[christineredgate]

Could anyone advise please on the best settings to use with the Canon lens17-40mm landscape lens.Is it better if I use the Auto setting ,or the landscape setting on the camera as opposed to the P setting I use for bird photography.Only one red light shows up in the P setting,whereas in the Auto setting they all light up.Here is an example,but I'm not sure whether or not it would be considered as an acceptable image. I made sure that the red boat formed part of the image,and of course the mountain range was a great distance away.Do you think it looks okay?.
Thanks,

[infopt2000]

It's a lovely photo.

If you use the p setting you can alter the aperture to give yourself more or less depth of field. It will start off at the same settings as auto, then you can alter them to get the best effect.

[Adey Baker]

There's quite a lot of 'empty' space which gives your shot a wide vista. With a wide-angle shot you need something in the foreground to give a sense of scale - a slightly lower viewpoint would give just a bit more of the grass for the foreground interest and would also narrow-down the amount of the frame taken up by the water.

An alternative would be a tighter crop to make the boat the foreground with the mountains more prominent.

[nigelblake]

I always use AV (aperture priority) for landscape images, I also focus manually, generally (but depending on subject) I focus about a third of the way into the scene as depth of field will usually give about twice as much perceived sharpness behind the plane of focus as it does in front, my choice of aperture would be at least f11, smaller if the light allows it. However this depends very much on whether I want the main subject to stand out from the scene or not, a larger aperture such as f5.6 or f8 will allow you to keep the main point of interest in the image sharp, whilst the rest of the scaene will be softer.
It is really worth checking out the DOF tables for the lens you are using so that you can use Hyperfocal distance for your choice of the main zone of focus.

http://www.mike-daly.co.uk/ControllingDOF.html this is about the best feature I can find on the net
http://www.johnhendry.com/gadget/dof.php

http://www.walks4all.co.uk/photo/

[christineredgate]

Thankyou everyone for your comments,the websites you gave are very interesting ,Nigel,thankyou.
I guess practise with different settings is what is needed.

[nigelblake]

I think I have commented before in other threads that there is no substitute for setting up the camera on a scene and shooting at different combinations of settings, whilst you can read all sorts of techniques up in a book, there is no better way of understanding what the camera, aperture, shutter speed, point of focus in relation to depth of field, does to the resulting picture. Understanding aperture function, and how a subject can be isolated from or related to the background is fundamental to the success of an image.

I have been into photography for over 30 years now, and whilst I have embraced digital photography and the previous advances in photo technology when still using film cameras, I am really glad that my interest started when it was vital to understand the science of photography, pre auto everything, because it has meant that I can preguess when the 'chips' get it wrong. Light on a subject has an infinite way of manifesting what the picture will turn out like, and as yet the processors in cameras do not think of every possible combination. Ultimately the photographer is the key to getting it right. I use camera in my work as well as for my pastime, I do not think there are many days when I am not shooting images of some sort, and I stilll get dud shots! there is much to learn.

[christineredgate]

Nigel ,you are 100% correct here.The ones of us who have only ever used a digicamera ,where everything is laid on,Portrait,Landscape,Macro etc,have never had to think about the Aperures and Depth of field etc.
I have bought several books on photgraphy ,but honestly do not understand the various settings.So,I take advice which I receive from others,esp on this Forum,and go by trial and error.Unfortunately I am one of these people who need to be shown how something works,or have something written down stage by stage,to which I can keep referring until it is fixed in my mind.
I'm afraid if I had to sort out camera settings whils't a bird was perched in view,by the time I had sorted the camera manual,specs so that I could see what I was doing,the bird would have long flown off,and I would never take a photo.
So for people like myself,digital cams are easy to use,but I would like to make more of the equipment I use,if I knew the simple way to find the settings etc,which are relevant for the shot being taken at the time.

[nigelblake]

Give it time Christine, just like driving a car it will become second nature.

[Jay Turberville]

Of course you can give yourself virtually infinite DOF if you are willing to take multiple shots at different focus settings and do some Photshop blending of images.

This may not work well with rapidly changing light or if items in the landscape are moving about.

.........................................

Christine, perhaps you can show yourself. Put your camera on a tripod and sit down with camera, tripod and book. Go through one chapter on DOF for instance. Now make changes as discussed in the book. View the instant results that digital camera gives you. Try duplicating the examples the book shows (not precisely, but the general idea). Do only one subject/chapter in a day. No pressure. No rush. Have a soda (or a little wine, beer or whatever) and enjoy the outdoors (or indoors for that matter) while you experiment. Know that the pictures are purely experiments and don't have to be anything special. Repeat the process some later day if you want. When some of the concepts seem to stick, move on to something else.

The instant feedback from the camera and not having to concern yourself about wasting film make this kind of experimentation much easier than it used to be.

[scampo]

You're lucky to have such a lovely lens - but extreme wide angle photography is a skill in itself. It really comes down to youyr own creative eye as to whether a shot "works" or not. Your lens will give you tremendous possibilities.

The advice above is spot on - or you could use you camera to take a series of shots automatically each at 1/3 stop difference. I prefer to use a spot exposure reading taken from a part of the shot you most want to be exposed well, but you do also need to take a reading of the extremes to see what exposure range you are dealing with. The use of a tripod is also essential for such compositions, I reckon.

[Adey Baker]

I think Christine has a Canon 300D so the 17-40mm lens is more akin to a 28-70mm in 35mm format but the other comments are all valid

[scampo]

After I posted the email, Adey, that thought crossed my mind. In which case, it is barely wide angle. I always think of wide starting at 24mm!

[christineredgate]

Thanks,folks,I have had another try today,and I am now going to sell the lens.I don't know why,but it does not seem to produce what I want to see.I have also had a try with the Sigma macro lens,which fits this camera,and again,was really dissappointed.I am unable to get down close to the subject,and keep the camera steady.I found that with the wide angled lens,I took better pics with the Fuji 602 I had,and this lens does not seem to compare,so as Barry bought it for me,I am going to sell it,and put the cash towards a fixed Canon.If I was able to understand the various techniques,I would perhaps find it easier.This wide angle lens did have a very good write up in Digicamera mag,so it must be a good lens,it is just myself,who is not able to use it to it's full potential.
Steve,on re reading your comments,1/3rd of a stop,stop exposure,it really is a foreign language.I have found success with the 100-400 lens,so will stay within my limits.It is just a shame as we have such beautful scenery here.
But again thankyou everyone.Reading your comments has made me realise my limits as to the equipment I am able to use.

[scampo]

I think that your camera is able to take a series of shots automatically altering the exposure a little each time - you then choose the best when you look at the results.

I think you are not giving your lens sufficient trial at all. A wide angle lens is a professional landscape photographer's little secret, Christine!

[christineredgate]

Thanks,Steve,yes I did read somewher that one could choose the images,but it means altering the settings and then returning to the original.I think I ask for the impossible ,Steve,I want to see on a photo that which I can see with binoculars or scope.

[scampo]

Yes - perhaps you are right - technology has not quite caught up with the Redgate's needs as of yet, Christine!

((-;

[digi-birder]

Christine, I don't know how much of a trial you've given these lenses, but I can say that I have read on the Canon Digital Photography forum that the 17-40 is one of Canon's best lenses. Maybe you need to give it a little more time, as everyone else has suggested. The photo in your original post looks fine to me.

I bought the Sigma 105 macro the other week and my first trial with it was disappointing, as I can't hold my hands too steady either. While we were in Wales last week, I did some macro shots with the camera on a monopod with a ball head and they were fine.

[Adey Baker]

Originally Posted by digi-birder

I bought the Sigma 105 macro the other week and my first trial with it was disappointing, as I can't hold my hands too steady either. While we were in Wales last week, I did some macro shots with the camera on a monopod with a ball head and they were fine.

Diane

The 105mm macro is a specialist lens that requires practice to get the best from it - it's not always possible to use a tripod/monopod with some macro subjects so you'll need to practice a technique that feels comfortable to you.

As it's a telephoto lens, besides magnifying your subject, it will also magnify any imperfections in your technique such as camera-shake - this is why the recommendation to use a higher shutter speed when hand-holding tele-lenses is given.

Depth-of-field (how much of the subject that is acceptably sharp focus) also decreases with both longer lenses and close distance from your subject so focussing must be spot on, too. Manual focus is often recommended for close-up work as even the most sophisticated auto-focus system can't 'know' precisely which bit of the subject you want your main area of sharp focus to be!

On the plus side, though, is the fact that many macro subjects such as Butterflies and Dragonflies are often tackled on bright, sunny days so the high levels of light means you can usually get a decent shutter speed as well as being able to stop the aperture down several stops to increase depth of field.

If you're struggling to get a fast enough shutter speed increasing the ISO setting can help - a slightly 'grainy' sharp photo is better than a clean blurred one!

As for how best to hand-hold your lens, then 'practice, practice, practice' is the best advice. Obviously, with macro subjects there's not just one technique to cover everything as sometimes you'll be standing up and other times crawling along on all fours through long grass, etc!

Breathing out is good just before pressing the shutter as it relaxes the body somewhat whereas breathing in and holding your breath tenses you up like a fiddle string.

With right hand on the camera body next to the shutter button your left hand should 'cup' the underside of the lens with your fingers on the focus ring.

Use your elbows as a sort of tripod-substitute - either on the ground, top of a gate or on a convenient tree branch, etc., or tucked into your body as comfortably as you can get them if you have to stand up with no support and make sure your stance is as comfortable and relaxed as you can be.

Good luck!

[digi-birder]

Originally Posted by Adey Baker

Diane

The 105mm macro is a specialist lens that requires practice to get the best from it - it's not always possible to use a tripod/monopod with some macro subjects so you'll need to practice a technique that feels comfortable to you.

Thanks for that info, Adey - very useful.

I suppose I didn't give enough info in my post above, but I found the monopod technique very good. I was still on my knees with the monopod fully closed and managed to angle the ball head perfectly to reach the subject (a fly on a flower head). I used manual focus and auto focus and I'm happy with most of the photos, no matter which focus method was used. I managed to get the monopod pretty stable and take the shots without too much bother. I'll try and post some soon.

[christineredgate]

Thanks again for your comments everyone,yes Diane I do believe the Canon wide angle lens is good,but I cannot seem to take a really good pic,but I have been practising today with the Sigma macro,and here are a couple of the results.I was very near to the lily,had to stand on a stool and hold the camera over a gate,but they were quite still ,not out in the open.

[christineredgate]

Originally Posted by scampo

I think that your camera is able to take a series of shots automatically altering the exposure a little each time - you then choose the best when you look at the results.

I think you are not giving your lens sufficient trial at all. A wide angle lens is a professional landscape photographer's little secret, Christine!

Steve, how does this happen,that the camera will auto alter the exposure each time,it sounds just the job,has anyone else used this method?

[digi-birder]

Please post some examples of what you mean when you say you can't take a really good photo. And how much better than the one above do you want it to be? It looks fine to me. Your macro shots are certainly better than my first efforts!

Below is one of the shots I took in Wales, with the camera on the monopod. It certainly helped in keeping the camera more steady.

[christineredgate]

Diane,Hi,I'll go into the recycle bin and see if my spider is still there.These Lily pics are only okay as I was very near and did not have to bend down but the bee and spider were not so good.Your pic is great.Very clear.Perhaps it is not windy in Yorkshire!!.It is here.Will be back in a couple of secs.

[digi-birder]

Originally Posted by christineredgate

Perhaps it is not windy in Yorkshire!!

The shot above was on Dinas Head in Wales!! Although it wasn't too windy at the time.

[christineredgate]

Okay,here are a couple more.The first bee I have applied a filter to.I cannot resist playing around with these filters,the colours fascinate me,alas,I will never be a serious photographer!!,but the second bee is just as he was taken blowing around on a large thistle type flower.The spider was so difficult,the wind was blowing his very fine web around.