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the Bausch & Lomb Zephyr 7x35 - a real classic (1 Viewer)

John Dracon

John Dracon
For the younger generation getting into binoculars, I am curious how many have really spent any time looking through the Bausch & Lomb Zephyr 7x35 binocular and discovering it isn't too shabby? From time to time as I make inveitable comparisons of various binoculars in my collection, I pull out a cherry pair of B&Ls and come away convinced that it is a superbly crafted binocular. The edges are rather soft, and it doesn't accommodate eye glass wearers like newer models (using flat cups helps). And of course it isn't water proof and covered with rubber. But the optical center is excellent. And at 19 ounces, highly portable. The coatings can be scrubbed away with careless cleaning. Yet the view is very good. In fact it is very comfortable to use for extended periods. The pebble grain covering is very practical and durable. My particular 7x35 was made in 1950. Its case is made of real tanned leather, protective and easy to open and shut. Used ones in good shape are readily available. It is in my opinion a real classic. John
 
For the younger generation getting into binoculars, I am curious how many have really spent any time looking through the Bausch & Lomb Zephyr 7x35 binocular and discovering it isn't too shabby? From time to time as I make inveitable comparisons of various binoculars in my collection, I pull out a cherry pair of B&Ls and come away convinced that it is a superbly crafted binocular. The edges are rather soft, and it doesn't accommodate eye glass wearers like newer models (using flat cups helps). And of course it isn't water proof and covered with rubber. But the optical center is excellent. And at 19 ounces, highly portable. The coatings can be scrubbed away with careless cleaning. Yet the view is very good. In fact it is very comfortable to use for extended periods. The pebble grain covering is very practical and durable. My particular 7x35 was made in 1950. Its case is made of real tanned leather, protective and easy to open and shut. Used ones in good shape are readily available. It is in my opinion a real classic. John


John,

I doubt that more than a handful of people who post to the binocular section of birdforum have ever looked through the Zephyr, and of course one reason is that relatively few were sold in the UK and Europe. I only discovered it recently myself, and I am amazed by its sharpness, contrast, and brightness. It does have its downside (field of view, close focus, amber cast), but there is a reason it was one of the most popular postwar birding binoculars in the USA for at least twenty years. And other binoculars from the 1950s and 1960s go unnoticed. For example the Bushnell Custom 7x35 is very fine, with a wider field of view than the Zephyr. Even the early FPO-made Custom, which dates between about 1959 and 1965, has remarkable color fidelity, which I did not think was possible in a binocular at that time.

I find these and other "vintage" bins to be really interesting. While everybody else seems obsessed with practically immeasurable and imperceptible differences between "alpha" binoculars, I have been pleasantly surprised to discover the landmark bins of the past.
 
The Zephyr was the Alpha glass of the Bausch and Lomb line and priced accordingly.
It was very expensive, several hundred dollars in the 1950s if memory serves.
Adjusted for inflation, that makes the new Swaro seem a raging bargain.
 
Remeber the Zephyr was in production for quite a while from the 1940s through the 1960s and comes in (single) coated and uncoated versions in a range of sizes. They tend to have unspectacular FOV (and AFOV) numbers.

Nice overview on CN

http://www.cloudynights.com/ubbthre...3282/page/0/view/collapsed/sb/5/o/all/fpart/1

This one may still be for sale for $99 ;)

http://www.etsy.com/view_listing.php?listing_id=32615362

Coatings (and eyepiece design) are perhaps the biggest changes in the past 50 years in porros). I suspect I'd prefer a modern inexpensive porro ;)
 
For a birthday present in 1975 I received a new 7 x 35 Zephyr. I sold it for $100 about 10 years later so I could buy my current Swift Audubon 804R's. I liked the Zephyr, but have no recollection as to its quality, but it certainly had that air of a gentle breeze....
 
Hello Zephyr lovers,
If you've been following the Famous Bidding Site you've seen several pairs of Zephyrs soar out of reach. One that didn't (and which I now have) seems to be a pre-Zephyr: 7x35, but no Zephyr label. It is pretty bright, but stiff. Whom would you recommend for reliable cleaning of "real" B&L binoculars?
 
Hello Zephyr lovers,
If you've been following the Famous Bidding Site you've seen several pairs of Zephyrs soar out of reach. One that didn't (and which I now have) seems to be a pre-Zephyr: 7x35, but no Zephyr label. It is pretty bright, but stiff. Whom would you recommend for reliable cleaning of "real" B&L binoculars?

I saw the one you bought. No coatings, right? By stiff I assume you mean the focus. If this is the only problem you want to fix, I have done it on two vintage bins successfully using WD40 delivered through a tiny syringe (the type for insulin, which we used to have to give our cat). I applied carefully below the focus wheel and allowed it to soak in. I worked the focus back and forth for ten or fifteen minutes and used clean tissue to soak up any lubricant that went beyond the target and then let it sit for a day. I repeated this about five days, after which the focus worked perfectly. On one bin, after the first application the focus literally crunched a little, but I think this was hardened lubricant breaking up. As you wipe off excess WD you will see darkened and dissolved lubricant working its way out.

I saw the beautiful brown Zephyr with lizard skin that sold for about $475, and another mint one at about $375, which surprised me. There is another mint, early one in original box with all accessories on eBay right now. I can't tell if it is coated or not. I suspect it will also sell high.
 
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Thanks, Jonathan.

It appears that one objective lens has been stabilized with glue (not egregiously like a military binocular, but you can see seepage around the edge). Since, as you noted, there seem to be no coatings, one ought to be able to strip that off. But I'm an absolute novice at binocular innards--and if my childhood is any indicator, I'm much better at taking things apart than putting them back together.

The image is, as you might also expect, very sharp and bright and it's a real tossup to me whether or not to invest in a binocular that doesn't have close enough focus to be a useful birding instrument. I don't mind accumulating, but the accumulants (?) have to be usable.
 
rdmadison - Since I have cleaned, aligned, disassembled, etc. a number of Zephrys over the years, my comments are from experience. The American B&L binoculars have always rivaled Zeiss in terms of quality of materials and workmanship. Coatings on the Zephyrs appeared during the WWII era, or shortly thereafter. B&L coatings are relatively soft and easily rubbed or marred. But that has little effect on opitcal image. Japanese coatings are very hard when compared to the B & L on the other hand.

Any center focus binocular with the oculars moving up and down will create a bellows effect, and will bring in impurities into the system. Over the years this often creates a light haze on the prisms, lessening the inherent brightness of the optical system. B&L tolerances are very precise, and the stiffness when focusing is the function of three areas where friction can arise because of lubricant breakdown and pieces of grit:(1) the center screw assembly which moves the oculars up and down, (2) where the bridges hold the ocular assembly which move in and out, and (3) the tubes housing the oculars which in turn slide inside the main tubes which thread through the shelves or lids into the body or chassis itself.

Individual focus binoculars have minimal bellows effect and are tighter. Hence, they tend to survive the ravages of times due to dust, water, and grit. My experience with CF Zephyrs demonstrates that most of the "stiffness" is found between the two tube assemblies. Tiny pieces of grit can migrate to the edges of the tubes and create galling which has a disproportionate effect on negating smooth movement when the center wheel is turned. As mentioned before, B&L tolerances are precise but tight. Tight enough to aid in collimation but loose enough to allow lubricants to help the ocular tubes move with ease. Sometimes the gunk is so thick the tubes seem almost frozen.
But they aren't and can be carefully moved apart for cleaning. Often the minute galling leaves tell tale marks lengthwise on the tubes.

Whom to send to? A number of folks do that kind of work. But don't be surprised if the cost is high. For do it your self kinds of folks, appropriate screw drivers, strap wrenches, and lens cleaning materials are essential as is a surgically clean work area.

Becoming familiar with the mechanical processes is helpful - tear into a junker binocular first. Then proceed with caution. If you do "break into " a B&L Zephyr, you will quickly understand the precision and quality which made it a standard of the industry over fifty years ago. John
 
Thanks, folks.

I have several Japanese pairs that need cleaning and cost virtually nothing, so I'd prefer to start on those. But even for my Swifts I'd rather have professional help.

I'm also one of those people who hates to improvise tools: if I can't find the right tool, I don't like to undertake the job. It looks like an optical spanner wrench is in my future. But I also will need to learn how to remove mold and glue residue without further damaging coatings. Better living through chemistry.

I'm off to the biology department now with the the barn owl carcass I picked up on the way to the office.
 
Reading this got me to thinking, since I've had a couple Zephyrs....what was the cost back when? So I dug out a bunch of Nat'l Geographics (I've got a slough of 'em from about '42 thru '62-really interesting reading that'll consume a whole day if yr not careful) to find the ads. They started to appear about '48 (no binos were made during the war yrs....all production from US, Canada, UK and allies went to the military effort, as did the German & Japanese to theirs). The first I found was in an April or May '48 issue with a suggested price (in fine print at the bottom of the ad) for a 7x35 of $186 (!)....that'd put it in the FL/EDG (etc) range of today. But then, virually no consumer goods were produced during the war so demand was high for everything (cars, appliances, foodstuffs, shoes, tires.....) AND, since virtually everyone was working then, making good $ with nothing to spend it on, they saved (and bought bonds), so it was a definite sellers' market. Went thru a few more issues, and in a '52 spring ad (before vacation season)found the price had dropped to $155 (same model). Interestingly, there was, in the same issue, an ad for Leitz 8x30 Binulixit for $135.....hmm. Also found an ad for a Wollensak 6x30 (but non suggested price).

I believe the Zephyr line eventually included 6x30, 7x35, 7x50, 8x30, 9x35 and likely (tho' I've never seen one) a 10x50...all available in CF or IF. Great glasses, fully a match for Zeiss or Leitz of the time.

c
 
I believe the Zephyr line eventually included 6x30, 7x35, 7x50, 8x30, 9x35 and likely (tho' I've never seen one) a 10x50...all available in CF or IF. Great glasses, fully a match for Zeiss or Leitz of the time.

Still a match for some bins made today, as well as for some very recent high-end bins. I compared to Swarovski SLC 7X30, which is a very good all-around binocular. The SLC I used was made in 1999 and is pre-Swarobright, so it has the exact same amber cast as the Zephyr. The fields of view are identical. The Zephyr is much brighter, sharper, and more contrasty.
 
I don't know if anyone is paying attention to this any more, but today I pick a mint pair of 7x35 Zephyrs for 40.00. I have to say that I am very impressed with their overall quality and view. Wow!

Has anyone else discovered vintage porro prisms to be a delight?
 
There is a pair at a pawn shop for $25 that I might have to get. The focus is stiff, but using the tip in this thread I might get it loosen up.

Chad
 
There is a pair at a pawn shop for $25 that I might have to get. The focus is stiff, but using the tip in this thread I might get it loosen up.

Chad

Chad,

The real classics are the ones made in Rochester, rather than in Japan.

Happy collecting,
Arthur
 
I haven't yet. They've been there a while. They are kind of beat up but the glass is good. Of course, now that I'm talking about it, somebody else will buy them before I get over there to grab them.

Chad
 
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