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Spanish Pyrenees & Steppes 28/2/2016-4/3/2016 (1 Viewer)

Digbert Doobrey

Well-known member
This is a quick report of my first bird trip with a birding company that I recently completed. The company was Oriole Birding and they were certainly a great choice. More about them later.

Day One

Met up with our small group of five plus our guide Ashley for the flight from Gatwick to Barcelona at 7.30. My brain was awake but my body wasn't however adrenaline and excitement was getting me through the airport and flight and we were soon in Barcelona to meet up with our Spanish guide Carles and pick up the mini bus.

Our first birding stop was almost straight away. We left the airport and took the two minute drive to the Llobregat delta. This is a wetland that is literally right next to the airport and we were soon enjoying our first birds. These included Crag Martin, male Red-Crested Pochard, Little Bittern, Great Egret and a female Marsh harrier. Moustached Warbler was a target but despite hearing one bird we couldn' get onto it.

Then it was an hour or so's drive to our next spot. On the way the people on the left hand side of the bus enjoyed a displaying pair of Bonelli's Eagle but not me I was on the right hand side. Never mind I'd get my turn later with other species. So we then made it up to the Pyrenees close to the town of Baga and drove up 1700m to find our next target Snow Finch. Carles had previously found a flock of around 70 birds and after a short but very cold walk he again located the birds and we all enjoyed great views despite grappling with near frostbite. Raven, Fieldfare and Red-billed Chough were also noted.

Then it was a two and a half our drive to the village of Arbanies near Huesca to our hotel the Casa Oliban. Here the owner Marta cooked us the first of her delicious evening meals and her cooking throughout our four night stay was to die for. On our last night here She made us a beef in mushroom sauce dish followed by a cheesecake that was like angels tap dancing in your mouth. Anyway a long day over everyone crashed out eagerly anticipating the rest of the holiday.

Day Two

A pre breakfast and very cold walk just down from the hotel gave us brief views of a Southern Grey Shrike and our first Spotless Starlings then it was onto our first destination. This was the Los Mallos de Riglos which are the breath taking sandstone peaks in the pre Pyrenees. Its hard to imaging a more picturesque place to go birding and the scenery itself is worth the trip. Fine views were had of Griffon Vultures as they cruised around the huge rock, often landing and sometimes passing low enough to afford close obsevation and photo opportunities. These birds were a constant presence throughout the trip as large numbers migrating north up through the mountains. A small group of Black Storks were seen also migrating north and they seemed to be struggling in the windy conditions. I know how they felt! A smart Blue rock Thrush was noted on a rooftop along with Sardinian Warbler and Dartford Warbler in the scrub. Then a very confiding Alpine Accentor showed very well at the foot of the mountain. However despite much trying our main target was leading us a dance and it took a couple of hours before Carles finally got onto it. Wallcreeper is a lovely striking little bird but very hard to pick out on a mountainside. Even when I could spot it with my naked eye it was very hard to track with my bins. Luckily Ashley and Carles stayed on it and eventually I nailed it.

After lunch we journeyed up the Hecho valley. Carles spotted a different raptor and we all jumped out of the mini bus to get onto it. It was my first Lammergeier a sub adult. However as soon as we got it in our bins a juvenile Golden Eagle shot out and mobbed it. As this was also a lifer for me I couldn't believe my luck. What a super days birding and it wasn't over yet. Further up the valley two more lifers appeared in the form of Black Kite and Hawfinch and a large flock of Red-billed Choughs all gave great views.

We ended the day at Embalse de Sotonera. This is a wetland site known well for hosting huge flocks of Common Cranes on their way through on migration. We eventually found the flock in the far distance huddled down against the trees. Heavy winds made birding difficult but we had also found a large flock Rock Sparrow on the powerlines and added male and female Hen Harrier to the ever expanding Raptor list.

Day Three

Today we confined birding to areas close to the large town of Huesco but this still included a variety of habitats. We headed out to the rocky gorge of Vadiello to try again for Wallcreeper and hit bullseye almost straight away. How Ashley spotted this little cracker whilst steering the minibus round the winding valley I'll never know but he did and we all enjoyed very close views of this little stunner which seemed to contrast even better than yesterday with the colours and contours of the sandstone rock. Possibly because it was located in a far more smaller and enclosed area just added to the appeal. A little further up the valley Carles then spotted another lammergeier. This for me was bird of the trip as it was a full adult and it gleamed in full plummage as we scoped it perched up on the mountainside. Its mate then flew over and both birds departed out over the ridge. However my first Firecrest then popped up so it was still smiles all round. Short toed Treecreeper and Red Squirrel were also spotted in the valley.

Next it was off to the Castillo of Montearagon. Ruins like this in the UK would be swamped by coach parties but we had the place all to ourselves. Even without the birding the panaramic views afforded here are amazing, but our guides soon had us onto Black Wheatear and Thekla Lark to add to the lifer list.

Our next stop was a wetland. Sarinena lake made a change from the windswept mountains, hills and valleys. Bluethroat was the big target here but despite everyone trying their best we couldnt get onto one. However good views of Penduline Tit and a cracking male Bearded Tit plus Pintail, Cettis Warbler, a pair of Kingfishers and several flying White stork were had and Marsh Harriers seemed to be everywhere. We then visited a small reserve at Alberca de Loreta where the highlight was watching distant but immense flocks of Common Crane flying north.
 
Great birding. Not really 'done' the Huesca area but Sarinena and Monegros further south are awesome...

Wallcreeper can be suprisingly difficult to pick up or even describe where they are. Should rephrase that they can be easy in flight to pick up but then quick to dissappear when they land! I've done it three times to my father - find a bird that he has failed to see and once to a friend. With my friend we had three scopes, and bins, under a cliff face for 2 five second views an hour apart...

Can't wait for the rest.
 
Day Four

Off early to a Ski Resort close to the French border at a resort town of Astun. The whole place looked more like Switzerland than Spain and we passed by a very eye-catching train station that must have been bringing Ski-ing tourists to the Pyrenees for over a hundred years. It appeared out of place as the rest of the town seemed to be made up of modern flats built to house the holidaying skiers. Anyway we were not here to ski and I certainly have no desire to watch my legs go flying off down the snow covered mountain and end up being wrapped round a tree. We were here for the Alpine Choughs and it didnt take long to find them. In fact they find you. Especially when your guide opens a packet of crisps and scatters the contents around the car park. The choughs are accustomed to the tourists here and hang around the hotel roof tops waiting to pick up scraps just like your local Magpies and Crows. A few more Alpine Accentors were also noted around the resort.

As there are not many other birds this high up we soon headed back down the valley and spotted a Chamois half way down the slope as we went. A quick stop at a small river brought us Dipper and Grey Wagtail and another stunning adult Lammergeier flew right over our heads.

After stopping for a quick coffee and a walk round the citadel in the town of Jaca we visited a small park which is noted for its small passerines. The park didn't let us down as we picked up Coal Tit, Crested Tit, Serin, Firecrest and Short toed Treecreeper.

We then took a road up to Oroel, a pine covered mountain, to look out for Black Woodpecker. This was a well known sight for this bird and it had been seen on previous tours. We covered a small area of the forest and tried a nesting hole in the woods but unfortunately no bird would show. Oh well cant win 'em all!

However back to another spot east of Sabinanigo brought me another raptor lifer in the shape of a distant Egyptian Vulture. Another great spot from Carles. Another cracking Golden Eagle was also spotted nearby.

We ended the day at the Salto de Roldan viewpoint to check for more raptors but the wind was just too strong and all we could do was hold on to our benny hats. However on the way up the mountain we had found a large flock of mixed buntings including Corn Bunting, Cirl Bunting, and several gorgeous Yellowhammers.

Day Five

Another early start as we said goodbye to Marta and her scrumptous cooking and off we went to the steppes of Belchite near Zaragoza. We headed to the SEO reserve at El Planeron to look for Duponts Lark, the rare speciality bird typical of this enviroment. Despite some intense searching we could not find one however we did enjoy close views of Calandra Lark and Lesser Short toed Lark. We also found a small flock of Common Cranes resting by a small lake and these gave much closer views than those earlier in the trip. A pair of migrating Stone Curlew were a bonus.

We then drove to our new hotel for our last night's stay. This was a small but charming little motel hidden away behind a petrol station! It also had an anti tank gun in the courtyard outside our rooms. Not sure what that was doing there but not to worry it wasnt loaded.

Back out to the steppe habitat. This time we went to Los Manegros to look for Bustards and once again Carles came up with the goods as he spotted a distant flock of Great Bustards. Ashley drove round to get a better view and we then managed to count 20 birds. Another cracking lifer. We also tried for Little Bustards but we were not so lucky with those. However this was tempered by spotting several Black-bellied Sandgrouse. These birds were very flighty but we still managed to get good views of one or two small flocks. Two more Egyptian Vultures also added to yet another great days birding. We finished by going back to El Planeron to try again for Duponts Lark. Still couldnt get it but on the way back there another Golden Eagle and Southern Grey Shrike kept us smiling.

Day Six

Ashley decided that before heading back to Barcelona airport we would try for the Lark one more time. Good views of Black bellied Sandgrouse were had but again despite more than one bird singing we could not get onto them. Then eventually Ashley spotted a Duponts Lark on a patch of grass calling about 70 yards away. We then all had good views of the bird in the scope. However after we had all got back in the van and headed off to the airport we then bizarrely spotted another Duponts Lark feeding right by the roadside just yards away from the right side of the van where I was sitting so we stayed for another ten minutes enjoying cracking view of this rare and supposedly shy bird. The bird was completely undisturbed by the van and carried on feeding right in front of us. A great finale to a great first birding trip.

I have to say I thoroughly enjoyed my first birding tour and would recommend it to any birder both amateur (like me) or highly experienced. I know its always great to find your own birds but both Ashley and Carles's knowledge was such a huge asset to our birding. Oriole birding like to keep the numbers low so that everyone gets a chance to share in the days sightings and their prices seem very reasonable when I've compared them to other companies. I'll certainly be using them again if I get the chance.

Here is the trip list. Lifers in bold.

Little Grebe
Great Crested Grebe
Great Cormorant
Little Bittern
Cattle Egret
Great Egret
Grey Heron
White Stork
Black Stork
Gadwall
Mallard
Northern Pintail
Common Teal
Northern Shoveler
Red Crested Pochard
Red Kite
Black Kite
Lammergeier
Griffon Vulture
Egyptian Vulture
Marsh Harrier
Hen Harrier
Sparrowhawk
Common Buzzard
Golden Eagle
Common Kestrel
Peregrine
Red-legged Partridge
Common Moorhen
Eurasian Coot
Common Crane
Great Bustard
Northern Lapwing
Common Snipe
Common Greenshank
Green Sandpiper
Wood Sandpiper
Stone Curlew
Yellow-legged Gull
Black-headed Gull
Black-bellied Sandgrouse
Woodpigeon
Collared Dove
Rock Dove
Common Kingfisher
Green Woodpecker
Great-spotted Woodpecker
Dupont's Lark
Calandra Lark
Lesser Short-toed Lark
Crested Lark
Thekla Lark
Crag Martin
House Martin
Barn Swallow
Meadow Pipit
Water Pipit
White Wagtail
Grey Wagtail
Dipper
Wren
Dunnock
Alpine Accentor
Robin
Black Redstart
Common Stonechat
Black Wheatear
Blue Rock Thrush
Blackbird
Fieldfare
Song Thrush
Redwing
Mistle Thrush
Cetti's Warbler
Blackcap
Sardinian Warbler
Dartford Warbler
Common Chiffchaff
Goldcrest
Firecrest
Long-tailed Tit
Crested Tit
Coal Tit
Blue Tit
Great Tit
Penduline Tit
Bearded Tit
Wallcreeper
Short-toed Treecreeper
Southern Grey Shrike
Magpie
Red-billed Chough
Alpine Chough
Jackdaw
Carrion Crow
Raven
Spotless Starling
Common Starling
House Sparrow
Rock Sparrow
Snow Finch
Chaffinch
European Serin
Greenfinch
Goldfinch
Siskin
Linnet
Common Crossbill
Hawfinch
Yellowhammer
Cirl Bunting
Reed Bunting
Corn Bunting
 
Great report, brings back the excitement of birding those areas. Took me two trips to get those goodies and I still need Snowfinch.

You clearly enjoyed it, really lovely read.
 
Thanks. Our UK guide invited Carles from Barcelona Birding Point along on our trip and his knowledge of where to get birds like Snow Finch was second to none. Anyone looking for a guide to take them birding in Catalonia should contact him.

Reading back my report it would seem that I might have made the impression that the weather was a problem. It certainly wasn't. Obviously the higher up the Pyrenees we went the lower the temperature dropped and also on the steppe and in the valleys the winds could be a little overbearing at times. However it never detracted from our enjoyment and there was plenty of great birding to be had while staying nice and warm in the mini van. Most of the time the weather was fine with very little rain and plenty of warm bright sunshine.
 
We missed Sandgrouse first time round and Great Bustard. Dad had been in the 80's/90's when El Planeron wasn't on the radar and Lomaza(?) wasn't next to a main road so he wanted to return to some of the old haunts (that said we did get DLark there). Well we did have a distant flock but too distant to identify because of the haze. I loved exploring there - on my third visit I crisscrossed the main roads for 10 hours looking for GB only to find 3 after ten minutes the next day!

It does seem that most birding groups desend on Lecera. The accomodation is really fantastic but the food in the adjacent service station appalling. I'm not a fussy eater (my death row last meal would be Bolognase or Curry) but it did leave a lot to be desired - I guess 11€ for three courses including wine meant it was never going to be gastronomic and I'm sure some nights the menu would have been ok - when I sent the raw, deep fried, pork back they said I wanted it better cooked because I was english I said it was because I wanted to live!
 
Wallcreeper can be suprisingly difficult to pick up or even describe where they are. Should rephrase that they can be easy in flight to pick up but then quick to dissappear when they land!

To prove a point I sat under a cliff yesterday listening to one but couldn't find it!! I moved to four or five different angles but still couldn't see it - the last of which I could see the whole cliff.
 
Thanks for your comments. It's a bit of a struggle to upload photos on my computer but if you check out the Oriole Birding website they have a report of the same trip on there with some good pics.
 
plenty of food for thought, staying in jaca for a week in may, looking forward to it even more now although will be trying to find birds ourselves. thanks for posting.
 
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