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10x42 SLC eye cups too long? (1 Viewer)

C

Capp35

Member
I have noticed with my new binoculars that I have a wider field of vision with the eye cups all the way down. I do not wear glasses, but when I turn the eye cups all the way out I get a little tunnel vision. I really don't like to view them all the way down, for fear of smudging them and at 1/4-1/2 way out is fine but they have a tendency to move at this height.
I have to admit that I do have fairly shallow set eyes (or large bone structure).
Am I the only one?

My main concern is that I was going to get the winged eye cups, but since they are not adjustable, they may be to long?

Any suggestions/solutions or knowledge on this or the winged eye cups?

Thanks.
 
So long as you don't get blackouts from excessive eye relief (say, when you move your eye to look around the field) then set the cups at the point when you see the full FOV.

There's not requirement to have the eyecups set full out (especially with modern eyecups that lock at intermediate points).

As you say you may just have shallow set eyes but I'd expect this effect more for people with deeper set eyes. But each to his own ;)
 
Capp35 said:
I have noticed with my new binoculars that I have a wider field of vision with the eye cups all the way down. I do not wear glasses, but when I turn the eye cups all the way out I get a little tunnel vision. I really don't like to view them all the way down, for fear of smudging them and at 1/4-1/2 way out is fine but they have a tendency to move at this height.
I have to admit that I do have fairly shallow set eyes (or large bone structure).
Am I the only one?

My main concern is that I was going to get the winged eye cups, but since they are not adjustable, they may be to long?

Any suggestions/solutions or knowledge on this or the winged eye cups?

Thanks.
Click to expand...

Hi Capp, a good number of birders use their binoculars with the eye-cups pushed in and then resting the binoculars up against the eye-brow. I used to use this alot, particularly when I was doing long [nest or behaviour] observation periods. It meant that I had to crane my neck less when monitoring something up in the forest canopy.

If you would like to try the binoculars with the eye-cups a little bit extended, then I would suggest maybe trying to wind and elastic/rubber band around the base of the eye-cups. That should help to keep them from collapsing in when you use them. If the rubber band goes a little bit on to the binocular casing as well, then it will [mostly] stop them twisting up as well.

Hope this helps,
 
Dale Forbes said:
Hi Capp, a good number of birders use their binoculars with the eye-cups pushed in and then resting the binoculars up against the eye-brow.
Click to expand...

I have very deep set eyes and this is exactly what I ended up doing, with the eye-cups fully in (Opticron DBA Oasis).
 
Capp35 said:
I have noticed with my new binoculars that I have a wider field of vision with the eye cups all the way down. I do not wear glasses, but when I turn the eye cups all the way out I get a little tunnel vision. I really don't like to view them all the way down, for fear of smudging them and at 1/4-1/2 way out is fine but they have a tendency to move at this height.
I have to admit that I do have fairly shallow set eyes (or large bone structure).
Am I the only one?

My main concern is that I was going to get the winged eye cups, but since they are not adjustable, they may be to long?

Any suggestions/solutions or knowledge on this or the winged eye cups?

Thanks.
Click to expand...

I'm of the deep-set-eyed-variety and use my 10x42 SLC's with the cups all the way in. I've not (yet) had any problems with smudging.

Perry
 
Glad to know I am not the only one.
I guess I will just use them all the way down. Hate using a rubberband (for looks), but I do have some black zip-ties in different sizes, that would probably work. Would only do this If I do smudge the glass, unless someone else has another suggestion.

Now my other question is, has anyone used the winged eyecups? How far do they stick up?
I would hate to spend $50 US for a set, on something I couldn't use.
 
Kevin Purcell said:
Got it. You may be one of those that just doesn't need the eyecups all the way up.

No blackout issues?
Click to expand...

None when they are all the way down or slightly out. But I get a little tunnel vision (a narrower field of view), when they are turned all the way out.

I wish they had a click/stop type of variable adjustment like some binouculars do.
 
As you can tell I haven't used this model. We need a Swaro user ...

But if you are having problems keeping them "just right" and not at a locking stop you can always use the time honored system of one or two O-rings (local hardware store) to set the eyecup position just right.

I have a few bins that are set this way (for excessive ER with the eyecups all the way in, in my case, but limited FOV at the next available stop).
 
Kevin Purcell said:
But if you are having problems keeping them "just right" and not at a locking stop you can always use the time honored system of one or two O-rings (local hardware store) to set the eyecup position just right.
Click to expand...

now that's a neat idea, hadn't thought about o-rings
 
The O rings are less needed with multi-position eyecups but as an myope (negative lenses lengthen ER) with tight fitting glasses I find some of the newer bins have too much ER for me when all the way down. An added O ring to give a 2 or 3mm stand off works great for me.

If you need an intermediate state that can be a bit more fiddly but plumbing O rings and gaskets seem to be about the right size to hold themselves in place.

Search the forum for "o ring" or "o-ring" (include the quotes too) for some photos.

Sections of bike inner tube are also used.

Good luck.
 
I have the winged eyecups on my EL's. They are very comfortable when pushed up aginst the eye surrounds, being a soft rubber. They also block out stray light that can sometimes intrude.
On the negative side they can cause some eyepiece misting, especially in winter when a cold environment (and therefore binocular) is pushed up against a warmer face - I revert to the twist-up eyecups when it's cold (so simple to change them).
 
Steve Jones said:
I have the winged eyecups on my EL's. They are very comfortable when pushed up aginst the eye surrounds, being a soft rubber.
Click to expand...

Steve,
Any way you could take a measurement, how long it is from the armor to the top of the lowest wall of the eye cup?

Kevin,
Great idea on the O-ring. Just need to find a large one in black.
 
O-rings work pretty well. I have a couple of binoculars I use them on to keep the eyecups extended. You can find them in plumbing repair kits or in a farm supply store with a supply of hydraulic system O-rings. I think all you need to do is to get a couple that will be just smaller than the diameter of the ocular tube, and simply roll them on over the eyecup. Use however many O-rings you need under the eyecup to keep them where you want them.. It won't smudge anything and they don't look like a cheap home repair either. They just sort of blend in. Keep a couple of spares in your gear.
 
Capp35 said:
Steve,
Any way you could take a measurement, how long it is from the armor to the top of the lowest wall of the eye cup?

.
Click to expand...

From the top of the armour to the lowest wall of the eyecup measures 19mm. They screw down snugly against the armour, so that is the actual height of the rubber eyecup. It's a further 8mm to the projecting top of the winged side extension.
 
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