Info on old Swifts? (1 Viewer)

Steve/ GG,,

It may very well be that the 1980 Swift Focus series was made by the same manufacturer as the Aerolite series. They are both "Z" bodies and still on the inexpensive side by comparison with the Mark-II premium binoculars.

The Aerolite name may have been registered to Swift and used with other manufacturer's products, however. For example, as GG mentioned, there was a 781A Armored Aerolite sold twenty years later in 2000. But it didn't have Swift Focus, and note the narrow field.

Ed

While we are chatting, any favorite sleeper Swift models ? Mostly like 7X50, but any suggestions welcome.

GalvestonGuy said:

While we are chatting, any favorite sleeper Swift models ? Mostly like 7X50, but any suggestions welcome.

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I think you may have discovered the last 7x50, GG.

Anyway, I'm really an Audubon guy. Look for the first model made in 1958 and you'll have found the real sleeper.

Ed

OPTIC_NUT said:

The Saratoga line is a bit better than Aerolites, but the 8x30s is
great mechanics and a cool eyecup with very plain optics.

The Vega line is awesome. Very flat, saturated views, to run alongside
designs like the Kowa Prominar.

And...of course, the Swift Audubon 8.5x44 is a legend, in comments
and in real measurements. Was a real kick in the pants to fancier makes.
It still is, for that matter, especially on a hazy day.

Click to expand...

Picked up some Vega, the 787 and 788. Do you know how to collimate these? Don't see any screws or adjustments on the prisms.

The IF is seized on the eyepieces on 787, but I'm using penetrating oil on those. Hopefully it will do the trick

Thanks to you all, for your help in solving the mystery of the Swift Focus. Ed, if I find that first Audubon, you will be the first to know ; )

Red_Shoulder said:

Picked up some Vega, the 787 and 788. Do you know how to collimate these? Don't see any screws or adjustments on the prisms.

The IF is seized on the eyepieces on 787, but I'm using penetrating oil on those. Hopefully it will do the trick

Click to expand...

You didn't pull MY chain. However, your post has been up for 48 hours.

This bino has one adjusting screw under pebble-finish vinyl near the top/center of the backplate, and on the lower inside of the prism housing next to the axle.

Most Porro prism binos, that have this convention for collimating, have them in the same place. Attached is a Pentax 7x50 without its cloths on. This unit uses hex screws; they’re in the locations I mentioned.

Without a little additional knowledge and the right setup, you’re not going to get clinical collimation. However, you can get “conditional alignment,” which, if you’re the only one using the bino (one IPD), will be just fine.

All but one of the tips on “collimation” on the Internet are wrong, and while you may get a good conditional alignment, if you follow the advice of those who teach arbitrary screw turning until you get it, you may take the instrument farther from true 3-axis collimation. Would that be good enough for me? Most of the time. I just thought you should know. To that end, I have also attached my blurb explaining the difference. :cat:

Good luck,

Bill

Thanks for the great article, Bill. But I'm not seeing any screws on the prisms closest to what I suspect is a doublet.

Just some metal over the prisms that's probably supposed to block stray light

Bill, many thanks for that article, and your contributions generally, much appreciated. Now, I am just an amateur dabbler who get some fun out of getting old bins back in some kind of useful shape, I made a very similar alignment device based on the one Jan Seyfried describes in his book, and it has been useful. When I use it, I always ensure the binocular hinge is fully open, both barrels and objectives level with each other. Then I adjust each side until both are aligned on target, as you say some sliding back and forth is needed, and with such a device I appreciate it can't be spot on.
I have found that, provided both barrels are on target as it were when opened flat on the device, when I take the binocular and adjust to my own IPD, it does give a good, seemingly aligned image at my IPD and at others.
Is that because it is still within certain tolerances, is it luck or am I doing something right? I admit I have no clue.

Best wishes, Ben

Red_Shoulder said:

Thanks for the great article, Bill. But I'm not seeing any screws on the prisms closest to what I suspect is a doublet.

Just some metal over the prisms that's probably supposed to block stray light

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We’ll get there; it may take a little time.

— “But I'm not seeing any screws on the prisms closest to what I suspect is a doublet.”

The prisms don’t have any screws on them. The screws just pass through the body and push against them.

Also, by “doublet” I assume you mean objective lens. The collimation screws are nowhere near the objective—and could not be. They are only on the prism housing—as in the photo I provided. Further, I am providing another photo so that you might get a new orientation to work with. This is just a different shot of the same bino. The Swift Audubon and Kestrel are a BIT different. But, the vast majority of the “through-the-body” Porros have screws in the same position.

Further, you won’t “see” them on most Porro prism units. You just have to have faith they’re there and press around with your jeweler’s screwdriver until you find them. If you try to pick and choose, you’ll turn the pebble vinyl into a mess. If you start pressing about 3/16-inch to 1/3-inch from the back plate—in the center of the body—you’ll find it.

— Just some metal over the prisms that's probably supposed to block stray light.

If you can “see” those, you have opened the bino and the screws should be obvious.

Photo “A” shows a leaf spring that provides back pressure for the screw.
Photo “B” illustrates a “prism strap” that helps hold the prism to the prism shelf.
Photo “C” illustrates a “prism shield” that retards stray light.

‘Hope this helps.

Bill

Bencw said:

Bill, many thanks for that article, and your contributions generally, much appreciated. Now, I am just an amateur dabbler who get some fun out of getting old bins back in some kind of useful shape, I made a very similar alignment device based on the one Jan Seyfried describes in his book, and it has been useful. When I use it, I always ensure the binocular hinge is fully open, both barrels and objectives level with each other. Then I adjust each side until both are aligned on target, as you say some sliding back and forth is needed, and with such a device I appreciate it can't be spot on.
I have found that, provided both barrels are on target as it were when opened flat on the device, when I take the binocular and adjust to my own IPD, it does give a good, seemingly aligned image at my IPD and at others.
Is that because it is still within certain tolerances, is it luck or am I doing something right? I admit I have no clue.

Best wishes, Ben

Click to expand...

Yes, Ben:

For REAL collimation, the instrument will be aligned at all points along the swing of the barrels. But why, as scripture says, "kick against the pricks"?

With Jan's set up you are not going to get clinical collimation. Use what you can, and be thankful it’s better than it was.

A couple of hints:

—Align the bino with the IPD set for your eyes—not the widest point in the swing.
—Learn to stare; this makes the bino do the work … not your eyes.

Have a great day!

Bill

Thanks Bill! These were a mess, but I keep getting somewhere. Hopefully I will have a great set of binoculars. Good challenge

Many thanks for the hints Bill.

Bencw said:

Many thanks for the hints Bill.

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U betchum!

BC