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I'm SO confused! (1 Viewer)

Draco

Well-known member
I've had classes, used an SLR for years, digiscoped and used a LOT of "inexpensive" cameras. I finally spring for a Nikon D40X with an Nikkor AF-S 70-300 zoom. I cropped and sharpened these photos (too much sharpening?). The detail still isn't there (no whiskers . . .), too far, or not focused properly? I can't get a cropped full frame of a finch 25 feet away without losing the detail (asking too much from the lens?). I posted in another forum and was advised to read the manuals. I believe that this is a great idea, but should I plan a life of taking family photos at Christmas? I can't afford a 600mm lens! I'd like to think that I can take very good wildlife shots someday. If it just means spending more money I'll save up.

Thanks,
Mark
 

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As far I can see, the problem with the fox photo--the only one you've posted so far--is focus. It looks to me as if the camera focused on the vegetation in the foreground, rather than on the fox. I don't know anything about the model of camera you're using, but most DSLRs allow one to lock the focus on the subject, recompose and then shoot.
But, maybe you've been doing this, and there is some other problem?

As far as sharpening is concerned, I don't see any signs of your having overdone it.
 
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Hi Draco

Some shooting info would be useful

Shutter speed, f stop, ISO , Hand held or tripod etc.

There could be a number of factors which account for the image not being pin sharp.

I am sure a Nikon man can tell how that lens rates.

Problem with many of the zoom lens is that they tend to become soft focus at the long end of zoom. The reason why many BF photographers favour a prime lens.

Also post a crop only shot as the sharpening maybe masking the fault.

Is this posting down sampled or a 100% crop ?
 
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Thanks guys,

I'll get the details. The originals aren't with me. They were all hand held shots. These are cropped and down sampled. I'm still having trouble getting just the right file size, dimensions . . . No matter what I do they just aren't the quality I'm after. The original file size is 2.5 MEG.
 

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I thought that I had enough practice. Maybe I need to get back to basics. I still don't have a remote shutter release . . .
 

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Is the focus on something other than the fox on all of these? If that's the problem I need to replace my 50 year old eyes!
 

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As said above, some shooting information would help a lot.
However one thing you said struck me as odd "The original file size is 2.5 MEG."
If this is correct I would say you don't have your camera set on the largest file size. The D40x is a 10mp sensor and should produce a far larger image than this.
 
Bob,
I thought the same thing about the file size. It is set to large, though. Here are the settings of the original fox standing photo:
Nikon D40X
2008/01/20 11:07:03.6
JPEG (8-bit) Normal
Image Size: Large (3872 x 2592)
Color
Lens: VR 70-300mm F/4.5-5.6 G
Focal Length: 270mm
Digital Vari-Program: Auto
Metering Mode: Multi-Pattern
1/1000 sec - F/5.6
Exposure Comp.: 0 EV

Rob,
That's probably what I should have done when I took the camera out of the box. The fox showed up before I got to do much of anything with the camera. I hope that the settings help to pinpoint some problems. I target practice with a new rifle, yet never thought about it with a camera!

Thanks for everyone's help! I was very frustrated having a new camera and a great subject, only to come up with fair shots.

Mark
 
It seems to me that the crop is probably too much. How far away was the fox...or better still can you upload the original uncropped version?
 
Mark

I note from your setting the shot was taken with the lens wide open @ f5.6. See if you get sharper results @ f8 to f11.
 
You have all given me a LOT to work on! Thanks to each of you.

The shot was taken at about 150 feet away. I didn’t think that this fox would allow me much closer. I had hoped that with a 10.1 mp body I could still get detail out of the cropped photo. Now it seems that the subject was just too far for the lens that I used. I’ll use all of the ideas given here and especially will concentrate on setting up a “test range”, as suggested. It’s too bad that Nikon doesn’t make a teleconverter for this lens. I’ll probably find an off brand that accepts one, unless I hit the lottery!

I have a LOT to learn still, I can see. An investment in a lightweight, portable blind is high on my list of priorities now, too. I need to get closer to my subjects. I was hoping for too much.

The lens and camera do a good job if you work within their limits. This shot was only cropped. I’ll be practicing what I can get away with for a while now.

Thanks again!
Mark
 

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You have all given me a LOT to work on! Thanks to each of you.

The shot was taken at about 150 feet away.

The lens and camera do a good job if you work within their limits.

Thanks again!
Mark

Yes.
You are working against physics not hardware.
That 300mm is giving only about 9x mag so you have to be much closer than is often practical to get a frame filling shot.

I do a lot of close up shots but use much longer focal length glass and I find my optimum max range even using a 1000mm scope is about 30-60 feet for a passerines.

A few examples taken with a 500mm (15x) and a 1000mm barlowed to about 60x. The first one was not much over 20-30 feet and the other about 90 feet if I recall. Taken with a 6mp camera.
 

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The shot was taken at about 150 feet away.
Mark

Now if it was 50 - 60 feet away it would of been a different story. At 150 feet you are asking too much of the 300mm lens to resolve whiskers. High Sensor noise also destroys fine detail.

As a resolution test use a steel ruler ( with a 1/32" scale on it ) as a test target. See how far away you can photography it and still see the lines clearly defined. Also test at different f-stops to find the lens sweet spot. At some point the lines will blur into a block of gray. This is what has happened to the fox fur. On World Photography forum we have called this the Bar Code test.

It is all part of the learning curve. Sharp Telephoto work takes a while to master.
 
Hi,

I have a D40X but I only have the 55-200mm lens, which I get quite good results with. I know there is an ordinary version of my lens, but I got the one with VR (vibration reduction). Without VR you would have a difficult time getting an unblurred shot handheld, I'm not sure if your lens comes in one without VR without checking. (editing to say VR is on your list) Your lens has 50% extra on mine, you should be getting good results I would think at that distance, although I can't really say at what distance I would stop getting good results.

With this camera the sensor is slightly smaller than the standard DSLR, and the angle of view is narrower. This gives an actual 50% extra zoom distance compared to using it on a full size. You do in effect have a maximum 450mm.

Reading this manual can be tedious, but at least there is one. You need to keep referring back to the little 'eye' each time it's shown, eventually the puzzle fits together.

OK, the ONE thing I noticed is that you have your camera set to NORMAL. Set it to FINE and you will get much higher resolution pics, mine are usually nearer to 5MB, this gives you much more zooming in power when cropping.

Other tips I can give you,

You need to play around with your Advanced settings. I tend to use the 'P' programme a lot, for birds I usually set the 'AF Area' to the middle 'dynamic area', and the Metering to the middle 'centre-weighted' also. For very small objects, I use the bottom setting, the 'single area' AF, the equivalent 'spot' for metering. These will revert when using Auto setting, but will stay the same in Advanced settings unless you alter them. They can be altered by pressing the 'i' button bottom left of the monitor twice, then manouver to the icons near the right bottom, pressing 'OK' in the middle of your direction knob will open up to the settings area where you can change them. In the 'P' programme you can set the ISO to whatever you think is necessary, and the camera will do the rest, but if the ISO is incorrect for the conditons the camera will alter it. This can jam the camera temporarily, so try to get the ISO right. You need to enable the ISO Auto in the Custom settings menu for it to work automatically in the Advanced programmes.

Try using your 'EV' setting too, which can be used in the Advanced programmes (P,S,A,M). I use it at full -5 for moon shots with good effect, there is a command dial at the back which you rotate while pressing the button behind the shutter button. It is useful with birds in trees in poor light, upping the EV can make a good shot opposed to a useless one.

If you want to alter the f/numbers in the 'P' you can do that by using the command dial, look at the Mode P instructions in the Manual where it says "Flexible Programme".

I have tried many different things, but in the end often settle for just a few options which are useful to me. It's always good to go back to the Manual though to read again and again, things you learn soon get forgotten as there is a lot to learn with this camera. It can hurt your head, at times it's a need to get a certain picture which will make you explore the options. It can be done! The problem with learning is a moving bird or animal won't wait while you try different things, so you need to be familiar with your camera sufficiently to make quick changes.

Just in case you haven't found out, in your 'Custom Setting Menu' (the pencil) only shows 6 options where there are 17 in all. To be able to view all 17 options, you have to go to the 'Set Up' menu (the wrench) then select the CSM/Setup menu, select 'FULL' then press OK.

I hope that makes things a little clearer for you! :smoke:

Janet
 
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