[tony.saw]

Day 1
After some time in Sichuan, our friend Ian had to return to the UK, so my wife and I decided to head for Lijiang in Yunnan Province, China and see if we could find Biet’s Laughingthrush in the surrounding areas. We flew into Lijiang and were met by Jerry Zhao, a local English speaking guide, although a non-birder, and a driver. We headed to our hotel in the old town to relax and plan the next three days.
We had heard that the laugher had been found in the nearby Muli County and had been told that it could be in the vicinity of Wei ping luo No.2 village, so after being picked up at 6:15 the next morning, we headed for the village. It was after about 40 minutes drive that we arrived in the centre of a small Chinese village. We had ignored the birds that we had seen – our focus was on the Laugher! What to do next however. Jerry got out to ask a local if he knew anything about the birds and, by chance, the second man he spoke to took us into his large garden. The obligatory large dog was, fortunately, chained up and just beyond it was two bird cages. We casually (!) strolled over, ignoring the dog which was going crazy, and peered in. Each cage held a Biet’s Laughingthrush! We enquired as to where he got them from and he explained that he had caught them in the nearby wooded hills. Excitement rose, then Jerry explained that the man claimed there were none left in the vicinity and we would have to go to the rhododendron reserve over the other side of the hills. No problem, apart from the state of some of the roads! We noticed that the birds were calling to each other, so recorded the calls on a Dictaphone. Couldn’t be better.

We headed off towards the reserve, bumping up and down on the unmade roads. We stopped occasionally to play the calls, but got no response, and finally ended up at the reserve. We wandered off down one of the trails, listening for calls etc, but got nothing. There were a few other birds around, but no Biet’s. After a couple of hours we headed back to the ‘centre’ and spoke to the locals, playing them the calls. “Ah, you should have been here earlier! They were just behind the centre.” By this time, it was 12:00 and getting hot so we decided to head back to Lijiang and resolved to head out earlier the next morning. We stopped at a small local restaurant on the way back for a meal and discovered a Biet’s Laugher in a cage. Again, we recorded some song – with the sound of our chicken being prepared for lunch in the background! The family had brought the bird because they liked its song. They offered it to us for 500 RMB (about £50). We turned down their offer – would it be ethical to buy and release it, then tick it as a wild bird! Jerry, meanwhile, had rung a friend at another nearby village. Yes, he knew of the bird and could even arrange someone to trap one for us. I don’t think his friend had quite grasped the idea of birdwatching!

[tony.saw]

Day 2
The next morning, we headed off from the hotel at 5:30 (it gets light just after 6:00). We had decided to head for Jerry’s friend’s village at least to talk to the people there, if not to trap one. The journey went smoothly on the new road built through the hills and we turned off on an unmade road to the village. The driver suddenly stopped at a large pile of gravel blocking the road, with others ahead. Jerry’s friend had forgotten to tell him that the next two days they were relaying the road and the way was blocked. It was possible to get to the village by another way, but it would take a few hours. After a short discussion, Jerry mentioned a research station for botanists set up between local scientists and Edinburgh University. They were studding rhododendrons, which appeared to be a habitat for the laugher. It was nearby and there was a small lake there – Wenhai Lake. Right, off we go.

The road deteriorated, but we eventually arrived at an entrance. The area was fenced and the road ran down the side of the fence. We got out of the car and walked down the road. Again there were a few birds around, but no sign of Biet’s. Then, suddenly came the sound of a Laugher from the other side of the fence. Frantic activity ensued as we tried to find it. We got brief glimpses through the trees and undergrowth, but nothing good enough to identify the Laugher. We tried playing the previously taped calls, but there was no response. Was it or wasn’t it? We continued down the road with no further sign and came out near the lake. There were trees near the lake and we headed in. The unmistakable shape of a laughingthrush was spotted in the trees. We crept over so that we could see a pair and recognised the sound – Elliot’s Laughingthrush! Probably the most common on our trip! Other birds were about, including a Great Spotted Woodpecker. It was now getting hot and bird activity was dying down, so we decided to head back to Lijiang, having lunch on the way. Had we seen the bird – we decided that we could not tick it, so had one morning left.

[tony.saw]

Day 3
After long discussion over a beer in Lijiang, we decided on a plan. We debated buying and releasing, trapping, taking a captive bird out with us and other alternatives. We decided that the best idea was to see the trapper again and get more information from him. If he was agreeable, do we take him with us in the car – although this might lead to more trapping. We left Lijiang in order to get to his house at about 7:00, we thought he should be up by then. Arriving at the house, we went into the garden, his two birds singing away in the early morning sunshine. His wife was up and called out to him. Judging from the number of empty bottles around, a good night had been had! He finally emerged, not looking great. After a number of hacking coughs and spitting, a cigarette was lit and we began to talk over our position. The trapper said that there were many more birds present a few years ago – not surprising if he was trapping them! He got between 300 – 400 RMB per bird, so the restaurant was offering their one at a reasonable price(?). He had had his male bird for a year and the female had flown in recently in answer to the trapped bird’s calls and he had caught it. He thought it was rare for the birds to answer to tape, he had tried it to little effect. He suggested that we headed back to the rhododendron reserve to see one “It’s the best place!” We agreed and decided against asking him to come – he was probably reluctant anyway. On the way out Jerry said that he thought that the trapper was being economical with the truth and there were still some birds in the area (probably!).

We headed off to the reserve, driving over on a newly laid road. Then, as we rounded a corner, two laughingthrushes were hopping off into the undergrowth. Cries of stop, stop had no effect, but using ting, ting brought the car to a halt. We quickly looked at the two birds before they disappeared –yes, two Biet’s Laughingthrushes! They vanished into the undergrowth. We carefully got out and played the calls, but there was no response – perhaps the trapper was right about that anyway. We kept looking and saw the two birds briefly higher up the hill. We walked round, up the road, hoping to head them off, but they stayed in front of us, continually on the move until they flew off over the hill. Great rejoicing all round, even the driver joined in, probably as there were no more early starts! We decided to continue to the reserve to see what was around. On arrival, the locals again said that the Laughers had been heard behind the accommodation huts, so we headed off, much more relaxed this time! However, there was again no sign of the Laughers, although a Streak-breasted Scimitar Babbler was some compensation. After a late breakfast of buns and boiled egg, we decided to head back and see if the two Laughers from earlier in the morning had reappeared in the same area. A steady drive back to the small clearing followed and we passed a number of small vehicles heading up the hill. Just as we arrived at the clearing, we could see a couple of birds a little way up the hill, perhaps a chance for a photograph. Unfortunately, just at that moment, a somewhat loud tractor type vehicle appeared and sent the birds flying. We tried to follow them up the hill, but with little success. Oh well, we had seen them anyway. A jolly party made its way back to a local Naxi hotpot restaurant for lunch, this time with a few celebratory beers!

We had been helped by the enthusiasm of Jerry, who was prepared to make every effort to help us see the birds and we would be happy to recommend him, even just as a tour guide. He can be contacted at zxp2913atyahoo.com.cn. Our travel arrangements and initial contact with Jerry had been arranged by Tang Jun of Chinatibettravel.net. He had arranged our travels throughout Sichuan, where we had a great time, with no problems. He can be contacted via the web site and I would have no problem in recommending him. We have previously used TJ to travel through Tibet and surrounding areas.

[tony.saw]

A few photos from the area. The picture of the Elliot's is actually from Foping.

[DMW]

Very interesting report - thanks for posting.

[MKinHK]

Depressing/alarming to hear about so many Biet's in cages.