N.India: Corbett, Pangot, Sattal (1 Viewer)

Logistics:
Flew Manchester - Abu Dhabi - Delhi; then Delhi - Pantnagar.
Booked accommodation separately at Le Roi Hotel, Jungle Lore Birding Lodge and Country Inn, at those places listed in the title, respectively.
Taxis between places either taken at the time or booked by the hotels the day before travel. These cost about £25 each for four journeys each averaging just under three hours with some birding stops on the journey.

Corbett requires a jeep and driver to enter - times are restricted unless you stay within the Park. I did one morning's trip within Corbett. This cost a huge £60+. The birding outside was better and I dipped on Tiger by five minutes.

I had too much time between flights so I took a taxi to the Okhla River outside Delhi and scored Spot-billed Duck and Bar-headed Goose there.
Pantnagar Airport is a delight and three hours from Corbett. Roads are horrendous! Indian Grey Hornbills and Yellow-footed Green Pigeons were nearby and a Bay-backed Shrike was seen on the way - the last two species seen nowhere else.

It was dark on arrival so I took my torch down to the Kosi River - where Sambar and Chital Deer were wading. A Mountain Scops Owl was calling by the busy road and I got excellent views - the only one of the trip.
Next dawn back at the river: easy White-capped Water Redstarts first. Early on an immature Pallas's Fish Eagle flew right by - another only for the trip.
Birds were everywhere - other trip reports will list them if you want further details.
I found a track into the park proper - opposite the Kryshna Cafe in town where a small stream heads up into the forest.
You're not allowed to go in - but I walked in twice with no problem. The birding is good. Rufous-gorgetted Flycatcher and a difficult Long-billed Thrush were highlights.
Back out on the Kosi River searching for Ibisbill & Wallcreepers - no luck. But lots of great birds inc Crested Kingfishers and a superb summer Citrine Wagtail.
Next day, having arranged the trip the previous day, I took a jeep into Corbett.
Birding was quite slow and quiet. I went into the Park a few miles north and up into the hills. Four ticks only and we dipped on a Tiger by five minutes. But back outside the birding improved. The only Rusty-flanked Treecreeper of the trip seen.
Back at the town for lunch then out with jeep and guides to find Spotted & Little Forktails in the foothills. Then back to the Kosi for Ibisbill. Scored with a single bird right by the temple - apparently the only one left - others had left for breeding grounds a week before! This was February 28th.
We then visited the cliffs nearby downstream and found several distant Wallcreepers - not on the river boulders but on the cliffs.
We dipped on the Nepal Wren Babbler near the temple though.
Back up the Kryshna Cafe track the next morning - and several new species included two ticks - one being my first Whistler's Warbler.
Then off up to Pangot.

To be continued....

So, with two of the most sought-after birds under my belt - and some beautiful scenery around Corbett - the Ramgangar River valley is stunning - with Tawny Fish Owls staring down, warblers and Woodpeckers, Hornbills and Niltavas to delight, it was off to Pangot, via an ever rising and more precipitous road that winds it's way up into the Himalayan foothills.
First stop the wonderful Mangoli. If you time it right the thermals are just rising - and on them vultures and eagles climb the morning air.
Himalayan Griffons and Steppe Eagles, and with these Black Vultures and a Goshawk.
Down in the slopes birds are everywhere: Streaked Laughers, the proposterously gorgeous Red-billed Blue Magpie, Russet Sparrows and Grey-winged Blackbirds, a Greater Yellownape miaowing in a tree, Rufous Treepies, singing Grey - hooded Warblers, while above Nepal House Martins and Red-rumped Swallows swirling in the sky. It was simply wonderful.
Himalayan Crows crossed the valley and swooped upon the eagles.
And so to Pangot and the Jungle Lore Birding Lodge.
Birds crowd the gardens - dominated by White-throated Laughers, with Chestnut-crowned Laughers and Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babblers and Black-headed Jays everywhere.
In a fruiting tree a step away, a Spot-winged Grosbeak sat and gorged.
You have to tear yourself away. Nearby a flock of Altai Accentors landed in a tree beside a male Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush. Rufous Sibias showed off and a Grey-sided Bush Warbler tried not to.
One small blossoming tree held an incredible variety of birds - always worth checking out. Some of the following gives an idea:
Hume's, Smoky, Buff-barred, Greenish, Grey-hooded Warblers, Oriental White-Eyes, Himalayan Bulbuls, and two or three Laughers - in the same shrub!
Out and about just added to the list of birds: White-tailed Nuthatches, Himalayan and Brown-fronted Woodpeckers, Green-backed, Black-lored and Black-throated Tits...the list grows.
Back around the lodge I found Rufous-breasted Accentor, Golden Bush Robin, Crested Bunting, Scaly Thrush, Hill Partridges, Yellow-bellied Greenfinch, Pink-browed Rosefinches and more.
Next morning I walked and hitched up to the Cheer Pheasant site. Plenty to see on the way.
Others had been waiting there all day - and had failed the day before, but movement had been spotted way down the very steep slope earlier. We waited. Steppe Eagles and Griffons, a Black Eagle and a Peregrine came past.
The guys from the Lodge arrived with a hot lunch and tea!
After that we decided to descend the virtual cliff of a slope to try our luck below, rather than return empty handed.
As we cleared the cover of trees a movement below gave our first view: a male Cheer Pheasant was creeping into cover behind a huge boulder. We sat and waited. The female came out of cover and showed herself inch by inch, creeping at a centimetre a minute - no lie - and often invisible. After an hour, having had my fill, I scrambled back up to the road. The others joined me later.
We walked a couple of miles down the road, found a stunning male Himalayan Bluetail and then a Koklass Pheasant to round the day off!
Back to the Lodge for a great dinner and much Cheer!

Next stop Sat Tal.

To be continued....

Sounds brilliant

It was rather - last instalment today...

That's tea break reading sorted then ;-)

And so to Sattal.

Before I went others were talking about one particular spot near the main lake where many birds are seen at a little watering hole. This was my first stop and I was to spend many hours sitting watching this amazing site.

But, before that, on the way down the switchback plunging road between Bhimtal and Sattal two Indian Spotted Eagles were soaring near the road. I stopped the taxi for a look - these were the only ones of the trip.

Before I sat down beside a few photographers I was aware that the forest was alive with birds. In particular Red-billed Leiothrix were in droves! What cracking birds. White-throated Laughers in large flocks raided the forest in noisy parties. Chestnut-crowned Laughers quite unlike any illustrations were quieter flicking leaves on the ground. So too the Rufous-chinned Laughers.
But coming down to drink and bathe an unending stream of birds: Blue-winged Minlas, Black-lored and Green-backed Tits, Ultramarine Flycatchers, Striated Laughers, Black and Ashy Bulbuls, White-throated Fantails, Kalij Pheasants, a Rufous-gorgetted Flycatcher...it was difficult to tear myself away to explore the surrounds.
But there were other birds to be found. Nearby a Scaly-breasted Wren Babbler eventually have good views, while above Greater Flamebacks noisily shared the trees with Himalayan Langurs and Slaty-headed Parakeets.
Further on and a Slaty-blue Flycatcher shared the understory with a Snowy-browed Fly as an Asian Barred Owlet attracted a number of warblers around it.
A Barking Deer trotted down to drink at the lake.
A Speckled Piculet tapped at a vine.
That evening an Indian Nightjar flew out with the bats.
Dawn the next day: an owl called from the forest. I followed the sound and found a Himalayan Wood Owl sitting in a large tree near the path. The day had started well!
Full daylight heard a Tesia singing which, as the day before, refused to show. Not so an Aberrant Bush Warbler - skulking low. Another Wren Babbler hopped by and a Spotted Forktail turned leaves by the stream.
Lemon-rumped and a Whistler's Warbler flicked in the shrubs. It was time for breakfast.
The thermals started soon after and four Himalayan Griffons were up with a single Long-billed Vulture.
Red-billed Blue Magpies chattered and, down near the lake a Brownish-flanked Bush Warbler showed briefly.
I then walked and hitched to the top of the hill.
NOTE: the Eureka-Forbes site for Rubythroat et al is no more: a university stands in its place.
However, I descended into a scrubby and weedy valley - and soon the birds were everywhere.
Common & Pink-browed Rosefinches and a single Black-throated Accentor were first. A Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babbler sang and an Indian Nightjar flushed from a shady spot.
Overhead a Himalayan Buzzard and two Steppe Eagles passed. Then I surprised a Goshawk. Great Barbets and a Hoopoe and Striated Prinias graced the valley which ended in a wide bowl of cultivation where Paddyfield Pipits and Sibe Stonechats added to the day's list.
Back at the water hole things were quieter than the day before. But Verditers and a male Small Niltava brightened the afternoon. A Mountain Hawk Eagle circled low overhead - giving superb views.
I spent a few more hours looking in vain for the Tesia.

So the next morning was my last.

Before breakfast I was back searching for the last possible tick - that elusive Tesia.
Another hour passed. A host of warblers and flycatchers and a Yellow-bellied Fantail flicked around. I sat down on a log.
Within five minutes something caught my eye and I turned to see, astonished, a male Chestnut-headed Tesia walking right by!!
At the very last I'd managed to see this brilliant, fabulous bird.
I went to pack, well pleased with the trip and the day.

I managed 81 new species - including many of my most sought after birds - Ibisbill, Cheer Pheasant, the last two Forktails of the world, amongst a host of others.

Halftwo

Enjoying the trip report - I'd like to go to Pangott and try for the Cheer Pheasants one day - did you get a sense that they are easier at certain times of year or not?

thanks, alan

Hi Alan.

All I can say is - they are real skulkers and in spring the cover is lessened by the drying of the grasses and herbs. I'd imagine that after the rains there'd be little chance.
Rather worryingly it is said there are just six in the area. And the cultivating locals are slowly working their way up the valley - reducing the amount of habitat as they go.

Good luck when/if you go.

I'm off for a short mostly "cultural", not birding dammit, trip to India in late April and this has really whetted my appetite. The bins, book and big lens will be going anyway ;-)

Edit: Alan I presume you know the the road - indeed the area can be cut off by snow in some winters?

halftwo said:

Hi Alan.

All I can say is - they are real skulkers and in spring the cover is lessened by the drying of the grasses and herbs. I'd imagine that after the rains there'd be little chance.
Rather worryingly it is said there are just six in the area. And the cultivating locals are slowly working their way up the valley - reducing the amount of habitat as they go.

Good luck when/if you go.

Click to expand...

Thanks, yes I guess it may gets easier as the winter goes on

cheers, alan