[Tav94]

I have a Canon 400D and a 400f5.6L what is the best type of metering to use for flight shots.

[Keith Reeder]

I'm not really "addicted" to flight shots, so the specialists might have a different approach, but I use Spot for flight shots on my 30D, which is not too different from Partial on the 400D.

Works just fine for me.

[postcardcv]

I'm with Keith on this one I use partial metering on my 350D for flight shots. I also select the central focusing point only and AI Servo focus...

[mjmw]

If I am shooting against a changing background, for example panning from sky to trees to sky, then I take a reading off blue sky or grass and set the exposure manually. This means that you don't have to worry about the meter changing the exposure (in an auto mode such as AV or TV) when your subject moves from light to dark backgrounds - you are still exposing the subject correctly. This relies on constant lighting or regular changes to the set exposure.

Otherwise against a single background (such as just sky or just trees) I stick with my normal metering mode (evaluative) and dial in compensation depending on the subject-background mix.

Using partial or spot metering is equally valid and I sometimes use this for really tricky subjects like Swans, as long as you keep the subject big and center enough in the frame to cover the metering area.

[Tav94]

Thanks for the info i will have a play with both of those settings,i have tried a few flight shots and i used the sports mode and they seemed to be ok.

[mike from ebbw]

i have always used evaluative just from the fear of burning out the sky etc.i usually use aperture priority at f8 with up to 4/3rds + compensation.i have been experimenting with sports mode lately with some decent results.

[gordon g]

Originally Posted by mw_aurora

If I am shooting against a changing background, for example panning from sky to trees to sky, then I take a reading off blue sky or grass and set the exposure manually. This means that you don't have to worry about the meter changing the exposure (in an auto mode such as AV or TV) when your subject moves from light to dark backgrounds - you are still exposing the subject correctly. This relies on constant lighting or regular changes to the set exposure.

Otherwise against a single background (such as just sky or just trees) I stick with my normal metering mode (evaluative) and dial in compensation depending on the subject-background mix.

Using partial or spot metering is equally valid and I sometimes use this for really tricky subjects like Swans, as long as you keep the subject big and center enough in the frame to cover the metering area.

My thoughts exactly! Using exposure compensation can be tricky with very dark or light birds in flight, and there often isnt the oppurtunity to bracket. In these circumstances estimating the correct exposure from grass concrete etc in similar light and locking it manually seems to work best.

[Roy C]

Originally Posted by postcardcv

I'm with Keith on this one I use partial metering on my 350D for flight shots. I also select the central focusing point only and AI Servo focus...

I use precisely the same set-up as this for flight shots.

[Tav94]

Originally Posted by Roy C

I use precisely the same set-up as this for flight shots.

THanks for that Roy, might pop out later and give it a go allthe best Chris.

[mothman]

Originally Posted by Roy C

I use precisely the same set-up as this for flight shots.

Me too.

[Duke Leto]

If its against sky then spot metering and possibly an extra stop or 2, if its against trees / buildings normal matrix metering on a Nikon seems to work
Steve

[mothman]

Originally Posted by Duke Leto

If its against sky then spot metering and possibly an extra stop or 2, if its against trees / buildings normal matrix metering on a Nikon seems to work
Steve

Unfortunately Steve spot metering has been replaced with partial metering by Canon,
it is a similar idea but not as good because the metering area is too big.

[mjmw]

Originally Posted by mothman

Unfortunately Steve spot metering has been replaced with partial metering by Canon,
it is a similar idea but not as good because the metering area is too big.

They kept spot metering on the 1 series bodies and have it on the 30D and 5D.

I guess they didn't add it to the earlier and entry DSLR models to keep costs down and have extra 'easy' features to add to newer/higher spec models to encourage people to upgrade.

[IanF]

I'm using the Canon 20D. Aperture priority, AI servo, partial metering - central focus point selected and burst 'multiple shot' mode when panning. If it's a darker bird against the sky then usually with EV compensation as well - but none at all for the likes of gulls and terns.

Shooting in RAW can help with exposure inaccuracies though that has to be weighed against fewer shots in burst mode.

[hollis_f]

Originally Posted by IanF

I'm using the Canon 20D. Aperture priority, AI focus, partial metering - central focus point selected and burst 'multiple shot' mode when panning.

Hi Ian,

I'm interested in the fact that you use AI Focus, rather than AI Servo. In the past I've found that AIF seemed to take far too long to realise that the subject was moving, resulting in a higher proportion of fuzzies.

When taking a flight shot do you keep the shutter half-depressed and follow the bird for a couple of seconds before shooting?

[IanF]

Originally Posted by hollis_f

Hi Ian,

I'm interested in the fact that you use AI Focus, rather than AI Servo. In the past I've found that AIF seemed to take far too long to realise that the subject was moving, resulting in a higher proportion of fuzzies.

When taking a flight shot do you keep the shutter half-depressed and follow the bird for a couple of seconds before shooting?

Well spotted

You're right it should read 'AI Servo'. Servo nicely tracks the bird as long as it's not greatly moving towards or away from the camera.

I've amended my original post so as not to be misleading.

As regards half depressing the shutter and tracking for a few seconds - yes again. You have to depress the shutter slightly in order to activate the autofocus.

[Tav94]

Had a go using A1 servo and Partiel meetering and ISO 800 got a few keepers this time.

[IanF]

Not bad at all. Exposure is very good. Birds flying towards you though are very difficult as the autofocus can't keep up. It's far easier with birds passing across in front - gulls flying up rivers into the wind are easier ones to practice on.

[mike from ebbw]

here is some examples of my attempts at flight shots.the kite was taken at f8 A1 autofocus.the gull was taken on programme sports mode,A1 servo autofocus,aperture and shutter speed set by camera.both taken with my 300d.i would definitly say that A1 servo is the better mode for flight shots.i didnt get many keepers of the kites but nearly all the gull shots came out ok.

[gmax]

Originally Posted by mike from ebbw

here is some examples of my attempts at flight shots.the kite was taken at f8 A1 autofocus.the gull was taken on programme sports mode,A1 servo autofocus,aperture and shutter speed set by camera.both taken with my 300d.i would definitly say that A1 servo is the better mode for flight shots.i didnt get many keepers of the kites but nearly all the gull shots came out ok.

Good shots Mike, I think exposure is quite correct

[Roy C]

Originally Posted by Tav94

Had a go using A1 servo and Partiel meetering and ISO 800 got a few keepers this time.

Nice one Chris, practice makes perfect - after all you have what is widely considered to be the best 'birds in flight' lens that Canon make.

[Tav94]

Originally Posted by Roy C

Nice one Chris, practice makes perfect - after all you have what is widely considered to be the best 'birds in flight' lens that Canon make.

Thanks for all the info, had a few shots of gulls in the last two days.Had some success her is a Med gull i got today the light was poor had to use ISO of 800.

[mike from ebbw]

thats a nice shot tav.i love the translucent feathers on gulls.makes them angel like.

[Tav94]

Originally Posted by Roy C

Nice one Chris, practice makes perfect - after all you have what is widely considered to be the best 'birds in flight' lens that Canon make.

Thanks for the comments what are your views on a 1.4 times kenco converter on this lens for flight shot use.

[Roy C]

Originally Posted by Tav94

Thanks for the comments what are your views on a 1.4 times kenco converter on this lens for flight shot use.

I use this lens with a Canon 1.4 tc (with pins taped - to acheive af) but find that af is to slow for flight shots. For near static birds like waders I use the combo on a tripod and get great results.
There is another thread going on at the moment which suggest that the new Kenko 1.5x DG AF Teleconverter costing around £60 retains af without taping the pins. It is also faster to af than the Canon - not sure that image quality would be up to the Canon but the sample I have seen looks ok. Remember that this combo would give 960mm on a 1.6 crop camera so for handheld flight shots you will need good light and a steady hand.