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Old Thursday 2nd February 2012, 23:16   #1
JWcamp
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Sears 10x50 porro prism binoculars

Hello,
I found my old Sears labeled 10x50 binoculars and wondered if anyone had any information about them?
I think I bought them new in the early 70's?

Data:
Left side = Sears Model# 2531, Fully Amber Coated
Right side = 10x50mm, Extra Wide Angle, 420 ft at 1000 yards

Hinge cap = made in Japan
CL-83026

Cast in frame [with a funky J] = JB46

Oval sticker = C&S, Passed, IGMPC

Measured close focus = 32 feet
Weight = 2 pounds on the dot
folding rubber eyecups [still nice rubber]

Regards,
John
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Old Thursday 2nd February 2012, 23:34   #2
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Searching around it looks like the JB 46 means that they were made by Otsuka Kogaku Co. Ltd., Tokyo Japan
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Old Friday 3rd February 2012, 01:49   #3
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John,

Do you have a picture of those?

I have been collecting the Sears vintage porros lately. I don't have a 10x50 model but do have two 7x50s and many 7x35s. I am guessing they have the more classic body style as opposed to the block-style but could be mistaken. Would love to see them.

Thanks.
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Old Friday 3rd February 2012, 10:31   #4
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Frank,
I will get some photographs, and try to post them.
The case is original, but the neck strap is a replacement one with neoprene.
Regards,
John
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Old Friday 3rd February 2012, 12:49   #5
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Thanks John. I look forwarding to seeing the pics so we can determine which variety of Sears porro you have.
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Old Saturday 4th February 2012, 00:48   #6
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Here are a couple of pictures of the Sears 10x50 Extra Wide Angle binoculars.
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Old Saturday 4th February 2012, 00:56   #7
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Two more pictures:
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Old Sunday 5th February 2012, 16:50   #8
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John don't know this particular binocular, some are good some not. If the internals are clear they well be usable.
I would expect a fairly sharp central field, going soft towards the edges. Single coatings at a guess prisms are probably uncoated.
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Old Monday 6th February 2012, 00:04   #9
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This pair has been great to me.
Back in the day, I really enjoyed birding with them.

Entering my reservations for this years Allegany Nature Pilgrimage, I reminisce about years past with these Sears 10 x 50's.

I've got a birthday coming up in March, so....

i've got a super wife...

So maybe a new pair...

Lighter with much closer focus.
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Old Monday 6th February 2012, 09:38   #10
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I'm no help on the date, yet I've similar. Same body/barrels & J-B46 w/same tripod mount under the right prism. Identical fonts/colour scheme on the prism face save mine a No.6213. Plastic-rubber strap & a rainguard proudly displaying the SEARS logo in a rectangle box.

Eyepieces slightly different as is the focus wheel. Mine has silver lugs separated by lines going the other direction. The diopter pattern is identical w/red zero. Mine has silver rings that fit between the endcap & barrel.

They're a heavy build & appear rugged. Somewhere past that model they went to a major design change going w/one piece body. I have one Model 6282 & it has the same style fonts/colours except it's 400' FOV and the prism covers , whilst similar on the bottom, are rounded at the top. Apparently using fatter prisms & the oculars are wider.

Black leather strap, tripod mount under right prism, yet different design w/three chrome panhead screws apparently securing the chrome adapter to the body. Diopter numbers smaller & wider apart still has red zero. Individual lens coves all around w/Sears logo. Now the focus wheel & eyepieces have a simple ribbed pattern.

Body length seems the same , yet barrel section is about 5mm longer. Incidentally the oculars are 25mm on these in comparison to 21mm on the others. Also the prism face is flat where others are slightly rounded being higher in the middle. No chrome beauty rings on this one still J-B46 w/Japan on the hinge cap though plain raised instead of painted white. Bronze oval inspection sticker w/red boundary & large letters reading 'passed' going to smaller pale blue letters reading, japan telescopes inspection institute. Not as much metal, so lighter weight.

I enjoy both, especially for the price, w/similarities & differences.
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Old Monday 6th February 2012, 14:07   #11
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JW,

I have the 8x50 version of this model. I bought it about a month ago. I can confirm much of what Simon posted about coatings and image quality. I didn't check the prisms. my pair arrived with a broken rocker arm which I have not been able to fix. The seller refunded my money but told me to keep the bins since I only paid $19 for it. It serves as my current feeder bin so that I don't have to worry about refocusing.

A solid performer and I can see why you might enjoy the 10x50 so much. "Sears" made a very good binocular back in the day.

Thank you for the pics.
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Old Monday 6th February 2012, 15:06   #12
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Found it on the bay just now....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sears-binocu...item33715e370f
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Old Monday 5th March 2012, 04:31   #13
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Sears 10x50 porro prism binoculars

Frank,

I've got a pair of mid-1960s Sears 20 x 50 porro prism binoculars that I bought new back around 1964. The images are slightly misaligned, but I can't find an adjustment screw for the prisms. The Sears model number is 6220. It has two JL numbers on the front of the housing. One is JL E15. The other is JL B115. Any ideas?

Bruce
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Old Monday 5th March 2012, 12:34   #14
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Are there collimation rings around the objectives?
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Old Monday 5th March 2012, 19:16   #15
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Frank, I'm not really an expert on this, but it doesn't look like it has collimation rings. There are removable trim rings on the end of the barrel, but it doesn't look like any of the rings underneath are moveable. They look like the end of the objective lens barrel. The inside edge appears to be threaded for a filter.
I've attached some pictures showing the ends of the barrel, the manufacturers markings, and an overall shot of the binocs. Mostly they show that the glasses need a thorough cleaning.

I appreciate the help.

Bruce
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Old Monday 5th March 2012, 20:23   #16
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Bruce,

You really need a straight on shot of the objective lens. Sometimes the eccentric ring under the retaining collar only has one slot and sometimes it is not visible unless the retaining ring is backed out a little.

Try and either slightly tighten or loosen the objective barrels and see if you note a shift in image.

Sometimes things go out because something loosened up a little.
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Old Monday 5th March 2012, 20:42   #17
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Bruce,

The left photo shows what appears to be an eccentric ring, wider at the bottom. Removing the slotted retaining ring in front should give you access. One eccentric ring should be nestled inside the other.

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Old Monday 5th March 2012, 22:14   #18
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Great info, guys. There are, in fact, two slotted rings. I took the first one out. The second one seems to rotate freely inside. Should I unscrew that. At what point would I actually be making collimation adjustments. I'm astonished that after nearly 50 years these components could be hand loosened. Not bad for a relatively inexpensive set of glasses.

Thanks again.

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Old Tuesday 6th March 2012, 01:08   #19
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Before you go to messing with that inner ring, don't. Now that you know it's there, put it back fairly snug, note the relative positions of everything (where the slots are etc). Then you need to figure out which side is out of collimation and work on that side without touching the other side. If you get overambitious you have a boatload of frustration ahead.
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Old Tuesday 6th March 2012, 02:56   #20
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Thanks for the warning, Steve. Fortunately, haven't done anything but just wiggle it back and forth. I guess the next step would be to decide which side has slipped out of adjustment and determine which direction its image needs to be moved. How do you choose which side is correct?

Thanks again for taking time with me on this.

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Old Tuesday 6th March 2012, 12:33   #21
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Bruce,

Steve posted something about this in another thread recently but I forget which at the moment. Basically you place the binoculars on a steady rest. Look through both barrels from a few inches away and decide which barrel looks to have a specific object centered in the field of view. Once you determine this then you can start tinkering with the other side. Make note of where the collimation ring slot is when you start and then just start moving it in small increments...clockwise or counter clockwise. Keep track of exactly how far you are moving it from the original starting point.

Eventually you will get it collimated.
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Old Tuesday 6th March 2012, 12:49   #22
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Bruce,
You really canít determine which side is off by eye. True collimation requires that each optical barrel be aligned with the center axle as well as each other. You canít do that without a collimator. The best you can do is to align the right and left barrels to each other for your IPD only. Collimation will wander off for any other IPD setting, so be sure to have the binocular correctly set for yours when you do this.

Steve and Frankís advice to go slowly and make marks for returning to original settings is good. Just start with one side, move it a little in one direction and check whether that helps or hurts, then go from there.

The photo below shows a typical arrangement of eccentric rings. You see there are two, a silver outer ring and a dark inner ring. Two are needed in order to give the objective lens a full range of eccentricity in every direction. You might get lucky and find a reasonable alignment from just a little tweak of one side or you might spend a couple of hours moving both sides back and forth and never quite getting it right. Have fun. ;-)

Henry
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Old Tuesday 6th March 2012, 15:03   #23
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Henry is right about the collimation. However you can get close. I would do a couple of simple things first. You said somewhere you were amazed how easy the rings moved. This make me wonder if maybe time has simply loosened things up a bit. That was the case with the very first "collimation" job I did. The retaining ring had loosened up and had let a collimation ring slip a little. When I tightened up the retaining ring, there was a slight shift in the position of the eccentric ring, which evidently was all it took for that one. Beginner's luck for sure.

Another thing with the German/Zeiss style body of your binocular is that the objective barrels will unscrew from the rest of the binocular. Here also, the problem may be that one or both of the barrels has loosened up over time and shifted a bit. I'd try torquing/releasing the barrels one at a time and see what happens.

What I do is look for alignment two ways. First on a power line for vertical displacement (dipvergence). I also use a lone tree on a high ridge line a couple of miles away to check horizontal displacement (convergence, divegence). While not perfect, the use of a steady, repeatable rest will tell a lot about which way to move things. Also the ridge line will show dipvergunce at greater distance too.

Remember that one of the seemingly simplest things can also be one of the most frustrating and potentially damaging things to do. That is the simple fact of unscrewing things and then having to screw them back together. Be careful, deliberate, and patient or you can really screw things up.

You may have to tweak things several times. Without a true collimator, you can get to the point where you think you have it right, tighten things up, take a break. Next time you look, you think...that's maybe better than it was, but still not quite right.
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Old Tuesday 6th March 2012, 19:59   #24
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I set the glasses up on a tripod this afternoon and made minor adjustments. I'm pretty close now. It will be very clear here in the mountains tonight. I'll aim them at a bright star and see how things look.

This has been excellent help. I've been living with this problem for quite a while. Actually I've just been using other binoculars. I was reorganizing a closet yesterday and came across these. It's the first time I've thought about getting them fixed since the internet came along (which shows you how long they've been in the closet). One Google search turned up this site, and I figured I'd find somebody with expertise here.

Thanks a lot. I'll let you know how they look after tonight.
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