[kittykat23uk]

Hi all,

Just returned form a wet and wild time up in Scotland, primarily on Mull with a couple of days either side in the Newton Stewart area of Dumfries and Galloway.

We spent the first day at the red kite feeding station at Laurieston where we got great view of 50+ kites along with attendant crows, gulls and a nice kestrel which took to hovering right in front of us. The weather was rather grey and wet.

The next day we drove to Mull via Oban, stopping en route from Craignure for our first sighting of a probable Golden Eagle (the lighting was very dull but shape and structure looked right and some other ladies were already watching it and said it was a GE. Still a bit hesitant to count it, so early in the trip with the light being the way it was, although Ian was also convinced that was what it was. Later we settled in to our accommodation- the Sheiling at Ardrioch farm run by Pam and Arthur Brown, who really made us feel welcome. Arthur puts out lots of food for the birds and the garden is full of Siskins and chaffinches with the odd Yellowhammer and Bullfinch thrown in.

Unfortunately we really picked a bad week weather-wise, with heavy rain showers with more persistent rain and windy conditions most days.

Despite this, on Sunday we took the Discover Mull tour which was a fantastic way to start the week. Arthur found us all the stars of Mull, starting with hen harriers, then White Tailed Eagle - two pairs, one which we got some shots of. We stopped to look for Golden Eagle and after spotting some movement I managed to pick up a very distant bird perched on a crag. So distant in fact that it took me several minutes to convince everyone else that it was there in the scope! Eventually most people picked up on it. Arthur also got us onto a nice otter at Loch Na Keal along with red and fallow deer, red throated diver, merlin, and a few distant seabirds. On the way back we stopped at a site known for SEO and I managed to spot one. Of waders we saw Snipe, Oystercatcher, Curlew and common sandpiper- adding Lapwing later in the trip.

That night we sampled the local pub in Dervaig which does fantastic food- try the platters if you ever go- pricey but worth it! We also met Em who works for Turus Mara who run the trips to Staffa and Lunga to see the puffins. She immediately stood us a round of drinks and was really nice to us. An enjoyable evening later, we took a wander back to our lodgings on the way adding Tawny Owl.

We were due to do the Turus Mara trip on Monday, but when I called them I was told that it had been called off due to the poor weather. So we decided to revisit some of the sites for eagles and otters instead. The rain showers were quite persistent but we were able to find the otter we had seen the day before along with the White tailed and Golden Eagles (distant views of the latter). We also added red-breasted Merganser to our trip list.

Tuesday we were booked in for our eight hour whale watch explorer with Sealife Surveys. It started badly when Ian realised he had forgotten to transfer the payments over for our car insurance and almost missed the boat when he was on the phone to the insurers trying to sort it out. Sadly all we saw on the whale watching trip were a few seabirds, a couple of harbour porpoises (new for Ian) and common and grey seals. The sea was rough, the rain was pelting down and to make matters worse a lady fell off her seat and hurt her arm- so given these conditions it was decided to end the trip early. We did have the pleasure of an otter in the bay at Tobermory when we arrived back in and to be fair to Sealife Surveys, they really tried their best to give everyone a good time despite the weather and we were given a partial refund of £30.

Wednesday we were told the puffin trip was on, despite the dubious looking weather. The trip to the Treshnish Isles and Staffa was also very wet with a few of the passengers chucking up by the time we landed on Staffa and with the rain really chucking it down by the time we landed on Lunga. I braved the weather and got good shots of puffins and razorbill, Ian stayed on the boat! Perhaps in hindsight they should really have cancelled the trip. We also had basking shark between Staffa and Lunga (lifer for us!!). Ian almost didn't make it on this trip when he realised belatedly that we needed to refuel the car- Em came to our rescue by calling the garage in Salen and asking them to stay open long enough for us to get back there!

Thursday was again showery but not as bad as the previous two days and we returned to Loch Na Keal to try and photograph the White tailed eagles. We also spent a bit of time in Tobermory.

On Friday, being our last full day, we decided to go further afield to look for otters and found one male and a female and two cubs at Croggan along with another distant golden eagle. We had hoped to try and get some closer shots of the female otter and her cubs but as we crept closer we saw two other people already watching them. One of which turned out to be some kind of professional photographer and we had inadvertently stumbled into his photo shoot! Needless to say he wasn't best pleased, but to be fair, the otters didn't move away too far when they saw us so the damage was minimal. However, it was embarrassing enough for us not to want to risk getting any closer, which was a bit disappointing with this being our last chance to get any good shots, although we were still able to watch them playing for a while and I managed a few distant shots.

Other birds seen included barn owl, black guillimot, manx shearwater, storm petrels, eider, rock pipit but nothing else spectacularly rare or unusual that we didn't expect to see.

Saturday we sadly left Mull and headed back to Newton Stewart for two days. Sunday we tried Kiroughtree for Red Squirrels- I had brief views of one (lifer!) then tried the Wood of Cree for Redstart, pied flycatcher and wood warbler- sadly I think we were a bit late in the season and we didn't see any of those. Only grey wagtails at the burns. Monday we returned to the red kite feeding station at Laurieston where the sun finally came out for a bit. Then we returned to Kirroughtree where I was able to locate the squirrel feeding table and managed to get a couple of shots of the squirrels! Yay!

Also had dipper and tree pipit, as well as a stoat at the Netherbarr Steading where we were staying.

A link to all my photos from this trip and a small selection below:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/8773601...7606072883695/

[Marcus Conway - ebirder]

Great trip report. You did well to see so many raptors in the weather. I am on a sealife weekender at the end of Spetember so it is reasuring to hear they are good operaters!

Finding a geagle on the deck too - check you!

[Jos Stratford]

Wow, dedication! With weather like that, I am not sure I would have done half what you did. Despite the weather though, a dead good trip by the sounds of it.

[joannec]

Very nice report Kittykat. Shame about the weather for you. I'm planning a trip to Mull in August so especially interested in your report, so thanks for that. Did you need to book the ferry from Oban or can you just turn up? I had thought of pre booking a whale watching trip but am hesitant for the reasons you highlight concerning the bad weather....I think we'll take our chances as a day of throwing up wouldn't be worth it even for whales and sea birds. I'm not that diehard!

I think we'll find our own way around; I've been to Mull before, but a long time ago but it's not that big......we'll go to Iona too.

The kite feeding station at Laurieston sounds good too, didn't know about it. I'll look that up.

Nice pictures too.

Joanne

[Ben Nevis]

Great report,just a shame about the weather.Come back in January and you shall probably get drier weather..!

[Farnboro John]

Nice pix! The eagle looks like its by Loch na Keal, we saw two there but neither came close enough for shots. Great views though. Weather is rubbish at the moment, you did well to see so much. Staying in buildings rather than tents definitely has advantages.

We've been out with Sea Life Surveys a couple of years ago and they were very good. They got us one Minke Whale and had to work really hard to find that, but they didn't mind putting the effort in. We were rather earlier in the season which may have been a problem.

John

[d.steeley]

Hi Kittykat, you obviously had the good and bad side of Mull during your trip. We are going to Mull the week after next and will be staying by the shore of Loch na Keal near the footpath to Ben More. We sometimes see the WTSE along there but only by chance, usually by the fish farm at Knock. Was this where you saw them? Would love to see SEO and Hen Harrier, can you recommend a good viewing spot for these. (PM me if you wish).

Thanks

Dave

[Sandra (Taylor)]

Super report Kittykat. We've had atrocious weather too on Mull - the first time we were there was torrential rain for a week! And the car broke down - the AA in its wisdom sent us to a garage right down at Fionnaphort and we were in the middle of the island! what was wrong with Tobermory I wonder!

But the waterfalls look spectacular when its raining and we saw a GE sheltering deep in a fir tree on the Glen More road but we couldn't stop otherwise the car wouldn't have started again!!

You had a super tally of birds notwithstanding the weather. You'll need to go back again now to see what's around when the weather's better. As if you need an excuse!

Sandra

[kittykat23uk]

Thanks everyone, will try and answer as many questions as possible.

Joanne: Yes you should book the ferry in advance if you go from Oban- they do take standby passengers but no guarantee you will get on. Cost was £93 for two people and car. The other option is to get the ferry further up the coast Lochaline to Fishnish I think- cheaper though and apparently no need to book in advance.

The Sealife survey trip I would suggest booking in advance if you are keen as I noticed that many days were full. I hope you have better weather than us!

Discover Mull tour or similar, is well worth it to get to know where the birds are. Mull may be smallish but where the eagles are nesting is not easy to spot unless you know where to look. Either that or just drive around until you spot a group of birders with scopes! 

Kite feeding is at 2PM and well worth a visit if you are in the area.

Jos, Marcus, Ben: Thanks, yes not such a bad trip when I look back on it though the rain did get us down a bit! Several lifers, around 76 bird species on Mull and a few more on the way there and back.

John/Dave: Yes the eagles were photographed at Loch Na Keal- you maybe get one or two chances like this in a single day when the parents change over. We were lucky twice- once with these shots and once on the Sunday when Ian got some flight shots with his canon (yet to be uploaded). The birds will disappear off hunting for many hours while one stays in the trees- very distant when perched in the trees. Listen out for the gulls! They hate the eagles and really mob them when they make a fly past.

As for SEOs IIRC the one we saw was on the B8073 between Dervaig and Calgary. There’s a fenced off area which is “vole heaven” they are around there. The Hen harriers were also seen along there and also at Loch Na Keal. We also had Merlin at Loch Na Keal.

Sandra: thanks, sorry you had bad weather too! Off to warmer climes end of October- Botswana and then back to India in February! But will certainly return to Scotland at some point!

[Andy in West Oz]

Cool pics, Kittykat and great report. Looking forward to your reports from Botswana and India! Lucky!

[Farnboro John]

Re ferries I generally use the Lochaline - Fishnish which is about £20 for two adults and a car. It runs about hourly and I've never booked it or had a problem getting on yet. You do have to take another ferry to get to it, the Corran ferry on Loch Linnhe (£6.20 for a car this year) - but that plods backwards and forwards all day, so there isn't usually a wait. I've never failed to get on that first go either but I think it might get crowded in summer.

John

[Brian Stone]

I'd agree with John although I've been held up at both ferries at busy times before - Corran can be particularly bad (up to 2 hours wait) going east on Saturday mornings in school holidays. Another advantage is you get to see a bit of Loch Sunart (which you won't regret) and there is a good chance of eagles on the drive across Morvern (a lamentably underwatched area sandwiched as it is between Ardamurchan and Mull).

[joannec]

Thanks for the 'heads up' about the ferry from Lochaline to Fishnish John and Brian; a big savings in price so we'll probably do that......looks like that area could be quite nice too even though it means some extra miles.

Kitykat: this thread has got me all fired up and excited now. Can't wait to go.

Joanne

[Farnboro John]

Originally Posted by joannechattaway

Thanks for the 'heads up' about the ferry from Lochaline to Fishnish John and Brian; a big savings in price so we'll probably do that......looks like that area could be quite nice too even though it means some extra miles.

Kitykat: this thread has got me all fired up and excited now. Can't wait to go.

Joanne

Actually, depending which way you go (I always go Doune - Callander - Glencoe - Corran ferry) there isn't much difference and you don't have to go through Glasgow that way, which is a big bonus.

You also go through Tyndrum so could take in the Rosefinch at the Real Food Cafe. Its worth a stakeout, a real stunner.

Wish I was going back soon, as well!

John

[kittykat23uk]

Hope you have a great time Joanne!

[Dave Kennedy]

Kittykat, may I ask where you intend going in Botswana? Also, have you visited there before? I spend a fair amount of time there, and my son lives in Maun on the edge of the Delta. It may be that between us we can provide some useful information. What will be the nature of your visit? Self-guided, or with a tour operator? You are coming at a good time - the migrants will have returned, and the battles for territory will be underway. This of course means maximum visibility, and plenty calls to guide you in to your targets. I am sure you will have a wonderful visit.
Well done in Mull. Oddly, I was in UK (including the West Highlands up in Salen, Ardnamurchan) from around 12th May until 17th June, and barely had a day's rain. Some you win, and some you lose, I guess.
Best wishes
Dave Kennedy

[kittykat23uk]

Originally Posted by Dave Kennedy

Kittykat, may I ask where you intend going in Botswana? Also, have you visited there before? I spend a fair amount of time there, and my son lives in Maun on the edge of the Delta. It may be that between us we can provide some useful information. What will be the nature of your visit? Self-guided, or with a tour operator? You are coming at a good time - the migrants will have returned, and the battles for territory will be underway. This of course means maximum visibility, and plenty calls to guide you in to your targets. I am sure you will have a wonderful visit.
Well done in Mull. Oddly, I was in UK (including the West Highlands up in Salen, Ardnamurchan) from around 12th May until 17th June, and barely had a day's rain. Some you win, and some you lose, I guess.
Best wishes
Dave Kennedy

Thanks Dave! I'm going on a group tour with a company called Explore. The itinery is online:

http://www.explore.co.uk/Explore/UI/...ossiers/BW.pdf

Basically its an overland safari, mainly camping. Takes in the Okavango Panhandle on a houseboat, then overland via the Caprivi strip to Livingstone, then down to Chobe (Serondella and Savuti Channel) and Moremi game reserves (Kwai and Xaxanaka). I have not been to Botswana before, but went to Kenya in November 2006 and had such a wonderful time. I saw all of the big five there bar leopard. I'm really hoping I might get lucky with either leopard or wild dogs on this trip but not holding my breath of course! I expect the birdlife will be pretty amazing at any rate- would particularly like to see african skimmer, carmine bee-eater, saddle billed stork and Pel's fish Owl. So I have high hopes for this trip. I have been reading up a lot about the area in Lonely Planet and Bradt travel guides but would certainly appreciate your own insight into the area.

All the best!

Jo

[Dave Kennedy]

OK, Jo,

Here's the first info about your trip. I have attached a couple of lists. One refers to Delta specials, those birds which are particularly associated with the Okavango Delta. The other lists good sightings which you might expect to achieve during your trip. The lists, of course, are not exclusive - birds have wings, and any of the birds listed could be found virtually anywhere during your trip. I have listed the favoured habitats for each bird, and have listed where I have actually seen a given bird. Your skimmers need sandy islands to breed. These only appear once water levels in the area start to fall, but hopefully you should be OK to see them, either in the Okavango panhandle, or on islands in the Chobe and Zambezi rivers. Swamp boubous duet with a ratchety rattle and a virtually simultaneous clear whistle - you should spot them easily by listening for them. Pel's fishing Owl is pure luck - I've been lucky, and have seen several, but many birders never see them. They are very gingery in the field, so watch for movement and a flash of ginger in the trees. They like to roost/rest in large trees over water - sycamore figs, jackalberries and the like.

Don't worry about my several references to trees - ask your tour guide once you're there, and he will show them to you. They are mostly quite easy to identify, and once you've learned them it will make a big difference to your birding.

You are going to one of the very best areas for birding - I love the place to bits, and go as often as I can. I will post some more info shortly, but I am sure that has given you enough to get your teeth into. Please do not hesitate to ask if you have any questions.

Best wishes,
Dave

[Dave Kennedy]

Stand by, Jo,
The WORD file I attached appears to be missing. Let me try to figure this one out ASAP

Dave

[Dave Kennedy]

Hope this works.
D

[Geoff Brown]

Well Dave I opened that file OK and I'm not going to Botswana!

[Jos Stratford]

Originally Posted by kittykat23uk

would particularly like to see african skimmer, carmine bee-eater, saddle billed stork and Pel's fish Owl

All should be pretty near guaranteed. Pel's is perhaps tricky, but a campsite at Shakawe (on the pan handle up towards Namibia) has them in the campsite, along with White-backed Night Herons roosting nearby, easily seen by boat. I was doing study in the delta for a while and also saw both these species at other spots too, but Shakawe was certainly the easiest. I would guess your guide either knows these sites or has another stake out for this most-wanted special.

[kittykat23uk]

Thanks Dave and Jos for all your help! I can't wait for my trip now! :)

[Jos Stratford]

Originally Posted by kittykat23uk

Thanks Dave and Jos for all your help! I can't wait for my trip now! :)

The river up and down from Shakawe, depending on water levels, has the African Skimmers too. Do you get any time free in the area before/after the guided bit of your trip ...there are some very easy areas to bird independantly that would not even require a car. I'll forward details if need be.

[Dave Kennedy]

Originally Posted by kittykat23uk

Thanks Dave and Jos for all your help! I can't wait for my trip now! :)

Just a word, Jo, about malaria. It may be that you know all this - but no harm done, others might also find it useful. This extract comes from an earlier post in the 'South African Birding' local patch.

Re Malaria -

Some of the current prophylactics have induced unpleasant side effects in users. Anyone wishing to use such prophylactics should start using them some time before leaving for overseas to determine whether that particular prophylactic is satisfactory. Personally, we use the antibiotic DOXYCYCLIN, and have suffered no unpleasant side effects. Note also that it is important to continue taking prophylactics for the specified time after leaving the malarial area. Don't skimp on this - it is important. And finally, should you develop flu-like symptoms once you are back home, TELL your doctor that you have recently been in a malarial area. British/European doctors, in the normal run of things, are not expecting malaria in their consulting rooms, and may mis-diagnose the symptoms.
Best prophylactic of all is not to get bitten - and you can do a lot to achieve this by using proprietary bug sprays on yourself and in your accommodation. Long sleeves and long trousers in the evening are also helpful. Mosquitoes, like midgies, cannot fly in moving air, so a fan can be a great help at night to keep them away. LOOK for them before going to bed - they don't come in swarms like midgies. At most you might find one or two parking off on the wall or ceiling, and then you can blatter them with a towel or something. Remember that not all mosquitoes carry malaria - only the Anopheles mosquito - and she has a characteristic head-down posture while sitting on a wall or ceiling. Even then, it is only the female which is the carrier, and of course many of them are NOT carrying malaria. So simple precautions and sensible behaviour can go a along way to minimising your chances of contracting the disease.
It might be a good idea to contact, prior to your trip, an organisation such as the British Airways Travel Clinics, of one of the Institutes for Tropical Diseases. They will have the very latest information on available prophylactics, side effects etc.

Now let's turn to cheerier things - here are a few foretastes of what you can look forward to..............

The bee-eater was sitting in a fence in Maun. The stork is a female - see her yellow eye? Males have dark brown eyes. She was photographed at Nxabega in the Delta. The pair of Wattled Cranes also comes from Nxabega. Water lilies are the prefered habitat for pygmy geese...they feed on the water lily seed pods. And that beautiful young lady leopard crossed our path on three successive days at Little Vumbura, in the north of the Delta.

Best wishes,
Dave Kennedy