• Welcome to BirdForum, the internet's largest birding community with thousands of members from all over the world. The forums are dedicated to wild birds, birding, binoculars and equipment and all that goes with it.

    Please register for an account to take part in the discussions in the forum, post your pictures in the gallery and more.
ZEISS DTI thermal imaging cameras. For more discoveries at night, and during the day.

Which scope to choose? (1 Viewer)

Thanks Steve for the pic. Would that setup still pitch when taking a shot locked up? Certainly look solid like a rock.

Here's the reality.. If men picks the decor, you'll hear it everyday and not the bird chirps outside but if the women picks it, you can both hear and see what's outside, so why bother to look inside? LOL. BTW, I pick mine and not a chirp from inside....
 
Alphan, The 501 head is good but that tripod is a little light for this. I am using a Bogen 3236 [475] tripod. I bought all this used. I do have a Universal Astronomics Unistar Basic mount on a surveyor's tripod. I bought this used as well.;-) The Unistar mount is more solid than the Bogen and better for the night sky.:t:
http://universalastronomics.com/

I did post a picture of the C80ED on the 501 head on the 3236 tripod.
 
Last edited:
Alphan, The 501 head is good but that tripod is a little light for this. I am using a Bogen 3236 [475] tripod. I bought all this used. I do have a Universal Astronomics Unistar Basic mount on a surveyor's tripod. I bought this used as well.;-) The Unistar mount is more solid than the Bogen and better for the night sky.:t:
http://universalastronomics.com/

I did post a picture of the C80ED on the 501 head on the 3236 tripod.

For night viewing, a real sturdy tripod would be critical but for birding, it'll be impractical to carry such a sturdy tripod around. I will instead work on how best to keep camera shake to minimum from other options. Two tripods (one for the front and another for the camera) would hold it very still, but the model may not keep still. So SS is critical. I did managed to keep shaking to negligible up to 1/200Sec SS. With more practice, I hope to work down to 1/50 or 1/30 with the TC and free float tripod mount.
 
Hi All,
What a great forum! I'm thinking of jumping in with a Stellarview Raptor (carbon fiber tube/ED doublet) 70 or 80 mm refractor for shooting prime (and maybe a little digiscoping). Am considering a Lumix DMC-G2 mirrorless interchangeable camera body for its light weight and rotatable LCD. Not sure whether the micro four thirds camera world has gotten there yet with camera body T ring adapters and teleconverters. Main use will be birding from a couple locations around my home. Not sure I could handle larger scopes and mounts due to physical limitations. Any thoughts or suggestions would be most appreciated.
Best,
Scott
btw: has anyone tried the vixen switchable diagonal that lets you keep a camera mounted, while viewing?
 
Hello scottBird,

Welcome to the Astra gang (as Pete put it LOL). That SV 80ED would be great. Though slightly lesser FL compared to the other 80ED here, the SV are so much lighter and much lighter than any comparative camera lens of similar specs though it would be a little more bulky.

There's no need for the switchable diagonal as you certainly do not need extra weight. Your electronic VF should be more than enough for viewing. I have not used any Lumix for the taste of the electronic VF so can't say much about it. If you can't get a mount from T2 to your mount, just get a adapter from any common mount to your camera, then you can use T2 to the common mount you choose and also use extension tube of that common mount plus of course, any lenses of that common mount for your other shooting purposes.

Cheers.
 
Thank you; question

Hello scottBird,

Welcome to the Astra gang (as Pete put it LOL). That SV 80ED would be great. Though slightly lesser FL compared to the other 80ED here, the SV are so much lighter and much lighter than any comparative camera lens of similar specs though it would be a little more bulky.

There's no need for the switchable diagonal as you certainly do not need extra weight. Your electronic VF should be more than enough for viewing. I have not used any Lumix for the taste of the electronic VF so can't say much about it. If you can't get a mount from T2 to your mount, just get a adapter from any common mount to your camera, then you can use T2 to the common mount you choose and also use extension tube of that common mount plus of course, any lenses of that common mount for your other shooting purposes.

Cheers.
------------------
Thank you, alphan. Sorry, I'm new with the terms. Could you clarify "T2" and "mount" in this context?
Best,
Scott
 
Morning from Scotland, for digiscoping I use the lumix G1 with the electronic VF, I love it! I dont use the screen when taking the shot, always the VF, however my girlfriend finds it easier with the LCD screen. Hope this helps, to see results got to my blog or web page gallery.

Hope you all have a good festive season and good birding in 2011.

Dave
 
Hi All,
What a great forum! I'm thinking of jumping in with a Stellarview Raptor (carbon fiber tube/ED doublet) 70 or 80 mm refractor for shooting prime (and maybe a little digiscoping). Am considering a Lumix DMC-G2 mirrorless interchangeable camera body for its light weight and rotatable LCD. Not sure whether the micro four thirds camera world has gotten there yet with camera body T ring adapters and teleconverters. Main use will be birding from a couple locations around my home. Not sure I could handle larger scopes and mounts due to physical limitations. Any thoughts or suggestions would be most appreciated.
Best,
Scott
btw: has anyone tried the vixen switchable diagonal that lets you keep a camera mounted, while viewing?

The scope and camera would be fine. Micro 4/3 T adapters are easy to find for the G2, ebay would have plenty of them for instance.

CNCSupply make an all in one telescope adapter with micro 4/3 mount but it is only with a 1.25" telescope fitting. They have no plans to make a 2" one mainly because the smaller sensor in the G1/G2 wont suffer any vignetting when using a 1.25" adapter. This isn't much of a problem as telescopes take either 1.25" and 2" without any problems.

Go to http://www.cncsupplyinc.com/ and look for their prime focus kits and the micro 4/3 one will be listed. Costs about $44.

Paul.
 
scottBird said:
I'm thinking of jumping in with a Stellarview Raptor (carbon fiber tube/ED doublet) 70 or 80 mm refractor for shooting prime (and maybe a little digiscoping). Am considering a Lumix DMC-G2 mirrorless interchangeable camera body for its light weight and rotatable LCD. Not sure whether the micro four thirds camera world has gotten there yet with camera body T ring adapters and teleconverters. Main use will be birding from a couple locations around my home.

I have another version of the 70 raptor, it’s the same scope but it’s sold by Ian King. I bought it as a lighter weight alternative to my ED80. It’s a nice light weight and holdable scope but the image quality is no where near ED80’s levels, it has noticeable CA on it’s own witch only gets worse when adding TCs, it’s a worthy choice given the price and still capable of great shots but ultimately it wont give you the quality shots the ED80 scopes will.
I never tried the Stellarvue 80 raptor but I expect it to behave the same given that they don’t inform on the glass type, so it’s not FPL53.

A nice scope from Stellarvue line is this http://www.stellarvue.com/sv80st.html
It’s only slightly heavier than the 70 but it’s image quality in on another realm. I bought one from TS optics (different brand but same glass) recently, it’s going to replace both the ED70 and 80. I can assure you the IQ is amazing, even with a 2x TC I have to magnify the image to 300x to see a slightest hint of CA.

scottBird said:
one more Q: is a field flattener necessary or would simple extension tubes suffice?

Depends on the scope, if you go to the shorter faster designs yes, it’s very useful, the F/6 scopes benefit a great deal from it. On a scope like the SW ED80 I wouldn’t bother with it. I use a SW flattener on the ED80T and I have sharp images from corner to corner, with zero degradation in the center.
 
Hello All,

Thank you for these most helpful replies and the beautiful and inspirational photos you've posted. Wonders of nature and technology together!

Best Holiday Wishes and Good Birding.

Scott
 
Warning! This thread is more than 13 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top