[Max Levy]

Hi everyone.

I visited Panama from the 6th to the 23rd August last year with my parents. I had previously visited Costa Rica in 2003, so it wasn't my first experience of the spectacular avifauna of the neotropics, although that wasn't specifically a birding trip.

First we stayed at the Canopy Tower for 5 days, definitely the coolest hotel i've ever stayed in! We birded a lot from the tower as well as Semaphore Hill, Gamboa Town, Pipeline Road, Summit Ponds, the Botanical Gardens and the Chagres River plus a night drive down Semaphore Hill. The birding was amazing everywhere, and i particularly enjoyed Pipeline Road! Highlights included all of the Central panamanian Trogons, numerous Antbirds, Blue Cotinga, lots of Tanagers, some Manakins, Southern Bentbill, Common and Great Potoos, White Hawk and lotsa hummingbirds! My personal highpoint though was birding Pipeline Road for the second time with Jose. He heard a Streak chested Antpitta calling, and we wandered off the path to track it down. After ten or so minutes we caught sight of this little beauty! The spotted breast, large spectacles and strange shape were just so cool! Although its not so rare or hard to see as other Antpittas, I'd been waiting see one for a while and was delighted with the sighting!

After the intense birding at the Canopy Tower we headed into Chiriqui province to Cala Mia on Isla Boca Brava for a more relaxing few days on the Pacific Coast. Exploring the forest and coast I saw few new species but some really cool birds. Lance Tailed Manikins and Black Hooded Antshrikes were around but often hard to see. Spotted Sandpiper, Willet, Whimbrel and American Oystercatcher foraged along the shore and Brown Boobies were seen offshore. On one occasion while walking the forest, I saw a Black Hawk, which would be Mangrove as it was on the Pacific Coast. Does anyone know the current thinking on the Black Hawk complex?
A birding and snorkelling trip on a boat took us past a breeding colony of White Ibis. Sat on a rock a few miles offshore were two Blue Footed Booby, accompanied by two Browns. They cetainly lived up to their name!

More to follow tomorrow, when we went into the Chiriqui Highlands and then further East again to finish off...

[Max Levy]

Some photos I took at the Canopy Tower. All are digiscoped using a Swarovski 65 HD scope.



1. Up to three Common Aracaris sat close to the tower providing good photo opportunities.
2. A Spectacled Owl we saw at the Summit Ponds. (Forgot to mention this bird earlier.)
3. A Black Vulture strikes a pose near the tower.
4. One of two Three toed Sloths seen from the Canopy Tower.

[Birdingcraft]

Nice photos, especially that Spec. Owl! I live in Costa Rica and love birding in Panama- just great birding in general. Most people consider Mangrove Black hawk (me included) an invalid taxon at least in Costa Rica and Panama.

[stephennj]

Outstanding report Max and wow some great photos ! please don't hesitate to post more...

[Max Levy]

Thanks to both of you for the encouraging comments.
Birdingcraft- thanks for clearing that one up for me. I think it would be best to remove it from my life list unfortunately!

After staying on the Chiriqui coast we headed up into the highlands and stayed at the highly praised Los Quetzales lodge for 4 nights. As expected the dramatic change of terrain brought a host of new spcies. Upon arriving at the main part of the hotel in the town of Guadeloupe we saw up to 4 species of hummers on the hotel feeders at one time, an amazing sight! The large Violet Sabrewings were the dominant birds, fending off Magnificent Hummingbirds for a turn at the sugar water. Green Violet Ear and White Throated Mountain Gems also flew in for the feeders.

We stayed in cabin 2, up a long and bumpy road from the main town, although that was just part of the adventure. One of my targets was even seen on the first drive up: Slaty Flowerpiercer.

Soon after settling into the remote cabin we headed out for a walk with the help of Jonathon, one of Los Quetzales' bird guides. Groups of the charming Collared Redstart, Black cheeked Warbler, Yellow thighed Finch, Ruddy Treerunner and Yellow winged Vireo passed through, all lifers of course!
Waiting for us back at the cabin, feeding on seed was a Chesnut Capped Brush Finch, an absolute stunner and one of the favourites of the trip.

After meeting Ito, a Guadeloupe resident and superb bird guide the day before
we decided to go birding with him for our second and third days in the highlands. I'd previously heard of Ito since he guided Birdwatch magazine when they visited Panama. He certainly delivered one of, if not my best days birding ever!

We began birding around the cabins, and soon Ito heard a Silvery Fronted Tapaculo calling nearby. With the help of some call playback we all got brief views of it as it foraged low down in the dense undergrowth, often obstructed from view. We carried on picking up various new hummers and thrushes until we reached an area where a new cabin was being built, further up the road from our cabin. Here Ito informed us that he could hear a bird he had only seen once or twice before and one I hadn't even heard of: Costa Rican Pygmy Owl! With the help of call playback, the small owl flew out a tree and into one just above our heads. We had stunning views of the owl while it ignored a Violet Sabrewing trying to mob it. Another favourite of the trip for all of us, a beautiful and unexpected bird.

Further up the path, Ito once more informed us of a good bird calling. Only this time it was my absolute top target fot the trip- Zeledonia. Studying the Costa Rican bird book when we visited there in 2003 I became fascinated with the species and here was my opportunity to see one! We stood still and waited, eventually it popped out from the undergrowth and moved through no more than a foot or two from our feet. The almost Antpitta- like shape, dazzling orange crown and greeny colour were stunning. Without a doubt my top trip bird and favourite bird EVER!

We headed down the path againm picking up Prong Billed Barbet, Black faced Solitaire, Ruddy capped Nightingale Thrush, Barred Becard and Purple Throated Mountain Gem on the way.

Having eaten lunch Ito drove us to some lower elevation grassland and sparse forest. An albino Rufous Collared Sparrow was truly memorable and an Eastern Meadowlark joined it in a grassy field. We approached a more heavily forested area as it began to rain. Ito had told us of the possibility of Fiery Billed Aracari in this area and he didn't dissapoint. We had good views of it for a few minutes at the top of a tree before it departed, leaving us wholly satisfied!

The next day again was spent with Ito. We birded some farmland in the morning, which proved to be very productive. Highlights here included a lone Yellow Bellied Siskin, the bright Bay headed Tanager, Golden Olive Woodpecker, Eye ringed flatbill and a female White Ruffed Manikin. Tape luring was successful in tempting out a Slaty Spinetail from a patch of vegetation.

In the afternoon we moved on to Volcan Baru National Park, a site I had particularly wanted to visit. A single little Volcano Hummingbird was in a suitable area and a Mountain Thrush and Sooty Robin also put in an appearance. We began to walk down the famed Sendero Los Quetzales but didn't get far before Panama demonstrated why the "rainy season" is so called! We managed very good views of one more stunner- Orange bellied Trogon before turning back, thus concluding another great day.

Our fourth day in the highlands was more leisurely, mainly down to the heavy morning rain. While digiscoping hummers outside the cabin in an interlude in the rain I heard one of the most unmistakable noises I had ever heard. It sounded like a metal hammer being smashed against a gong or something- it could only be a Three Wattled Bellbird. Scanning the branches resulted in success and I locked onto the vivid white and brown bird just for a few seconds before it left it's perch.

The final day in the highlands loomed and I only had a morning to go birding before we left. A long while of searching was finally rewarded when a male and female Golden Browed Chlorophonia came into view in the trees outside the cabin. The male was simply dazzling, with his array of greens, blues and shining yellows!

This concluded the highlands and next we moved East to finish the holiday. Photos and the last instalment to follow...

[Max Levy]

A couple of photos from Los Quetzales.



1. A male Magnificent Hummingbird, taken outside the cabin. Probably my favourite photo I've ever taken, (it's my avatar.)

2. A female Magnificent Hummingbird also taken outside the cabin.

One thing I forgot to mention was that on our second night at Los Quetzales we met George Angehr, one of Panama's leading ornithologists and Chair of the Panama Records Committee.

[hummerman]

Great report,my trip amd memories came flooding back

[Max Levy]

Thanks for the comment hummerman.
After seeing the Golden browed Chlorophonias we drove to David to catch a short internal flight to Panama City. On arrival Michael, the bird guide of Burbayar Lodge lodge picked us up for our 4 night stay. Burbayar Lodge is located in Central Panama and is a lowland forest area.

We arrived at the lodge in the early evening and only had time to see Crowned Woodnymphs at sugar feeders, a Cinnamon Becard and a group of White vented Euphonia that roosted in a patch of trees near our every night.

The next morning birding began by walking one of the hotel trails, lead by Michael who proved to be a very skilled and knowledgable guide. The walk took us along a small stream in relatively dense forest. Early on we heard the shrill call of a Little Tinamou close by, but typically it would not show itself. Further along the river Michael spotted a Fasciated Tiger Heron which was seen well by all. The rest of the walk was productive and for one family especially. Tawny crested, Sulphur rumped, Rufous winged and my favourite, Emareld Tanagers all put in appearances. The last bird of the trail was a Long tailed Tyrant, another cool bird.

After lunch we drove to the Mirador of the Caribbean where we saw the Caribbean Sea for the first from Panamanian land. The view from atop a hill looking over the hundreds of islands in the San Blas was beautiful. While stopped we picked up Dusky faced Tanager in roadside trees. After ten or so minutes the hoped for Yellow eared Toucanet landed in a nearby tree allowing good views of a new Toucan. It was definitely another trip highlight.

On the drive back we saw a Laughing Falcon on top of a tree and two Crested Guans by the side of the road.

The next morning we walked a different trail. The first bird of interest was a cracking Olive backed Quail Dove that shyly wandered down the path ahead of us before flying up into in the trees. Further on we heard a Song Wren, which lived up to its name with what sounded like two separate songs at the same time! One of the coolest birds I've ever heard, it didn't matter that views of it were limited.

A while later a rattling call came from one side of the track. Michael excitedly told us it was a very sought after bird, the Broad billed Sapayoa! Michael lead us perhaps 15 metres off the path towards the call. After a long while of scanning the Sapayoa finally gave itself up, showing for a few minutes on a low perch near to two Tawny crested Tangers. While not the best looking bird we'd seen it certainly wins on rarity value!

Next up was a handsome male Black throated Mango perched for a few minutes above the path. Soon after a Tawny Capped Euphonia showed on the edge of the path. Very near to the end of the trail we found an ant swarm and sat and waited hoping for some antbirds. A single Bicoloured tentatively approached the swarm with us sat nearby.

The path soon met up with the road back to the lodge. The morning produced one more good bird, a male Golden Collared Manikin snapping his wings and producing a range of electric and other strange noises. He was only seen while flitting between the trees but the sound aline left a lasting imression!
In the afternoon we drove to the town of Margarita de Chepo with Michael to pick up food and other supplies. On the way there a single American Kestrel perched distantly but viewable from the road and later on a Red breasted Blackbird was seen feeding in a marshy field. The most notable sighting of the outing though was a pair of Pearl Kites in a dead tree by the road. Their combination of white, black and rufous colouring was very striking.

We were offered a night walk to look for birds and frogs which we thoroughly enjoyed with some cool frogs and one new bird, Common Parauqe.

Sadly the last full day of the trip had arrived. We took the Grandfather's trail in the morning which brought us two nice birds: Black capped Pygmy Tyrant and Spectacled Foliage Gleaner. With the Tyrant we had cracked the 300 species trip mark.
An afternoon walk produced little, with Band tailed Barbthroat, Olive Tanager and Tawny Faced Gnatwren the only new species.

The morning of the next day was the last opportunity for birding and I took a walk to search for Sunbittern with Michael. We were unsucsessful but ended up with a stunning Agami Heron on the river instead!

Later the same walk produced a last good bird, the uncommon Plumbeous Hawk perched overlooking the river. It was a nice grey colour with distinctive red eyes. Unfortunately after lunch it was time to drive back to Panama City for the flight home.

[Birdingcraft]

Wow, what a great trip! Buryabar sounds awesome! You saw some serious quality species there- Sulphur-rumped Tanager is a pretty uncommon, little known bird. Good for you.

[Max Levy]

Birdingcraft- It really was a great trip, enough to get me seriously hooked on the neotropics for life. I didn't know what to expect from Burbayar but it was absolutely brilliant with some stunning birds. I really can't wait to get back to Panama as soon as possible.

I'll post trip totals, some more photos etc tomorrow.

[Max Levy]

I didn't take any bird photos at Burbayar but heres a couple of other creatures.



1. A rather gruesome looking spider seen on the night walk.
2. A cool frog also seen on the night walk.

The final trip total was 311 species, taking my life list up to 931. I can't wait to pass the 1000 mark!

Highlights were:
Streak chested Antpitta, Blue Cotinga, Great Potoo, 7 Trogons, Blue footed Booby, Costa Rican Pygmy Owl, Zeledonia, Fiery billed Aracari, Three wattled Bellbird, Golden browed Chlorophonia, Fasciated Tiger Heron, Broad Billed Sapayoa Yellow Eared Toucanet, Agami Heron as well as the many Tangers, Manikins and Finches.

One final note is that George Angehr supplied us with his address to submit records after the trip. I gave details of the more interesting sightings recently. The most impresive of which was the two Blue footed Boobies we had seen on a small rock a few miles offshore from Isla Boca Brava. This sighting turned out to be the first for Chiriqui and so George is organising the incorporation of Chiriqui into the range map for the species!

[AlanR]

Originally Posted by Max Levy

A couple of photos from Los Quetzales.

Attachment 186484 Attachment 186485

1. A male Magnificent Hummingbird, taken outside the cabin. Probably my favourite photo I've ever taken, (it's my avatar.)

2. A female Magnificent Hummingbird also taken outside the cabin.

One thing I forgot to mention was that on our second night at Los Quetzales we met George Angehr, one of Panama's leading ornithologists and Chair of the Panama Records Committee.

I went throuh the Panama Canal a couple of years ago and saw a few birds but nothing to compare to your list.
That second shot is a stunner. You should put that in the Gallery.
Alan

[Dave B Smith]

Max,
Great report and photos.Thanks for posting it.

[Max Levy]

Alan- Thanks for your comments, I will definitely upload the second Magnificent Hummingbird and maybe more to the gallery.

Dave- Thanks also for your comment, I'm glad I posted the report.

[Solwara]

The Sapayoa is a miracle of biogeography if ever there was one -- the only Old-world suboscine in the neotropics -- and I'm envious.

[Max Levy]

Originally Posted by Solwara

The Sapayoa is a miracle of biogeography if ever there was one -- the only Old-world suboscine in the neotropics -- and I'm envious.

I agree its a cool bird, but I don't quite know enough about avian taxonomy to know what you mean.

[Solwara]

Suboscine (or Tyranni) is a world-wide suborder of passerine birds. It can be further broken into the Old-world suboscines, (including broadbills, pittas, and asities), and the New-world suboscines, including antbirds, ovenbirds, cotingas, manakins, tyrant-flycatchers, etc.

The Broad-billed Sapoya is grouped with the Old-world suboscines, generally put into the old-world broadbill family Eurylaimidae. Yet its a neotropical bird... What is it doing in Panama? How did it get there? How did it evolve?

Isn't that neat?

[Max Levy]

Originally Posted by Solwara

Suboscine (or Tyranni) is a world-wide suborder of passerine birds. It can be further broken into the Old-world suboscines, (including broadbills, pittas, and asities), and the New-world suboscines, including antbirds, ovenbirds, cotingas, manakins, tyrant-flycatchers, etc.

The Broad-billed Sapoya is grouped with the Old-world suboscines, generally put into the old-world broadbill family Eurylaimidae. Yet its a neotropical bird... What is it doing in Panama? How did it get there? How did it evolve?

Isn't that neat?

I understand your point now, that is truly amazing! I wonder if the Old-world has any New-world suboscine representatives?
Thanks Solwara for posting that, I wouldn't have known otherwise.

[Motmot]

More Sapayoa info here:

http://creagrus.home.montereybay.com/sapayoa.html

[AlanR]

Originally Posted by Solwara

Suboscine (or Tyranni) is a world-wide suborder of passerine birds. It can be further broken into the Old-world suboscines, (including broadbills, pittas, and asities), and the New-world suboscines, including antbirds, ovenbirds, cotingas, manakins, tyrant-flycatchers, etc.

The Broad-billed Sapoya is grouped with the Old-world suboscines, generally put into the old-world broadbill family Eurylaimidae. Yet its a neotropical bird... What is it doing in Panama? How did it get there? How did it evolve?

Isn't that neat?

That's a super explanation. I've never heard of any birds in your lists!
Alan

[trey]

Cool! I loved Canopy Tower. I was definantly lucky when I went there because I saw a Harpy Eagle on Pipeline Road. Best birding experience so far!!

[Birdingcraft]

Originally Posted by trey

Cool! I loved Canopy Tower. I was definantly lucky when I went there because I saw a Harpy Eagle on Pipeline Road. Best birding experience so far!!

Wow! You were pretty lucky alright! Good for you.

[Max Levy]

Trey- the Canopy Tower was truly amazing! Well done on Harpy Eagle, I hoped to see one but they're just so rare.

[Birdingcraft]

Originally Posted by Max Levy

Trey- the Canopy Tower was truly amazing! Well done on Harpy Eagle, I hoped to see one but they're just so rare.

Yes, they are very difficult away from a nest to see even where they are at normal population densities. In addition to having large territories, I think they are hardly ever seen because of they probably hunt like a cat; by stealth and surprise, moving quietly through the canopy or waiting on a hidden perch while searching for prey- and they rarely ever soar (unlike Hawk Eagles). When I worked in Tambopata, Peru for most of a year (a site with a healthy population) I saw Harpy exactly 3 times. Other guides also saw Harpy but with the same frequency - a fleeting glimpse in the forest or from the canopy tower. The Guyanas might be the most reliable place for Harpy away from a nest site.

[Max Levy]

Originally Posted by Birdingcraft

Yes, they are very difficult away from a nest to see even where they are at normal population densities. In addition to having large territories, I think they are hardly ever seen because of they probably hunt like a cat; by stealth and surprise, moving quietly through the canopy or waiting on a hidden perch while searching for prey- and they rarely ever soar (unlike Hawk Eagles). When I worked in Tambopata, Peru for most of a year (a site with a healthy population) I saw Harpy exactly 3 times. Other guides also saw Harpy but with the same frequency - a fleeting glimpse in the forest or from the canopy tower. The Guyanas might be the most reliable place for Harpy away from a nest site.

Thanks for that interesting info Birdingcraft.