The very wide brown land: Australia - June-August 2013 (1 Viewer)

Day Thirty-six: Kunoth Bore – Trephina Gorge

Early in the morning I drove a little to the northwest of Alice Springs to Kunoth Bore and the nearby Hamilton Downs track. I had a near miss on the way when I almost ran over a Major Mitchell’s Cockatoo. Like many Australian parrots, it leads a happy life loafing about on roads, unconcerned with whatever might be hurtling toward it. Five more were at the bore along with a few ducks, including two Pink-eared Ducks.

I spent the rest of the morning along the Hamilton Downs track, which passes through varied mulga. The wind was surprisingly fresh and cool for much of the time, which seemed to diminish bird activity at first. In fact the first few kilometres of the track were rather birdless. After around 5km things picked up and there were plenty of flowering bushes to bring in the birds. Both Black and Pied Honeyeaters were easily found, their calls almost constantly within earshot. Other birds in the scrub included several Crimson Chats, Inland, Yellow-rumped and Chestnut-rumped Thornbills, numerous Rufous Whistlers, Red-capped and Hooded Robins, Splendid Fairy-wren, White-winged Triller and Southern Whiteface. A welcome surprise came mid-morning when a splendid group of five White-browed Woodswallows appeared. I’d been half-expecting these colourful and elegant birds through much of the trip and was beginning to wonder when they’d show up. I spent the rest of the morning trying to find thornbill flocks, which were generally lacking or small in size. Eventually searching around produced the species I was looking for: a single Slaty-backed Thornbill. It was quite furtive compared to the boisterous Chestnut-rumped Thornbills, scuttling low through the bushes.

In the afternoon I drove through the East McDonnell Ranges to Trephina Gorge. This was another rather spectacular spot. I didn’t see too much except for another rather obliging group of six Spinifex Pigeons – fast becoming a trip favourite.

I’d like to have stayed for the night but headed back to Alice Springs with a few plans for tomorrow.

Below, a few shots of Trephina Gorge.

Some shots from the Hamilton Downs track:
1. Black Honeyeater
2. Hooded Robin
3. Red-capped Robin
4. Rufous Whistler

Great stuff Dr W and some fantastic birds, especially those pigeons. I wondered why the Torry thread had gone quiet over the summer and now I know why

I wait with baited breath to see if you finally display the intestinal fortitude needed to grind it out in the spinifex and nail that wren

Day Thirty-seven: Mt Gillen – Barkly Highway

In the morning I headed back to Mt Gillen, determined to reach the top. It was a fine morning and I made good progress towards the rocky summit. This progress was aided by the almost total absence of any birds. The last part up over the rock bluff negotiated, I continued up to the summit, enjoying the panoramic views as I did so. A Grey-headed Honeyeater showed nicely. That seemed to be about it.

You may have noted that I’ve not had total success with grasswrens. Here I was trying, as I had been much of the time I’d been around Alice Springs, for a sixth species: Dusky Grasswren. This is supposed to be ‘the easy one’, which dances jigs on rocks to a delighted audience. And Mount Gillen is supposed to a very reliable site for it. As seems to happen in reliable places for grasswrens, I was greeted with silence and a total lack of birdlife. Whilst walking back down from the summit I began to ponder how I managed to miss six species of grasswren. What was I doing wrong? Then I heard a thin, alternating twitter – a bit like a fairy-wren but not quite right. Then I heard it again. Looking down the slope nothing was visible but I hung around. Then, the same sound. Scanning across the rocks something moved, then up popped a brown bird with a cocked tail. Blimey – an actual Dusky Grasswren! It snuck off quickly before pottering back into view for a second. I walked down the slope a bit further and eventually the same bird (or perhaps another – two were calling) came out for some really close views – brilliant!

Inevitably I then saw some more. Just after clambering down the rock face, a pair appeared, twittering eagerly away. This pair pretty much did dance a jig on the rocks: absolutely point blank views were enjoyed. They were actually rather lovely – it almost made me want to look for other grasswrens again.

After getting back to the car and stocking up, I bade farewell to Alice Springs and commenced the long drive northwards. Luckily the 130 kmph speed limit on the Stuart Highway kept me cruising at a brisk pace. Not too many birds were seen on the journey, but lots of raptors were visible: mainly Black and Whistling Kites, with the odd Wedge-tailed Eagle. A Brown Falcon appeared after I turned on to the Barkly Highway. I stopped for the night at 41-mile Bore, a rest area much frequented by caravanners and feral cats. A Mistletoebird and a couple of Little Crows were scooting about at dusk.

Below, some of the views afforded from the summit of Mt Gillen.

markgrubb said:

Great stuff Dr W and some fantastic birds, especially those pigeons. I wondered why the Torry thread had gone quiet over the summer and now I know why

I wait with baited breath to see if you finally display the intestinal fortitude needed to grind it out in the spinifex and nail that wren

Click to expand...

Thanks! Looks like you can un-bait your breath Dr G. Here's some jig-dancing Dusky Grasswren action.

wow.

Day Thirty-eight: Tablelands Highway – Cape Crawford – Borroloola

This was another long day of driving, but it was also packed with good birds. I sped along the Barkly Highway to the Barkly Homestead before turning north on the Tablelands Highway. The highway leads through extensive grass plains, as well as forests further north as the birdlife begins to reflect the Top End rather than arid interior. A feature of the whole day were very large numbers of woodswallows. I’d not been seeing many of these birds through my travels. This was the day when I found out where quite a lot of them were. Most prominent were Masked Woodswallows – gorgeous silver-grey birds that were around in their hundreds. White-browed Woodswallows were numerous too, as were Black-faced. These birds were encountered from just north of the homestead and at many places where there were flowering trees. At the first stop, good views were had of the very brightly coloured ‘Golden-backed’ subspecies of Black-chinned Honeyeater – a really smart bird.

The grasslands of the Barkly Tablelands were vast and seemingly lacking in birds. I was hoping to find Flock Bronzewings out here and perhaps they were there somewhere, but there was a lot of grass to hide them in. More success was had with two birds that were seen elegantly floating across the grasslands – two Australian Pratincoles, drifting serenely on very long wings. Aside from a few commoner raptors, the tablelands were otherwise quiet. Forested areas were more productive, with Grey-headed and Brown Honeyeaters, Jacky Winter, White-winged Triller and Weebill.

As the afternoon drew on and I neared Cape Crawford at the northern end of the Tablelands Highway, the terrain became more undulating and forested. The forests seemed quiet until I noticed a few birds zipping about near some flowering trees. Clearly there was lots about; stacks of woodswallows, Little Friarbirds and the strange looking Silver-crowned Friarbirds flitted noisily about the trees. A few Varied Lorikeets whizzed by, one perching for some good looks.

I stopped a bit further along where the road passes over the McArthur River about 15km south of Cape Crawford. The first bridge produced a Yellow-tinted Honeyeater, Little Shrike-thrush and Leaden Flycatcher. Top End birds were definitely starting to appear. The next bridge passed over the main channel, which had quite a bit of water in it. A vocal group of Great Bowerbirds powered about and a White-throated Gerygone was part of a flock of small passerines. I wanted to encourage the flock a bit closer, so started squeaking while I stood in some tall cane grass. The flock didn’t come closer, but the squeaking proved very effective. Just to my left a fairy-wren appeared. It was a female but looked a bit unusual, with a blue-grey crown, pale supercillium, dark brown cheeks and blue tail. This looked interesting but where was the male? Soon he appeared – a stupendous Purple-crowned Fairy-wren! This was quite unexpected – I knew these birds occurred further north and east but didn’t know they were at this site. They flitted about the cane grass, giving great views over several minutes. Blimey. On the way back to the car a group of slightly more prosaic looking White-gaped Honeyeaters appeared, moving furtively through the trees.

After Cape Crawford I continued on northeastwards to Borroloola. A stop a few kilometres along the road was hugely productive. Stepping out of the car, a couple of Rainbow Bee-eaters appeared in the trees. The usual clouds of woodswallows circled overhead. Budgerigars, Varied Lorikeets and the northern Red-collared subspecies of Rainbow Lorikeets darted off. A stockade was visited by Zebra and Double-barred Finches and in amongst them were a couple of very smart Long-tailed Finches, with black chins, long pointed tails and coral red bills. The stockade was full of Diamond Doves and a gang of Apostlebirds popped through. Back by the car a gorgeous male Red-backed Fairy-wren appeared in the tall grass – absolutely brilliant looking in jet black and scarlet. Then, driving off I noticed a few woodswallows in the road. These were small and rich dark brown – Little Woodswallows. What a day it had been for this group of birds.

The road to Borroloola was clearly busy with birds. The most startling were too huge, long-necked ones that flew up from right next to the road. I was amazed to see they were Australian Bustards, cruising off into the bush. I arrived in Borroloola as night fell. It’s a strange kind of place – more of a collection of portacabins than a town. I was looking forward to having a good inspection of the area in the morning.

Below, the thrilling landscape of the Barkly Tablelands.

Day Thirty-nine: Borroloola – Carrabirini Springs – Daly Waters

I wasn’t too sure where to head early on, but my satnav showed a small lake just north of Borroloola, so I headed out that way and found the lake. There were only four ducks on the lake but happily two of them were Radjah Shelduck, a species I was hoping to catch up with in the Top End. A couple of Red-winged Parrot lolloped over with slow flaps. A little further along I again found some Australian Bustards right by the road. Happily these hung around for long enough for some good views, cautiously picking their way back into the bush.

I drove back up the road towards Cape Crawford and stopped 40km away to explore a site that, apparently, is where Carpentarian Grasswren can be found. I managed to find the right spot and it seemed good for grasswrens because there were no other birds there. What was less good were signs of recent fire, so I suspected the area might not be any good any more. Another Australian Bustard sailed past but I decided that I wasn’t going to spend all morning looking for grasswrens. Heading back towards the road I heard a call that sounded a bit like a rather fulsome Dunnock call. Eventually I found the source – a pair of Black-tailed Treecreepers. Excellent stuff – I enjoyed watching these rather shy and very dark treecreepers working the trunks. It also meant I’d now seen all six Australian species, and every one a winner.

I continued on a short distance to Carrabarini Springs, a fantastic reserve of sandstone pillars and a lovely waterhole. The waterhole was dotted with lots of tiny Green Pygmy-geese, with four Plumed Whistling Ducks lurking around the edges. At the far end of glorious pair of Brolgas waded, occasionally giving a trumpet. Passerines were coming in too. Once again I saw some Purple-crowned Fairy-wrens, three of them eventually, but all in female-type plumage. A couple of Paperbark Flycatchers noisily zipped about the water lilies. A group of Crimson Finches came down to the bank to quietly drink.

Lovely stuff, but I thought I’d had a wander around. Near the car park a group of three Red-tailed Black Cockatoos held court in the top of a tree. Amongst the wrinkled sandstone pillars I soon found a Top End speciality when a Sandstone Shrike-thrush flew down on to a nearby rock, which it almost matched in colour. There were numerous honeyeaters – Brown, Yellow-tinted and White-gaped – and then a smaller one flew out of a flowering tree towards me. It was a juvenile Banded Honeyeater, like a brown version of an adult. I had another look back in the tree and eventually found a more black-and-white near-adult – a really smart bird. Northern Fantail and White-throated Gerygone were also seen on the walk round. Back at the waterhole, I noticed a large shape perched on a branch. Earlier on I’d glimpsed a Blue-winged Kookaburra but here was one sat up beautifully, its huge bill smiling back at me. Less obliging was a Northern Rosella, which flew into the trees behind the waterhole without reappearing.

This was a really good reserve, which is well worth spending half a day at if you’re in the area. According to the information board, it’s also a site for Carpentarian Grasswren although I don’t know what the best area to look is. Probably the bit with no other birds.

After that I made the long journey along the Carpentaria Highway, dodging the road trains and caravans, and arrived back on the Stuart Highway. I drove to nearby Daly Waters for the night. The campsite was busy with Apostlebirds and Red-winged Parrots flew overhead. Dozens of White-breasted Woodswallows gathered in the trees, completing the set for this group of birds on the trip.

The Daly Waters Pub is an interesting place to spend the evening. Some seriously Australian entertainment is on offer.

1. Banded Honeyeater juvenile
2. A slightly more adult Banded Honeyeater
3. Bar-shouldered Doves
4. Brolga
5. Australian Darter

1&2. Varied Sittella, the second bird with a deformed bill.
3. Green Pygmy-geese
4. Some more sandstone at Carrabirini Springs
5. The billabong at Carrabirini

Some be-quiffed Red-tailed Black Cockatoos:

great stuff, especially those superb grasswren pics, and how exciting it must have been to come upon the PC fairywren where you weren't expecting it.

Day Forty: Daly Waters – Katherine – Nitmiluk – Edith Falls Road

I left Daly Waters fairly early, seeing Paperbark Flycatcher and Apostlebird before I left, and sped up the Stuart Highway. I stopped at Mataranka where I went to the Mataranka Cabins caravan site. At the reception I received the news I expected: there was no sign of the once reliable Red Goshawks. The woman there said that the lack of rains during the wet season meant that conditions were probably too dry. I’d read all this on the Internet, so wasn’t too surprised, but I had held out some hope that the birds were back. Sadly it was not to be.

When I arrived in Katherine, having passed monumental quantities of road kill, attended by numerous kites and crows, I headed for the Low Level Park. Here various trails run parallel to the Katherine River. Birding was a little slow but there were good numbers of Rufous-throated Honeyeaters, as well as various commoner species such as Crimson Finch and White-bellied Cuckoo-shrike.

I then drove up to Nitmiluk for a fairly brief look round. It was all a bit too touristy for me and the staff at the visitor centre didn’t seem to know anything about birds (contra the claims made by Thomas & Thomas). The campsite was busy with birds, including Great Bowerbird, Rufous-throated, Blue-faced and Brown Honeyeaters. A Banded Honeyeater showed very well.

I spent the rest of the afternoon further north, along the Edith Falls Road. About five kilometres along the road are a couple of drinking pools along a river and I knew that these had been quite productive in recent times. I sat myself down for the next couple of hours to see what would come by. It was slow at times but eventually I managed 27 species. The first birds to appear were a pair of Cockatiels. They were soon followed by a smart yellow-billed Masked Finch – very much the sort of thing I was hoping to see here. After a lull a few White-throated Honeyeaters came in to drink and bathe. As they were doing so a few more Masked Finches appeared. Then, suddenly, a flash of green and sitting next to them was a Gouldian Finch – excellent stuff! It was probably a female but still very smart looking, being of the black-faced form. A confiding group of three Northern Rosellas spent some time feeding on fruit at a nearby tree. Other birds that appeared included Northern Fantail, Leaden Flycatcher, Brown Falcon, Brown and Banded Honeyeaters, Red-winged Parrot, Rainbow Bee-eater, Little and Silver-crowned Friarbirds, White-breasted Woodswallow, White-winged Triller and Double-barred Finch. Quite a decent spot!

Sadly the one bird I was particularly hoping for didn’t appear, but I’d be back in the morning for more. I camped down near the junction of the Stuart Highway hoping for success the next morning.

1. Silver-crowned Friarbird
2-5. Northern Rosella

Day Forty-one: Edith Falls Road – Chinaman Creek – Victoria River - Kununurra

Without much delay in the morning I headed back to the drinking pool to see what was happening there. I only had to wait a few minutes to see the birds I was hoping for. A few Northern Rosellas appeared in the tree next to the pool and then three smaller parrots. At first I saw a plain green bird with a long tail, but then a much brighter blue, yellow and black thing. Brilliant – these were Hooded Parrots. They stayed for a minute or two before disappearing but then a few more appeared fleetingly. Thinking there might be more in the area, I went for a wander. Sure enough, across the road several were quietly feeding on the ground. I had great views as they quietly shuffled about. Then more and more began to arrive. Eventually around sixty were present, almost turning the ground blue-green.

I waited around the pool to see what else came in to drink. Eventually a few Masked Finches appeared and then a whole gang of Gouldian Finches – probably around thirty. The vast majority were quite dull green immatures but there were some corking adult males, including one or two red-faced individuals. Other birds were around too. A group of seventeen Red-tailed Black Cockatoos sailed over, calling almost like Cranes. White-gaped and Banded Honeyeaters dropped in.

Then it was long drive, stopping in Katherine, but then heading west along the Victoria Highway. I stopped for a while at Chinaman Creek, but it was a little bit quiet. A group of Cockatiels flew over and a good flock of Masked and White-browed Woodswallows appeared. A Blue-winged Kookaburra showed nicely.

Along the highway birds were sometimes hard to see. One that wasn’t was a huge Black-necked Stork that took off from almost next to the road. The Victoria Roadhouse area was busy with birds, despite it being the heat of the day, but nothing too exceptional was seen. A more productive stop was later in the afternoon at the Keep River National Park, right on the Western Australian border. Cockatoo Lagoon is a small lake near the entrance and a very good spot it is too. Lots of waterfowl included my first Magpie Geese, Nankeen Night Heron and Intermediate Egret of the trip, as well as several Agile Wallabies. Returning back to the highway along the entrance track a few finches flew up. These proved to be a nice flock of Gouldian Finches – around a dozen. Again, a large proportion were juveniles. A similar number of Long-tailed Finches were also around.

I arrived in Kununurra and headed to the Lakeside Caravan Park. I was cursing the rather exorbitant price for camping and pondered on what I was actually getting for thirty-three dollars as I parked up the car. Wandering to the lakeside I heard a double woofing call coming from above me, like a small dog. I looked up into the tree and there was a Barking Owl, staring back down at me. It continued woofing away, extending its neck upwards with vigour, until it was joined by another. They called intermittently throughout the evening. Woof woof! As night fell several flying foxes set off into the dark over the lake.

A few not particularly great pictures from the Edith Falls Road waterhole:
1. A male Hooded Parrot
2. Red-winged Parrot
3. Masked Finch
4. Some dowdy juvenile Gouldian Finches
5. A slightly more colourful red-faced adult

Larry Sweetland said:

great stuff, especially those superb grasswren pics, and how exciting it must have been to come upon the PC fairywren where you weren't expecting it.

Click to expand...

Thanks Larry. The Purple-crowned Fairy-wren was certainly one of the birds of the trip, not least because of the circumstances of finding it.

Some more pictures:
1. Great Bowerbird (at Edith Falls Road)
2. White-bellied Cuckooshrike (at Victoria River Crossing)

Day Forty-two: Kununurra -Marlgu Billabong - Parry Creek

I woke at dawn with the Barking Owl still calling. Down at the lake there was plenty of activity. The lilies were being trotted by dozens of Comb-crested Jacanas, a few Green Pygmy Geese were dotted about and a Sacred Kingfisher perched at the edge of the water. Then a Pied Heron flew across and landed out of sight. In the shallows the snout of a crocodile drifted slowly through the water.

The first stop of the day was along Ivanhoe Road on the edge of town. I parked at the third irrigation channel and, in a scenario that I’m entirely in favour of, saw one of my target birds before getting out of the car and the other a few seconds after doing so. As I parked up a flock of perhaps 20-30 red-faced Star Finches flew up and perched. I got out of the car to scrutinise them more closely and noticed that amongst them was a single Yellow-rumped Mannikin. I thought it might require a bit of effort to see these two tricky finches but apparently not. I went for a walk along the edge of the channel, where there was plenty of scrub and reedy grass. I noticed that a raptor wasn’t the usual Black or Whistling Kite but was, in fact, a Spotted Harrier – it showed rather well as it perched in a low bush. Up on the power lines I had more success with a pair of very nice Red-backed Kingfishers regularly swooping down for insects. Three Australian Bustards sailed past as if it was the most natural thing in the world.

Later I went along to Hidden Valley National Park, which is on the edge of town. I didn’t go into the park proper (balking at the rather exorbitant eleven dollar entrance fee) but took a walk around the back of the sandstone outcrops. I didn’t see too much except for a few common bush birds and several Rainbow Bee-eaters.

In the afternoon I went to look for the sewage works just off Ivanhoe Road. I couldn’t find them at first and spent a while wandering along various tracks through the bush. This was rather good as it turned out with the highlight being very good views of three Brush Cuckoos, including a scaly juvenile. Also around were two Olive-backed Orioles and another Star Finch. Eventually I found the sewage works and scoped them from the entrance. Lots of waterbirds were about, with Radjah Shelduck and Plumed Whistling Duck particularly common. There were also several Pied Herons.

It was now time to leave Kununurra and I headed northwest towards Wyndham. I stopped off for a brief look at the ravine at the Grotto, which was rather quiet, before heading down a track towards Parry Creek Farm. I took a wrong turning though and ended up at Marglu Billabong. I didn’t spend long here as I wanted to get back to the farm, but it was a great spot with lots of waterbirds including Pied Heron, Magpie Goose, Nankeen Night Heron and Intermediate Egret. Not for the first time today, getting lost provided success. As I drove back up the hill behind the billabong a large black shape flew purposefully across and, happily, perched in a tree about a hundred metres away. I knew what it was almost immediately but it was good to get prolonged views: a Black Falcon. It sat contentedly in the tree, looking much sleeker than the Brown Falcons I’d been seeing regularly (and which are particularly common around Kununurra).

Eventually I found my way to Parry Creek Farm, a very nice campsite beside a billabong. A few birds were around in the gloom including Nankeen Night Heron and a few Red-tailed Black Cockatoos along the entrance track.

1. Lake Kununurra
2. You know what they say about big feet? That's right - it's probably a Comb-crested Jacana.
3. Bar-shouldered Dove
4. Australian Darter
5. Peaceful Dove

Some shots from Ivanhoe Road:

1. Radjah Shelduck
2. White-breasted Woodswallow, with a bit of pollen on its head.
3&4. Star Finches

And finally,

1. Red-backed Kingfisher
2. Spotted Harrier - this one wasn't in the best of nick

I never cease to be amazed at the quality of your photos Andrew. Certainly adds excitement to the cut-and-thrust of your account. Especially with species I've never seen!:t:

I must say it takes some getting used to - the idea of top notch photos from the professor of listening.

Rob

Great read....ah, Kununurra Lakeside - spent 10 days there waiting for a new head gasket to be road-trained up from Perth on our trip.....luckily there was a great group of people staying at the same time and we had a ball!!