• Welcome to BirdForum, the internet's largest birding community with thousands of members from all over the world. The forums are dedicated to wild birds, birding, binoculars and equipment and all that goes with it.

    Please register for an account to take part in the discussions in the forum, post your pictures in the gallery and more.
ZEISS DTI thermal imaging cameras. For more discoveries at night, and during the day.

Lumix 100-300 tips please (1 Viewer)

Mad_Sunday

Well-known member
Hi all,
I have just purchased a used Lumix G1, the idea originally was to use this with my existing legacy manual lenses and re-invigorate my photography/bird watching interests.
However, after seeing the truly wonderful photos on here and on other forums taken with the Lumix 100-300mm lens, I just had to have one! I would love to get some tips on using this lens/camera combination from forum members, as I suspect "Auto" is not going to get the best from them. Should I use shutter priority to guarantee speed, manual focus for accuracy etc?
I'm in the UK so sunny days are rare ;)

Any advice gratefully recieved.

Regards, Pete.
 
Pete,
I have that lens but paired with the GH2 and as such not completely comparable.

On the GH2, I mainly use shutter priority and auto iso to ensure that I still would be able to correctly expose.

I find that autofocus works but not perfectly always, and the response is to take many photos every time a bird allows that.

The GH2 seems to mostly try to produce pictures a little darker than my preference, so adding a little ev is part of my routine.

Niels
 
I use it with the G3 in shutter priority mode. I rarely use manual focus; auto focus is quicker and I have trouble gauging the accuracy of manual focus in electronic viewfinders. Though of course as with most cameras there are situations in which the autofocus focuses on the wrong subject.

One thing I like about the lens is the ease with which you can zoom. It is much easier to find the bird when you are zoomed out, but you can then quickly zoom in for a closer shot.

One thing to be careful of is the image stabilization switch on the side. It is easy to accidentally turn it to the off position when picking up the camera.

If the G1 has a teleconverter setting like the G3 and other panny models I suggest you use it. It gives you twice the magnification, which I find a big help in "pulling in" distant birds. The trade off though is you have to use small pic size and can't shoot in raw. (Note what I am referring to is NOT digital zoom and does not degrade image quality.)

Hope this helps,
Jim
 
Last edited:
There was another thread on focusing, but to repeat: I have the camera set to allow AF+MF (don't know if the G1 allows that option), and with central image magnification if MF is used. I also use burst mode (medium setting, so I get a short live view between photos, again don't know how the G1 compares). I usually allow AF to do its thing and take a short burst (2-3 photos), and repeat that a couple of times, and then if the bird is still there, I see if I can do even better with manual focus.

As opposed to Jim I shoot RAW, different trade offs.

Niels
 
Depends a lot on the situation. The bird being a little further away (where your use of the tele-extender would help the most) is one situation and especially if combined with flat uninspiring light, I think I can sometimes improve. If I had allowed the AF system a few more times, maybe the end result would be just as good? However, in this situation, it is often that the focus square is a little too large to ensure that the focus is on the head/eye rather than another part of the bird, and that is the type of thing where MF can help.

Another situation is the one you already mentioned, disturbing items close to the bird, where I can make sure if the AF did get it right.

Niels
 
If the G1 has a teleconverter setting like the G3 and other panny models I suggest you use it.
Jim, I use a panasonic DMC G3 for digiscoping an was thinking about buying this 100-300 mm lens for fast moving and flying birds. I have read that when zoomed to 300 mm, the sharpness isn't great, but I don't know if that's really visible in practice (as opposed to testing situations). What is your experience with this zoom level? Does panasonic sell a 2x teleconverter, or do you use an other brand?
 
Jim, I use a panasonic DMC G3 for digiscoping an was thinking about buying this 100-300 mm lens for fast moving and flying birds. I have read that when zoomed to 300 mm, the sharpness isn't great, but I don't know if that's really visible in practice (as opposed to testing situations). What is your experience with this zoom level? Does panasonic sell a 2x teleconverter, or do you use an other brand?

Hi Jan,

--The teleconverter I was referring to is not a device but a setting you access through the camera's menu system. I believe the official name is something like "extended teleconverter." With it enabled and the 100-300mm lens you have a max zoom of 1200mm (35mm equivalent), which is the same as low power digiscoping (about 24x on a scope).

--I haven't noticed any particular degradation in sharpness at the high end of the zoom range. Though I've read sharpness is improved if the aperture is stopped down a bit, and my truly sharp shots are generally in good light.

--I've gotten some shots of birds in flight with the camera that I've been quite pleased with, but they are almost all larger birds (hawks, skuas, pelicans, shearwaters). If you are keen on getting smaller birds, I think a DSLR is a better choice.

Best,
Jim
 
Niels and Jim, thank you for that input. It seems my guess work was on the right track, but as you're both aware I'm sure, experience (in all things) is a the key to reliable success, your generosity in supplying your experience is most welcome.

I'm going to Mallorca for a holiday next week, I'll mostly be just chilling out but know only too well, what a wonderful place it is for birding. Hopefully, the G1, 100-300 and the advice you have given will enable a few good pictures.

I have seen some posts regarding some form of "digital" zoom facility, following your comments I'll look into it regarding the G1. Who knows, considering I already have the lens, I may soon invest in a G2/G3 :)

Regards and thanks, Pete

Edit, it seems the G1 does have the extended zoom function as well as digital zoom...
 

Attachments

  • panasonic-g1-scr7.jpg
    panasonic-g1-scr7.jpg
    16.9 KB · Views: 88
Last edited:
I have been reading in the Panasonic G3 manual and found that the 2x tele-extender can only be used under the scn (scene) and automatic function. Does this mean that I cannot choose for aperture or shutter priority when using the 100-300 mm lens plus the tele-extender?
 
I have been reading in the Panasonic G3 manual and found that the 2x tele-extender can only be used under the scn (scene) and automatic function. Does this mean that I cannot choose for aperture or shutter priority when using the 100-300 mm lens plus the tele-extender?

Hi,

No. You can use the extended tele-conversion mode when using aperture or shutter priority and do not need to use scene or intelligent auto mode.

I see the statement you are referring to, however, and understand why you were misled. At least in English, the statement is confusing and ambiguous.
"(You can only use the Optical Zoom in [iA ], and the Optical Zoom, the Extended Tele Conversion in [SCN] mode)"
(p. 71 of Advanced G3 guide). I believe what this statement means is that in iA mode you can use optical zoom, but not Extended Tele Conversion mode or digital zoom; and that in scene mode you can use optical zoom and Extended Tele Conversion mode but not digital zoom.

Best,
Jim
 
Last edited:
i use this lens with Olympus EPL cameras 1 and 5, now i have it for 2 years.

first as said put it on both AF and MF as the lens might sometimes be slow so you can adjust the focus manually, but do this while the shutter is pressed half way then you can refocus for the sharpest image possible.

second if you are using a tripod or mono-pod turn the OIS off.

third do not put a filter on it it will slow the AF so much and will reduce the IQ badly.

fourth since i shoot here where there is always plenty of sun shutter speed is not a problem so mostly i use aperture priority and keep the ISO as low as possible just enough to give me no less than 1/1000sec, to ensure the sharpest image possible.

in short the lens is great you will love it and get well with it so quickly.

here is one of my latest shots, at 1/2000 sec, handheld.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/ammadoux/9225476044/
 
Yes Jim, that was the statement I meant. Thanks for the clarification.

Very nice photograph Ammadoux. I also looked at your other photograph's on flickr. I am really impressed.
 
i use this lens with Olympus EPL cameras 1 and 5, now i have it for 2 years.

first as said put it on both AF and MF as the lens might sometimes be slow so you can adjust the focus manually, but do this while the shutter is pressed half way then you can refocus for the sharpest image possible.

second if you are using a tripod or mono-pod turn the OIS off.

third do not put a filter on it it will slow the AF so much and will reduce the IQ badly.

fourth since i shoot here where there is always plenty of sun shutter speed is not a problem so mostly i use aperture priority and keep the ISO as low as possible just enough to give me no less than 1/1000sec, to ensure the sharpest image possible.

in short the lens is great you will love it and get well with it so quickly.

here is one of my latest shots, at 1/2000 sec, handheld.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/ammadoux/9225476044/

Thanks for the info :)

We fly out to Mallorca for a holiday early am tomorrow, camera is packed so hope to put the tips to the test. I'll upload any passable ones on here ;)

Regards, Pete
 
My 100-300 mm lens for the panasonic DMC G3 arrived today. I already took some shots on a helicopter, a pigeon and an airplane and everything works fine! I laso tried the Extended Tele Conversion. I can set it on 'on', but I don't see any difference when I take a picture with the extender 'on' or 'off'. Is there something else I should do except turning it 'on'? I shoot in aperture priority.
 
I laso tried the Extended Tele Conversion. I can set it on 'on', but I don't see any difference when I take a picture with the extender 'on' or 'off'. Is there something else I should do except turning it 'on'? I shoot in aperture priority.

You need to change to small picture size and cannot shoot in RAW; there are a few other settings that can render it ineffective, e.g. burst mode settings IIRC. These are noted in the manual.

Best,
Jim
 
Last edited:
Here's the airplane and the helicppter I photographed to day. My first photo's with the 100-300 mm lens. I didn't use the teleconverter.
 

Attachments

  • helicopter_small.jpg
    helicopter_small.jpg
    93.9 KB · Views: 214
  • vliegtuig_small.jpg
    vliegtuig_small.jpg
    46 KB · Views: 169
And here is pigeon I just photographed, using the extra teleconverter zoom. Only resized the photo.
 

Attachments

  • P1070674_small.jpg
    P1070674_small.jpg
    113.8 KB · Views: 345
Warning! This thread is more than 9 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top