Manfrotto 334B (Automatic Monopod) + 496RC2 Ball Head - Anyone using? (1 Viewer)

Was looking for a decent setup for my OM-D + 100-300 Panny combination. After reading tons of reviews and many different opinions, I decided on the 334B Monopod (has Quick Release Handle) and the 496RC2 ball head.

I figured that 90% of the time I would be walking slowly and only have few seconds to get the camera ready so that ruled out a tripod for me.

The next best option (other than hand holding) is to try a monopod. The monopods with the snap-locks would have to be extended already otherwise time to extend and noise of snap could be a problem. So I didn't want snap locking. That left the twist locking or QR release option. I chose the QR because I liked the idea of one press to extend to any length.

I know that the 496RC2 is a very decent ball head for general photography, but there were major differences in opinion whether or not a ball head should be mounted on a monopod. Many felt a tilt head alone (normal or fluid) or no head at all was a better bet. I will judge when I test but once while holding the camera with one hand the ball head can be controlled and locked into position, I think there should be no issue.

So I'm very interested in the experiences of any that have used monopods. What worked and what caused frustration?

I have the Manfrotto 685B NeoTec monopod which I have reviewed here-
http://www.carolinawildphoto.com/EquipmentNotes.htm#monopod

and a longer discussion here with video of its operation -
http://www.carolinawildphoto.com/podtechnique.htm

I also talk about using just a tilt head with my 500mm and why. Maybe it will be helpful in your decisions.

There is the option which used to be popular in the past called the chain pod. I use a commercially produced one, however this link describes the basics.

http://www.siskinphoto.com/magazine/zpdf/chain_pod.pdf

Like most things dating back to the days of manual photography, there is a knack to getting the best out of it and not everyone will get the hang of it. String is not really a viable option as it ties itself in knots and takes time to deploy (I tried it!) - the right lightweight chain is almost instantaneous. Clearly it will not provide quite the steadying effect of a monopod, but will be much better than hand holding (with practice). The other virtue is that a homebuilt version can be almost free if you can find the right bits lying around. Coincidentally the first time I used a chain pod was on an original film Olympus Pen with a nice F1.9 lens a long time ago.

Does the 334 actually compress down to a small size as my reading indicates its only the top section with the fast adjust, with twist lock on the lower sections?

For the record I use several monopods (Manfrotto 681 to Velbon Ultrastick 50LX (my favourite) with the Manfrotto 234 RC head. The Ultrastick is not automatic, but every section is unlocked with one single twist - you extend it with one pull and lock every section simultaneously with another single twist. This may not work at all well if your arms are shorter than mine! Then you slam the camera with the QR plate already attached onto the head and you are away. I use full size (Olympus) slrs on the Velbon - so I would have no concerns for the OM-D. The 681 tends to be used in possibly hazardous situations, like the original Nikon F, it has uses than purely photographic (I had an slr for a long time with the dent in the pentaprism where a hostile bottle bounced off!)

As much as my early photography was of fast jets and racing cars - similar to birds in flight in many ways, my monopod is held at about 30 degrees to my body with the head running free all the time this needs a longish monopod. (Just make sure that your feet are pointing towards the rough point of release if you are panning) This covers static as well as fast moving subjects. I get far better results than trying to hold a monopod rigidly vertical - but then I have been practising for a horrendous number of years. This approach also means that the rated support weight of the equipment is a bit irrelevant as you are never relying on the monopod or head as the only means of support. Don't get me wrong, I am not saying my approach is the best - just the best for me.

Thanks for the feedback!

OBXGuide, looked at the website and videos and will be very useful when I experiment.

Iveljay, chainpod looks interesting but wonder about maintaining the strain on the chain and possible effects on the camera mount. The 334 doesn't compress to a very compact size and you're spot on, the quick release adjusts one section and a twist lock adjusts the other section. Should not be an issue for me since would just lock bottom section in place and adjust top portion.

While there are several good reviews, there are two possible concerns:

1) The handle locking mechanism gave trouble in a couple of the reviews. Not sure though if the owners properly tightened set screws / hex screws.

2) The foot of the monopod looks like a plastic cap. Would have liked the option of a hard rubber foot that can screw up to reveal a spike like my tripod. Will research.

rka

The strain on the camera mount is not too great, if it is too tight the chain starts vibrating like a violin string, definitely not helpful.

Good luck with your research.

Ok, got my 334B monopod with 496RC2 ball head and have been trying out for a couple days. Here are my initial comments:

1. The 334B is quite sturdy and the handle works like a charm. Very easy to adjust the height quickly and quietly. I extend the bottom section fully (i.e. the part not controlled by the handle) and work from there.
2. The 496RC2 screws nicely on top of the monopod and is just the right size for the camera and zoom lens.
3. I use the tripod socket on the camera since the lens doesn't have a collar. Doesn't seem to be a problem but as I'll explain later, can cause some issues.
4. After a lot of trial and error, and taking into account the Carolina Wild video, my most comfortable position is for the foot of the monopod to wedge against my back right foot with my left foot slightly out front.
5. However, depending on how quickly I have to get into position for a shot, I'm equally comfortable with the monopod leg angled in front of me (with my legs forming the tripod stance) or the monopod wedged at an angle to the right of me.
6. Manouvering the 496RC2 ball head takes some practice, and I can see why many opt for a simpler tilt head configuration. A lot of practice is needed to control the ball head.
7. For me, I start with the 496RC2 ball head oriented with the Friction control on my left hand side and the Locking Lever on my right hand side.
8. I hold with my left hand, the quick release platform and this is adequate for most shots and will allow moving in many directions. The right hand is dedicated to the camera shutter button/controls excluding manual focus. In my setup, the camera and lens are not nicely balanced since using the camera tripod socket. As a result, the left hand manouvres the quick release platform and also keeps the camera and lens in position on the target. If the left hand were released, the camera/lens would flop forward.
9. The main problem with using a ball head arises when one does an initial autofocus and then must manual focus (e.g. to focus past leaves and sticks to get the bird sharp).
10. To manual focus requires the right hand to leave the shutter button and engage the locking lever to fix the ball head orientation. This then allows the left hand to move from the quick release platform to the manual focus ring without camera/lens flopping. Depending on the camera, the right hand may need to engage again the autofocus and retain half press while the left hand then manually focuses and when sharp, the right hand engages the shutter button.
11. So there is a lot that has to happen and very quickly to use manual focus with a Manfrotto ball head. I expect with a tilt head this will be a much much simpler undertaking, even though may not have the range of movement afforded by the ball head.

So look forward to any comments on a better technique for manual focusing given my setup.

rka

Ok, after some further thought, may be able to simplify the manual focusing issue.

If I keep the Ball Head Locking Lever on my left hand side, I could attempt to hold the camera in place with the right hand while quickly releasing the left hand from the QR Plate to lock the ball head in place. All this with the right hand still with the half-pressed shutter button. The left hand could then go to the manual focus ring as needed.

Will test the above technique in the field and see how practical it is.

rka said:

Ok, after some further thought, may be able to simplify the manual focusing issue.

If I keep the Ball Head Locking Lever on my left hand side, I could attempt to hold the camera in place with the right hand while quickly releasing the left hand from the QR Plate to lock the ball head in place. All this with the right hand still with the half-pressed shutter button. The left hand could then go to the manual focus ring as needed.

Will test the above technique in the field and see how practical it is.

Click to expand...

The above works. In most cases, engaging locking lever by left hand not required if friction adjustment done properly. Left hand though still needed on QR plate initially to control properly ball head movement and keep proper alignment and then move forward for MF if/when needed.