[ovenbird43]

What a terrific way to spend part of the summer! I traveled to Costa Rica for a 4-week Spanish immersion course in Monteverde, but when I wasn't learning Spanish I was out birding- around Monteverde, plus several weekend trips and a trip to La Selva Biological Station after the course. It was a fantastic experience, and not just because of the birds- it was a wonderful cultural experience because I stayed with a host family in Monteverde, and it was a great way to learn a lot of Spanish in a short time. I arrived in Costa Rica knowing virtually no Spanish, and left being able to have conversations with local people, and to travel on my own around the country without relying on English.

And the birds? Overall, 304 species seen and/or heard, roughly half of which were life birds. As is always the case, there were species I can't believe I didn't see- Rufous-browed Peppershrike, Slaty Flowerpiercer, Checker-throated Antwren- as well as species I can't believe I DID see- White Hawk, Snowy Cotinga, Barred Becard, Silvery-fronted Tapaculo. It was wonderful being in one place for a month, affording me the chance to learn the birds of the area fairly well, to learn the vocalizations and habits of the common species. At the same time, even during my last few days of birding in Monteverde there was still that tantalizing feeling of knowing there were still birds out there that I hadn't yet seen, that each and every time I went out there was the possibility of something new.

In this thread, I'll post some stories of my birding outings around Monteverde and farther afield, and wrap up with a total species list from the trip.

[Black Wheatear]

Now I am jealous! I love going to Costa Rica each year (February) and to be able to spend so long as you in that wonderful country is a dream.

Look forward to reading more.

Peter

[Neil]

After my wonderful experience with Peru and Ecuador I'm planning to go back to Mexico and Costa Rica next year. I look forward to your reports. Neil.

[ovenbird43]

I arrived in San Jose the night of July 1 and checked into my hotel. I had arranged for a shuttle to pick me up there early the next morning to take me to Monteverde. So the next morning, I rode with 4 others to Monteverde, about a 4 hour ride (including the 20 minute break in the middle). I was arriving into town early, my Spanish class didn't start until 6 July and thus I couldn't go to my host family's house until 5 July, but I knew I need to get some birding out of my system before trying to focus on studying . So for my first 3 nights in Monteverde I stayed at Hotel Villa Verde, near the entrance to the preserve.

After checking into my hotel, I pretty much just threw my stuff on the bed, grabbed my binoculars and stepped outside. One of the first things I heard was a Three-wattled Bellbird in the distance- wow! Later in the trip I was to eventually see a few, but for now just hearing it caused exclamations of excitement. From the walkway leading to my room I saw a pair of Yellow-bellied Elaenias and a Slate-throated Redstart.

I ate a hurried lunch at the hotel restaurant and took off, walking toward the preserve entrance. The dirt road wound mostly through forest, with many birds along the way. I saw my first Spotted Woodcreeper, a Black Guan, a family of Blue-crowned Motmots (several were initially sitting right in the middle of the road), and Common Bush-Tanagers. Near the preserve entrance I saw a group of Golden-browed Chlorophonias foraging up in some cecropias.

Just before the preserve entrance there is the "Hummingbird Gallery", which is a cafe/gift shop that has several hummingbird feeders set up. The feeders were bustling with hummingbirds that allowed close approach, which proved to be a fantastic way to study the species, permitting later identifications further afield of less cooperative subjects. There were Green-crowned Brilliants, tiny Coppery-headed Emeralds, Stripe-tailed Hummingbirds, and stunning Purple-throated Mountain Gems. Green Violetears buzzed around flaring their violet ears at everyone, and huge Violet Sabrewings chased off the smaller species with their mere presence. Occasionally a Green Hermit would sneak in and timidly approach a feeder, and would soon dart off back into the forest.

When I finally entered the forest preserve itself, I only had about 2 hours before it closed in which to explore. I was delighted to see Gray-breasted Wood-Wrens up close. A mixed flock contained more Common Bush-Tanagers, Silver-throated Tanagers, Three-striped Warblers, and a handsome Spotted Barbtail. On my way out, back by the hummingbird feeders, I heard a loud, scratchy, scolding note issue again and again from low in a tree. In the dimming light I managed to track it down and got close looks at a Streak-breasted Treehunter. I headed back to my hotel, excited and looking forward to returning the next day.

[ovenbird43]

Originally Posted by Black Wheatear

Now I am jealous! I love going to Costa Rica each year (February) and to be able to spend so long as you in that wonderful country is a dream.

Look forward to reading more.

Peter

What parts do you usually visit?

[ovenbird43]

3 Jul 09

I planned to spend the majority of the daylight hours birding the Monteverde cloud forest preserve. On the walk to the entrance I saw many of the same birds as the day before, plus a few others including Spangle-cheeked Tanager. After watching the hummingbird feeders and noting the same 7 species, I entered the preserve. Before long I encountered a good-sized mixed flock that included Olivaceous Woodcreeper, Golden-crowned Warbler, Silver-throated Tanager, Mountain Elaenia, Black-faced Solitaire, Spotted Woodcreeper, plus a few other species.

Continuing along the trail, I soon encountered 2 birders and a guide looking through a spotting scope. One of them beckoned me to look, and sitting there on a branch in the subcanopy, all in dazzlingly iridescent bluish-green and stunning red, was a male Resplendent Quetzal. Wow! I felt very lucky and grateful to these birders for sharing their find. We watched as it made quick sallies for fruit in the canopy. Most of its tail streamers had been worn down to the level of the rest of its tail, but the rest of its plumage looked immaculate.

Farther down the trail, I stopped where I had a clear view of a gorge, and just stood there and watched for about a half hour. I watched a family group of Black-faced Solitaires feeding on bright red berries. I spotted a Yellowish Flycatcher in the understory, and saw many Common Bush-Tanagers in the canopy. Eventually a little grayish bird in the undergrowth caught my eye- a female Silvery-fronted Tapaculo, my first ever for that family. I watched it for a moment until it disappeared farther into the thick brush. Feeling pleased, I moved on.

Along the trail to the waterfall, I saw my first Slaty-backed Nightingale-Thrush hopping along the trail. An adult Black Guan crossed the trail farther ahead, trailed by 2 adorable chicks. I heard a voice familiar to me from Ecuador- a singing Scaly-breasted Wren. As I hiked into higher elevations, the Slate-throated Redstarts were largely replaced by Collared Redstarts, and I saw my first Ruddy Treerunner. In fact, one mixed flock was just full of furnariids- the treerunner, plus Spotted Barbtail, Lineated Foliage-Gleaner, and Streak-breasted Treehunter. As I neared the continental divide, I came across another flock composed mostly of Yellow-thighed Finches and the ubiquitous bush-tanagers.

At this point, maybe 2 or 3 in the afternoon, the storm that had been threatening for the past hour or so arrived. I had my rainjacket but no umbrella, so I sought additional shelter beside a large forest tree. It was quite a dry spot, but the lightening was striking very close by and I was on a ridge, so in fright I abandoned this shelter and ran for the entrance (rather ungracefully and painfully, since at the time the cut in my achilles tendon was nowhere near healed enough for running). In the process I got pretty well soaked. I attempted to dry my tennis shoes that night by stuffing them with the ends of one of my towels- it worked ok.

[ovenbird43]

A few pictures from the first couple days... Resplendent Quetzal (photographed through the scope), Violet Sabrewing at one of the feeders, a male Golden-browed Chlorophonia, and a view of the cloud forest.

[Dave B Smith]

What a fantastic place to spend a month in! Monteverde was actually our first birding experience - a half day with a local guide - Gary Diller - and it got us hooked. Looking forward to more of your report.

[Steve G]

Lucky guy!
What a place to spend five weeks in!!!

[Birdingcraft]

Originally Posted by ovenbird43

What a terrific way to spend part of the summer! I traveled to Costa Rica for a 4-week Spanish immersion course in Monteverde, but when I wasn't learning Spanish I was out birding- around Monteverde, plus several weekend trips and a trip to La Selva Biological Station after the course. It was a fantastic experience, and not just because of the birds- it was a wonderful cultural experience because I stayed with a host family in Monteverde, and it was a great way to learn a lot of Spanish in a short time. I arrived in Costa Rica knowing virtually no Spanish, and left being able to have conversations with local people, and to travel on my own around the country without relying on English.

And the birds? Overall, 304 species seen and/or heard, roughly half of which were life birds. As is always the case, there were species I can't believe I didn't see- Rufous-browed Peppershrike, Slaty Flowerpiercer, Checker-throated Antwren- as well as species I can't believe I DID see- White Hawk, Snowy Cotinga, Barred Becard, Silvery-fronted Tapaculo. It was wonderful being in one place for a month, affording me the chance to learn the birds of the area fairly well, to learn the vocalizations and habits of the common species. At the same time, even during my last few days of birding in Monteverde there was still that tantalizing feeling of knowing there were still birds out there that I hadn't yet seen, that each and every time I went out there was the possibility of something new.

In this thread, I'll post some stories of my birding outings around Monteverde and farther afield, and wrap up with a total species list from the trip.

Sounds like you had a wonderful trip and I can relate to those tantalizing feelings and excitement of birding in CR. How lucky to spend a month in Monteverde! I was so impressed with neotropical birding in Costa Rica on my first trip in 1992, that after several extended visits, I ended up moving here a couple years ago. Although family duties keep me from birding as much as I would like, at least guiding work gets me out into the field now and then.
Looking forward to your stories!
There are always some birds missed- the Peppershrike is rather uncommon, the Checker-throated Antwren is more difficult than it used to be, especially at La Selva where it has become rare like many understory insectivores, and I guess you just had bad luck with Slaty Flowerpiercer although it is much easier on Cerro de la Muerte.

[ovenbird43]

Originally Posted by Steve G

Lucky guy!
What a place to spend five weeks in!!!

Lucky girl, you mean

4 July 09

My second full day in Monteverde, I decided to explore some other areas. I was in a hotel far from the main community, and ended up walking around for several hours in the morning in search of something open for breakfast and coffee. In the process I saw many birds, including White-eared Ground-Sparrow at my hotel grounds, Plain and Rufous-and-white Wrens, Gray-crowned Yellowthroat, and a most unexpected Chestnut-headed Oropendola.

In the afternoon, I visited the Bajo del Tigre area of the Children's Eternal Rainforest. This reserve offered a different compliment of species, since it was below the cloud forest level. It was a very windy afternoon, making birding difficult. There were several Three-wattled Bellbirds "bonking" right along the trail, but with the treetops whipping around I never managed more than a glimpse of a shape in flight. Fortunately, the trail that winds back and forth down a steep ravine took me mostly out of the wind, and I had more luck finding birds down there. I located a displaying pair of male Long-tailed Manakins, singing their "to-le-do" duet, and managed a short but decent look at one of them. I encountered a mixed-species flock composed of Golden-crowned Warblers, Lesser Greenlet, Ochre-bellied Flycatcher, and Red-crowned Ant-Tanager. On my way back out of the preserve, along the entrance road, I had stopped and was looking up into the trees when a male Three-wattled Bellbird landed on a bare branch right in the open. Wow, how lucky!

[ovenbird43]

Originally Posted by Birdingcraft

Checker-throated Antwren is more difficult than it used to be, especially at La Selva where it has become rare like many understory insectivores

Indeed, I visited La Selva and had previously thought the antwren would be a gimme, based on some older literature I had read. I was saddened to learn and see firsthand how rare some of the understory insectivores have become. But I still had a great experience there, as I will describe at a later time.

[borealowl47]

Great read and photos Ovenbird,hope to get there one day!

[ovenbird43]

5 Jul 09

This was the day before the start of my Spanish classes, and the day I was to move to my host family's house. I got up early for some last bit of birding at the preserve before meeting my family. Since I only had a couple hours, I didn't enter the preserve itself, but instead birded the road that leads to the entrance, as well as the area around the hummingbird feeders. Some of the highlights were 2 Emerald Toucanets, a Prong-billed Barbet, Golden-bellied Flycatcher, and an Ochraceous Wren. Near the preserve entrance, I found the nest of a Purple-throated Mountain-Gem about 7 m up in a cecropia. I don't know how I managed to find that, I just happened to be looking in the right spot when the female arrived to continue construction on it, sitting in the nest and shaping it with her bill. On the way back down the road toward my hotel, a male Resplendent Quetzal flew right across the road in front of me- wow!

[ovenbird43]

A few more pictures... Green-crowned Brilliants and a Green Violetear at one of the feeders, a tree fern, a crappy but identifiable picture of a Collared Redstart, and more hummingbirds (Green-crowned Brilliants, Green Violetear, and female Purple-throated Mountain-Gem).

[Stevie babe]

Great stuff Ovenbird

making me look forward to our 3rd Costa Rican visit in about 18 months time.

Also interested in reason for the spanish immersion course. is it with a view to regular visits to latin America or due to the seeingly increasing amount of Spanish being spoken in the US. Is it what you expected?

How's the weather behaving?

[Birdingcraft]

Originally Posted by ovenbird43

Lucky girl, you mean

4 July 09

My second full day in Monteverde, I decided to explore some other areas. I was in a hotel far from the main community, and ended up walking around for several hours in the morning in search of something open for breakfast and coffee. In the process I saw many birds, including White-eared Ground-Sparrow at my hotel grounds, Plain and Rufous-and-white Wrens, Gray-crowned Yellowthroat, and a most unexpected Chestnut-headed Oropendola.

In the afternoon, I visited the Bajo del Tigre area of the Children's Eternal Rainforest. This reserve offered a different compliment of species, since it was below the cloud forest level. It was a very windy afternoon, making birding difficult. There were several Three-wattled Bellbirds "bonking" right along the trail, but with the treetops whipping around I never managed more than a glimpse of a shape in flight. Fortunately, the trail that winds back and forth down a steep ravine took me mostly out of the wind, and I had more luck finding birds down there. I located a displaying pair of male Long-tailed Manakins, singing their "to-le-do" duet, and managed a short but decent look at one of them. I encountered a mixed-species flock composed of Golden-crowned Warblers, Lesser Greenlet, Ochre-bellied Flycatcher, and Red-crowned Ant-Tanager. On my way back out of the preserve, along the entrance road, I had stopped and was looking up into the trees when a male Three-wattled Bellbird landed on a bare branch right in the open. Wow, how lucky!

Oops, sorry! Lucky girl to live in Monteverde for a time. "Wind whipping through the trees at Bajo del Tigre"- yes! It's always like that there! Good spot for that Ant-Tanager in CR and way to go with the Manakin and Bellbird.

[Birdingcraft]

Originally Posted by ovenbird43

Indeed, I visited La Selva and had previously thought the antwren would be a gimme, based on some older literature I had read. I was saddened to learn and see firsthand how rare some of the understory insectivores have become. But I still had a great experience there, as I will describe at a later time.

Yes, it's such a shame. Even Nunbirds have become very rare (used to be guaranteed). Still very good birding though and worth a visit. Looking forward to your account!

[ovenbird43]

Originally Posted by Stevie babe

Also interested in reason for the spanish immersion course. is it with a view to regular visits to latin America or due to the seeingly increasing amount of Spanish being spoken in the US. Is it what you expected?

I decided to learn Spanish because I will be doing my dissertation research in Ecuador starting this winter. I've been there once with some other people, and my field site is quite remote and rather difficult to travel to, so a basic understanding of Spanish would be nearly essential if I have to travel on my own next time.

But the fact that Spanish is increasingly spoken in the US is another good reason for me to learn it. Even here in Arkansas I hear it on a regular basis, and when traveling to some places closer to the Mexican border, or to Miami, Florida, English becomes the minority.

[ovenbird43]

Originally Posted by Stevie babe

Is it what you expected?

If anything it was better than I expected. My teachers were all fantastic, and the lessons were completely in Spanish from day 1- which made me glad that I had taught myself a few basics before arriving! Although it requires a commitment of time and money to learn a language this way, it is far superior to learning in a typical college or high school setting in the US. We were constantly listening to it and speaking it, not merely memorizing vocabulary and grammar rules. I think after a month of learning in this manner I am better able to actually communicate with Spanish speakers than I ever was with French speakers after studying French for 4 years in high school, even though I technically knew more vocabulary in French.

[ovenbird43]

The day I moved in with my host family was one of the only difficult days for me, and one of the only days when I felt homesick. The family consisted of a mother and her 15-year-old son, and they were very nice, but with the vast language barrier it felt awkward for me. At that point I knew a few phrases in Spanish, and they even less in English, so there wasn't much more to say beyond "Hello, My name is..., How are you?". However, the classes and teachers were great, so I learned rapidly, and each day was able to communicate a little more with my family. By the second week I was able to learn a little bit about them, and to tell them a little about myself.

The house had a small yard with some flowering bushes and fruiting trees that attracted birds, including Canivet's Emerald, Steely-vented Hummingbird, Red-legged Honeycreeper, Yellow-bellied Elaenia, and Yellow-throated Euphonia. One morning I looked out an saw a pair of Gray-headed Chachalacas with 3 or 4 chicks in the bushes. The grounds around the school were also productive, and most days I saw/heard Buff-throated and Grayish Saltators, Blue-gray Tanager, Blue-and-white Swallow, Brown Jay, and Yellow-faced Grassquit. There were trails behind the school that often produced White-eared Ground-Sparrow and Orange-billed Nightingale-Thrush. During my 15-minute walk to school in the mornings, I usually heard Three-wattled Bellbirds in the distance.

Below are pictures of the chachalacas, my host family's house, and the school.

[birdboybowley]

Wow...nice school!!!

[Stevie babe]

Originally Posted by ovenbird43

If anything it was better than I expected. My teachers were all fantastic, and the lessons were completely in Spanish from day 1- which made me glad that I had taught myself a few basics before arriving! Although it requires a commitment of time and money to learn a language this way, it is far superior to learning in a typical college or high school setting in the US. We were constantly listening to it and speaking it, not merely memorizing vocabulary and grammar rules. I think after a month of learning in this manner I am better able to actually communicate with Spanish speakers than I ever was with French speakers after studying French for 4 years in high school, even though I technically knew more vocabulary in French.

Reason I asked is it is something my wife suggested we do, also in CR. once we have retired in not many years time. I'm quite happy to go do it as Spanish seems to be the common language in many places we want to go to, if not English. My only problem is - and I'm sure it must be for you too - is the distraction of birding or birds generally.

As per birdboybowley - wow - what a school and grounds.

Not that I'm envious of course!!

[Birdingcraft]

Ditto on the school and nice yard birds too!
Where is your field site in Ecuador?

[ovenbird43]

Originally Posted by Birdingcraft

Where is your field site in Ecuador?

Tiputini Biodiversity Station, in the eastern lowlands, right on the Tiputini River. A beautiful place!