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Gambia 9th -16th March 2017 Guide Ebou Barry (1 Viewer)

Tully

Well-known member
Trip Report by Mate and Fellow Traveller Garry Wilkinson

"Hello Bottles"

This may seem like a strange title for a report on our field trip to Gambia 9th March- 16th March 2017 but the reason for it will become clear.

Trip participants were Nigel Moore, Martin McClenaghan,William Smiton and myself Garry Wilkinson. We stayed b&b in the Palma Rima Hotel Kololi. Our guide for the week was Ebou Barry and he proved to be an excellent choice and I would say must be one of the best guides in Gambia. We had given Ebou a list of birds we would like to see and he got us virtually all the birds on the list with the exception of Egyptian Plover which we new was highly unlikely so late in the year.

Day one. After a delayed flight due to the French traffic controllers strike, we eventually landed at Banjul three hours later than anticipated. Our first birds at the airport were Long tailed glossy Starling, Pied crow, Hooded Vulture, Yellow billed kite and on our coach journey, White throated bee eater. Alas our coach broke down and we descended into the heat to see what birds we could count before the second coach arrived. Speckled Pigeon, Red eyed dove, Piapiac, Pied Crow, Hoopoe and Cattle Egrets were ticked off.

Arriving at our hotel, the Palma Rima, our hired guide for our trip, Ebou Barry, was waiting to introduce himself. After we settled in Ebou took us out birding that afternoon from 4pm to 7pm to Kotu Creek and we got Pied Kingfisher, Giant Kingfisher, Senegal Thicknee, Senegal Coucal, Double spurred Francolin, Great white Egret, Hadida Ibis, Wattled Plover, Spur Winged Plover, Red Billed Firefinch and Red Cheeked Cordon Bleu. The cycle track gave us Yellow Billed Shrike and Palm Nut Vulture. A walk round the hotel boundary gave us close views of a Pearl Spotted Owlet.
I finished the day with forty two lifers and some good photos of Pied Kingfisher.


Day two.7.30am - 1pm Ebou picked us up at 7.30 and we headed to Brufut Woods. First birds were a perched Lizzard Buzzard and Red Necked Falcon but although close, the light was next to impossible for photographs. African Collared dove, Senegal Parrots, Blue spotted Wood Dove and Black Billed Wood Dove soon followed. Ring Necked Parakeets were in good voice and we got good but brief views of both Green Turaco and Violet Turaco. More doves appeared including African Mourning Dove and the delicate minute Namaqua Dove. We were then taken to see a roosting Long-tailed Nightjar at the base of a tree. The bird was unfazed as we photographed from a few feet away. The beautiful camouflaged markings were superb. Further exploration got us Verreaux's Eagle Owl and White Faced Scops Owls. We had a midday break from 1pm-4pm and Ebou picked us up for what* proved to be an eventful trip along Bund Road.

We stopped near the end of the road for Striated Heron, Great White Pelican, Pink Backed Pelican, Caspian Tern, Grey Headed Gull, Slender Billed Gulls, Gull Billed Terns, and both Black headed Plover and Spur winged Plover. A distant flock of roosting waders on the sand proved to be Kittlitz’s Plovers.

If that wasn't exciting enough on the way back Ebou spotted a single Northern Carmine Bee Eater on a wire. We jumped out and Ebou went into euphoria getting this bird long after they should have migrated and a considerable way south of where they normally are. Two Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters followed by a European Bee-eater appeared alongside and overhead were Barn Swallows, Fanti Sawings and Pallid Swifts. Lifers were now up to 105 and the trip list well over 150.

Day three. A slightly earlier start, Ebou picked us up at 7.15am. On the way to the meeting point we had a number of Piapiacs, Green Wood Hoopoes and several Vervet Green Monkeys. The resident Abyssinian Roller was on the overhead wires outside our hotel. Off we went to Mandinaba and Farasutu Forest and teamed up with Ibrahim the owl man.After grappling with various foliage Ibraham showed us a well hidden African Wood Owl. Immediately, he got us two Greyish Eagle Owls. These were easier to see and we had prolonged scope views. An osprey with a fish landed on a dead tree and was mobbed by Pied crows eventually giving up its dinner. Other birds of prey encountered were Grey Kestrel, Shikra, Dark Chanting Goshawk and African Harrier Hawks (what strange looking birds). Ebou found us a roosting Wahlberg's Eagle and it eventually posed for a photograph. Ibrahim took us to see two White Faced Scops Owl and the finale were two African Scops Owls. As a self confessed owl lover, six owl species in two days was a real treat. We had a short cool drinks break, with Ebou opening all the bottles with his teeth. I think we'll bring a bottle opener next time.

We then headed to Ebou's village for lunch and to meet some of his relatives. A fine curry and rice was enjoyed by most of us although with an onion aversion, I just had the rice. Beautiful and Variable Sunbirds seemed to be everywhere in the village.

Marakissa. As we went through the village a number of children ran up to us broadly smiling. One young boy of about eight years old said to us 'Hello, Bottles'. This unusual salutation turned out to be a simple request for our empty plastic bottles. Marty give the boy one and his face lit up. These people are so poor yet always smiling and seem genuinely happy. I suppose you don't miss what you haven’t got. Ebou found us a Bedouin's Snake Eagle and a Palm Nut Vulture flew close enough for some brief photos. Next bird of prey was a Grasshopper Buzzard and then we had fleeting glimpses of two Stone Partridges which look like small chickens. African Green Pigeons put in an appearance. On the way back we stopped at a wetland were we encountered African Jacana, Hammerkop and several Heron species. Last stop was the Kunta Kinte apartments where we had excellent views of both Little Bee Eater and Greater Painted Snipe.

Tujuring Woods. Here we got both Turacos, both Paradise flycatchers and Black Scimitartbill, Lesser Honeyguide, Western Olivaceous Warbler, Senegal Eremomela and a Common Whitethroat. We arrived at the back of the village and started to walk through the fields. A four hour walk in the searing 40 degrees heat eventually paid off when we had excellent views of two Temminck's Coursers. Northern Wheatear was also seen. It was nearing dark as we walked looking for nightjars, but by now Williams blisters were playing up and Ebou went back to pick him up in the car. On the way back the car lights picked up a nightjar, race unidentified.

Day four. Having the morning off we decided to go by taxi to Abuku Nature reserve. We employed one of the local guides at the reserve who was not great to be fair, but we got some nice birds including great views of Malachite Kingfisher, Common Wattle-eye and Nile Crocodile. Back at the hotel after lunch, we met up with Ebou and headed off to Tanji Fishing village. Numerous birds long on my wish list were ticked off here including Royal Tern, Lesser Crested Tern, Kelp Gull and Grey Headed Gull. The supporting cast included Pink Backed Pelican, Caspian Tern, Slender Billed Gull and Bar Tailed Godwits.

Days five and six. These were spent upriver based at Tendaba Camp. On arrival, again on a hot afternoon, we had two Bronze Winged Coursers above Tendaba Camp. Ebou had suggested an overnight in Georgetown but none of us had brought sufficient extra monies. In the morning Ebou drove from Tendaba towards Georgetown to the Bateling Track. Various stops were made and we had a boat trip probably too late in the afternoon. However, that said we got a number of good birds in the two days. Western banded Snake Eagle, Bateleur Eagle, Martial Eagle, White Backed Night Heron, Little Green Bee Eater, Spur Winged Geese, Black Crowned Cranes, Brown Necked Parrots and Abyssinian Ground Hornbills were just some of the highlights. The Hornbills although huge are difficult to locate but Ebou spotted them from the road.
Our last stop at Pirang Shrimp Farm Ponds wasn't so successful but the Ponds were dry and we did manage Crested Lark, Gull Billed Tern and some African Palm Swifts to go with our first Swallows of the year.

Day seven Kotu Creek.Before breakfast Ebou met us at Kotu Creek bridge where we proceeded to the sewage ponds for White Faced Whistling Ducks, Black Winged Stilts, Little Grebes and a Wood Sandpiper. On our way back to the bridge we had good views of a Yellow Crowned Gonolek and a Black Heron using its umberella technique to fish. On the bridge we had more Pied Kingfishers, Senegal Thicknee's, Wire Tailed Swallows and good photo opportunities from two Malachite Kingfishers.
We returned to our hotel and said our goodbyes to Ebou, an exceptional guide and one we would have no hesitation in recommending for any serious birders or photographers. A total of 251 species were recorded by all of us and two species only seen by one observer. I got a total of 162 lifers. Considering I have been birding for over 50 years this was exceptional although it was my first trip to sub-saharan Africa.
A huge thank you to Ebou for all his hard work to ensure a memorable trip for us all.

Trip list
Northern Gannet
Little Grebe
Great White Pelican
Pink Backed Pelican
Long Tailed Cormorant
Great Cormorant
African Darter
Black Crowned Night Heron
White Backed Night Heron
Green Backed Heron
Squacco Heron
Cattle Egret
Black Heron
Western Reef Heron
Little Egret
Great White Egret
Intermediate Egret
Grey Heron
Black Headed Heron
Purple Heron
Goliath Heron
Striated Heron
Hammerkop
Marabou Stork
Yellow Billed Stork
Hadada Ibis
Sacred Ibis
African Spoonbill
Spur Winged Goose
White Faced Whistling Duck
Osprey
Palm Nut Vulture
Hooded Vulture
African White Backed Vulture
Ruppell's Griffon Vulture
Black Kite
Yellow Billed Kite
Marsh Harrier
Beaudouin's Snake Eagle
Brown Snake Eagle
Western Banded Snake Eagle
Bateleur Eagle
Long Crested Eagle
African Harrier Hawk
Grasshopper Buzzard
Lizard Buzzard
Dark Chanting Goshawk
Shikra
African Hawk Eagle
Wahlberg's Eagle
Martial Eagle
Common Kestrel
Grey Kestrel
Red Necked Falcon
Lanner Falcon
Double Spurred Franklin
Helmeted Guineafowl
Stone Partridge
Black Crake
Common Moorhen
Purple Swamphen
Black Crowned Crane
African Jacana
Greater Painted Snipe
Oystercatcher
Black Winged Stilt
Senegal Thicknee
Temminck's Courser
Bronze Winged Courser
Ringed Plover
Kittlitz's Plover
African Wattled Plover
Black Headed Lapwing
Spur Winged Plover
Grey Plover
Bar Tailed Godwit
Black Tailed Godwit
Whimbrel
Sanderling
Redshank
Greenshank
Marsh Sandpiper
Wood Sandpiper
Common Sandpiper
Turnstone
Common Snipe
Kelp Gull
Lesser Black Backed Gull
Slender Billed Gull
Yellow Legged Gull
Grey Headed Gull
Black Headed gull
Caspian Tern
Royal Tern
Lesser Crested Tern
Gull Billed Tern
Sandwich Tern
Blue Spotted Wood Dove
Black Billed Wood Dove
Namaqua Dove
Laughing Dove
African Green Pigeon
Bruce's Green Pigeon
Speckled Pigeon
Rock Dove
Red Eyed Dove
African Mourning Dove
African Collared Dove
Vinaceous dove
Rose Ringed Parakeet
Senegal Parrot
Brown Necked Parrot
Green Turaco
Violet Turaco
Western Grey Plantain- Eater
Senegal Coucal
Barn Owl
African Wood Owl
Greyish Eagle Owl
Verreaux's Eagle Owl
African Scops Owl
Northern White Faced Owl
Pearl Spotted Owlet
Long Tailed Nightjar
Standard Winged Nightjar
Mottled Spinetail
Little Swift
White Rumped Swift
Pallid Swift
Alpine Swift
African Palm Swift
Malachite Kingfisher
Blue Breasted Kingfisher
Giant Kingfisher
Pied Kingfisher
Striped kingfisher
Little Bee Eater
Swallow Tailed Bee Eater
White Throated Bee Eater
Little Green Bee Eater
Blue Cheeked Bee Eater
European Bee Eater
Northern Carmine Bee Eater
Rufous Crowned Roller
Blue Bellied Roller
Abyssinian Roller
Broad Billed Roller
Green Wood Hoopoe
Black Scimitarbill
Hoopoe
Red Billed Hornbill
Pied Hornbill
African Grey Hornbill
Abyssinian Ground Hornbill
Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird
Vieillot’s Barbet
Bearded Barbet
Lesser Honeyguide
Greater Honeyguide
Cardinal Woodpecker
Fine Spotted Woodpecker
Grey Woodpecker
Buff Spotted Woodpecker
Crested Lark
Fanti Saw-Wing
Sand Martin
House Martin
Red-rumped Swallow
Rufous-chested Swallow
Mosque Swallow
Pied-winged Swallow
Wire-tailed Swallow
Barn Swallow
White Wagtail
Yellow Wagtail*
Tree Pipit
Little Greenbull
Grey Headed Bristlebill
Yellow Throated Leaflove
Common Bulbul
Snowy Crowned Robin Chat
White Crowned Robin Chat
Nightingale
African Thrush
Northern Wheatear
Western Olivaceous Warbler
Melodious Warbler
Willow Warbler
Chiffchaff
Common Whitethroat
Subalpine Warbler
Senegal Eremonela
Northern Crombec
Grey Backed Camaroptera
Tawny flanked Prinia
Zitting Cisticola
Singing Cisticola*
Red Winged Warbler
Yellow Breasted Apalis
Oriole Warbler
Northern Black Flycatcher
African Paradise Flycatcher*
Red Bellied Paradise Flycatcher*
Hybrid Red Bellied/ African Paradise Flycatcher*
Common Wattle Eye
Senegal Batis
Brown Babbler
Black Capped Babbler
White Shouldered Black Tit
Yellow Penduline Tit
Pygmy Sunbird
Mouse brown Sunbird
Scarlet chested Sunbird
Collared Sunbird
Copper Sunbird
Beautiful Sunbird
Variable Sunbird
Splendid Sunbird
Yellow Billed Shrike
Grey Headed Bush Shrike
Woodchat shrike
Brubru
Yellow Crowned Gonolek
Northern Puffback
Black Crowned Tchagra
African Golden Oriole
Fork Tailed Drongo
Pied Crow
Piapiac
Purple Glossy Starling
Bronze Tailed Glossy Starling
Greater Blue Eared Starling
Lesser Blue Eared Starling
Long Tailed Glossy Starling
Splendid Glossy Starling
Yellow Billed Oxpecker
Northern Grey Headed Sparrow
House Sparrow
Bush Petronia
White Billed Buffalo Weaver
Chestnut Crowned Sparrow weaver
Little Weaver
Black Necked Weaver
Village Weaver
Black Headed Weaver
Red Billed Quelea*
Northern Red Bishop
Black-winged bishop
Western Bluebill
Red Cheeked Cordon-Bleu
Lavender Waxbill
Orange Cheeked Waxbill
Black Rumped Waxbill
Red Billed Firefinch
Black faced Firefinch*
Bronze Manikin
Pin Tailed Whydah
Yellow Fronted Canary

Mammals
Sun Squirrel*
Ground Squirrel*
Baboon
Green Vervet Monkey
Mongoose
Hippopotamus*

Reptiles
Nile Crocodile
Agama Lizzard

Butterflies
African Monarch

Others
Fiddler Crab
Mud Skipper

Total 251 species including 162 lifers for me.

I cannot recommend Ebou Barry enough. If you are prepared to put in that bit extra work like walking for three or four hours in temperatures of up to 40 degrees at that time of year, he will get you the bird you are looking for. Arrange an itinerary beforehand and agree a price. He will tell you what birds are to be had and suggest certain trips etc. He does have his quirks and if you smoke be prepared to share, (Buy more in the duty free, you'll need them) and he's like me when he's driving, he's that busy looking for good birds he nearly drives off the road sometimes. He was however true to his word in timings, always punctual. We had given him a list and he got us virtually every bird on it. It was probably a bit late in the year to go. Next time we will aim for Nov/Dec.

Garry Wilkinson*
NIOC Club Chairman
Hillsborough Co Down Northern Ireland
 
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