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Puerto Rico December 2016 (1 Viewer)

Hamhed

Well-known member
“Better late than never” is a regular excuse of mine as a procrastinator of exceptional capabilities. Here I am again then, six months late, working hard to keep my reputation intact. With reports from our visits to Dominica and Arizona to be posted, I hope to return as a regular poster to this forum. Today, my 67th birthday, is a good of a time as any.


Over the December holidays, my wife, Liz, and I flew from Charlotte, NC, to San Juan, Puerto Rico, for a short week of birding. This was our first trip to this particular Caribbean island; our only other visit to this area was a shorter trip to the Bahamas a number of years ago.
As usual, our main source of birding information was eBird and trip reports both from Birdforum (thank you Ross, Peter and Larry) and other internet sources. Though we did not have their birding success, we have set ourselves up needing a return visit. Therein lies the value in failure!
For one identification guide, we took the 2003 version of “Birds of the West Indies” by Raffaele, et al. Used much more often was the bird app by Mark Oberle for Puerto Rican and Virgin Island birds (http://www.puertoricobirds.com/prandvibirdsapp.html). I give this app and it’s many features a very high rating.
We both have 8X binoculars and we also brought our Opticron scope. In hindsight, the scope could have been left behind as we had very little opportunity to use it. For cameras, we are all about convenience so, as usual, I brought my Canon SX50 and Liz her Fujifilm HX50EXR.
We rented a car via the internet from Charlie Car Rental (http://www.charliecars.com), a Kia Forte sedan, which was small but adequate for 99% of our driving. More about that other 1% later. The rental company employee was professional, not pushy about our choices of insurance and the car performed well, though it had a gazelle-like leap from just a touch of the gas pedal. We’d rent from them again (on that return trip we need to make). On main highways, driving conditions and signage were similar to the US.
Finally, all our lodgings were at Airbnb locations. There are many such lodging choices, though choosing the right one is not always so easily done.


12-14 We arrived in late afternoon, picked up our sedan and were soon sitting in bumper to bumper traffic, westbound on San Juan’s Route 22. I soon learned that one needs to be fearless with a touch of aggressive in such traffic if any headway was desired. After a stressful 45 minutes, we broke free of that mess and were soon on the north coast, in Vega Baja, halfway to our first birding destination. We stayed that night in a beachfront house, with the surf and coqui frogs duetting us to sleep. Unfortunately, just a couple of blocks down the dead end road, was a very active marine police station. Apparently a very busy night for whatever it is they do since they put in a full night of traveling at high speeds back and forth past our building. Strike one for our Airbnb choices.
 

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12-15 At dawn, on the Atlantic coast, we walked across the sand to the crashing surf and watched the sunrise with Bananaquits chittering over our heads in the palms. Forty minutes later, we were in the parking lot for Bosque Estatal de Cambalache. This location had some excellent eBird reports for many of the dry forest species. Monk Parakeets and a pair of Scaly-naped Pigeons were seen from the side of the car. Going through the picnic area we spied a Gray Kingbird, Puerto Rican Flycatcher, a Northern Parula and several Red-legged Thrushes. The balance of the next three hours was partially spent trying to determine where we were on the extensive trail system. The posted map does not show the numerous, criss-crossing mountain bike trails nor do the main trails always have signs. Still, in our ramblings, we had numerous views of Puerto-Rican Lizard-Cuckoos, their reddish eyes giving them the appearance of enduring a terrible hangover. Their calls made them one of the easier birds to identify without getting the bins up. The Puerto Rican Vireos and Bullfinches were fairly numerous and also easily identified by sound as well. Bananaquits were becoming the ubiquitous bird of the trip.
Leaving later than intended, we drove west then south to Bosque Estatal de Rio Abajo, home of the Puerto Rican Parrot breeding center. The road from the highway is long and winding, giving us doubts about our directions. Fortunately, we were using an app on our iPhones called Maps.me, (http://maps.me/en/home), recommended to us by Birdforum’s Opus editor, Niels Larsen. Trusting our position shown on this app, we soldiered forward and eventually came to a gated and vacant picnic area. After a brief stop for lunch, with almost non-existent bird activity, we drove on a short distance, sighting a Broad-winged Hawk sitting low on a limb in the forest, and parked just beyond a open gate, just downhill from a closed gate, the apparent entrance to the aviary. Here, and at an adjacent power line opening, we spent a bit of time, hoping for a parrot flyover. A few distant squawks later and bored with the wait-and-see approach and the continued lack of birdlife, we found a nearby trail to walk for an additional half hour.
As we returned to the rental car, a pair of young researchers stopped and informed us that we were not supposed to park beyond the first gate though they did not appear too upset about our birding in the area. I couldn’t resist asking about entering the aviary area for a look at the endangered parrots but the words had hardly left my mouth when the very definite and expected but polite “No” came as an answer. The potential here was now exhausted; we knew this was our only chance for the Parrot.
We had three driving options to reach our night’s destination in San Herman. One was to continue on the cross island highway which we knew was not complete despite what our National Geographic map showed. That would take us south through Ponce, then west. Or, option two, to try to make our way somewhat diagonally through the mountains with the promise of shorter distance but with the potential of losing our way on the unsigned roads we were warned about. On the advice of a contact who lived in San Juan, we tried option three which was to drive back north to Arecibo and take the highway in a big loop, counter-clockwise in a letter “C” direction. Fast roads would make up for the longer distance was the thought process. Also, where the road came very close to the Atlantic, was a convenient stop to check the cliff faces of Guajataca for early White-tailed Tropicbirds. Still feeling the disappointment of Parrot failure, we drove first north then west, missing the park entrance on the first go but swung back, diving out of the intense traffic into the paved entrance road that led past an odd cement tower and shortly on to a parking lot by the ocean. The cliffs, along with a large tunnel to nowhere, were adjacent to the short road and partially overlooked the water. A long sandy beach separated us from a second similar cliff face. We scanned both sky and cliffs repeatedly but, except for a few roosting pelicans, saw nothing resembling a Tropicbird. A quick walk back and forth through the tunnel in the limestone before we were back on Highway 2 once again. We arrived in San Herman hours later; the entire drive, minus our stop, taking 3 hours and 15 minutes, clearly the wrong choice for efficient traveling. Traffic density near any city, especially the San Antonio vicinity and Mayaguez, was on a par with our first drive in San Juan. No more details need be related.
 

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More sights from 12-15.
 

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12-16 Our new Airbnb location in San Herman was not in the charming, quiet town we had imagined. We got up sleepily after another noisy, traffic-filled night and left quickly for Maricao State Forest. Passing through Sabana Grande, a portal town to the mountains, the drive to the ranger station was straightforward enough, though we paused briefly to admire the view from La Torre de Piedra, a stone tower built in the 1930’s by the Civilian Conservation Corp. By 8 am, we were birding the short entrance road and small picnic area of the ranger station.
Though the action was not overwhelming, we did find a very nice Sharp-shinned Hawk, perched in the morning light, probably making all the other birds we wanted to see very nervous. More color in the face and less in the chest than our stateside version. Close by, a Puerto Rican Woodpecker landed on a light pole. We skipped the photo op, wanting a more natural setting. In hindsight, it was our best view of this colorful species.
Back towards the entrance, we had a brief look at our first hummingbird, a Mango. Though it was a male, the identification was confusing since, depending on the light, the throat appeared either blue or green. We tried a backlit photo or two then drove on to the well reported trailhead at KM 16.8.
Many reports state that the Elfin-Woods Warbler is regularly seen right from the parking area. We were happy to report that was our experience. It may have not been the first species seen but the bird was there, mid level in a tree just past the gated entrance. As described, always moving, mostly hidden behind foliage, tough to get a clear photo. Across the road, we became aware of a small flycatcher, a Lesser Antillean (or Puerto Rican) Pewee. There were a few more of this species seen but this was to be our best look. Without moving more than a few steps from the car, we watched a Puerto Rican Vireo foraging in a thick shrub below waist level and a Red-legged Thrush on the highway edge.
Two choices of trails here - Camino Descanso (left and down) and Camino Alto (right and up). We set off to the left on the more forested trail, birding this for close to two hours and finding three more Puerto Rican specialties. We are poor note takers when birding so I can’t say which came first. Three Puerto Rican Spindalis were seen but never allowed a opportunity for a photo. Near a fruiting mistletoe hanging low in a smallish tree, we saw several small unknown birds that darted away but a single Antillean Euphonia remained.
Higher up, we got on a Puerto Rican Tanager, a bit dull after the other two but a stocky bird with a white spot on the primaries, making identification immediate.
 

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I’d like to say that we were getting the hang of some of the calls at this point and we did have the Lizard-Cuckoo down, the Scaly-naped Pigeon and many of the Doves, the Puerto Rican Vireo, the Woodpecker, the Bullfinch but the sound we quickly learned was the buzzy call of the Puerto Rican Tody. We found two of these little cuties, working their way through the understory, calling to each other with insect-like sounds. Unlike the larger flycatchers, they spent little time perched but tended to move along at a steady pace. Focused on the enjoyment of being in their company, we regrettably missed any decent photos; the best record I have is a video of just 7 seconds!
Our second choice of trails, Camino Alto was more exposed with less birdlife. One small, female hummingbird zipped past us. We wanted to call it a Puerto Rican Emerald but our look was too brief, the tentative identification made mostly by size. Several swallows, Cave Swallows most likely, crossed the ridge we were on. We became distracted by plants, lizards and butterflies, dangerously close to sensory overload!
The morning long gone, we made our way back down the winding but good road to Sabana Grande, stopping at Mercado’s Bakery where 9 Greater Antillean Grackles worked the edges of the parking lot. Cameras temporarily packed away, I can describe them best as purplish-black, with wide tails and yellow eyes, in other words, just like most Grackles I’ve seen. Another 30 minutes of driving had us on the far side of Guanica, on the coastal route adjacent to the state forest. A side road leading to the ferry dock had us stop for views of White-cheeked Pintails and a pair of Black-necked Stilts. We continued on Rt. 334 thinking we might find a convenient place for some afternoon snorkeling. The Caribbean was pretty windy and rough however; the few parking areas we found did not lead to any sheltered locations for a placid salt water float.
Further on, a road sign that read “Yauco” alerted us to the end of the Guanica municipality and the Guanica state forest. Just before that sign, we had noticed a gate blocking a single lane, gravel road that lead up into the scrub forest. We parked there, taking note that we would be on a tsunami escape route. The gradient was not difficult for birding but, I could imagine that beachgoers trying to escape a towering wave by running up this rough, gravel path would have limited success. We were on a west facing hillside in late afternoon so didn’t expect much bird activity. A short way above the road was a very small, shaded pond, probably a rainwater catchment. A pair of Gray Kingbirds were swooping down and striking the water surface for insects or possibly minnows? A colorful Prairie Warbler responded to some pishing; a single Bullfinch called.
Minutes before 5 pm, we were at the state forest entrance gate on Rt. 333 where our first Pearly-eyed Thrasher, Gray Kingbirds and Black-faced Grassquits were seen. By dark, having walked some distance up the road and almost 90 minutes later, we were back at the car, no owl or nightjar seen or heard. For the Puerto Rican Nightjar, I used playback 3 or 4 times, being aware of how often this method was probably used, we were reluctant to try more often. My fears were confirmed later by a San Juan birding friend who told us the nightjar was being called on to perform much too often. Also, time of year was likely a factor, March being the prime month for this pair of species to be vocal.
 

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12-17 Much of this day’s birding was planned for the southwest corner of the island. Our first stop was to be at Laguna Cartegena where the Christmas Bird Count was being held that day. We hoped to find the Count team and tag along, helping in any way we could.
The drive there from San Herman was not terribly long and so we found ourselves on Rt. 306, the north entrance road, at 7:30 on a cloudy morning. The road is flanked by open fields with good activity from small birds in the brush and small trees adjacent to the gravel road. With difficulty, we did our best to focus on moving forward without delay and press on to reach the lake. In just a few minutes, we came upon a crossroads, labeled Hacienda Desengaño on Google Maps, with men loading hay on a truck, several buildings and at least one barking pit bull coming to greet us. We stopped and asked for directions to the lake just to be sure we were not about to trespass and were directed to continue on what looked like a continuous mudhole of a road. We had not seen much in the way of rainfall but apparently, this road had, and recently. Our rental sedan didn’t seem adequate for the situation and, with the defensive dog working his way through the tread on the front tire, we made the decision pretty quickly to turn around. As we retraced our drive, one of the small birds, which I assumed would be Black-faced Grassquits, dashing back and forth from the shrub cover to the grass, landed briefly on the road. We were surprised to see a Grasshopper Sparrow though they are said to be in the area.
At the end of the farm road, we stopped to study the map when in flew a stunningly patterned Venezuelan Troupial, landing on a nearby on a metal pipe. On the wire above the road were several Doves, one of which had the markings of an African Collared-Dove, one of the very few exotic species we would see. The undertail pattern and undertail coverts color are the key points according to Oberle’s app.
Our next attempt at morning birding was to be Refugio de Aves de Boqueron, a short distance to the west. We opted for the convenient northeast entry point on the south side of the town of Las Arenas. Just a few hundred yards down the gravel road, sounds of guns halted us to consider any further forward motion. That allowed us to spot several Blackbirds moving in some small trees and shrubs by the water’s edge. The yellow shoulder patch was partially hidden in several of the individuals but it was clear to us that we were looking at a bird we weren’t expecting at any place but a certain hardware store in La Parguera. As we took pictures and videos of the Yellow-shouldered Blackbirds, a man approached us and warned us of an ongoing waterfowl hunt in the “refuge”. A group of Smooth-billed Ani’s, appearing fresh from the funeral parlor, landed in a short tree nearby. One quick photo and it was time to try yet another birding location for the part of the morning that was still left. There was a flight of some swallows that we did not take much time with though one appeared to be a Cave Swallow.
Not ready to leave Boqueron, we tried an access road at the southern border of the refuge. As we parked, a bird immediately attacked the side mirror. Liz had just closed the window or she might have been sharing her passenger seat with our first Adelaide’s Warbler. A sizable group of Helmeted Guineafowl scurried along the shoulder of the road. Later, in the scrubby habitat we birded in, we would see some of this species hiding in dense shrubs, making us wonder if they weren’t a feral group. As a half dozen cattle wandered loose in front of us, no less than 50 Cattle Egrets flew on past us and the cows, likely searching for a bigger herd and greener pastures. Once we began to walk, more Adelaide’s Warblers were seen, usually sticking to the shadowy interiors of the vegetation but, for brief looks, sometimes into the open where the bright yellow of the underparts and head really caught the sunlight. White-winged Doves were common to the point of distraction. We struggled with separating the Kingbirds. The black head cap never seem as distinct as the book or app indicated nor were the white undertail feathers easily visible. To be honest, we sometimes had trouble distinguishing them from the Puerto Rican Flycatcher. Down low, we found Palm Warblers, Grassquits, Common Ground-Doves and a Prairie Warbler. Overhead were Cave Swallows and Turkey Vultures. More Ani’s and several Bullfinches were at head level. We felt that two hours was adequate coverage for this particular area and there was still a bit of morning left to go.
Just minutes south was the Visitor Center for the Cabo Rojo refuge. This office was located on an inland portion of the protected land. Here were miles of trails, an observation tower and wetlands - all closed that day due to trail maintenance. Disappointed but seeing that this was becoming a general trend for the day, we didn’t waste much time moving on.
While at the VC, their maps showed an observation tower on the way to the salt ponds, found easily by the side of the road and across from an Interpretive Center and three very large piles of salt. The attendants there seemed happy to see us and alerted us to the trails that were behind the center with a tip to take the middle trail for the best birding. We went for a quick look from the top of the tower, where we took in a view of the Los Morrillos lighthouse and the salt flats, which very surprisingly, were completely devoid of any birdlife. The morning was warming quickly but we got on the lightly shaded trail behind the center and were soon onto birds. A Puerto Rican Flycatcher gave us good looks at close range followed by a Caribbean Elaenia, a species we had hoped to find in this extreme southwest corner of the island. A pair of each along with Adelaide’s Warblers, Troupials and one Mangrove Cuckoo, a bird we had only seen once before at Cambalache. The small gravel lot was filling with cars as we left but we took the time to show our new friends our pictures of the Flycatcher and Elaenia, Jui de Puerto Rico and Jui Blanco respectively.
Driving time to the next stop was again short. Since it was nearly noon on a Sunday, we had some difficulty finding a place to park for the short, uphill hike to the lighthouse at Cabo Rojo. Most of the parked cars were for beachgoers; we shared the lighthouse grounds with just a few others. Scanning from near the edge of the cliffs joining El Faro de Los Morrillos, we enjoyed the spectacular view but saw just a few birds. Certainly no Boobies, which we were somewhat expecting and hoping for. A few Frigatebirds, Brown Pelicans, Royal Terns and one Osprey made up the entire bird list.
With a full morning behind us, I followed a rough path into the scrub forest by the car and discovered a two person, private swimming beach. An hour later, refreshed by the cool water of the Caribbean, and having much of the afternoon ahead of us, we decided to try another late visit to the Guanica Forest. We took our time following a series of paved roads east through mostly agricultural lands and had no trouble finding our way back to the tsunami escape route path on Rt. 333. The thought was that we might find the Nightjar in a location within the dry forest but where few birders had used recordings.
Arriving well ahead of dusk, we found a side trail promising an elderly Guayacan tree, also known as Lignumvitae, and the hardest wood known to exist. A good 15 minutes of walking on a rough trail brought us to the tree where we paid our respects. It is going have to be a tough tree to hold out much longer as much of the root system was much exposed on an eroded slope. The estimated age of the tree varies from 300 to 800 years.
Not much birdlife was seen or heard during our walk. We were on a warm, west facing hillside and the low tree cover did not offer enough shade to cool the air. Calls from a Bullfinch or two and twitters from hidden Adelaide’s Warblers were heard. At dusk, fairly high up on the road, we began to walk slowly down, listening intently. Desperately, I played the Nightjar call a number of times. By dark, we were near the car and had no responses for our efforts.
 

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More Boqueron photos:
 

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Cabo Rojo Interpretive Center photos:
 

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Cabo Rojo and Guanica:
 

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12-18 Having had our best luck with the birds at Maricao, we left our inner city stay well before dawn, passing through Sabana Grande by the glow of the streetlights and were watching a perched Green Mango a few minutes after 7. We explored both trails at KM 16.8 for the entire morning, with some good birding once again. Several Elfin-woods Warblers seen (one in the same tree near the gate!), Todies, Tanagers, Spindalis, Vireos and a single Lizard-Cuckoo. Alerted by strong “chek” sounds, we found our first Puerto Rican Oriole. A pair of Todies were clearly visible without binoculars but, again, neither of us were able to capture them well with camera.
On the way down we stopped at a venue we had noticed before: Companiado de National Park. There is an office (closed this day) and what appear to be several rental cabins. Several families were in the process of packing up or preparing to do so . The cabins appear to be well equipped with cook stoves and beds. We were able to walk briefly on a short path but did not explore due to limited time. The lack of bird life did not make us want to stay, although with some natural areas there appears to be potential. It was also unclear if this is a private park or open to all.
Much of the remainder of the day was an east bound drive across the island, with our destination another Airbnb near Fajardo. After the town of Salinas, we chose to take the inland road with the idea that the coastal road might be a good bit slower. It was, however, Sunday afternoon, meaning anyone from San Juan visiting the south coast for the weekend would also be using this route to return north. Traffic was especially heavy until we passed through Caguas. Lesson learned - next time we are in Puerto Rico on a Sunday afternoon heading east, we should follow the coastal road. Though it occurred to us to stop, we considered the drive thus far and time of day and did not make the side trip for a chance at Plain Pigeon.
More conveniently located for our travels was Humacao Reserve. Not knowing if we would be able to return to this area, we made the side trip only to find that we arrived just an hour before they closed at 4 pm. Still, we spent what time we could on the quiet Palmas trail beside a small lake, startling a Quail-Dove that flew off trail, cooing a bit while we walked past.

Our chosen location in Las Croabas, northeast of Fajardo, the Las Vistas Cafe, was primarily for its convenience to the ferry dock for our planned trip to Culebra. We checked in with Gladys, our Airbnb host, before making a “dry run” to the ferry terminal and stopping for a meal of Puerto Rican mofongo, a plantain and garlic dish. We slept soundly in a quiet, comfortable room for the first time this trip.
 

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From 12-18:
 

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12-19 Having set aside just one day to reach and go kayaking and snorkeling at Culebra, an island 90 minutes by ferry east of the mainland, we let Kayaking Puerto Rico handle the details. Travel on the ferry, the Cayo Blanco, was a bit disappointing as we were not allowed on deck and the boat splash on the plastic windows made viewing from inside difficult. It was rougher than expected; attendants were busy handing out numerous bags for those who were losing their breakfast. Once at Flamenco Beach on Culebra, our time snorkeling with green sea turtles and tropical fish was very relaxing and well orchestrated by our guides. Although we had brought our bins, the focus was maximizing our time in the water. At one point, after our late lunch, I did a quick search from the water’s edge for anything resembling a Tropicbird but did not even find a Pelican or Gull.
Back in Las Croabas, tired from the day above and in the water, we hung out on the upper deck (the restaurant, in good weather), enjoying the view. As the occasional Osprey or Great Egret would drift past, a pair of American Kestrels watched from a nearby wind-blown palm. Gray Kingbirds and Greater Antillean Grackles were common sights.

12-20 Put off by reports of the south entrance to El Yunque National Forest being closed due to road repair, we chose to “attack” from the main entrance in the north. Arriving before 7am at the gated entrance to the Visitor Center or “El Portal”, we first birded the entrance area then walked along the unopened entrance road. Our best find here was a calling Puerto Rican Screech Owl, heard from the parking lot. Given this species “persecution” by playback, we satisfied ourselves with listening to the soft trill., so similar to our own Eastern Screech-Owl. We heard a Ruddy Quail-Dove here and found one Puerto Rican Woodpecker. Staking out a large bed of assorted tropical flowers, we failed to see any hummingbirds, their general absence was a constant surprise to us. We continued driving up the road well before the official opening time of 9 am.
A stop at El Yunque Tower did not produce much, though five Scaly-naped Pigeons was the most we’d seen in one location. Though birds were also scarce in the forest on the Big Tree trail, which we hiked to La Mina Falls, other visitors were not. Several large groups, arriving by tour bus, swamped the viewing area at the falls. More hiking on the Bano de Oro, Caimitillo and El Yunque trails with more bussed-in people. Clearly, this was a very popular park, even on a Tuesday.
Not too awed by the birdlife in the forested area, we returned to the now open El Portal in the afternoon, a bit of a visual shock seeing this complex architectural structure surrounded by tropical rainforest. Nevertheless, there were educational displays and gardens with waterfalls to enjoy before we left for the day.
Two minor birding destinations left that day: the Fajardo Inn, the planted grounds of which were said to attract numerous hummingbirds and the Las Croabas police station, for a pair of flowering trees where, you guessed it, hummers abounded. Walking the entire well-planted grounds of the Inn and standing suspiciously outside the police station with binoculars produced neither hummingbirds nor questioning officials. Feeling somewhat defeated by these smallest of birds, we returned to Las Vistas and packed our bags for the noon flight on the following day.
 

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12-21 Out the door by 6:15, we made a morning stop at Monte Brisas Bakery. Strong coffee, eggs and arepas con coca propelled us back for a pre-trip visit to El Portal. Not knowing what the drive to the airport in San Juan would be like, we kept an eye on the clock, once again started our birding at the front gate area. Birds were fairly active with PR Tanagers, PR Woodpeckers, PR Orioles, a PR Vireo and a pair of Orange-fronted Parakeets. Inside the gate, we revisited the bank of flowers at the upper end of the parking lot with the same results as the day before. At this point, we were beginning to assume there was a mass die-off of hummingbirds that we were unaware of. A little trinket shopping at the Center and it was time to see what the highway west to the big city would be like.
Fears of the same traffic snarls we faced on arrival gave way to relief as we swiftly neared then easily passed the airport, on our way to return the rental car. That also went very well and the shuttle got us to the airport in just the right amount of time. Facing us yet that day was boarding a plane operated by LIAT (Leave Island at Any Time) airlines. LIAT was taking us to the mountainous island of Dominica for the second half of our trip. More on that to come!


In the end, we missed several of the 18 species of endemic birds. Clear misses were the Parrot, the Nightjar and the Emerald. The Owl was “heard only” and we are learning to accept that. Sometimes to actually lay eyes on a bird, such as a nightbird, the end does not justify the means (over-playing of recordings). The lack of hummingbird sightings, endemic or not, was very puzzling.
It is hard to say if we will ever return with just those species missing from our lists. Revisiting in a different season would likely increase our chances.
 

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Great stuff Steve! I seldom think of PR as a birding destination - maybe it is too easy to get to :) - but now have a better appreciation of what one might find there.
 
Thanks, Mike. Our real target country was Dominica but passing though PR without seeing what was there seemed silly.
By the way, I heard just yesterday that the PR government is going to start taxing Airbnb operators.

Steve
 
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