dantheman
Bah humbug
Trip to Israel 6 -20 March 2011– summary
Just back from spending 2 weeks travelling around Israel, mostly solo, in the desire to get some decent WP ticks and enjoy another stint of desert birding. Never been to Israel before, getting into the country was a breeze, unfortunately got given the fourth degree when trying to leave, but escaped eventually.
The birding was great, 200+ species (206 if you include heard only Cetti’s Warbler, Rock Nuthatch and Black Francolin, and a freshly dead Spotted Crake on the pavement). Nearly stepped on a snake one night, saw various ‘wild’ mammals and even went snorkelling in the Red Sea -fantastic experience. All but one night was spent wild camping, hitched, walked, had a few long distance bus journeys, and met up with other birders/cadged lifts on 3 days – a German birder and his young family, an Irish birder, and 2 Finnish taxi drivers (birders and self-confessed twitchers). Very few uk birders observed - the one group I did speak to were re-encountered on the flight back home funnily enough.
Had 46 or so lifers, and a further 20 or so year ticks (that’s one of the ‘problems’ of having done Morocco etc this year already – no new hirundines, swifts or terns for example.) In terms of target species, mixed success – a number of the Israeli ‘endemics’ failed to fall, notably Brown Booby, Dead Sea Sparrow, Namaqua Dove, Hooded Wheatear, Syrian Serin and the above-mentioned Francolin, despite a reasonable amount of effort. Not to be. I regret not having put in the effort for Hume’s Owl, with rough camping, and although you strictly aren’t meant to be in the wadis at night, I’m sure I could have ‘arranged’ to be in suitable habitat at the right time. Didn’t make any effort for Nubian Nightjar (guiding too expensive IMO), Egyptian Nightjar, and lacked gen on other species such as Cyprus Warbler until it was too late.
Did see such great species as Mountain Bunting, 4 Sandgrouse including Lichenstein’s, Long-billed Pipit (after a herculean effort), 17 species of raptor including lifer White-tailed Sea (!), Steppe and Eastern Imperial Eagles, MacQueens Bustard (that’s the bustards sorted for the year), Arabian Warbler, Bimaculated Lark and and a swathe of the ‘common’ southern goodies of the region including migrant Ruppell’s Warbler, Arabian Babbler, Sand Partridge, Little Green Bee-eater etc etc.
Highlights difficult to ascribe – it was more a case of spells of seeing great birds in great locations than individual birds standing out, although the Lichenstein’s was probably one of them, the 3 Caspain Plover at Yotvata were pretty special too, with occasions like the 4 lifers in a few hours in Wadi Salvadori – Fan-tailed Raven, Mountain Bunting, Sinai Rosefinch and Pale Rock Sparrow being memorable. First Great White Pelican and Pallas’s Gull were not only a relief, but impressive beasts too. Finding Cyprus Pied Wheatear and my first Olivaceaous Warblers, Cinerous Buntings and Finsch’s Wheatear were a good buzz, and smart birds too. Early migrants include Masked Shrike on the 10th, Collared Pratincole on the morning of the 20th, Turtle Doves, and the like. Multiple Citrine Wagtails, a flock of Greater Sandplovers and the wader spectacle in general deserve an honourable mention.
The trip went smoothly enough, considering I was almost totally unprepared – I had printed out a bundle of trip reports in the week beforehand, but barely looked at them, and regret not having tried to acquire one of the couple of published birding guides to the area. As it turns out Stephan, the German guy lent me his (admittedly old – updated in 1996) copy of the Gosney, which proved pretty useful more than once. Birding around the Eliat area (Holland Park, the various town parks, North Beach and the Ringing and Birding Centre) for the first 3 days was a good introduction (having taken the overnight bus from Tel Aviv where my flight had come in), 2 days would have been better perhaps. I then headed north to Nizzana for the Bustard, Hezeva for the Arabian Warbler, the Dead Sea (Wadi Salvadori), Mount Gilboa for the Pipit and nearby fishponds, the Hula Valley (Cranes etc), Mount Hermon in the far north (lots of snow), then overnight back down to Eliat for a last few days birding in the slightly wider area (Yotvata and Wadi Sheloma etc).
Pretty much full time birding, hitching was generally very easy, walked far too far on some days, with full rucksack, should have made more effort to hide it away for the day on occasion. I subsisted on the whole on bread, sardines, tomatoes, fruit and bottled water for the duration. The people were on the whole very friendly and helpful, there’s always exceptions, but was pleasantly surprised given the general media image of the nation etc etc. Security concerns were almost of no consequence in day to day birding, life and travel even, the weather was mostly great (it can’t help being sunny and a little too hot given its location I guess), and overall a great trip.
Just back from spending 2 weeks travelling around Israel, mostly solo, in the desire to get some decent WP ticks and enjoy another stint of desert birding. Never been to Israel before, getting into the country was a breeze, unfortunately got given the fourth degree when trying to leave, but escaped eventually.
The birding was great, 200+ species (206 if you include heard only Cetti’s Warbler, Rock Nuthatch and Black Francolin, and a freshly dead Spotted Crake on the pavement). Nearly stepped on a snake one night, saw various ‘wild’ mammals and even went snorkelling in the Red Sea -fantastic experience. All but one night was spent wild camping, hitched, walked, had a few long distance bus journeys, and met up with other birders/cadged lifts on 3 days – a German birder and his young family, an Irish birder, and 2 Finnish taxi drivers (birders and self-confessed twitchers). Very few uk birders observed - the one group I did speak to were re-encountered on the flight back home funnily enough.
Had 46 or so lifers, and a further 20 or so year ticks (that’s one of the ‘problems’ of having done Morocco etc this year already – no new hirundines, swifts or terns for example.) In terms of target species, mixed success – a number of the Israeli ‘endemics’ failed to fall, notably Brown Booby, Dead Sea Sparrow, Namaqua Dove, Hooded Wheatear, Syrian Serin and the above-mentioned Francolin, despite a reasonable amount of effort. Not to be. I regret not having put in the effort for Hume’s Owl, with rough camping, and although you strictly aren’t meant to be in the wadis at night, I’m sure I could have ‘arranged’ to be in suitable habitat at the right time. Didn’t make any effort for Nubian Nightjar (guiding too expensive IMO), Egyptian Nightjar, and lacked gen on other species such as Cyprus Warbler until it was too late.
Did see such great species as Mountain Bunting, 4 Sandgrouse including Lichenstein’s, Long-billed Pipit (after a herculean effort), 17 species of raptor including lifer White-tailed Sea (!), Steppe and Eastern Imperial Eagles, MacQueens Bustard (that’s the bustards sorted for the year), Arabian Warbler, Bimaculated Lark and and a swathe of the ‘common’ southern goodies of the region including migrant Ruppell’s Warbler, Arabian Babbler, Sand Partridge, Little Green Bee-eater etc etc.
Highlights difficult to ascribe – it was more a case of spells of seeing great birds in great locations than individual birds standing out, although the Lichenstein’s was probably one of them, the 3 Caspain Plover at Yotvata were pretty special too, with occasions like the 4 lifers in a few hours in Wadi Salvadori – Fan-tailed Raven, Mountain Bunting, Sinai Rosefinch and Pale Rock Sparrow being memorable. First Great White Pelican and Pallas’s Gull were not only a relief, but impressive beasts too. Finding Cyprus Pied Wheatear and my first Olivaceaous Warblers, Cinerous Buntings and Finsch’s Wheatear were a good buzz, and smart birds too. Early migrants include Masked Shrike on the 10th, Collared Pratincole on the morning of the 20th, Turtle Doves, and the like. Multiple Citrine Wagtails, a flock of Greater Sandplovers and the wader spectacle in general deserve an honourable mention.
The trip went smoothly enough, considering I was almost totally unprepared – I had printed out a bundle of trip reports in the week beforehand, but barely looked at them, and regret not having tried to acquire one of the couple of published birding guides to the area. As it turns out Stephan, the German guy lent me his (admittedly old – updated in 1996) copy of the Gosney, which proved pretty useful more than once. Birding around the Eliat area (Holland Park, the various town parks, North Beach and the Ringing and Birding Centre) for the first 3 days was a good introduction (having taken the overnight bus from Tel Aviv where my flight had come in), 2 days would have been better perhaps. I then headed north to Nizzana for the Bustard, Hezeva for the Arabian Warbler, the Dead Sea (Wadi Salvadori), Mount Gilboa for the Pipit and nearby fishponds, the Hula Valley (Cranes etc), Mount Hermon in the far north (lots of snow), then overnight back down to Eliat for a last few days birding in the slightly wider area (Yotvata and Wadi Sheloma etc).
Pretty much full time birding, hitching was generally very easy, walked far too far on some days, with full rucksack, should have made more effort to hide it away for the day on occasion. I subsisted on the whole on bread, sardines, tomatoes, fruit and bottled water for the duration. The people were on the whole very friendly and helpful, there’s always exceptions, but was pleasantly surprised given the general media image of the nation etc etc. Security concerns were almost of no consequence in day to day birding, life and travel even, the weather was mostly great (it can’t help being sunny and a little too hot given its location I guess), and overall a great trip.
Last edited: