Tord
Well-known member
Thanks,
You are right about the deer. My bad, I copied and pasted from the wrong window.
/Tord
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Canon S95 for digiscoping (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter SteveClifton
- Start date
You are right about the deer. My bad, I copied and pasted from the wrong window.
/Tord
davidblades
Well-known member
Guys
Can I ask please.... re the S95
When using it for digiscoping do you use any form of cable release for firing the shutter or just the shutter button??
Thank you in advance
David
Can I ask please.... re the S95
When using it for digiscoping do you use any form of cable release for firing the shutter or just the shutter button??
Thank you in advance
David
Tord
Well-known member
I started with a cable remote control mounted with a velcro, but unfortunately the velcro is obstructing the zoom control and some of the controls on the rear of the camera body and gave up after a short time.
I therefore use the timer, preset on one second delay and shooting a sequence (found 3 shots usually a good compromise between waste and likelihood of getting a decent shot).
Firing manually may work, but due to high risk of blur due to camera shake, shooting a sequence is highly recommended. Second shot and beyond should be sharp.
/Tord
SteveClifton
Well-known member
Use the front lens ring, and, as you said, the rear one to control the number of shots.
Don't forget to save this setting in the menu, or it will revert back to 10 seconds next time you use the camera.
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Great stuff thanks for the prompt reply steve.
antshrike69
Well-known member
This thread has been very useful so thanks Steve in particular!
What do you use to connect the Jackar adapator to the lens of the scope itself? I've always hand held for digiscoping before so all this is new to me.
What do you use to connect the Jackar adapator to the lens of the scope itself? I've always hand held for digiscoping before so all this is new to me.
John Fleet
Finally reached 300!
I use a simple step down ring - my Baader 13mm has 42 mm threads so after a couple of false starts when I managed to get thread sizes wrong and then buy a step rather than a step down ring I'm sorted. The technique for screwing onto the lens is to loosen the locking collet on my PF65ED scope so that the lens (with step down ring in place) can screw into the adaptor - that way you're not rotating the camera/adaptor combination which would be very awkward.
SteveClifton
Well-known member
I use a Swarovski DCA adapter:
http://www.warehouseexpress.com/buy-Swarovski-Digital-Camera-Adaptor/p1002355?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=swarovski%20DCA&utm_campaign=F%20Spotting%20Scopes%20/%20Digiscoping&cm_mmc=google%20Warehouse%20Express%20-%20Binoculars%20%26%20Scopes-_-F%20Spotting%20Scopes%20/%20Digiscoping-_-Swarovski%20Swarovski%20Digital%20Camera%20Adaptor%20Dca-_-swarovski%20DCA
If you are not sure what this is, it basically allows a 'quick-release' connection between the Jackar Adapter and the scope's eyepiece. It has an inner and outer sleeve. The inner part stays attached to the eyepiece, and the outer part remains attached to the camera/adapter. The outer sleeve slides quickly over the inner part and is secured by a single screw.
There is a picture of it all connected up in post 28 of this thread, (pic 2, and again in pic 5)
A cheaper method might be to use John's method, utilising a step-ring directly to an eyepiece thread such as on the Baader eyepieces, but you would lose the rapid removal function which I find invaluable for birding.
Below is a video demonstrating the DCA with a DSLR camera. You can also connect a compact camera using the same method, but most modern compact cameras lack any form of lens threads, hence the use of the Jackar Adapter to hold the camera via it's tripod thread:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=acsu332q9w4
And the DCA with a compact camera:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CoDE_MbgtJg&feature=related
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antshrike69
Well-known member
Thanks Steve and John.
antshrike69
Well-known member
Well, I've been playing with the scope and an identical set-up to Steve (thanks so much for making it so idiot-proof!) in admittedly pretty nice weather this afternoon. I'm really pleased with the results compared to my previous hand-held approach. I shouldn't be surprised really I suppose 
The pictures were taken of birds on a neighbour's roof - the Mallard has a female on eggs in the border next to our pond :t: I've cropped slightly.
Now I need to practise, practise, practise.
edit: these are taken through a Swarovski 65, zoom eyepiece at 20x (low end of zoom range)
The pictures were taken of birds on a neighbour's roof - the Mallard has a female on eggs in the border next to our pond :t: I've cropped slightly.
Now I need to practise, practise, practise.
edit: these are taken through a Swarovski 65, zoom eyepiece at 20x (low end of zoom range)
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Over the last year I was pretty active DS'ing with my Kowa 883 and Sony w300, last fall I built my adapter for the s95 and around the beginning of '11 started using it. Second time out I had a slip on the ice that broke my scope but its fixed now and a week ago I got back on the bicycle.
Weather has been terrible but when these shots were taken there was some sun, The EXIF data shows the rodent at a slow 1/5 second but it was in a dark shaded area and pic is surprisingly sharp. All 3 pics were taken in Raw and processed in DPP, interesting to note the EXIF says Photoshop on one but that must be because I only used it for a slight crop.
Weather has been terrible but when these shots were taken there was some sun, The EXIF data shows the rodent at a slow 1/5 second but it was in a dark shaded area and pic is surprisingly sharp. All 3 pics were taken in Raw and processed in DPP, interesting to note the EXIF says Photoshop on one but that must be because I only used it for a slight crop.
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Just a short update on my venture with the s95 and I'll have to say I'm still liking it. My typical routine is to shoot only in RAW and develop in DPP. My last discovery in DPP is in raw tab where instead of using just the sharpness set to full I'm also using the Unsharp Mask. With strength10, Fineness1 and Threshold 0 the image will become noisey but a copy layer and gauzian blurr fixes that. So far I've only used the copy layer with large crops and then its surprising how good it looks for a 10MP P&S.
My hit rate declined with Servo AF on so I now have it off, I think this is better for birding since its quicker with button pressed halfway to compose and shoot than using the lock.
Anyone else make any neat discoveries?
Joe
My hit rate declined with Servo AF on so I now have it off, I think this is better for birding since its quicker with button pressed halfway to compose and shoot than using the lock.
Anyone else make any neat discoveries?
Joe
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Well, I've been playing with the scope and an identical set-up to Steve (thanks so much for making it so idiot-proof!) in admittedly pretty nice weather this afternoon. I'm really pleased with the results compared to my previous hand-held approach. I shouldn't be surprised really I suppose
The pictures were taken of birds on a neighbour's roof - the Mallard has a female on eggs in the border next to our pond :t: I've cropped slightly.
Now I need to practise, practise, practise.
edit: these are taken through a Swarovski 65, zoom eyepiece at 20x (low end of zoom range)[
You should be happy with those.
Neil
SteveClifton
Well-known member
I agree with Neil, these are excellent first pictures Jonathan.
I haven't done much digiscoping recently unfortunately, but like Josef I have been using DPP which I'm finding quite good. If I want a very quick result I use Picasa, which I still find best in terms of ease of use and speed if you don't want to invest too much time, but for jpegs only.
I haven't done much digiscoping recently unfortunately, but like Josef I have been using DPP which I'm finding quite good. If I want a very quick result I use Picasa, which I still find best in terms of ease of use and speed if you don't want to invest too much time, but for jpegs only.
