getting out of the car and headed back down to the to the road I had prospected yesterday. I drove to the end where there is what appears to be a ranger station and had a wander around seeing very little. There is a branch road heading up hill from this road and I parked close to the fork and walked up the branch which leads to what was once cultivated land and continues for some way. Quite a bit of bird-life up there and I got my first photos of White-headed Bulbul. When I got back to the car there was a mixed flock of birds moving fast high in the trees, saw Maroon Oriole and Long-tailed Broadbill but the only birds that would stay still for a photo were Drongos.



Slaty-backed Forktail.

Day the next I went on down the main road towards Chaing Mai to the Wachirathon Waterfall first thing in the morning to beat the sightseers. First bird I saw was a Slaty-backed Forktail then a male Plumbeous Redstart then a Grey wagtail and Blue-whistling Thrush. The tourists had then started to arrive so I headed back to the previous days road seeing more birds including White-headed Bulbul and an uncommon Mrs Goulds Sunbird.

Back to camp for lunch then a look at what is called a nature trail but a sign said it could only be walked with a local guide no doubt for a price so I gave that a miss and wandered around close to camp where I got photos of more birds.



Grey-cheeked Fulvetta.

Next day it was back to the dirt road and along the fork that goes to the reverting once cultivated land getting photos of more birds on the way.

General

We were not asked for an entrance fee when we entered from the Mae Chaem (West, check point 2) side but when I exited there they wanted to see the tickets, we only had camping tickets but they let me go through. It would appear that if you have not paid an entry fee you are supposed to pay when you leave. When we left the park by the East entrance (check point 1 Chaing Mai side) we expected to pay an entry (exit) fee but were waved through. Result we did not pay an entry fee. Conclusion, an entry fee is charged when you enter from the West and if you have not paid an entry fee is charged when you exit in the East.

For what little its worth this is what I would do if I were to visit this park again.

Approach the park from the Mea Chaem or western side and spend 2 or 3 nights at the camp ground at Huai Sai Luang Waterfall, to stay there you don’t enter the park at the second checkpoint. In the morning there should be lots of birds in the trees around the camping area including flocks of Minivet. Head up the road to the parking area for the Mae Pan Waterfall and walk down to the waterfall, there should be birds on the way down and below the fall Redstarts, both Plumbeous and White-capped, and possibly Forktail in the stream.

Next day early, like 4.30 to 5am, head for the summit, to get there I don’t have to pass a checkpoint and as the checkpoint sign says it opens at 6am I should be able to beat the main influx of tourists who have been staying in the park or coming in from the east. Next morning pack up and enter the second checkpoint and camp at the caravan area at HQ area camping ground for another 2 or 3 nights. Then back to the dirt road at 34.5 KM which is probably the best bet for getting away from the crowds and seeing a good range of birds. In the evenings there should be birds in the trees between the camping area and the rental houses so I would have a wandering up the road.

In the morning head back to the dirt road park at the bottom and walk up, there is a clear area on the right about a hundred meters up where I will be able to look out at some tall trees where birds often perch early in the morning. Farther up the road take the left branch and follow as far as I want. I should start to see birds when I get to the first pine trees then farther on there is a tall tree down on the right where birds like to perch, I should see White-headed Bulbul there as well as other birds. Carrying on down the road there is a dip into a sort of gully where birds seem to congregate, I would stop there and watch, the main visitor will be Flavescent Bulbul but other more desirable species like Mrs Goulds Sunbirds and Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babbler may appear. From there the road rises to the start of forest then heads downhill into the forest and up to me how far I feel like walking.
I would also have a look for what is called ‘the jeep track’ which I failed to find, but then I didn’t ask.

On the way home head out the other way towards Chaing mai and stop at Wachirathon Waterfall where I should see Forktail and Redstart.

Birds

Crested Goshawk
Ashy Bulbul
Ashy Drongo
Asian Brown Flycatcher
Black Bulbul
Black-crested Bulbul
Blue Whistling Thrush
Bronzed Drongo
Emerald Cuckoo
Flavescent Bulbul
Golden-throated Barbet
Grey Wagtail
Grey-backed Shrike
Grey-cheeked Fulvetta
Grey-chinned Minivet
Mrs Goulds Sunbird
Olive-backed Pipit
Oriental Turtle Dove
Pinstripe Tit Babbler
Plumbeous Redstart
Rosy Minivet
Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babbler
Scarlet Minivet
Slaty-backed Forktail
Sooty-headed Bulbul
Striated Yuhina
Verditer Flycatcher
White-bellied Green Pigeon
White-headed Bulbul
Yellow-cheeked Tit

Ramkhamhaeng National Park



We included this park as a break in the long trip home and only stayed for 2 nights, it is mainly known as a place where it is possible to climb and camp overnight on top of a hill (mountain to those who have never seen a real one) and on weekends there are a large number of people who camp up there, about 1000 on the Saturday when we were there and we were told 1700 the long weekend before. When we arrived there was a very noisy group of school children in the youth camp area so we set up out tent as far away from them as possible in a Sala close to the staff accommodation.



Banded Broadbill.

Next morning I had a wander around first to a small lake with an island in the middle then to where I could hear birds in tall trees close to the staff houses, they sounded like parakeets but no way could I see them instead I got some good photos of a Banded Broadbill an emerald Cuckoo and a Vernal Hanging Parrot.



Common Flameback.

Afternoon the lady boss wanted to go to the Sukhothai Historic Park which is at the north-east end of the park, after we had been to the historic park here was still time in the afternoon for a look at a parking spot about half way from the entrance gate to the camp ground, there I found a monk had a tent by a stream and on the other side of the stream there were lots of tracks through the forest, birds in there as well so I followed a track which eventually led me back to the road.



Part of the big temple at the historic park.

Next morning it was pack up early for the long trip home.

General

Entry fee 200b, this park is in a convenient place for an overnight or longer stop to break up what is about a 600 km trip from northern parks to our home or Bangkok, I will include it in future trips and may then climb the hill as there are probably different higher altitude birds to be seen.

Birds

Asian Fairy Bluebird
Banded Broadbill
Barwinged-flycatcher Shrike
Chinese Pond Heron
Common Flameback
Emerald Cuckoo
Hill Myna
Vernal Hanging Parrot

Till Later

That was the last port of call for that trip, we plan to leave again on the 7 February for a trip taking in 13 national parks in the north right up to Burma border. Some of these parks have no information at all on the birds that may be there but looking at the 'book' there is huge potential for species that are unlikely to be seen elsewhere.
More reports when we get back home around 20 March.

Robby

Nice report, Thailand seems a top country for bird watching.
I never been there for bird watching, only for diving.

How is this area in February and March, is hot and humid or still ok ?

It is indeed with over 1000 species recorded and the country being a couple of thousand KM long there is quite a range of habitats.

Feb-March is the tail end of the cold season although cold is only relative for it is still mostly 30c + on sunny days with night time temps in the north down to 15 or less, even frost on some of the high mountains.

Also a good time as the winter visitors are still around and the locals are starting to nest. Chose your places to visit and you can see a large number of species.

There are several bird guides that will take you to productive places, myself I prefer to do my own thing and prospect places that are not known bird spots as well as the known places.

A note. I only count species that I get an identifiable photo of so anyone with a scope or binoculars and counting what is seen gets a far higher species count than I do.

Robby

Before I post anything from our latest trip I must make it clear that I only record species that I get a recognisable photo of and therefor see many more species than on the lists I post.

Our trip started on on the 7th February and we had planned on camping at 13 spots first up was :



Mae Ngao NP which is the same forest and north of Mae Moei NP on road 105 north of Mae Sot. At the gate we were told no charge and camp anywhere, camp ground is along the river which gives the park its name, toilets are nothing flash but servisable.

Next morning I had a wander round till Ying got ready to go exploring (driving) up some of the roads that lead into the interior. These roads are mostly rough dirt roads and some go up to 20km up the hills. The whole place is populated with hill tribe villages with a lot of the hillsides cleared for agriculture which means there is not a lot of the original forest left, what there is is mostly teak and other disideous trees with a bit of evergreen forest in some of the gullies.



Long-tailed Shrike

We went to the end of the first road to a village then had a go at the second road which was very rough and not worth the effort, the third road led to another village where a woman was weaving. Ying lept out to have a look while I turned around, woman being what they are she ended up buying hand woven cloth and shirts, so that’s why she brought an empty bag.



On the way back down the bird of the day posed beautifully for photos, a not often seen White-rumped Falconet. Most of the other birds seen were round the camping ground particularly on two flowering trees.



Female White-rumped Falconet

Next 2 mornings there was a heavy fog which made looking for birds difficult but I still managed to get a few photos.

An interesting first stop that has little original forest left what there is is mostly Teak and other dry disideous species, sad to see so much burnt and in agriculture, the term I think is modified but destroyed would be closer to the truth. Many of the people there live in very remote places in small villages, some have motorbikes some do not, they have their own language and only the young ones who have been to school speak Thai.
There are some solar panels and satalite TV dishes in places but otherwise no power or gas with cooking done on wood fires. We were told that it is the girls who must propose marriage and they are the ones to pay Sin sod (Dowry), one lady with 3 sons said it was great for boys are profit.

I suspect these people will gradually move out of the forests as the old ones die off and the young see the outside world and no longer want to do the backbreaking work of farming the steep hillsides this will take a generation or two and there will still be the odd ones hanging on but the forests will then be able to start regenerating.

Birds

White Wagtail
Grey Wagtail
Greater Flameback
White-rumped Falconet
Black-caped kingfisher
White-throated Kingfisher
Indian Rollar
Hill Myna
Black-crested Bulbul
Chestnut –headed Bee Eater
Greater-necklaced Laughingthrush
Greater Racket-tailed Drongo
Blue-winged Leafbird
Ashy Drongo
Chestnut-tailed Starling
Olive-backed Pipit
Long-tailed Shrike

Next on our list was Nam Tok Mae Surin National Park which is a long park with 2 main access points the waterfall the park is named after in the south and the HQ in the north close to the town of Mae Hong Sot.

Nam Tok Mae Surin NP

Although it the same park I will separate the waterfall area from the HQ area for they are about 100km apart by road.I will do this in 2 posts so I can get in more than 5 photos.

Waterfall



Blue-throated Barbet

Arrived just on dark and set up the tent, will finish the rest of the camp in the morning.



Male Blue-winged Leafbird

After setting up the camp I had a wander round the camp ground which is quite spacious and empty other than us, I then had a look at the waterfall from the lookouts and round the camp ground although there is only a small area there were plenty of birds about. Barbets were calling constantly all day and Gibbons joined the chorus. I read somewhere that the presence of Gibbons signifies a healthy forest and the number of birds here would also indicate that. The forest is mostly evergreen with some Teak higher up the hills.



White's Thrush

This is a place that should be on birders itinerary for there are many species without crowds of people. There are many more species here than I recorded for I missed lots of Photo opportunities and got several poor shots that I could not ID. Birds were mostly round the camp ground and around the waterfall lookouts.



White-headed Bulbuls.

We only paid for the nights camping and entry for the car, no charge per person. No power at the camp area or toilets, there is a generator sitting behind what has been a restaurant but it seems that it as well as the restaurant and shop buildings are only used for a couple of weeks in November when the sunflower fields at Bua Tong are in bloom for it is then that crowds come to see the flowers and many stay overnight at the camp ground. There are houses for rent and people stayed in one on the second night we were there. Dogs are present so food must be secured.



Female Scarlet Minivet

Birds

Bronzed Drongo
Ashy Drongo
Lomg-tailed Shrike
Scarlet Minivet
White-headed Bulbul
Black Bulbul
Asian Brown Flycatcher
Black-crested Bulbul
Asian-fairy Bluebird
Asian-brown Flycatcher
Blue-throated Barbet
Blue-winged Leafbird
Brown-cheeked Fulvetta
Chestnut-flanked White Eye
Eurasian Jay
Grey-backed Shrile
Long-tailed Broadbill
Mrs Goulds Sunbird
Oriental White Eye
Slaty-backed Flycatcher
White’s Thrush
Verditer Flycatcher
Red-throated Pipit
Fire-breasted Flowerpecker