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ZEISS DTI thermal imaging cameras. For more discoveries at night, and during the day.

focus issues (1 Viewer)

jkevin

Member
hi all about reached my last nerve with my pictures.i have a nikon d90 and celestron 100 f-ed, i can get a super sharp picture using the scope and my d90 with 300mm lens. when i mount the camera to the scope via t-ring just can't get the right focus with live view and the eye piece it looks good until i go to download them. granted my eyes are not what they used to be any insight ?
 
The T-ring method generally produces poor results on any scope and is the least desirable method to digiscope. There aren't really any eyepieces that project a flat, distortion free image for large dslr sensors. If you only have the D90 camera then try a short lens like a 28mm, 35mm or 50mm and photograph through the eyepiece. Better still, get a point and shoot camera and use that through the eyepiece.

Paul.
 
The T-ring method generally produces poor results on any scope and is the least desirable method to digiscope. There aren't really any eyepieces that project a flat, distortion free image for large dslr sensors. If you only have the D90 camera then try a short lens like a 28mm, 35mm or 50mm and photograph through the eyepiece. Better still, get a point and shoot camera and use that through the eyepiece.

Paul.

thanks i have a 50 just need to get an adapter to hold the camera? i looked at your pics and setup for your cannon do you have a t ring or are you using a lens?
 
Some eyepieces have a thread under the rubber eyecup and this can then join to the camera lens filter thread via step rings. The older, all metal lenses can take the weight of the camera but modern plastic lenses might need some extra support. Also make sure the lens is in manual focus mode so that it doesn't try and auto focus while joined to an eyepiece. The Baader Hyperion range of eyepieces have threads under the eyecup, there are other makes too. You can hand hold the camera behind the eyepiece and get a rough idea of how pictures will turn out.

My set up is slightly different because I'm using an astronomy refractor as a prime lens. It's a Skywatcher Pro 80ED mounted straight to the camera with no eyepieces or prisms involved. This gives a nice manual focus 600mm lens which rivals any of the big lens makers. There's a whole section on Birdforum devoted to this style of photography if you are interested in having a read. http://www.birdforum.net/forumdisplay.php?f=657

Paul.
 
I'm a bit confused, Paul. Isn't a T-ring what you use to use the scope in prime focus?

A T-ring is threaded and you can screw various adapters into it. On some spotting scopes there is a t-thread which allows a type of sleeve to go over the eyepiece and this lets you do eyepiece projection on a dslr camera.

Paul.
 
Sorry to hear of your problems. I would not rule out the adapter. I see that you tried using LiveView to adjust focus - Why is that not working? Is the problem with both near and far subjects?

Shutter speeds need to be kept high - you are using extreme magnification. I'll assume you are working on a focus problem rather than a soft image caused by movement.
 
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