[stephennj]

254 Total Species counted
43 Endemics/near Endemics
29 Hummingbirds species
180 Lifers


This is my trip report for our exciting Costa Rica Feb. 2008 interior birding trip , the itinerary included many Middle to Central Highland elevations as well as the Atlantic Lowlands. Participants were myself and my father , Peter. We live in New Jersey USA. The guide was the unparalleled Jean Jacques Gozard who resides near San Ramon, Costa Rica , he is a top guide of the Country and heads Amazillia Tours , his knowledge of birding goes way beyond the confides of Costa Rica as he heads tours throughout Central America and many of the Carribean Islands he also occasionally guides in Africa and Europe. He is Top-notch and I highly recommend him. Jean Jacques's local patch is the Pacific lowlands/Carrara/ area but we did not include that location on this trip. Here is his website if you want further info on this wonderful guide : http://www.amaziliatours.com/EN/index.htm

This was our Itinerary which Jean worked to help create , this is not his usual tour but he wanted to appease my desire for Highland and Middle elevation species and hitting hummingbird heavy locations. It was a custom route but very successful and I was happy we did it this way.

Day 0 - Jan 25 2008 - CENTRAL VALLEY San Jose & Bougainvillea grounds
DAY 1 - CENTRAL VALLEY / ATLANTIC LOWLANDS La Paz / Virgen Del Socorro / Gavilan Lodge
DAY 2 - ATLANTIC LOWLANDS Gavilan / La Selva O.T.S./ Braullio Carrillo
DAY 3 - ATLANTIC LOWLANDS & FOOTHILLS Gavilan / La Selva O.T.S./ Braullio Carrillo
DAY 4 - ATLANTIC SLOPE & MOUNTIAN HIGHLANDS Rancho Naturalista / Cerro De La Muerte
DAY 5 - MOUNTIAN HIGHLANDS Dota Valley / Paramo Habitat / Los Santos
DAY 6 - MOUNTIAN HIGHLANDS Dota Valley / Los Santos / Mirador property


DAY 0 : San Jose & Bougainvillea grounds
19 Species Observed
Highlights and Specialties :

BLUE-CROWNED MOTMOT
CRIMSON-FRONTED PARAKEET
HOFFMANN'S WOODPECKER
We took a 5 hr. flight from Newark NJ to San Jose and then cabbed to the Bougainvilla Hotel. Our first half-day of birding began in late afternoon after checking in to the Bouganvilla Hotel located near San Jose in the Central Valley http://www.hb.co.cr/ . This is a popular Lodge for visiting birders and a great introduction to Costa Rica birding , it boasts very expansive gardens and a birding lookout tower . Pete and I eagerly birded the grounds on our own on this day and then Jean Jacques made an impromptu appearance that night to make sure we were good to go in the A.M. We managed to get close-up views of the truly remarkable Blue-crowned Motmot , our first Motmot and what a stunning bird ! Our target was Prevost's Ground-Sparrow but we missed it and Jean promised we would give a good try for it again the next A.M. Other birds we tallied were two near endemics - Hoffman's Woodpecker and several flocks of Crimson-fronted Parakeet. Some other birds here were more abundant and we would see them again in our travels : Rufous-tailed Hummingbird, Blue-Grey Tanager , Groove-billed Ani ,Inca Dove and Rufous-collared Sparrow. We found some familiar birds to us like Baltimore Oriole and Eastern Kingbird who breed in New Jersey during the summer season. After this teaser day of Neotropical birding, we were stoked and really anticipating the wonders that lay before us for the next several days in Costa Rica !

[stephennj]

DAY 1 - CENTRAL VALLEY / ATLANTIC LOWLANDS

La Paz / Virgen Del Socorro / Gavilan Lodge
112 Species Observed, 12 Hummingbird Species
Highlights and Specialties:

BLACK GUAN
MAGENTA-THROATED WOODSTAR
AMERICAN DIPPER
RED-HEADED BARBET
EMERALD TOUCANET
GOLDEN-HOODED TANAGER
PREVOST'S GROUND-SPARROW
Our first full birding day in C.R. was outstanding with a whopping 112 Species and perfect weather. Jean came to join up with us at sunrise to help find Prevost's Ground Sparrow at the Bougainvilla Hotel grounds and sure enough they were there in the A.M. near the compost pile of the gardens located by the observation tower .The exceptional White-eared Ground Sparrow and Canebreak (Plain) Wren were also in the same vicinity. After we found the Ground-Spoarrows we piled in Jean's van and headed straight to La Paz Waterfall Park about 40 min north of the hotel . Along the road we made a quick pit-stop for coffee and found Red-faced Spinetail , Black Pheobe and Short-tailed Hawk. When we reached La Paz it seemed like the avian floodgates had opened wide as we witnessed one of the most amazing bird displays I had ever seen. Inside the park were platform feeders and hummingbird feeders set up along the trails. The fruit attracted a feeding frenzy of colorful birds : Silvery-throated Tanager , Passarini's Tanager , Palm Tanager , Rose-breasted Grossbeak , Prong-billed Barbet , Crimson-collared Tanager , Summer Tanager all mobbing the banannas and melons like trout in a fish farm at dinnertime . The next spectacle was at the nectar feeders , a full 10 species of hummingbirds were zipping in and out of the area and I thought I had really lost my mind , in fact I don't think I have ever been the same since ! Violet Sabrewing , Green Hermit , Purple-throated Mountain-Gem , Magnificent Hummingbird , Coppery -Headed Emerald , Green Thorntail , Black-bellied Hummingbird ....my head was spinning .... even Slaty Flowerpiercer came in to outstage the Banannaquits ! Jean and Pete had to drag me out of there as I admitted I could have spent the rest of the day just sitting there. The feeder area was surrounded by Cannas and other nectar plants that stretched all the way up the hill along the trails that lead to the main entrance. It was quite a view , and the birds were teeming.

We finally moved on and did a little proper birding along the La Paz trails . Jean sniffed out the difficult Black Guan and we added Grey-breasted Wood-Wren , Spotted Barbtail , Golden-winged Warbler , Dark Pewee , and Chestnut-capped Brushfinch. Then it was back thru the feeder area and on to Virgen Del Socoro at 700 meters. Along the way we stopped at Chinchona resturaunt for some lunch and once again there were feeders set up here.


to be continued....

[stephennj]

Here are some of the hummers at La Paz , All of them were memorable birds but getting Magenta-throated Woodstar and Coppery-headed Emerald was the icing on the cake. Green Hermit and Violet Sabrewing were the largest hummers at this location .

[Dave B Smith]

Nice report and photos. Looking forward to the next installments.

[madamcoolpix]

Marvellous, Stephen, your description of the activity at the nectar feeders made tears of thrill come to my eyes!!! That's a show I'd love everybody had the oportunity to witness!!!

The pictures are beautiful, and perfect to illustrate your report... I love this kind of "illustrated diaries"!

Go on, Stephen, we want to know moooooooooooooooore!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Birdingcraft]

Can't wait to see more!

[costaricafinca]

Stephen, a good report. I haven't been to La Paz yet, although it is 'on the list'. I want to see all these hummers, but prefer to see them 'au natural...'
We are lucky that we host 8 species of hummingbirds throughout the year, just with our garden offerings, including Plain capped star throat, Green breasted mangoes, Steely vented, Garden emerald, Cinnamon, Rufous tailed, Cavenet's/Salvin's ...the last four species staying year round...and the migrating Ruby throats who should be on their way by now.
I am really not a 'birder' but just enjoy seeing and photographing any species that is around. We used to live quite near Rancho Naturalista and enjoyed many of the same birds you saw there.
I will watch for further installments!
Photo of yesterdays visit by a female Hoffman's woodpecker

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y136/costaricafinca/IMG_5133b.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y13.../IMG_5136B.jpg

[stephennj]

So happy to see people chiming in !
Marian you will enjoy this report especially because you were there !
I will get back to the report later tonight I believe. Patricia those are excellent Hoffmans Woodpecker shots ! Thanks for adding the pics , strangely we saw a Hoffman's at Rancho as well . Patricia how does it feel to live in paradise ?

[stephennj]

Cinchona lunch stop is located along the roadside not far from La Paz . Here you can sit down and eat a nice little lunch or breakfast on their patio that overlooks the valley below . Jean convinced the owner of this establishment years ago to start offering food and nectar for the birds. Well the birds came and so word spread of the new backyard attractions. The birders and tourists soon followed , and they have a nice little business going there. We were joined for lunch by impossibly close views of excellent birds . Emerald Toucanets fed on banannas at an arms reach away , they were followed by the unusual and brilliant Red-headed Barbet , Prong-billed Barbet , Buff-throated Saltator and a handful of Tanager species. The nectar feeders had Brown Violet-ear , Green Thorntail and White-bellied Mountian-Gem. They should re-name the place "Lifers and Lunch".

After Cinchona we drove north up to Virgen del Socorro to target American Dipper . We found Dipper almost immediately and a similar bird that was on my wishlist : Torrent Tyrannulet which is a streamside flycatcher . We added Montezuma Oropendola which is a gargantuan and reasonably common Blackbird species sporting a multicolored bill and face . Overhead was Grey Hawk and Double-toothed Kite . Along the stream we found Olive-crowned Yellowthroat , Chestnut-sided Warbler and one of my favorites - the lovable American Tufted Flycatcher . It was getting to late afternoon and the birding actually started slowing down so we drove off to Gavilan Lodge , our last destination of the day near Puerto Viejo.

[madamcoolpix]

Ah, memories!

It has been great to compare your findings and mine in these two places, Steve! I thought my Cinchona stop was good but yours was fantastic!!! I missed the Emerald Toucanet, and the Red-headed Barbet (). But found plenty of Hummingbirds species!

The pictures are beautiful again, and so are Patricia's Hoffmann's Woodpecker!

[birdboybowley]

Brings back good memories Steve - I missed the Dipper at Virgen so well done.
Also good to see the Prevost's are back in the excellent Bougainvillea now. We had great views too last Dec, but apparently they went missing into the New Year and still weren't there in July. Lovely birds.
Cinchona restaurant - how cool was that place? Did you hold their tarantula??
La Paz - bit overpriced and so very touristy but well worth it for the hummingbird gallery alone, definitely!
Ads

[stephennj]

Hi Ads and I'm glad you are enjoying , yes our guide handled the Tarantula but I was a little pre-occupied with the Toucanets .

[stephennj]

We arrived at Gavilan Lodge http://www.gavilanlodge.com/
near Puerto Viejo on the Pacific Slope and unpacked for the night . This is a low-budget birding lodge very close to La Selva Biological Station and it sereved it's purpose well for us. The meals were decent and they served cold beer , no air-conditioning in the rooms but the showers worked and had hot water.... and hey they had fruit tables set up for the birds so it's all good ! Before dinner and bed we hit the trails around the grounds which also bumped up to the Rio Sarapiqui , this was the humid Atlantic lowlands , the forest floor was covered with blooming Heiconias so I was on the lookout for Hermits and Hummers. Jean kept inspecting a tree that had a reported Mottled owl pair .

Once again we were hammered with alot of species and since we were in a different habitat , alot were Life birds. Along the lowland stream we found Black-cheeked Woodpecker , Black-headed Saltator , Banded-backed Wren , Bay Wren , the interesting Orange-billed Sparrow , and Cocoa Woodcreeper. When we emerged from the woods we were welcomed by the handsome Long-tailed Tyrant , a sleek black Flycatcher with a powder white cap and a long tail. This bird was a real looker.
As we sat down for dinner we watched the procession of birds at the platfrorm feeder . This was another outsanding Tanager show . Here comes Dusky-faced Tanager , White-lined Tanager , Black-coweled Oriole and then his highness entered , a stunning multicolored Golden-hooded Tanager ! (4th pic on the right of photo) . For dessert we had Red-throated Ant Tanager and then a shocking female Green Honeycreeper at dusk , we never saw a male on the trip, but hey ...

This ends day 1 , very difficult to absorb over 100 species in a day but we were not complaining !

[stephennj]

A few more shots of day 1 , the last photo is the Gavilan Lodge property.

[stephennj]

DAY 2 - ATLANTIC LOWLANDS

Gavilan grounds / La Selva O.T.S. / El Tigre Grasslands
109 Species Observed
Highlights and Specialties:

GREAT TINAMOU
GREAT CURASSOW
RUFOUS MOTMOT
FASCIATED ANTSHRIKE
GREAT GREEN MACAW
ROUFOUS-TAILED JACAMAR
NICARAGUAN SEED-FINCH
GREEN IBIS

GOOORRARARARRRAAAAARRRRR !!!!!!!!!!! Day 2 started with a wake-up call we will never forget. At 5:30 A.M. the roar from the forest felt like it was right in our room , I jumped out of bed to see what the fuss was. Looking around outside was not going to help because it was still pitch dark out. These were Howler Monkeys and they are the loudest animal in the New World , no need for an alarm clock at Gavilan Lodge ! After a quick breakfast we walked the trails around Gavilan before heading to La Selva. Our first bird was Rufous Mourner and a slew of new species began to appear. We closely followed Jean and watched the parade : a very regal Pale-billed Woodpecker , Grey-chested Dove , Red-lored Parrot , Olive-throated Parakeet and then an energetic pair of Buff-rumped Warblers , a target bird for me. Jean was intent on getting Sunbittern here , it was a no-show and we would try again two more times.

I was anticipating this day for a long time , because this was the day we visited La Sleva Biological Station.
http://www.1costaricalink.com/eng/we...pv-laselva.htm .This is one of the finest undisturbed tropical rainforests in Central America and is home to more than half of the species that are seen in CR , we probably saw around 70. Once we paid our fee we were greeted by the bizzare Keel-billed Toucan and Chestnut-mandibled Toucan in the fruiting trees . Before entering one of the trails we met up with the impressive Great Curraso and then Long-billed Hermit at a clump of Heliconias. The trails were amazing , some choice birds here were Rufous Motmot , Great Green MaCaw , Slaty-tailed Trogon , Cinnamon Becard , Olive-backed Euphonia . At one point Jean turned and quietly motioned to us and we saw a small band of Collared Peccary crossing the path right behind us ! We were stalled out by a little rain ...er downpour... and then continued on for more birding. In the thicket Jean spotted Great Tinamou , then we caught on to a band of White-collared Manakins clacking and moonwalking in the understory . Holy Cow they were cool ! The show wasn't over as we next witnessed a beautiful female Fasciated Antshrike , Black-throated Wren , White-breasted Wood-Wren and our first White-necked Jacobin of the trip.

By now it was time for lunch so we pulled out of La Selva to a little nearby roadside stop. This was prime habitat for Nicaraugan Seed-Finch and we found a few in the grassland by the luncheonette . Along a stream we found Purple Gallanule and Northern Jacana. We arrived back at La Selva for a few afternoon hours of birding and tallied up a pair of Rufous-tailed Jacamar , then a fluttering and looping Purple-crowned Fairy , what a beautiful hummer and I was surprised by it's style of flight which reminded me more of a butterly than a hummingbird. Other birds were Bright-rumped Atilla , Crested Guan , Black-crowned Tityra ,and the absoutely fabulous and tough Chestnut-colored Woodpecker . We finished up with a proud male Black-throated Trogon quietly perched and posing for us back at the entrance road.

[stephennj]

Almost stepped on a Poision-Dart Frog at La Selva (pic 2)

[stephennj]

We came back to Gavialn property before it got dark. Then we hit the trail around Gavilan again. It was another hour or two of birding before dinner . The Gavialn trail is sometimes a sloppy mess at the Sarapiqui riverside , which consists of about half of their trails . The ground is spoungy soft and there are real basic log bridges over feeders streams and pools , this all kindof made it fun , good Kingfisher habitat and we saw a few Ringed . Neotropic Cormrant and Spotted Sandpiper were common here. There is a good sized woodland track between the River and the Lodge , enough to support Howler Money anyway .They have some farmland and more open habitat woodland on the other side of the property.

The trail was productive again with some new-familiar faces and the following Life birds : Black-striped Sparrow , Grey-headed Chalacha , Tropical Pewee , Dusky-capped Flycatcher . Orange-billed Sparrow was becoming recognizable in the wooded area again and they were doing alot of calling and just general activity. When we got back to the Lodge a young Sweedish duo reported to us a Green Ibis pair . This suddenly became a five-man rush back down the trail to get the Ibis before complete sundown , it was getting dark allready. I was anxious because I had the bird memorised from studying the fieldguide before the trip. I could tell Jean was excited because he hadn't seen one in quite a while , it's a strictly East-Coast bird in CR and not all too common . The Sweedes re-found the pair and we got some low-lit but exciting views , I could certainly see the green on them ! This was one of the best sightings for us on the trip. While having dinner later that night at the Lodge we saw several Short-tailed Nighthawks hawking insects . Nightjars and pleasant dreams !

[madamcoolpix]

WOW, WOW, WOW!!! Just catched up with your trip report and I'm thrilled again!!! Plenty of birds I saw... and others that I missed like the Nighthawk, the Jacamar, Long-tailed Tyrant... I regret I didn't have a proper camera to immortalize more of the birds we saw...

Good idea to post views of the places, it adds to the feeling of your report!

Originally Posted by birdboybowley

Did you hold their tarantula??

Originally Posted by stephennj

yes our guide handled the Tarantula but I was a little pre-occupied with the Toucanets .

I didn't. I was suggested to do it and I assure you a thought seriously to do it as a proof of my bravery but at the last moment I lacked the courage!

Keep updating, Stephen, I'm enjoying your report very much!!!

[Birdingcraft]

Yes, please keep posting along with more photos! This is just as exciting for me to read and live here (although maybe its because my one month old daughter has limited my birding as of late). BTW, where did you take the pics of Common Bush Tanagers?

[stephennj]

Patrick the Common Bush-Tanagers photo is from La Paz , this is the only place we found them on the trip. Adding a few more scene shots as Marian suggested from day 2 . I will continue posting some scenery photos.

1- Montezuma Oropendola nesting colony at La Selva
2- La Selva footbridge near entrance
3- La Selva trails
4- Sarapiqui River at Gavilan Lodge , Atlantic lowlands

[madamcoolpix]

I've been swinging on that footbridge too!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

More great memories, Stephen!!! That bridge provided me with a magnificent view of a female Fasciated Antshrike right in the tree on the left by the bridge, at eye level!!!

We didn't go into La Selva to the other side of the bridge, but birded for more than an hour from it and in the entrance to the place, where the visitors centre is. Fantastic "basic" birding!!! I wonder what it would have been to be into the reserve... a madness for sure!!!

The hanging nests of the Montezuma Oropendolas are another great memory, along with the stunning sound these birds make! I should have tried to record it with the video of the camera!

Waiting for the next episode! Cheers, Stephen!

[stephennj]

Marian I was expecting to see Crocidiles or something man-eating in that river but nope. We were lucky enough to see the female Fasciated Antshrike as well , our only one was here. The Orapendolas sound like something from a synthesizer ! So glad you are enjoying the report !!!




DAY 3 - ATLANTIC LOWLANDS & FOOTHILLS

Gavilan / La Selva O.T.S./ Braullio Carrillo
85 Species Observed
Highlights and Specialties:

BARE-THROATED TIGER-HERON
BAT FALCON
SNOWY COTINGA
WHITE-COLLARED MANAKIN
BI-COLORED ANTBIRD
LATTICE-TAILED TROGON
YELLOW-EARED TOUCANET


Our morning started with the now expected roar of the Howler Monkey troop in the pre-dawn hour . This got us up early enough to witness our second Nightjar species in CR with a few whirling Paraques as daylight began . It's so hard to get Nightjars where I live and I find this family most interesting , I was very happy to see them on this trip. The big plan for the day was to bird Braulio Carrillo National Park which was due south of our location , and then travel twoards Rancho Naturalista. The first order of business would be breakfast and a quick final lap around the Gavilan trails. The fruit station brought in the usual suspects , dominated by Passerini's Tanager (the females are very attractive) and Yellow-billed Cacique , Black-cowled Oriole and the occasional jumbo-sized Black-headed Saltator . In the trails we found Mourning Warbler of all things , this is a tough bird back in New Jersey and if you are very lucky you can track one down in spring migration. We tacked on two new Gavilan lifers and they were good ones : Bare-throated Tiger Heron and Bat Falcon . Good to see Buff-rumped Warbler and Orange-billed Sparrow one last time , unfourtunately Sunbittern never showed for us. We packed our things and began our way to Braulio Carrillo.

Our drive to Braulio Carillo was a bust because of a landslide on the highway on rt. 32 , we had to figure out a new morning birding site . Jean decided our best bet was to bird the entrance road at La Selva . On the way to La Selva Jean asked us "Have you guys ever seen a Sloth before ?" .....our anwer ...."Well maybe in a Zoo I guess" . Jean quickly pulls off the road on rt. 4 and presents to us a Three-toed Sloth not 20 yards from the highway on a tree trunk. The Sloth was only 15 ft . up the tree slowly creeping along with a mosslike pelt and an almost human face . Perfectly camoflauged , and oblivious to our stares and camera shuttering . It was surreal ! One of the best moments of the trip.

[stephennj]

It's back to La Selva for us...


As we were pulling into the La Selva parking lot I noticed two white "doves" in flight and I screamed "All-White Birds !! White Becards ??!!" In my panic I could not put the proper words together from the field guide I had been studying , Jean fully knew what I was trying to say . He slammed on the brakes and we pile out , the birds are still in flight but by some act of God they decide to land on a set of trees still in our view . We quickly got our bins focused on them "Snowy Cotingas !!!" he yelled , yes we got Snowy Cotingas ! This drew a small crowd of birders who were in earshot of the commotion. Snowy Cotinga is a tough bird and another highlight of the trip , Jean commented that he hadn't seen one during his last eight trips to the CR Atlantic Lowlands . We finally calm down enough to bird the entrance road . Once again the birds start appearing and still a handful of new lifers. Here goes White-crowned Parrot , Pale-vented Pigeon , Black-cheeked Warbler and the tiny Yellow Tyrannulet , Pete plucks out a handsome Black-faced Grossbeak in the treeline.

We had more good looks at Black-throated Trogon and White-collared Manakin. At one point we ducked into a tall thicket that had small passeges tunneling through them which seemed like deer or mammal paths . Suddenly we realize that hummingbirds are using these tunneled pathways as highways and they zip by every few minutes . We locate a few perched birds and they are Scaly-breasted Hummingbird and a half Hummingbird/half Hermit Band-tailed Barbthroat ! We finish up the hike with a nice Rufous-sided Woodpecker which was on my wishlist . Back at the parking lot Jean makes some phone calls and decides it's safe to try our luck on the highway again for one last shot at Braulio Carrillo.

[madamcoolpix]

Snowy Cotinga!!! WOW!!! Look how jealous I am!!!

Great the encounter with the Sloth too, and love the Barbthroat pic!!!

Originally Posted by stephennj

I was expecting to see Crocidiles or something man-eating in that river but nope.

We saw them but in the Pacific Lowlands, in the Tarcoles River... colossal lizards, they are!!!

I'm dying to know what happened at Braulio Carrillo! Cheers, Stephen!

[Birdingcraft]

Beautiful pics as always! Shame that 32 was closed- happens once ine a while. I would love to bird it when closed- from the Carib slope on up to the landslide- roadside biridng in awesome habitat sans traffic!
I just visited the La Selva entrance road yesterday- birding seems even better than in past with more regeneration of forest. Had good variety species, Two-toed Sloth, and Howlers as well. They were building something at the entrance- I fear they may charge to bird the entrance road in near future.
Love the Barbtail pic as well! Hopefully I can follow your example. I also had Rufous winged Woodpecker! On a side note, the Scaly-breasted pic looks more like a Blue-throated Hummingbird.