[GarryKirsch]

I just bought my first dslr - the Canon T1i - 500D.
I would appreciate any tips that you may have to help me get the most out of this new camera. I have discovered single point auto focus - that was a help. And I am typically using the Tv mode using 1/500 for perched birds and 1/1000 for BIF. Is this a good approach?
Having had a Canon S5, I am completely new to things like Exposure Compensation, White Balance, RAW, etc.
Any help you can offer to get me going in the right direction would be appreciated.
Garry

[Cardamom Pod]

When I started out, I also shot in Tv mode, but I find that Av is much better. You can get a nice shallow depth of field with a small f-number (small f-number=large aperture=blurred background), and I find that the camera has a much better idea of what my shutter speed should be than I do. Also, although I'm not sure how much of a problem this is with your body, my XSi does not do too well at high ISO's, so I set it to 400 usually, aperture f5.6 (that's the largest aperture my lens can do), and see what sort of shutter speeds I'm getting. However, the 55-250 is relatively short, lightweight, and has Image Stabilization, so you can probably get away with slower shutter speeds than I can, although you want it fast enough to freeze movement. I hope this helps, and enjoy getting to know your camera!

[Fowl Mouth]

Agree with most of what Cardamom Pod says. Av is the way to go in most instances. When light is medium or less, though, I don't hesitate to push the ISO even higher than 400. Actually, since most bird activity seems to corelate with morning or evening, when available light is low, I find that ISO 800-1600 is where I typically keep my bodies. Not everyone agrees with this philosophy, but it works fine for me. Frankly, my now quite old 20D and 350D bodies are comparatively primative with regards to noise at these ISO levels. The newer bodies like your T1i is lightyears better, so 1600 shouldn't kill you if you need to push your limits.

[alanrharris53]

My advice (for what it is worth!)

Learn to shoot in RAW
Use Av but choose the aperture which gives you the sharpest photos for the lens you are using (usually not wide open)
Adjust the ISO to get the shutter speed you need.
For BiF turn the IS off or make sure it is on the right setting for panning (setting 2 on most lenses but not sure about yours)
If shooting BiF set exposure compensation to at least +1 to avoid getting a sillouette against a bright sky.

[Cardamom Pod]

That's true; I shoot my 400 at f5.6, but I think my 55-250 was at f7.1 or so.

[Fowl Mouth]

Originally Posted by alanrharris53

My advice (for what it is worth!)

Learn to shoot in RAW
Use Av but choose the aperture which gives you the sharpest photos for the lens you are using (usually not wide open)
Adjust the ISO to get the shutter speed you need.
For BiF turn the IS off or make sure it is on the right setting for panning (setting 2 on most lenses but not sure about yours)
If shooting BiF set exposure compensation to at least +1 to avoid getting a sillouette against a bright sky.

These are good tips, Alan. I shoot at ƒ8 on my Bigmos to get best details. Forgot about that one.

Also, another tip for BIF and other fast moving creatures, set your auto focus to "AI Servo" for constant tracking.

[Fowl Mouth]

Originally Posted by Cardamom Pod

That's true; I shoot my 400 at f5.6, but I think my 55-250 was at f7.1 or so.

Yup, the 400 1:5.6 is one of the rare lenses that's as sharp wide open as it is stopped down.