I think you'll find that the teleconverter settings do nothing more than automatically put the camera zoom into the correct position to avoid vignetting with them. It has no bearing on focus.
Andy
Andy
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Camera settings for digiscoping (cp990/995/4500) (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Andy Bright
- Start date
Andrew
wibble wibble
I am reading the threads to clean as much digiscoping advice as possible and the tips are just what the camera doctor ordered.
I am looking for tips on coping with poor light that forces the camera shutter speeds to go right down.
One thing I really want to know is can you reduce the ten seconds on the self timer on the Nikon 4500?
I am looking for tips on coping with poor light that forces the camera shutter speeds to go right down.
One thing I really want to know is can you reduce the ten seconds on the self timer on the Nikon 4500?
Not much you can do about poor light, Andrew.... adjusting the iso setting to iso200 will double the shutter speed (400 will double again), but there's a price to be paid in the quality of the image, though 200 isn't bad on the 4500. Make sure the aperture value ( f number) is at it's lowest setting for the given camera zoom position)
A double press of the shutter button (in self-timer mode) will give a 3 second countdown.
Andy
A double press of the shutter button (in self-timer mode) will give a 3 second countdown.
Andy
IanF
Moderator
Hi Rich,
Don't forget that just like in normal photography, the lower the amount of zoom, the more light can enter the camera, hence the wider the aperture. At longer zoom lengths the aperture is narrower, hence the setting at low zoom may be F2,8, but at longer zoom lenghts it may be F4,5. Even on manual settings you won't be able to open up the lens wider at longer zoom lengths. That is just the way the lens is constructed. Even in SLR photgraphy a 70-210 lens will have a max aperture of F3,5 at 70mm but up to F5,6 at 210 or even worse. Physics v lens quality/design I'm afraid.
I leave my camera on Exposure setting 3, which takes care of most things. If the lighting is wrong then I use the EV compensation. Most critical I find is getting the focus spot on. Still difficult at times, unless the bird is very patient.
Don't forget that just like in normal photography, the lower the amount of zoom, the more light can enter the camera, hence the wider the aperture. At longer zoom lengths the aperture is narrower, hence the setting at low zoom may be F2,8, but at longer zoom lenghts it may be F4,5. Even on manual settings you won't be able to open up the lens wider at longer zoom lengths. That is just the way the lens is constructed. Even in SLR photgraphy a 70-210 lens will have a max aperture of F3,5 at 70mm but up to F5,6 at 210 or even worse. Physics v lens quality/design I'm afraid.
I leave my camera on Exposure setting 3, which takes care of most things. If the lighting is wrong then I use the EV compensation. Most critical I find is getting the focus spot on. Still difficult at times, unless the bird is very patient.
Not too sure Rich, I'm sure that you're aware that the minimum f# goes up as you zoom in with the camera (although a number of 35mm zoom lenses offer fixed aperture throughout their range these days).
Maybe you're accidentally knocking the rotary dial and nudging the f# up.... in full manual I leave the shutter-speed as the active setting.
BTW, I think the ev control only adjusts what it can (f# or shutter-speed)..... if you're at the fastest shutter-speed with the lowest f#, ev+ won't do anything.
Andy
Maybe you're accidentally knocking the rotary dial and nudging the f# up.... in full manual I leave the shutter-speed as the active setting.
BTW, I think the ev control only adjusts what it can (f# or shutter-speed)..... if you're at the fastest shutter-speed with the lowest f#, ev+ won't do anything.
Andy
christineredgate
Winner of the Copeland Wildlife Photographer of th
Anby B,watch this space,i am printing off the 16 pages,
Christine.
Ian F superb shots,how far away were you when they were taken?.
Christine.
Ian F superb shots,how far away were you when they were taken?.
cspratt
Well-known member
Nice shots Ian.
I found my best results with the Nikon 4500 and Kowa 823M were when I set the in camera "Sharpening" to OFF. Do others find this?
Bob Miller of Southwest Birders showed me that. Up to then my results were very poor. Turning the in camera sharpening to off improved things a great deal.
Chris. Spratt
I found my best results with the Nikon 4500 and Kowa 823M were when I set the in camera "Sharpening" to OFF. Do others find this?
Bob Miller of Southwest Birders showed me that. Up to then my results were very poor. Turning the in camera sharpening to off improved things a great deal.
Chris. Spratt
Dave Sherry
Well-known member
Andrew,
I assume you are asking about the ten seconds down to three seconds so that you can get a quicker picture without camera vibration? If this is the cas eI can highly recommend the Jessops wing bracket (I think it was about £13) it fixes to the tripod screw hole on the bottom of the camera and then you position the top above the shutter release. This allows you to use a traditional camera cable release without the need for expensive Nikon electronic accessories, and it works a treat. You can fire off shots one after the other without camera shake or the three second delay. I use it on my Nikon 4500 and can recommend it.
Dave :t:
IanF
Moderator
cspratt said:
Hi Chris,
Yes, I find the same. I find vitually every shot does need sharpening to some degree, but I do this in the the processing stage sing either PSP or Thumbsplus.
Dave, I agree entirely. I found my results were much improved consistency wise once I started using the Jessops release. It's even better if you trim the base of the bracket off as it means you don't have to remove it to rotate the camera or replace the batteries and it fits snugly in the camera bag !
Richard Ford
BF Member
Not sure if I have a differently designed Jessops release bracket. I have trimmed the bracket but its the large securing screw that blocks the battery compartment, I am trying to find a smaller screw, but have not had any luck so far.
Any suggestions?
BTW, not sure what I was doing but the F-stop issue seems to have sorted itself out.!!
Is ‘Sharpening off’ the default setting, I can’t say I have looked?
Rich
Any suggestions?
BTW, not sure what I was doing but the F-stop issue seems to have sorted itself out.!!
Is ‘Sharpening off’ the default setting, I can’t say I have looked?
Rich
IanF
Moderator
redwing said:
Sorry Richard, you are right about the large knob ! I recall now that I swapped mine around with a smaller one off an old 35 mm flash bracket. It doesn't obstruct the battery compartment door at all now.
I seem to remember that the sharpening setting default is 'off'. I did experiment with using it, but I prefer not to use it nowadays.
While we on about cable-release brackets.. just about to upload a mini review (there's only so much you can say about them!) of the new eagleeye generic bracket.
christineredgate
Winner of the Copeland Wildlife Photographer of th
This may be in the wrong thread ,but as everyone is discussing digi scoping settings etc,it may be spotted by someone with same problem.has anyone else found that when the camera is on the scope,and you have the picture in the centre,having had to adjust the scope a little,as it may have slightly moved out of view,when the camera is attached,and then when you leave go of the tripod handle,the camera then tends to drop and the picture moves.I tighten the tripod handle really well,and I have even tried using the correct adapter for scope and still it happens.I leave go of everything to use the remote,so as to avoid camera shake(as recommended,)but it tends to defeat the object if the camera tends to drop slightly.
Scope used is swarovski,camera c4500,and tripod is velbon sherpa 10000.
Any ideas gratefully received,unless of course i am the only one who has this problem due to incompetence!!!
Christine.
Scope used is swarovski,camera c4500,and tripod is velbon sherpa 10000.
Any ideas gratefully received,unless of course i am the only one who has this problem due to incompetence!!!
Christine.
Richard Ford
BF Member
Don’t worry Christine I think you will find we all have this problem to an extent, it depends on the camera i.e. the 995 is heavier that the 4500 so the ‘drop back’ is less.
It depends a little on the tripod, but if you are moving the set-up around and adjusting your position only with the handle, but with a very light touch you may find that when you lock it the position is correct. Alternatively it may be something you will just get used to and account for after a while. By which I mean framing the picture slightly off centre and letting it fall into position, I know I do this and don’t really think about it now.
Rich
It depends a little on the tripod, but if you are moving the set-up around and adjusting your position only with the handle, but with a very light touch you may find that when you lock it the position is correct. Alternatively it may be something you will just get used to and account for after a while. By which I mean framing the picture slightly off centre and letting it fall into position, I know I do this and don’t really think about it now.
Rich
stevo
Well-known member
Hi Christine
I think the problem youre having has happened to us all at some stage.Having the camera attached to the scope can make the set-up back heavy.Two suggestions if your scope mounting plate allows it then try mounting the scope slightly further forward,to compensate for the weight.The other one is to aligned the scope slightly above the subject tighten the head(not fully) take your hands away & let the scope dip slightly so it lines up with the subject then fully tighten the head up.One other way is if you have a battery pack then try mounting it(velcro, elastic band) to the underside of the end of the scope this can act as a counter balance.Hope this helps.
Regards Stevo.:t: :t:
I think the problem youre having has happened to us all at some stage.Having the camera attached to the scope can make the set-up back heavy.Two suggestions if your scope mounting plate allows it then try mounting the scope slightly further forward,to compensate for the weight.The other one is to aligned the scope slightly above the subject tighten the head(not fully) take your hands away & let the scope dip slightly so it lines up with the subject then fully tighten the head up.One other way is if you have a battery pack then try mounting it(velcro, elastic band) to the underside of the end of the scope this can act as a counter balance.Hope this helps.
Regards Stevo.:t: :t:
christineredgate
Winner of the Copeland Wildlife Photographer of th
thanks Stevo and Richard,will persevere,it is just annoying,that a soon as one has the object in focus it moves.Especially with birds it is difficult enough trying to catch them in one position then by the time was has re-arranged,the've flown off again,or swum away.Such is life!!!
Christine.
Christine.
