[wolfbirder]

There are many extensive reports from this famous reserve, but this may help people who like me, have relatively little time to discover this wonderful but immense birding mecca. Sorry I have no photos to attach, so look away now if you want! I have only just about mastered binoculars, never mind camera attachments to my scope!

We flew with Monarch from Manchester to Faro in Portugal, and hired a car from Hertz (beware hidden child-seat hire costs, almost half as much as the 9 day car hire!). Don't think SIXT charge such extortionate fees for these 'extras' (unless they have changed their policy too). The Citreon C4 was excellent I have to say.

We were based at 'Playa de Moral' at Costa De La Luz, a quiet small resort about 50 miles away, across the border into Spain. We overlooked the marshes / 'Marismas De Isla Cristina' (Guadiana Estuary), as I had asked in advance for a room overlooking the marshes, at Hotel 'Iberostar Isla Canela'. The hotel was booked on line, costing 895 Euros half-board for 9 nights in total for my family of 4. Flights were additional of course! Room 1326 was superb (there are only about 200 rooms so do not know why it is numbered this high??), with a wonderful balcony to set up my scope. It was also just a twenty minute drive to Castro Marim, just back across the Portuguese border. More later.

I had booked a day trip with Discoverdonana.com, and I met the excellent guide Jose A Sanchez (who provides regular Donana updates in the Spain section of this website). As arranged, I arrived at the petrol station on the northern edge of El Rocio at 7.30a.m. on 25th May, noting several Black Kites drifting over the cork woods even at that time. Jose duly arrived, and I discovered I had his services all to my self! Good for me, probably not so good for any guide! He asked me my target species for the day, which I duly reeled off over ten minutes, and off we set. The weather today was about 22C and sunny, but the 'relatively' low temperature meant excellent birding would be enjoyed with comparatively little heat haze affecting views. The dirt tracks were easily dry enough to use, perhaps even in my hire car, but then again I would have no idea which way to go even using my excellent guide book by the late Jon Butler (excellent book if you know 'how' to get to the hot spots and have more time to explore).

First port of call was ALMONTE, and we turned west off the main El Rocio road at Almonte, and after a short distance took a turning marked 'Baleric Pallets" (or something similar??). This road led to the aforementioned 'garden-centre' type place or factory, and we took the perfectly driveable track immediately to its right. We drove through wonderful agricultural land, turned left through some pines, and ended up back on the other side of the factory. The circular drive was only a mile or two long, but we stopped to enjoy my first target bird - Rufous Tailed Scrub Robin (also known as Rufous Bush Chat or Robin). Jose could hear one, but we only saw it briefly in flight, as well as 3 Golden Orioles, 3 Bee-eaters, Corn Buntings, Crested Larks, Woodchat Shrikes, and House Sparrows which were ubiquitous everywhere! And I mean everywhere! A short distance on, a second Rufous-Tailed Scrub Robin provided better views perched on a bush, though with its back to us. It did turn its head and views were better than average. Pleased with this, and wary of the lengthy list of birds I had provided to Jose, we moved on.

It took about forty minutes to get to VILLAMANRIQUE, with more Black Kites seen en route, and Jose knew exactly how many traffic islands to circumnavigate before we entered the infamous but signposted "CORRIDOR VERDE". One of my main target birds (if not the main one) was Black-Shouldered Kite. A drive along the first part of Corridor Verde unearthed calling Wryneck (did not see it), Turtle Dove, and then 4 Black-Shouldered Kites perched in a dead tree. 3 were immature/juveniles with rusty-streaked underparts, but the 4th bird was a superb adult with those 'striking' ruby-red eyes and black eye-brows . Views at about 200 metres were pretty good, and the adult made short sorties a couple of times. I believe a 2nd adult was seen perched as we drove on. Jose stopped briefly as a Ladder Snake crossed the road.

We then deviated to the right and onto a road on the other side of the Corridor Verde. Jose soon stopped, taking a miner track just one hundred metres off the road, and we stopped at a dip in the track where there was a small stream and plenty of shrubbery. A Cetti's Warbler immediately sang out in the open, and over the next ten minutes we had seen a Melodious Warbler well, 2 Reed Warblers and a 'flitting' Western Olivaceous Warbler. A very productive little stop! A superb male Spanish Sparrow was seen nearby (the only one seen). There were plenty of White Storks, Spotless Starlings and Swallows, as well as a Gull-Billed Tern as we drove on towards the extensive paddy fields at ISLA MAYOR.

We drove out of ISLA MAYOR, out onto an incredibly complex web of dirt tracks across the rice fields. Another Gull-Billed Tern was seen, as well as around 4 Whiskered Terns. Blue-Headed Wagtails seemed to inhabit every causeway. Eventually we arrived at a spot overlooking a Spanish Imperial Eagle nest (an obvious target of mine!). 2 large brown juveniles were perched up and a superb adult was circling close to the nest . After ten minutes of watching this superb raptor it was off again. The paddy fields produced a number of resting gulls, mainly Yellow-Legged and Lesser Black-Backed, but also some Black-Headed and pleasingly about 10 Slender-Billed Gulls, that we stopped to look at briefly.

We progressed on, adjacent to the GUADIMAR CANAL. With tall electric pylons lining the canal, I knew this could be the spot where another target bird of mine might be seen. And indeed 2 immature Short-Toed Eagles with blotchy rufous hoods were perched up on pylons. They allowed close approach, only lazily taking to flight at about 30 metres. Several Ravens and Kestrels were also seen, as well as a single Common Buzzard and the only Red Kite of the day trip. Black Kites were everywhere in groups - we must have seen over 100 during the day. Many Crested Larks and Corn Buntings were passed without pausing, and two Calandra Larks were seen in flight only.

As we approached the 'hard-to-find' JAV CENTRE (JA VALVERDE CENTRE), we stopped to look at more than 300 Greater Flamingo's on pools. Beautiful birds! We stopped at the centre itself for a snack and a drink. Ringing was taking place, creating a cacophony of flight and sound amongst the huge Glossy Ibis colony. Little and Cattle Egrets, a few Night Herons and 3 Squacco Herons were glimpsed, as well two 'showy' Purple Herons. A few 'calling' Great Reed Warblers were 'easy' despite the activity. A hundred metres or so past the centre we stopped by a little bridge with excellent views of scrapes and reedbeds. A Purple Gallinule was seen at distance, as well as a few Coot, Mallard, Gadwall, Little Grebe & Great Crested Grebe, and pleasingly Jose put me onto a couple of 'reed-straddling' Savi's Warblers. He belatedly wondered whether they may have been Reed Warblers, but these were not Reed Warblers, they had shorter, thicker-based bills and were devoid of that 'flashing' white throat. Shame they did not sing whilst perched up! But I had seen a thousand Reed Warblers before and knew these birds looked different. House Martins, Swallows and Sand Martins flew around our heads.

We soon accessed a part of the reserve that was 'out-of-bounds' to the public, via padlocked gates. We drove across a flat, barren, semi-desert type landscape noting another immature Short-Toed Eagle, several Griffon Vultures, Booted Eagle, and of course more Black Kites. Jose picked out a juvenile Lesser Short-Toed Lark on the dirt track ahead, its more upright posture and streaky chest made i/d easy even for me. A 2nd probable bird was seen perched on a fence, with its back to us. It sounded like Lesser ST Lark but had a long bill more fitting to Short-Toed Lark. 2 Short-Toed Larks were also seen along this stretch, and after checking road side barbed-wire fences for twenty minutes and seeing about 20-30 Zitting Cisticola's /Fan-Tailed Warblers, Jose eventually found me a Spectacled Warbler, an adult female. Views were very good and I thought it was so different in posture and jizz to the photogenetically similar Whitethroat. It was joined by a 2nd bird, but just at that point we were disturbed by a very rare passing vehicle! And the birds were gone! Bugger!

We failed to locate any Great Spotted Cuckoo's (the only dip!). Give me my money back I demanded!!

We exited the 'controlled' area, and in woodland close to El Rocio we noted a perched Booted Eagle, and Azure-Winged Magpies which were infact relatively easy. We were back at the petrol station at 1pm, with over 100 kms having been covered by Jose. The agreed day trip price was 200 Euros for a single person, but as we had covered everything I wanted in half a day he only charged me half, which was a nice bonus and more holiday spending money for me. I tipped appropriately of course, for I was well pleased with what I had seen. I would highly recommend his use if you do not have the time, knowledge or birding acumen to find these species by yourself! His expertise is second to none! In hindsight, I should have asked about Sandgrouse too, but these were not 'initially' high on my wanted list! Having seen my main targets though, they are now of course!

I briefly checked out the famous view of EL ROCIO from the bridge across the marsh, but as the infamous annual festival was due to start in two days, traffic was even worse than normal. Cowboys with wagons and horses were everywhere! I was just waiting for Clint Eastwood to say "Do you feel lucky punk, well do ya?" (Ok I know that wasn't from one of his spaghetti westerns!). But I did feel lucky - I had seen Black Shouldered Kite, Spanish Imperial Eagle, Short-Toed Eagle, Azure-Winged Magpie, Spectacled and Savi's Warbler, Lesser Short Toed Lark, Rufous-Tailed Scrub Robin, Western Olivaceous Warbler, Spotless Starling - all lifers for me!

On the way back to my hotel, I checked out 'nearby' NIEBLA CASTLE, just off the little used IP1 dual carriageway. Mid-afternoon is never the best time of day to visit from a birding point of view, but in many ways I was happy with this, the town was sleeping as I checked out the ramparts and tower for Lesser Kestrels, so I got none of those "mad, eccentric, Englishman" looks from locals or other tourists, as I strutted around in my baseball cap, short-sleeved shirt, hiking boots, and shorts (revealing white hairy legs - ok too much information!). I saw a few Lesser Kestrels in flight, with obvious white underwings, but do Common Kestrels nest just below the White Storks in the tower? I was led to believe they were all 'Lessers' here? Any help would be appreciated. A bird (adult male) I saw entering a 'hole in the wall' (but not a cashpoint) just below the White Storks seemed to have very reduced upperpart spotting?? Wish I had checked it out more thoroughly now! A few Pallid Swifts were amongst screeching Commons, and I swear I could here a Nightjar churring from a hot, corrogated roof top!

I returned to COTO DONANA on 28th May 2009, by myself, to look at the pinewoods on the western edge, taking a recommended dirt track called "VERADA DEL CAMINO DEL LORO", at 35.7km off the A494 San Juan del Puerto to Matalascanas coast road. This track was easily driveable. I purposelly arrived late afternoon on a glorious sunny day. This area is called EL ABALARIO / RIBETEHILOS, and this tour is recommended in the excellent book "Where to Watch Birds in Donana" by Francisco Chiclana Moreno and Jorge Garzon Gutierrez" (Lynx Publications), under 'Itinery number two' (of some 23 recommended routes). If only I could have such a cool name as Francisco Chiclana Moreno, reckon it would be far better than Nick Moss !! Anyway, I followed this track for about 7kms as recommended, past a radar tower and observation post, past the crossroads and then to the signposted "RIBETEHILOS" car park. En route I had good views of 2 Thekla Larks, Crested Larks, Dartford Warblers, Tree Pipit, 2 Southern Grey Shrikes, Kestrels and Buzzard (but dissappointingly no other raptors). Upto 30 Bee-eaters offered great views on overhead wires, and a few Serins, Spotted Flycatchers and Azure-Winged Magpies were seen well. A superb boardwalk of about half a mile takes you on a circular route, but unfortunately you do feel the sound of the wooden boards warns off any difficult-to-see bird just as you raise your binoculars. I undertook the circular walk twice over two hours, walking slowly, hoping to see many goodies. I notched up 3 Short-Toed Treecreepers, Azure-Winged Magpies, Cuckoo, 3 Western Olivaceous Warblers, 2 Fan-Tailed Warblers, Nightingale, Sardinian Warbler, Corn Buntings, Spotted Starlings, Stonechats, Blackbirds, but no Great Spotted Cuckoo's or Subalpine Warbler's that I had hoped for here. The place was tranquil and beautiful, and as the sun began to set and the mossies came out I returned to my car, and drove 'back' towards the A494 main road (the taken track apparently deteriorates further on 'after' Ribetehilos and is often unsuitable for ordinary cars!), hoping to find a good spot for Nightjars. At the sandy crossroads by the pre-mentioned observation tower, I turned right towards LOS BODEGONES (it is signposted). After about two miles, I came to a T-junction where there was just room to park up. I thought it looked like superb Nightjar territory. A couple of Stone Curlews flew past, and Nightingales and Azure-Winged Magpies flitted around before roosting. Half an hour after dusk, that distinctive and repetitive Red-Necked Nightjar call struck up, and within five minutes a superb bird soared and circled above the tallest tree, it was nearly the size of a Kestrel! A second bird called at considerable height, and as I drove back feeling well happy, 2 Eurasian Nightjars were flushed from the road in the headlights, calling distinctively.

This trip had provided me with a different feel about Coto Donana altogether, and I really enjoy the more-relaxed, "discovering" element of doing your own thing!

Briefly, what else did I do?

From the IP1 dual carriageway at various times I had seen a couple of Montagu's Harriers and Marsh Harriers, Booted Eagles, Azure-Winged Magpies, Tawny Owl, and 3 Little Owls.

CASTRO MARIM, just across the Portuguese border off the IP1 was visited twice briefly, and it produced plenty of Avocets, Little Terns, Kentish Plovers, several Redshanks and Black-Winged Stilts, as well as Greenshank, Black-Tailed Godwit, Knot, Dunlin, Turnstone, and Baird's Sandpiper (whoops I meant Little Stint!)! Also, 2 Marsh Harriers, Little & Cattle Egrets, 2 Southern Grey Shrikes, Stonechats, Corn Buntings, Crested Larks, Fan-Tailed Warblers, Swallows and House Martins, and a pair of Little Owls with a fledged youngster on the reserve building! Also a pair of flitting warblers that may have been Spectacled but were probably Sardinian Warblers. I did not explore the extensive areas on the southern side of the IP1 dual carriageway, due to time constraints.

Finally, it is always worth mentioning what you see at or from your hotel. My balcony overlooked the extensive MARISMAS DE ISLA CRISTINA. My eyes are always on the look out for tasty birds! And I became highly aroused by a few sightings of Montagu's Harriers, and don't get any funny ideas when I say they were all beautiful males! A few Marsh Harriers were also seen from the balcony, and Little Terns were often hovering and fishing, and a few Little Egrets and Redshanks were always around. Yellow-Legged Gulls were often all there was to see however, although if you looked skyward you could often pick out a few Pallid Swifts amongst the Common's. But talk about eye-strain after a while! One evening, 3 Collared Pratincoles flew by seperately, and a female Eurasian Nightjar emerged form the cover in front of the hotel. A few Sardinian Warblers & Crested Larks were noted at times, and Sandwich Terns and Gannets were seen off the adjacent beach. Perhaps the highlight for me, were the pair of Red-Rumped Swallows (at least one pair) that offered daily 'crippling' views immediately by the hotel entrance, they often perched in one of the two palm trees at the hotel entrance steps! These were the only Red-Rumped Swallows I saw on the holiday.

Well that's it - 110 species, including 13 lifers. I did not fall in love with Coto Donana, but it just has to be done to see quality European birds at some stage in your life! Hope this may advise someone in a helpful way, of what can be achieved, or perhaps more appropriately what could not be achieved without the help of a guide at Donana.

[john-henry]

Great report I enjoyed it very much, brought back many memories.

Thanks for posting it.

PS. As far as I know and have seen all the breeding Kestrels at Niebla are Lessers.

[John Cantelo]

A great report, but I am a little envious, not so much of the writer, but rather of Jose since I'd have loved showing 'Wolfbirder" those birds on the other side of the Gualdaquivir! Now that I've caught up with most (but not all) of what's on offer in the area, it would have been a delight to enjoy the second-hand buzz of someone else's ticks! I mustn't be greedy though as that's just what I enjoyed in April. I hope 'Wolfie' will find time to visit the Cadiz/Tarifa area so he can appreciate just how much better it is!

As for Niebla's kestrels, as I recall on my single trip there I only saw Lessers; the Lessers around our house are usually fairly intolerant of any passing Commons. Of course, if you want good views of Lessers then come and visit Alcala in early spring - the two car loads of Spanish birders who turned up outside my house the year before last assured me it's the best place in Spain to see them. I'm not about to argue!

[wolfbirder]

Many thanks John's!! Kind words, its all about sharing your joys and frustrations.

John C, I will consider that next time I get to Spain for a short weekend trip. Your info has always been very informative.

Although I have birded since 1998, I certainly do not consider myself a very good birder (that doesn't bother me one jot). I marvel at the acute identification skills of so many. In the mid-day heat I was calling perched Crested Larks as Corn Buntings and vice versa! I even called a flying Woodchat Shrike as a Pied Fly !! Scary. But I just love the buzz, and my adrenalin is so high, as I plan these day trips so far in advance, and I barely sleep the night before! And birding is meant to be a relaxing hobby eh!!

Thanks for the Niebla info both of you, the male I saw had very reduced upper part spotting, but Lessers are meant to have none. I definitely saw other Lessers but the best non-flight view was of this male entering a hole in the wall with its back to me.

Oh , I also saw a female House Sparrow with a golden-yellow crown at Punta de Moral, perhaps it had been rubbing its head in pollen. Very odd !!

[Bubbs]

No need for photo's when a report is as good as this one is

John.

[wolfbirder]

Why thank you. Or is there just a conspiracy of "nice Johns?"

My middle name is John too!!

Seriously, i do enjoy writing up my reports as much as i enjoy reading other people's, and its nice that someone finds them enjoyable or useful. Cheers again!

[John Cantelo]

Originally Posted by wolfbirder

Why thank you. Or is there just a conspiracy of "nice Johns?"

I can try being nasty if you prefer!

[wolfbirder]

Originally Posted by John Cantelo

I can try being nasty if you prefer!

Nah the nice John is ok with me !

Anyway, there' s no room for nastiness in Ornithology........just ask the people at a typical UK twitch, when there is little or limited space to see a bird from.

[Andrew]

I was in Donana a few weeks before you and did not do half as well as you did with Jose. I second what you say, it is best to hire a guide if this is your first visit to Donana.

Nice report!

[wolfbirder]

Originally Posted by Andrew

I was in Donana a few weeks before you and did not do half as well as you did with Jose. I second what you say, it is best to hire a guide if this is your first visit to Donana.

Nice report!

Many thanks Andrew (why isnt your name John!!). Sorry to hear that, but can imagine it being a frustrating place to bird at times.

[Andrew]

My midle name IS John!

[wolfbirder]

My mate is gong for two days next week. Lands at Faro, hopes to pop up to Castro Verde / Mertola for the Bustards then to Coto Donana region.

Anyone know of a reliable Bonelli's Eagle site in either of these areas. Personally I think he will need to go further east towards Ronda?

[Stephen C]

Hi

I'm a member of a minority group of 'non-Johns' who just wanted to say a thoroughly great read. It's true that I aspire to be a John one day but please don't think that this has in any way influenced my comments.

All the best

erm... stephen

[JimMorris]

Hi there Nick.
That was one excellent trip report mate. you have seen more birds in a day there than I have in the 3 visits I've made there but like you say the best bet is to go with a guide. Jose sound sounds like a great guide.

My visits have always been in a camper van so I've been a bit restricted as to where I can go but the Donana is still a marvelous place for birding. Extremadura and Monfrague will always be my favourite. I've not long been back from a 6 week trip there. Anywhere in Spain has the edge on Staffordshire for birding.

Thanks again for a very enjoyable report

[wolfbirder]

Thank you very much Steve and Jim, for your very kind comments. Probably my best report to date in reality. I read the other ones I have submitted when I have run out of Nytol !

Stephen, I am sure when you come back in the after life you will be named John. I've never found having John in my name particularly beneficial, but that's probably more to do with the fact I am a bald ugly git.

Ive never done Extremedura and Monfrague Jim, i know they are just wonderful areas i must get to one day!

I have to say it surprised me how relatively easily my birding targets were achieved at Donana......infact at 1pm when we had finished, having seeing so many great birds, i was a little overwhelmed by the ongoing excitement. It was a bit like winning the FA Cup 5 times in a year (not that I know about that feeling even once!).

All credit to my guide tho and none to me. All i had to do was point my binoculars, or more closer to the truth simply look through Jose's scope.