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Settings for an accurate Histogram (1 Viewer)

Roy C

Occasional bird snapper
I have used the ETR (Expose to the Right) method for some time now and of course to use this you have to check your histogram and tweak the exposure as required.
Sometimes I have noticed that the histogram you see from the camera does not always seem to match-up with the histogram you see when you view the RAW file in your RAW converter.

I just came across THIS from Luminous Landscape which gives some interesting insights into creating an accurate histogram.

I certainly will try what they advocate -What do you think?
 
Roy,


I think that histograms should be used for a visual check for exposure only. Not touching contrast control (or any other) is basic common sense.

Any image that has to go for further reproduction increases in contrast, density etc, by as much as 25%, that’s why you see so many dull and dark images reproduced. You have to compensate for the increase, which is best done at postproduction.

LL recommends a photographing a tonal strip, again its basic stuff that every body should do.

Unfortunately: -

1. You increase by photographing the strip
2. It’s awkward and not accurate to use in the field.

Professionally we apply the numbers of a standard strip to images, this way you get the full tonal range.

RAW files should be what the name says, untouched, packed full of information.
 
Roy,


I think that histograms should be used for a visual check for exposure only. Not touching contrast control (or any other) is basic common sense.

Any image that has to go for further reproduction increases in contrast, density etc, by as much as 25%, that’s why you see so many dull and dark images reproduced. You have to compensate for the increase, which is best done at postproduction.

LL recommends a photographing a tonal strip, again its basic stuff that every body should do.

Unfortunately: -

1. You increase by photographing the strip
2. It’s awkward and not accurate to use in the field.

Professionally we apply the numbers of a standard strip to images, this way you get the full tonal range.

RAW files should be what the name says, untouched, packed full of information.
Hi pe'rigin, I am not sure that you are interpreting the LL post in the same way as I am.
As I see it, changing the contrast in the camera only applies to jpegs therefore the Raw file is not effected. The point being made is that if you shoot in Raw then the histogram on the camera is not an accurate representation of the Raw file, it is an histogram of a jpeg!

Setting the in camera jpeg contrast to zero give you a better indication of the exposure of the Raw file


"I think that histograms should be used for a visual check for exposure only. Not touching contrast control (or any other) is basic common sense".


Using the histogram as a visual check for exposure only is exactly what I do in an attempt to 'shoot to the right' BUT if you shoot in RAW, then you are not seeing an accurate histogram - this is why LL advocate that you should change the in camera jpeg contrast to more represent the Raw file.
 
Roy, you are exactly right. The preview picture and histogram that you see on the LCD of your camera is a JPEG representation of the RAW data (and stored as the preview thumbnail within the RAW file). This preview is prepared in camera using the picture control settings such as contrast, saturation, picture style etc.

Tweaking these settings does change the preview and histogram (and therefore blinking highlight warning) but does not change the RAW data itself. Some RAW processing products (e.g. DPP and Breezebrowser) can use these settings when you process on your PC, but most do not (e.g. ACR, Capture1).

I have my Canon bodies set to faithful picture style and low contrast - I think it allows you to get a better idea of exposure from the histogram and highlight 'blinkies'.
 
I have my Canon bodies set to faithful picture style and low contrast - I think it allows you to get a better idea of exposure from the histogram and highlight 'blinkies'.
I think I will try that Mark, I usually use the default Standard picture style but just tried a few test shots with Standard v's Faithful (with low contrast) and the histogram certainly looked different.
 
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