[BirdingDoc]

Having just returned from a successful trip to Cuba to find its endemic species (thanks to Bruce DiLabio from Ottawa, with whom I saw 145 species), both Bruce and I ran into a sticky situation that others may wish to avoid.

Upon arrival in Havana, all cabin baggage is x-rayed. In my case, my backpack yielded the image of a camera and telephoto lens (Canon 40D with a 400 mm f5.6 lens, somewhat outdated and rather inexpensive gear). This led to repeated questioning by various police-type customs workers, many of whom did not speak English and who persisted in asking me questions in Spanish without attempting to find an interpreter who could help me understand their questions. For more than an hour they searched all my possessions, though they did not strip search me. They did photograph all of my non-clothing articles, including checking the margins of my Field Guide to the Birds of Cuba to search for messages. My Macintosh laptop was also carefully scrutinized. My socks and underwear were put on display while being checked for radios and other illegal objects. All the while, I remained calm and polite, while respectfully answering their questions with the only phrase I know, "I don't understand Spanish."

Bruce DiLabio, who like me is a Canadian citizen, arrived on a different flight from mine but received similar treatment. His offence was bringing in two small, inexpensive Motorola walkie-talkies which are often used by birders in North America. These operate on the open frequencies of the Family Radio Service (FRS) and General Mobile Radio Service (GMRS) bands.

We subsequently learned later that Cuban authorities have, for the past year or so, been vigilant in searching the luggage of tourists for equipment that could be used to spy on their country.

My birding trip was very successful and I love the people of Cuba. The government, however, is another story. The fact that they record the serial number of every postcard you buy (yes, Cuban postcards have a serial number in the upper right hand corner to track them), along with your name, address and passport number, is evidence that Fidel is still watching.

The lesson may be to hide telephoto lenses and spotting scopes in baggage that is checked rather than carried into the aircraft cabin (though this admittedly has its own risks). And don't even think of bringing along a walkie-talkie. Or, until things in Cuba improve, chose an alternate Central American destination.

Charles

[Xenospiza]

A GPS is also not allowed, as far as I am aware.

[BirdingDoc]

Originally Posted by Xenospiza

A GPS is also not allowed, as far as I am aware.

I presumed that GPS is forbidden, inasmuch as it was one of the few questions which I understood. Cuba customs checked my cell phone, which was turned off but in my backpack, to be certain that it was acceptable. Because of this concern, I purposely did not bring the Jobo GPS unit for my camera. The lack of a camera GPS wasn't much of a hindrance, as I was able to geotag all my photos when I got home, thanks to the mapping functions in the new Lightroom software. The satellite maps of Cuba were adequate for this purpose.

[Maroon Jay]

So did they finally believe that you were a bird photographer and not a spy? I think you would make a poor spy with that equipment. A spy would have a better and smaller camera and be more descreet. How was the birding? I am planning a trip to Cuba, perhaps next winter. Do you have a trip report? Did you see the Bee Humingbird? What other problems, dangers?

[Peewit]

That is sad to hear that is the case at some airports, birdingdoc..that so many suspicions are cast over many people from all over the world.

I have often wondered about carrying optics (as we do when we go birding in Spain each year) through airports in any area that there will be that 'small' chance that customs, or otherwise will be suspicious of our intentions of doing illegal and immoral things at all

As many know I go to Menorca each year. Three years ago, I was taken aside for having a pair of nail scissors in my hand bag by airport staff. I forgot to pack them away in my main suitcase..now I leave them at home.

It felt really upsetting to find myself standing next to the Police with guns coming out of every orifice on their bodies.

Not a nice feeling at all, and as for taking expensive optic equipment that is shocking..does the holiday insurance cover that at all?

Regards
Kathy
x

[Jos Stratford]

Originally Posted by Peewit

As many know I go to Menorca each year. Three years ago, I was taken aside for....

It felt really upsetting to find myself standing next to the Police with guns coming out of every orifice on their bodies.

I would feel it rather more upsetting to find myself upon a plane that is disintegrating following an explosion.

If adding a layer of security at an airport simply means I spend an extra few minutes in a queue gazing at armed police, so be it.


Also no big deal to an hour of searching by Cuban immigration - my trip to the US last year involved more than this in questioning by the U.S. immigration/customs folk (a whole bunch of weird questions in Helsinki prior to boarding the plane, less on arrival in Chicago, but a car search and separation of myself and companion for questioning on re-entry into the US from Canada. All were polite, so if that's the system, also so be it)

[J. Moore]

Originally Posted by Jos Stratford

Also no big deal to an hour of searching by Cuban immigration - my trip to the US last year involved more than this in questioning by the U.S. immigration/customs folk (a whole bunch of weird questions in Helsinki prior to boarding the plane, less on arrival in Chicago, but a car search and separation of myself and companion foe questioning on re-entry into the US from Canada. All were polite, so if that's the system, also so be it)

Hardly a surprise that you, with multiple trips to Iran evident from your passport, would be subject to extensive interrogation when traveling to the U.S. But certainly surprising to me that a tourist who did nothing more suspicious than openly carry a camera would be subject to extensive interrogation and intrusive searches by Cuban authorities. Those Cuban customs guys must be busy if they interrogate and search for an hour everyone who enters their country with a camera.

Jim

[Jos Stratford]

Originally Posted by J. Moore

Hardly a surprise that you, with multiple trips to Iran evident from your passport, would be subject to extensive interrogation when traveling to the U.S.

Iranian stamps were not seen.

It is now standard that US-bound tourists get questioned at European airports by US immigration - typical questions include: when did you buy ticket? how much did it cost? how long have you known companion? where did you meet? What model is camera? How old? Have you had it serviced or repaired in the last year? etc etc.

PS Iranian immigration ask nothing, search nothing and even smile

[J. Moore]

Originally Posted by Jos Stratford

PS Iranian immigration ask nothing, search nothing and even smile

Unless you're a U.S. citizen who goes hiking--then you're thrown in jail for a year.

[Bob Biggs]

Originally Posted by Maroon Jay

So did they finally believe that you were a bird photographer and not a spy? I think you would make a poor spy with that equipment. A spy would have a better and smaller camera and be more descreet. How was the birding? I am planning a trip to Cuba, perhaps next winter. Do you have a trip report? Did you see the Bee Humingbird? What other problems, dangers?

Have a look at "Birdtours.Co.uk". My report is on there from last March. We were kept back for 3 hours on arrival at Havana. Our tripods in the hold luggage were our downfall. It's not a good way to start a holiday......

Good birding when they finally let you in

[Jos Stratford]

Originally Posted by J. Moore

Unless you're a U.S. citizen who goes hiking--then you're thrown in jail for a year.

They being U.S. citizens that just happened to be hiking in the mountains of Iraq in the middle of the Iraq conflict, then illegally crossed the border into Iran. If you choose to travel in such a dangerous/sensitive area, you should be damn sure where the border is, and not even venture near it, let alone across it. A bit stupid me thinks.

Hardly a comparison.

[BirdingDoc]

Originally Posted by Maroon Jay

... I think you would make a poor spy with that equipment... How was the birding? ... Do you have a trip report? Did you see the Bee Humingbird? What other problems, dangers?

I agree with your comments, Maroon Jay, that my equipment would indicate I was a rather poorly-equipped spy. I felt sorry for the customs officer who was tasked with assembling my electronic gear — his ignorance of common electronic devices was evident when he had no idea how to use the two white cables to connect my MacBook Pro to my iPod Touch (with its numerous birding apps) and to the card reader for the CF card from my camera, let alone what the gears purpose was. He had no idea what was the purpose of my computer and iPod apps. When I attempted to help him with the connections, he firmly pushed my hands away; I was rather concerned that he was going to break a connector.

In response to your query about other problems and dangers, apart from Big Brother, I felt quite safe. Cuba is indeed a relatively crime-free country, perhaps due in part to the surveillance. And because I was in the hands of Cubatur (the government’s tour operator) with a full-time guide who parroted the official government viewpoint, I had no concerns about anything untoward happening. And, being in the hands of the Cuban government, I used the occasion to discuss the politics of Cuba, impishly explaining parts of history that are disallowed in Cuba.

Cuba’s tourism industry is suffering because visitors do not come back to the island, for good reason. Canadians are likely their biggest source of tourists, and here in Canada they do not have a good reputation; hence, they are directing their advertising to Russians and east Europeans who are less demanding in their requirements for an all-inclusive vacation. While the people are wonderful, Cuba suffers from poor service, poorly-functioning facilities, and limited activities and entertainment. In all places I visited throughout the country, the food was at best mediocre, and unless you enjoy drinking cheap Cuban rum with lousy Cuban cola, there were few niceties to be found. Shopping is a non-experience — ever since Castro nationalized all of Cuba’s 58,000 retail operations in 1968 in his “Great Revolutionary Offensive”, not only have consumer goods disappeared but so have the stores.

It is important to note that I did not merely stay in the vacation resorts on the north coast of the island, but travelled around to places which tourists do not normally visit. My purpose for the trip was to see birds, not to sit on a beach. From that viewpoint, the trip was successful.

Trip description:

Day 1 (February 27)
Arrived late in the evening and after the lengthy process of clearing customs and long wait to exchange money into CUC (Cuba’s convertible currency, as they don’t accept dollars or Euros), had dinner at a restaurant on the outskirts of Havana and drove to the Hotel Soaroa, southwest of Havana. Apart from a Killdeer which struck the vehicle, no birds were encountered. But I did fall in love with all the 1950’s era cars which are on the roads.

Day 2 (February 28)
I counted a total of 56 species this day. We began birding near the beautiful caves where Che Guevera hid, at Cuevas de los Portales in La Güira National Park in Pinar del Rio province (note that Cuba recently redistributed its provinces, so older publications will differ in their locations). Here we encountered Arturo Kirkconnell, who authored Field Guide to the Birds of Cuba and who kindly signed out books. The special birds here were the Cuban Solitaire, Cuban Bullfinch, Cuban Tody, and the West Indian and Cuban Green Woodpeckers.

Late morning walks near San Diego de los Baños, also in Pinar del Rio, yielded the Great Lizard Cuckoo, and the Cuban and Yellow-faced Grassquits. South of Havana in Artemisa province, we saw waterfowl and wading birds (no shorebirds) and many Snail Kites. That evening we drove to Playa Girón, located on the infamous Bay of Pigs (Bahía de los Cochinos) in Matanzas province on Cuba’s south coast.

Day 3 (February 29)
I counted a total of 59 species this day. The morning was spent on the salt marshes (La Salinas) on the east side of the Bay, in Zapata National Park (Parque Nacional Ciénaga de Zapata). There was a superb collection of avifauna including American Flamingo, Roseate Spoonbill, Wood Stork, four Herons (Green, Great Blue, Tricoloured and Little), both Pelicans (American White and Brown), Cuban Black Hawk, Cuban subspecies of American Kestrel, Clapper Rail, and five shorebirds (Black-bellied Plover, Short-billed Dowitcher, Willet and both Yellowlegs).

The afternoon was spent in a wooded area closer to Playa Girón, with the highlights being Gundlach’s Hawk, Northern Crested Caracara, Cuban Pygmy Owl, Cuban Trogon, and the Red-shouldered and Tawny-shouldered Blackbirds.

Day 4 (March 1)
I counted a total of 43 species this day, the quantity being meaningless when compared to the quality. The morning began in a marsh in Zapata where we had outstanding views of the rare Zapata Wren and equally elusive Zapata Sparrow. Also seen were Fernandina's Flicker, White-crowned Pigeon, and the Zanaida and White-winged Doves.

The afternoon was spent in a deciduous wooded area searching successfully for owls: Cuban Pygmy Owl, Stygian Owl and the Cuban Screech Owl (Bare-legged Owl). Other Cuban species included the Cuban Amazon (Cuban Parrot), Cuban Emerald, Cuban Trogon, Cuban Green Woodpecker, Cuban Vireo, Cuban Crow, Cuban Oriole and Cuban Blackbird. At dusk we spotted a Greater Antillean Nightjar.

Day 5 (March 2)
I counted a total of 42 species this day, again quality triumphed over quantity. Thanks to a very early start, near the town of Bermejas in nearby Cienfuegos province were the four Quail-Doves (Grey-fronted, Key West, Ruddy, and the wonderfully-coloured Blue-headed Quail-Dove). This was followed by outstanding views of the Bee Hummingbird, whose diminutive size alone was worthy of the trip.

Day 6 (March 3)
I counted a total of 33 species this day as much of the day was spent driving half the length of Cuba, from the Bay of Pigs to a remote area in the ranch land of Camagüey province in the southeast of Cuba. We stayed at Hacienda la Belén, a government research farm south of Najasa. The best views were of wetland birds, including Limpkins, Northern Jacana and the two Gallinules.

Day 7 (March 4)
During walks in the woods of Hacienda la Belén, I counted a total of 42 species. There were good looks at the Cuban Palm Crow (much less common than the Cuban Crow) and the Cuban Parakeet. Giant Kingbird, Loggerhead Kingbird, La Sagra’s Flycatcher, Red-legged Thrush and Western Spindalis (all being common throughout the trip) numbered among the other Caribbean specialties. And a Western Barn Owl made an evening appearance.

Day 8 (March 5)
I counted a total of 36 species this day. After an early morning walk in the Hacienda searching for warblers and other north-bound songbirds, much of the day was spent driving to the Cayo Coco, an island on the north shore. It was the only day of rain during the trip, which explains the few birds. But we did spot an Eastern Meadowlark in Jimaguayú and the usual water-related birds when driving the causeway between the main island and Cayo Coco (e.g., Magnificent Frigatebird). A Black-faced Grassquit greeted me as I checked into my room.

Day 9 (March 6)
I counted a total of 48 species this day, mainly water-related, with quality being significant. Most important were the Oriente Warbler and the northern subspecies of the Zapata Sparrow. Other usual Caribbean specialties included Smooth-billed Ani, Antillean Palm Swift, Cuban (Crescent-eyed) Pewee, Bahamian Mockingbird, and Cuban Gnatcatcher.

Day 10 (March 7)
I counted a mere 22 species on a day spent driving from Cayo Coco to Havana, notably warblers. We arrived in Havana sufficiently early to hit a cigar store (first I saw in Cuba, and obviously out of the price range of most Cubans) and a walk through old Havana. The night was spent at Hotel Presidente, a grand hotel built in 1928 (which like much in Cuba, needs its physical structure updated as well as its food and other services upgraded).

Day 11 (March 8)
I flew out early in the morning. Instead of flying directly between Toronto and Havana on Air Canada, I took Copa Airlines instead, which is Panama’s airline. Though it required me to change planes in Panama, it was cheaper than Air Canada. And I got to stop over in Panama for a few days. I did, and in five days saw 226 Panamian species (a story for another day).

My only hassle when leaving Cuba was my single piece of luggage was slightly over the 23 kg limit per bag, by about 2 kilos. I was overweight because I had packed my camera in my luggage rather than in my backpack, to avoid the previous customs hassles. Because I was allowed two pieces of luggage, I was told to purchase a second piece of luggage to move the extra few kilos. Of course, there was no place to buy luggage. I didn’t dare open my suitcase to rearrange things, for fear of exposing my camera and computer gear, thus being searched again and missing my plane. So I unhappily paid an overweight fine of $50 for the two kilos.

The following is my list of 145 birds seen while in Cuba.

Helmeted Guineafowl
Blue-winged Teal
Northern Shoveler
Ring-necked Duck
Lesser Scaup
Red-breasted Merganser
Ruddy Duck
American Flamingo
Wood Stork
American White Ibis
Glossy Ibis
Roseate Spoonbill
Black-crowned Night-Heron
Green Heron
Western Cattle Egret
Great Blue Heron
Great Egret
Reddish Egret
Tricolored Heron
Little Blue Heron
Snowy Egret
American White Pelican
Brown Pelican
Magnificent Frigatebird
Neotropic Cormorant
Double-crested Cormorant
Anhinga
Turkey Vulture
Western Osprey
Snail Kite
Gundlach's Hawk
Cuban Black Hawk
Broad-winged Hawk
Red-tailed Hawk
Northern Crested Caracara
American Kestrel
Clapper Rail
Purple Gallinule
Common Gallinule
American Coot
Limpkin
Black-necked Stilt
Grey (Black-bellied) Plover
Wilson's Plover
Killdeer
Northern Jacana
Short-billed Dowitcher
Greater Yellowlegs
Lesser Yellowlegs
Willet
Ruddy Turnstone
Red Knot
Least Sandpiper
Laughing Gull
Great Black-backed Gull
American Herring Gull
Lesser Black-backed Gull
Caspian Tern
Royal Tern
Forster's Tern
Common (Rock) Pigeon
White-crowned Pigeon
Scaly-naped Pigeon
Plain Pigeon
Eurasian Collared-Dove
Mourning Dove
Zenaida Dove
White-winged Dove
Common Ground-Dove
Grey-fronted Quail-Dove
Key West Quail-Dove
Ruddy Quail-Dove
Blue-headed Quail-Dove
Cuban Parakeet
Cuban Amazon
Smooth-billed Ani
Great Lizard Cuckoo
Western Barn Owl
Bare-legged Owl
Cuban Pygmy Owl
Stygian Owl
Greater Antillean Nightjar
Antillean Palm Swift
Cuban Emerald
Bee Hummingbird
Cuban Trogon
Belted Kingfisher
Cuban Tody
West Indian Woodpecker
Yellow-bellied Sapsucker
Cuban Green Woodpecker
Northern Flicker
Fernandina's Flicker
Crescent-eyed (Cuban) Pewee
Giant Kingbird
Loggerhead Kingbird
La Sagra's Flycatcher
White-eyed Vireo
Thick-billed Vireo
Cuban Vireo
Black-whiskered Vireo
Cuban Palm Crow
Cuban Crow
Cuban Martin
Cave Swallow
Zapata Wren
Blue-gray Gnatcatcher
Cuban Gnatcatcher
Gray Catbird
Northern Mockingbird
Bahama Mockingbird
Cuban Solitaire
Red-legged Thrush
House Sparrow
Ovenbird
Louisiana Waterthrush
Black-and-white Warbler
Common Yellowthroat
American Redstart
Cape May Warbler
Northern Parula
Magnolia Warbler
American Yellow Warbler
Black-throated Blue Warbler
Palm Warbler
Olive-capped Warbler
Yellow-throated Warbler
Prairie Warbler
Black-throated Green Warbler
Yellow-headed Warbler
Oriente Warbler
Cuban Oriole
Cuban Blackbird
Red-shouldered Blackbird
Tawny-shouldered Blackbird
Greater Antillean Grackle
Eastern Meadowlark
Zapata Sparrow
Red-legged Honeycreeper
Cuban Bullfinch
Cuban Grassquit
Yellow-faced Grassquit
Black-faced Grassquit
Western (Stripe-headed) Spindalis
Indigo Bunting

[DMW]

Jos, if you think that most of the security pantomime we get in most western airports does anything to prevent planes getting blown-up, I think you are mistaken.

Last month flying out of London, I had my packs of contact lenses in a clear plastic container, which I placed in a tray. The woman told me this had to be in a plastic bag. So I put the clear plastic container in a clear plastic bag, and that made it OK. This is the level of stupidity which allegedly protects us from terrorists.

The only time in many dozens of flights I have ever felt that security was for real rather than for show was flying out of Tel Aviv. The difference between the security people there (who were polite but very thorough) and anywhere else was night and day.

As for the US, I too have had wierd reactions, and been hauled out of the line for questioning and chemical testing, for no apparent reason. Plus, of course, the customary rudeness of immigration staff there. I think if US passport holders were treated in the same way as foreign travellers on entry to the US, there would be a second revolution.

Finally, getting slightly back on topic, I read on climbing forum that rock climbing has recently been banned in Cuba. Apparently the official reason is that foreign rock climbers might be terrorists planning to explode bombs on the crags. Seems like government paranoia in Cuba is ramping-up.

[Jos Stratford]

Originally Posted by DMW

Jos, if you think that most of the security pantomime we get in most western airports does anything to prevent planes getting blown-up, I think you are mistaken.

Quite possibly so, but personally I don't see a big problem in persons getting hauled out of line for having blades in their baggage, even if they might simply be items that the traveller had forgotten to put into checked baggage, likewise having to remove shoes and x-ray them, etc, etc. If part of the pantomine has some effect, then I can just about manage to sit through the rest

[Peewit]

Originally Posted by Jos Stratford

I would feel it rather more upsetting to find myself upon a plane that is disintegrating following an explosion.

If adding a layer of security at an airport simply means I spend an extra few minutes in a queue gazing at armed police, so be it.


Also no big deal to an hour of searching by Cuban immigration - my trip to the US last year involved more than this in questioning by the U.S. immigration/customs folk (a whole bunch of weird questions in Helsinki prior to boarding the plane, less on arrival in Chicago, but a car search and separation of myself and companion for questioning on re-entry into the US from Canada. All were polite, so if that's the system, also so be it)

Hi Jos

Sorry, just noticed your answer, so I have highjacked this thread a little with this answer.

I understand what you are saying, and yes, there needs to be a lot of security these days in all forms of major travel, airports, trian stations etc..so we can all live our lives in peace and harmony - if that is possible.

In the UK, we have our hand luggage checked (OH and I take all our optics in our hand luggage)...it makes me think that the situation in Cuba is a totally different level to what we require in the UK, and most other countries.

Talking about airport safety......years ago (in the late 70's) when I travelled to South Africa by South African Airways, (South African Airways was not allowed to travel across the UK land in the late 70's at all and had to skirt around the coasts instead)....a plane was bombed just before/after my plane. My family thought it was me, so I have had a brush by terrorists myself and it is no laughing matter.

Yes, I have had a near miss myself in my late teens...with a message of horror from my family thinking it was me

Not nice at all.

Regards
Kathy
x

[Peewit]

Originally Posted by BirdingDoc

I agree with your comments, Maroon Jay, that my equipment would indicate I was a rather poorly-equipped spy. I felt sorry for the customs officer who was tasked with assembling my electronic gear — his ignorance of common electronic devices was evident when he had no idea how to use the two white cables to connect my MacBook Pro to my iPod Touch (with its numerous birding apps) and to the card reader for the CF card from my camera, let alone what the gears purpose was. He had no idea what was the purpose of my computer and iPod apps. When I attempted to help him with the connections, he firmly pushed my hands away; I was rather concerned that he was going to break a connector.

In response to your query about other problems and dangers, apart from Big Brother, I felt quite safe. Cuba is indeed a relatively crime-free country, perhaps due in part to the surveillance. And because I was in the hands of Cubatur (the government’s tour operator) with a full-time guide who parroted the official government viewpoint, I had no concerns about anything untoward happening. And, being in the hands of the Cuban government, I used the occasion to discuss the politics of Cuba, impishly explaining parts of history that are disallowed in Cuba.

Cuba’s tourism industry is suffering because visitors do not come back to the island, for good reason. Canadians are likely their biggest source of tourists, and here in Canada they do not have a good reputation; hence, they are directing their advertising to Russians and east Europeans who are less demanding in their requirements for an all-inclusive vacation. While the people are wonderful, Cuba suffers from poor service, poorly-functioning facilities, and limited activities and entertainment. In all places I visited throughout the country, the food was at best mediocre, and unless you enjoy drinking cheap Cuban rum with lousy Cuban cola, there were few niceties to be found. Shopping is a non-experience — ever since Castro nationalized all of Cuba’s 58,000 retail operations in 1968 in his “Great Revolutionary Offensive”, not only have consumer goods disappeared but so have the stores.

It is important to note that I did not merely stay in the vacation resorts on the north coast of the island, but travelled around to places which tourists do not normally visit. My purpose for the trip was to see birds, not to sit on a beach. From that viewpoint, the trip was successful.

Trip description:

Day 1 (February 27)
Arrived late in the evening and after the lengthy process of clearing customs and long wait to exchange money into CUC (Cuba’s convertible currency, as they don’t accept dollars or Euros), had dinner at a restaurant on the outskirts of Havana and drove to the Hotel Soaroa, southwest of Havana. Apart from a Killdeer which struck the vehicle, no birds were encountered. But I did fall in love with all the 1950’s era cars which are on the roads.

Day 2 (February 28)
I counted a total of 56 species this day. We began birding near the beautiful caves where Che Guevera hid, at Cuevas de los Portales in La Güira National Park in Pinar del Rio province (note that Cuba recently redistributed its provinces, so older publications will differ in their locations). Here we encountered Arturo Kirkconnell, who authored Field Guide to the Birds of Cuba and who kindly signed out books. The special birds here were the Cuban Solitaire, Cuban Bullfinch, Cuban Tody, and the West Indian and Cuban Green Woodpeckers.

Late morning walks near San Diego de los Baños, also in Pinar del Rio, yielded the Great Lizard Cuckoo, and the Cuban and Yellow-faced Grassquits. South of Havana in Artemisa province, we saw waterfowl and wading birds (no shorebirds) and many Snail Kites. That evening we drove to Playa Girón, located on the infamous Bay of Pigs (Bahía de los Cochinos) in Matanzas province on Cuba’s south coast.

Day 3 (February 29)
I counted a total of 59 species this day. The morning was spent on the salt marshes (La Salinas) on the east side of the Bay, in Zapata National Park (Parque Nacional Ciénaga de Zapata). There was a superb collection of avifauna including American Flamingo, Roseate Spoonbill, Wood Stork, four Herons (Green, Great Blue, Tricoloured and Little), both Pelicans (American White and Brown), Cuban Black Hawk, Cuban subspecies of American Kestrel, Clapper Rail, and five shorebirds (Black-bellied Plover, Short-billed Dowitcher, Willet and both Yellowlegs).

The afternoon was spent in a wooded area closer to Playa Girón, with the highlights being Gundlach’s Hawk, Northern Crested Caracara, Cuban Pygmy Owl, Cuban Trogon, and the Red-shouldered and Tawny-shouldered Blackbirds.

Day 4 (March 1)
I counted a total of 43 species this day, the quantity being meaningless when compared to the quality. The morning began in a marsh in Zapata where we had outstanding views of the rare Zapata Wren and equally elusive Zapata Sparrow. Also seen were Fernandina's Flicker, White-crowned Pigeon, and the Zanaida and White-winged Doves.

The afternoon was spent in a deciduous wooded area searching successfully for owls: Cuban Pygmy Owl, Stygian Owl and the Cuban Screech Owl (Bare-legged Owl). Other Cuban species included the Cuban Amazon (Cuban Parrot), Cuban Emerald, Cuban Trogon, Cuban Green Woodpecker, Cuban Vireo, Cuban Crow, Cuban Oriole and Cuban Blackbird. At dusk we spotted a Greater Antillean Nightjar.

Day 5 (March 2)
I counted a total of 42 species this day, again quality triumphed over quantity. Thanks to a very early start, near the town of Bermejas in nearby Cienfuegos province were the four Quail-Doves (Grey-fronted, Key West, Ruddy, and the wonderfully-coloured Blue-headed Quail-Dove). This was followed by outstanding views of the Bee Hummingbird, whose diminutive size alone was worthy of the trip.

Day 6 (March 3)
I counted a total of 33 species this day as much of the day was spent driving half the length of Cuba, from the Bay of Pigs to a remote area in the ranch land of Camagüey province in the southeast of Cuba. We stayed at Hacienda la Belén, a government research farm south of Najasa. The best views were of wetland birds, including Limpkins, Northern Jacana and the two Gallinules.

Day 7 (March 4)
During walks in the woods of Hacienda la Belén, I counted a total of 42 species. There were good looks at the Cuban Palm Crow (much less common than the Cuban Crow) and the Cuban Parakeet. Giant Kingbird, Loggerhead Kingbird, La Sagra’s Flycatcher, Red-legged Thrush and Western Spindalis (all being common throughout the trip) numbered among the other Caribbean specialties. And a Western Barn Owl made an evening appearance.

Day 8 (March 5)
I counted a total of 36 species this day. After an early morning walk in the Hacienda searching for warblers and other north-bound songbirds, much of the day was spent driving to the Cayo Coco, an island on the north shore. It was the only day of rain during the trip, which explains the few birds. But we did spot an Eastern Meadowlark in Jimaguayú and the usual water-related birds when driving the causeway between the main island and Cayo Coco (e.g., Magnificent Frigatebird). A Black-faced Grassquit greeted me as I checked into my room.

Day 9 (March 6)
I counted a total of 48 species this day, mainly water-related, with quality being significant. Most important were the Oriente Warbler and the northern subspecies of the Zapata Sparrow. Other usual Caribbean specialties included Smooth-billed Ani, Antillean Palm Swift, Cuban (Crescent-eyed) Pewee, Bahamian Mockingbird, and Cuban Gnatcatcher.

Day 10 (March 7)
I counted a mere 22 species on a day spent driving from Cayo Coco to Havana, notably warblers. We arrived in Havana sufficiently early to hit a cigar store (first I saw in Cuba, and obviously out of the price range of most Cubans) and a walk through old Havana. The night was spent at Hotel Presidente, a grand hotel built in 1928 (which like much in Cuba, needs its physical structure updated as well as its food and other services upgraded).

Day 11 (March 8)
I flew out early in the morning. Instead of flying directly between Toronto and Havana on Air Canada, I took Copa Airlines instead, which is Panama’s airline. Though it required me to change planes in Panama, it was cheaper than Air Canada. And I got to stop over in Panama for a few days. I did, and in five days saw 226 Panamian species (a story for another day).

My only hassle when leaving Cuba was my single piece of luggage was slightly over the 23 kg limit per bag, by about 2 kilos. I was overweight because I had packed my camera in my luggage rather than in my backpack, to avoid the previous customs hassles. Because I was allowed two pieces of luggage, I was told to purchase a second piece of luggage to move the extra few kilos. Of course, there was no place to buy luggage. I didn’t dare open my suitcase to rearrange things, for fear of exposing my camera and computer gear, thus being searched again and missing my plane. So I unhappily paid an overweight fine of $50 for the two kilos.

The following is my list of 145 birds seen while in Cuba.

Helmeted Guineafowl
Blue-winged Teal
Northern Shoveler
Ring-necked Duck
Lesser Scaup
Red-breasted Merganser
Ruddy Duck
American Flamingo
Wood Stork
American White Ibis
Glossy Ibis
Roseate Spoonbill
Black-crowned Night-Heron
Green Heron
Western Cattle Egret
Great Blue Heron
Great Egret
Reddish Egret
Tricolored Heron
Little Blue Heron
Snowy Egret
American White Pelican
Brown Pelican
Magnificent Frigatebird
Neotropic Cormorant
Double-crested Cormorant
Anhinga
Turkey Vulture
Western Osprey
Snail Kite
Gundlach's Hawk
Cuban Black Hawk
Broad-winged Hawk
Red-tailed Hawk
Northern Crested Caracara
American Kestrel
Clapper Rail
Purple Gallinule
Common Gallinule
American Coot
Limpkin
Black-necked Stilt
Grey (Black-bellied) Plover
Wilson's Plover
Killdeer
Northern Jacana
Short-billed Dowitcher
Greater Yellowlegs
Lesser Yellowlegs
Willet
Ruddy Turnstone
Red Knot
Least Sandpiper
Laughing Gull
Great Black-backed Gull
American Herring Gull
Lesser Black-backed Gull
Caspian Tern
Royal Tern
Forster's Tern
Common (Rock) Pigeon
White-crowned Pigeon
Scaly-naped Pigeon
Plain Pigeon
Eurasian Collared-Dove
Mourning Dove
Zenaida Dove
White-winged Dove
Common Ground-Dove
Grey-fronted Quail-Dove
Key West Quail-Dove
Ruddy Quail-Dove
Blue-headed Quail-Dove
Cuban Parakeet
Cuban Amazon
Smooth-billed Ani
Great Lizard Cuckoo
Western Barn Owl
Bare-legged Owl
Cuban Pygmy Owl
Stygian Owl
Greater Antillean Nightjar
Antillean Palm Swift
Cuban Emerald
Bee Hummingbird
Cuban Trogon
Belted Kingfisher
Cuban Tody
West Indian Woodpecker
Yellow-bellied Sapsucker
Cuban Green Woodpecker
Northern Flicker
Fernandina's Flicker
Crescent-eyed (Cuban) Pewee
Giant Kingbird
Loggerhead Kingbird
La Sagra's Flycatcher
White-eyed Vireo
Thick-billed Vireo
Cuban Vireo
Black-whiskered Vireo
Cuban Palm Crow
Cuban Crow
Cuban Martin
Cave Swallow
Zapata Wren
Blue-gray Gnatcatcher
Cuban Gnatcatcher
Gray Catbird
Northern Mockingbird
Bahama Mockingbird
Cuban Solitaire
Red-legged Thrush
House Sparrow
Ovenbird
Louisiana Waterthrush
Black-and-white Warbler
Common Yellowthroat
American Redstart
Cape May Warbler
Northern Parula
Magnolia Warbler
American Yellow Warbler
Black-throated Blue Warbler
Palm Warbler
Olive-capped Warbler
Yellow-throated Warbler
Prairie Warbler
Black-throated Green Warbler
Yellow-headed Warbler
Oriente Warbler
Cuban Oriole
Cuban Blackbird
Red-shouldered Blackbird
Tawny-shouldered Blackbird
Greater Antillean Grackle
Eastern Meadowlark
Zapata Sparrow
Red-legged Honeycreeper
Cuban Bullfinch
Cuban Grassquit
Yellow-faced Grassquit
Black-faced Grassquit
Western (Stripe-headed) Spindalis
Indigo Bunting

Hi Birdingdoc

A fab listing of birds that you have there, and a great holiday by all accounts too.

Regards
Kathy
x

[Maroon Jay]

Thanks Charles for the great info. I have filed it away for reference if I decide to go to Cuba next winter. Have not decided for sure yet. First I have to get back to Canada from this trip. Heading into Guatemala tomorrow. Tom

[njlarsen]

A few years ago I wanted to go to a local bird conference here in the Caribbean (not Cuba, but I forgot which other place). We were advised ahead of time to send serial numbers on cameras and optics to the local arranging committee so that they could tell the local duty officers ahead of time to expect a large influx.

Niels

[sarahbn]

I went to Cuba last April on a birding trip There was a fellow that had two cameras several lens one was like mine the 100-400 and the other bigger one was the 500 f4L IS USM. We all had to wait for him since we were traveling together. Our leader had a scope but that or my lens were no big deal. it was the canon 500 lens that gave us a long wait. That was nothing compared to American customs in Miami on our return. Not me but a European couple with some expensive posters or antique maps were taking forever and I was stuck behind them afraid I would miss my connection to Philadelphia.Miami is the worlds worst Airport! I saw alot of tourists in Cuba! I was pleasantly surprised I had no problem with customs in either country! I Just felt uncomfortable with some of the Cuban /Americans in Miami airport they didn't seem to want to direct me to the correct terminal

[Lupus]

This guys whole photographic equipment was confiscated at Cairo airport. http://www.khil.net/blog/

Must be a pretty awkward feeling rediscovering an extinct thought subspecies (last record in 1979) and only having a compact camera to document it

[rollingthunder]

Regardless of what you are carrying - Cuba is still a 'Police State' of sorts. Give somebody a uniform and a badge and probably a gun then watch them perform.

The airports in this country are full of little overbearing shits like this - they know the target 'audience' and still they belittle citizens and humiliate pensioners.......

John F Kennedy said that the way a government treats you at an airport is how they would like to treat you all of the time - and that was back in the 60's.

The only people worth respecting in a uniform is the military preferably our military everybody else is just a friggin' wannabee from the Police to parking wardens to security etc etc.

Rant over -

ATB and good birding -

Laurie

[Dave Williams]

Originally Posted by Peewit

Not a nice feeling at all, and as for taking expensive optic equipment that is shocking..does the holiday insurance cover that at all?

Regards
Kathy
x

Most would have their gear covered on a separate insurance, holiday insurance isn't likely to cover the value of it.
Strangely, my own annual cover which has served me extremely well for many years excludes Cuba, one of only three countries worldwide.
I wondered if that was because it's an American owned company.

[njlarsen]

Originally Posted by Dave Williams

I wondered if that was because it's an American owned company.

Most likely

Niels

[seedyrom]

We went to Cuba in March 2011 and had no problems whatsoever. We put our cameras and scope in our hand luggage but the tripod goes in my suitcase. We also pack all our electrical stuff (leads, adaptors etc) in our hand luggage. Strangely enough, we went to Spain last month and my husband had to empty all his hand luggage and have it searched at, wait for it, Blackpool Airport?! :)