[beth55xx]

It's about time I got a new pair of binoculars, and I was wondering what magnification level works best for general use. At the moment I have 10x, but should I go lower?

[Malloot]

Originally Posted by beth55xx

It's about time I got a new pair of binoculars, and I was wondering what magnification level works best for general use. At the moment I have 10x, but should I go lower?

That is a very personal choise. I prefer 7x, max. 8x. I really don't like 10x. I'm to shakey for them. 7x gives me enough magnification and a relax steady image.

[squidge]

I use 8x at the moment but I've noticed that a lot of my birding recently involves seawatching or looking over large expanses so I've been thinking about getting a 10x. 8x is fine for woodland, hedgerow and general birding but I feel the extra 2x is needed for seawatching and moorland birding. So I guess its personal preference for general use but for me its 8x with getting the 10x for when I need the extra reach. Ger.

[FrankD]

Originally Posted by Malloot

That is a very personal choise. I prefer 7x, max. 8x. I really don't like 10x. I'm to shakey for them. 7x gives me enough magnification and a relax steady image.

My thoughts as well. I would probably be using a 7x42 as my primary binocular right now if I could find one that was reasonably priced and offered the performance level that I prefer. With the market so sparse with a 7x42 of this criteria I tend to lean towards 8x42s and 8x32s.

[Doctor Twitchings]

In my opinion it's a no brainer - 10x. I always want as close a view as possible of every bird I see, and 10x is the most powerful binocular that is widely used. I think 12x is too powerful for general birding. I use 10 x 32 Leicas - light, compact and powerful.

[typo]

Hi Beth,

I think general advice might be 6 or 7x is fine for gardens and woodland, and 10x for bigger distances. Most people's hands are not steady enough to use higher powers than that. If you do a bit of everything then 8x is probably the most versatile. Normally lower powers have a wider view and more in focus making it easier to find the birds.

Where I live, I find 7x is most useful, but I might take a higher power if I think they might be needed.

Nice drawings by the way.

David

[John Russell]

Originally Posted by FrankD

My thoughts as well. I would probably be using a 7x42 as my primary binocular right now if I could find one that was reasonably priced and offered the performance level that I prefer. With the market so sparse with a 7x42 of this criteria I tend to lean towards 8x42s and 8x32s.

Frank,

You surely can't have forgotten the Meopta B1?

I believe there are only 3 other quality 7x42 roofs still in production, the Leica Ultravid HD, the Nikon EDG and the Zeiss FL, but all three are in a much higher price category.

We still have a 7x42 Meopta and a 7x42 Swaro SLC in the family. I also have a 10x42 FL but every time I pick up a 7x42 the wide, steady and easy view is a real delight. No shortage of eye relief either with the lower magnifications and longer focal length eyepieces.

John

[Pinewood]

Hello Beth,

There is no one binocular for all situations. I like eight power for general use, but my ideal kit is a 7x42 and a 10x32, using the 10x32, when needed.
Edit: I just read in another post that you are thirteen years-old. If you can hold a ten steady, at your age, then it would be many decades before shakes might become a problem.

Happy bird watching,
Arthur Pinewood

[ceasar]

Beth,
Your drawings are indeed very nice!

If you are thinking of getting an all around binocular that could also help you out with your bird art you might also consider the smaller and lighter weight 8 x 32 binoculars.

Bob

[Jonathan B.]

Originally Posted by beth55xx

It's about time I got a new pair of binoculars, and I was wondering what magnification level works best for general use. At the moment I have 10x, but should I go lower?

Hi Beth,

Welcome to Birdforum. Your drawings are exceptional, so whatever you do in life, don't stop drawing! You clearly have a future as a wildlife artist or scientific illustrator.

At your age you can probably hold 10X steady, and if you like the view, stick with it. However as magnification decreases, the depth of the image that is in focus increases, and the more "relaxed" and natural the view appears. That is why I use only 7X and 8X binoculars.

I strongly suggest that you go to a store where you can try out binoculars of different magnifications. Ideally they would let you try them outdoors.

Good luck.

[gw4aurora]

Never underestimate the weight of bins these young girls can hold. I remember being in a hide when a group of girls came and as there was shortage of glass so I let three look through my 10x50 BA. They held them up for a long period with no shakes, when I asked if they were to heavy they said no and the bins were nice and clear.

Beth, visit a shop or two and try the differant sizes.

Chris.

[Purple Martin]

Up until recently I would have said 8x. But I have come around to the opinion that 7x is the best "all around" magnification (brighter, larger FOV, steadier). Actually, either one will work well. Occasionally I prefer the closer view of 8.5x (I think the Audubon roof is actually nearer 9x) and I use a 15x63 (mounted) for astronomy (the smaller objective cuts down light pollution). At work I keep an old pair of Swift Sea Hawk 6x30 for just viewing out the window.

Martin

[John Dracon]

Beth - A good 7 power binocular comes closer to being ideal for most users. As we grow older, we aren't as steady as we think we are. Often a person looks through a good 6 power binocular and is surprised at the detail they can see. John

[ceasar]

Basically, what we are all saying here is: Try as many as you can and pick the one you like the best!

32mm binoculars are lighter and usually have wider fields of view than 42mm binoculars. Glass is heavy and the lenses and prisms in the 42mm binoculars are larger and heavier than those in 32mm.

Bob

[4John]

Beth,

All the advantages and disadvantages and preferences have been posted above, so you can now make an informed choice, but as always it has to be your choice. I therefore recommend you go to a Field Day and try out at least an 8x30, 8x42 and compare them with your 10x binoculars and see what works for you. In Focus and Kay Optical are 2 of several optics shops that do Field Days in the south east of England which may work for you. Details are on their websites. There are others, including some of the London Camera Exchange shops that specialze in optics.

Mark

[beth55xx]

Ok, thank you all for you replies. I will try out as many as I can in the shop and buy what is best for me. :) Beth

[Purple Martin]

Let us know what you pick.

[marinemaster]

7x what I use
Leupold makes a 7x Japan made
I just got one, I really like it. It's quality is good, entry level birding.

I also like the Minox BVII because is 28oz and for a 8x I need something above 25oz to keep steady.

I also tried the Nikon 8x36 and it was steady because of the compact size.

The older lead glass Nikon 8x32 LX is good except that my fingers were crammed together too much, else it was great

7x is best compromise in my book

[Tvc15_2000]

I agree its a personal choice.

I use 10x for everything from hawk watches at distance to warblers up close.

I don't want be see what else is circling in a distant kettle of Broad wings. at 6 times magnification, I want to bring that kettle at 10 times closer. If I have time I will use the socpe and bring them 50 times closer.

I don’t want to try and ID a smaller Green Winged Teal hitchhiking in a line of Scooters a mile off shore with 7x. or 8x. I want bring that line 10 times closer. Of course not every one feels the same.

I love getting as close to the bird as I can. The more detail the better. I prefer the fame filled with the subject and am not concerned about what I am not looking at. That is my preference. My hands are steady and I can zero in on the bird at first glance (due to lots of practice).

BE AWARE:
Some people complain their hands are too shaky for 10x (if alcohol is unavailable).
But the same complainers report they can't find the bird with 10x (if alcohol is available)!

Good Luck I will be curious how you like other powers after using 10x.
Please do report back.

[etudiant]

Hi beth55xx,
The question is what are you trying to improve in your binoculars.
Is it simply that your current pair is optically marginal or are there specific issues?
Magnification per se is not a good primary criterion. Imho. 10x or 12x glasses are quite wonderful for birding, just as are lower power 7x or 8x models. They just have different strengths and only you can decide what best suits you, the extra reach of the higher power or the wider field and more relaxed view of the lower power.
Issues such as waterproofing and warranties come after optical performance, but fortunately the current offerings of inexpensive good glass are the best ever, so you have lots of choices.
Pricewise, I think the Nikon Action Extreme waterproof porro glass sets the standard for budget glass, with a huge number of excellent roof prism glasses from Hawke, Zen Ray and many others beyond that.
High end glass, mostly from Swarovski, Leica and Zeiss is lifetime investment, unfortunately beyond the reach of most ordinary mortals. Happily you get 90% of the performance even with a low end porro costing less than a tenth as much. Plus the birds don't care.
Please let us know what you decide and why. It will help the next birder in the same position.

[John Russell]

Originally Posted by Tvc15_2000

I don’t want to try and ID a smaller Green Winged Teal hitchhiking in a line of Scooters a mile off shore with 7x. or 8x. I want bring that line 10 times closer.

You're saying you could identify the birds at 176 yds with the naked eye, but with the shakes thrown in.

You're a better man than I, Gunga Din!

John

[beth55xx]

Originally Posted by Purple Martin

Let us know what you pick.

Will do! Going out to get some new ones next weekend. :)

[Tvc15_2000]

Perhaps you mean 1760 yards?

At that distance I am using general shape and impression identification (JIZZ birding http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jizz_(birding) ) and the knowledge of which birds are on the wing and migrating down the coast at that time.

It’s pretty easy to tell the type of bird due to the flock formation in the flight line. Some hand held motion is not a problem while doing that (for me). The field marks on the bird cant be seen at that distance but the flight characteristics, behavior and general shape can.

Cormorants form smooth slow changing waves in the flight line. Slow wing beats and some gliding.

Scooter flight lines have rapidly changing ripples that clump then stretch out again
The wing beats are continuous. The space between birds is greater for Scooters.

Brants fly in clumps. Red Throated Loons fly in widely spaced flocks. If you can detect feet sticking out the back – it is a loon and that can be done at long distance.

Its more difficult to spot individuals of a different size in the flight line but defiantly possible. This requires more than a casual scan of the line of birds. You have to look at individuals. Once you see it they stick out in comparison to the other birds in the line (at least for the birders I go with). If you are familiar with the relative size of the birds its not hard to tell who the interloper in the line is. At that point I don't ignore my scope. I always want a better look.

Same for raptors far beyond 1760 yards. The flight styles are so different an ID can be made, hand held with reasonable unsteadiness when the birds are hardly more than specs in the binoculars.

The shakes part was an attempt at some birding humor (which I suppose failed, sorry).

You are correct when I develop unsteadiness - I may someday have to abandon the 10x.or tripod mount my beloved 10s. Hopefully that day is far off for me. I would have to replace the entire fleet!

I am not recommending 10s for everyone. But for some they have desirable advantages which can be considered. Especilly for me this time of year when Raptor migration is in full swing and shore birds are coming down the coast.

[vop]

Originally Posted by Tvc15_2000

Perhaps you mean 1760 yards?

...

I guess he meant that a mile away with 10x binos equals 176 yards with no binos.

When going on general shape/size and flight formation, how big is the difference to 220 or 251 yards if you use 8x or 7x?

[pinussen]

If shaking is a problem, a finnstick might be the solution. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Finnstick Haven't tried one myself but seen it in action.