[stanton21]

I live in north west indiana and we finnaly got out of winter..I moved from the city to the country and have lots of land..Last year i started to get into hummers and feeding them with o.k resultes..Me and the kid like watching them visit the feeder..Question is...When do i start putting out my early feeder out for them in this area?..I am currently digging up a 50 by 50 area in the yard just for hummer plants and awalk around garden..

Any info with plants and set up would be great for me and the birds for my area...

THANKS

Stanton

[LindaD]

Stanton: Check out this map: http://www.hummingbirds.net/map.html. As you can see, they are coming. Put out a feeder when you start seeing birds approaching your area, at least a week before they are expected in your area.

Enjoy.

Linda

[jcwings]

It looks like the first part of April. At least for Ruby-throated Hummer. If you're lucky, maybe it's not too early sometime next week. See this link:

http://www.hummingbirds.net/2006maps.html

[stanton21]

Thanks Alot for answering that..I have my feeders cleaned up and ready to hang next week..I see menards has a box of humkmer food and its red,is this any good or should stick with my home brew of 1 to 2 mix of suger and water???

Thanks

Stanton

[Robert / Seattle]

Originally Posted by stanton21

Thanks Alot for answering that..I have my feeders cleaned up and ready to hang next week..I see menards has a box of humkmer food and its red,is this any good or should stick with my home brew of 1 to 2 mix of suger and water???

Thanks

Stanton

Whoa! It should be 1 to 4, sugar to water. And white granulated sugar at that, never brown or raw (the higher mollases content can kill a hummer). 1 to 2 is much too strong; the 1 to 4 ratio mimicks nectar available to the hummers in their natural foragings. And it's best to avoid the red powder variety available at pet and bird feeding outlets; the red color is achieved with a dye additive that does not do a wild hummer any good. All that is necessary for your clear home-made nectar is to use a red feeder.

Recipe: Bring 4 parts water to boil, add 1 part granulated white sugar, slowly stir to combine, let simmer/rest for 5 minutes. Upon cooling, store in fridge and replenish feeders weekly (at least) or as needed.

Regarding plants, any plant with a tube or trumpet-like flower; Azalea, rhododendron, fuscia, etc. And remember, red fowers attract best of all.

[Luiz]

Robert, do you have red Grevílleas in US? It's very good to attract them.

[Robert / Seattle]

Originally Posted by Luiz

Robert, do you have red Grevílleas in US? It's very good to attract them.

Luiz,

Yes (I'm reasonably sure!). Several cultivars seem to be available in the U.S. But, this is a large country with diverse habitats -- I live in Seattle, a rather moderate climatic area, but our hummingbird enthusiast lives in northwest Indiana, an area with a more "continental climate" characterized by seasonal extremes. Nonetheless, the following link may be helpful for would-be "humingbird gardeners":

http://www.answers.com/topic/grevillea-2

[LindaD]

Agree that the ratio should be 1 part sugar to 4 parts water. If you don't have many red flowers around now (yes, it IS early spring), tie a big red bow on the feeder. Red will attract them and a red bow is a good cheap, early spring attractant.

Linda

[stanton21]

Thanks for the info..I was making it too strong..They seemed to love it..and i changed the water every2/3 days or when i can see a haze in it...It gets hot in the shad around here..

Thanks

[LindaD]

Good! As for plants: We have a patch of buddelia, commonly called butterfly bush which is good to attract not only butterflies but hummers. Beware, it does get very large and needs to be cut down every year to about a foot tall to keep it blooming. Not sure if it's reliably hardy in your area. We also have a similar plant that is native here called clethra anifolia that has a white flower with a nice scent that the hummers like.

Others that are good are lobelia (red perennial types). We also get a lot of hummers at our native honeysuckle. Try to get the natives as the Japanese are very invasive and will spread. The honeysuckle could be worked into an arbor where you and your kid could sit and watch them. And another vine that could be used is the native trumpet flower. It has orange tubular flowers, but the hummers seem to like them.

From our travels we've seen wonderful gardens of canna lilys that have hummers buzzing around. The nice thing about cannas is that they come in many different heights today from about 2 feet high to about 6 feet high. But the bulbs will have to be dug up every year and stored in an area that doesn't freeze for the winter. Then they can be replanted in the spring. They do multiply so you can start with a few and gradually increase the number.

Don't forget monarda. It's a member of the mint family and has a flower bunch at the top that has a lot of tubular red (or possibly lavendar in some species) flowers. The hummers will go from one flower to another in the circle of flowers. We actually have the lavendar type in our meadow and love to watch bees and hummers at them.

Try getting a few books from the library. There are many that are geared to planting hummingbird gardens and some of the seed companies will provide a mix of plants that attract hummingbirds and butterflies. Don't forget your local gardening center either. Many will gladly provide plans for a hummingbird garden along with the plants.

Enjoy!

Linda

[J Huff]

Hi Stanton,

The following are the basics of a good hummingbird garden:


Use trees and shrubs to supplement the hummingbird flowers in your garden. The hummers will benefit from the shade, perching spots and nesting sites more than the trees and shrubs shorter blooming cycle.


Perennials make perfect hummingbird flowers and should be used whenever possible. They will grow back year after year. Studies have shown that hummingbirds will return to the same feeding places from year to year and perennials will provide a consistent food source.


Place hummingbird flowers of like color in large groups instead of single plants scattered around. Since hummingbirds are attracted to color, it will be easier to catch their attention with a large, single patch of color.


Use a variety of hummingbird flowers that will bloom at different times. This will insure that nectar is available throughout the spring and summer.


Plant your gardens as early as possible to insure that hummingbird flowers are available when hummers arrive in your area. You can save money if you grow your own plants from seed. And if you start them early indoors, they will bloom sooner when planted outside.


If you don't have much space, consider using hanging baskets, flower boxes or patio planters.


Minimize the use of insecticides. Nectar is only part of a hummingbird’s diet. They also enjoy feeding on tiny flying insects and spiders.



A shallow birdbath or mister will be a major attraction for hummingbirds. They get all of the water they need from nectar, but hummers love a daily bath. If you use a shallow birdbath, place it in the hummingbird garden near a shrub, preferably in the shade. If you use a mister, place it near broad-leafed plants. Hummers will bathe in the pools of water that collect on the leaves (this is especially fun to watch).


Make sure you set up a place for hummingbird viewing. Maybe a spot in the shade (a respectful distance away) to quietly enjoy the fruits of your labor.

John

http://www.a-home-for-wild-birds.com...d-flowers.html

[humminbird]

Originally Posted by J Huff

Hi Stanton,

The following are the basics of a good hummingbird garden:


Use trees and shrubs to supplement the hummingbird flowers in your garden. The hummers will benefit from the shade, perching spots and nesting sites more than the trees and shrubs shorter blooming cycle.


Perennials make perfect hummingbird flowers and should be used whenever possible. They will grow back year after year. Studies have shown that hummingbirds will return to the same feeding places from year to year and perennials will provide a consistent food source.


Place hummingbird flowers of like color in large groups instead of single plants scattered around. Since hummingbirds are attracted to color, it will be easier to catch their attention with a large, single patch of color.


Use a variety of hummingbird flowers that will bloom at different times. This will insure that nectar is available throughout the spring and summer.


Plant your gardens as early as possible to insure that hummingbird flowers are available when hummers arrive in your area. You can save money if you grow your own plants from seed. And if you start them early indoors, they will bloom sooner when planted outside.


If you don't have much space, consider using hanging baskets, flower boxes or patio planters.


Minimize the use of insecticides. Nectar is only part of a hummingbird’s diet. They also enjoy feeding on tiny flying insects and spiders.



A shallow birdbath or mister will be a major attraction for hummingbirds. They get all of the water they need from nectar, but hummers love a daily bath. If you use a shallow birdbath, place it in the hummingbird garden near a shrub, preferably in the shade. If you use a mister, place it near broad-leafed plants. Hummers will bathe in the pools of water that collect on the leaves (this is especially fun to watch).


Make sure you set up a place for hummingbird viewing. Maybe a spot in the shade (a respectful distance away) to quietly enjoy the fruits of your labor.

John

http://www.a-home-for-wild-birds.com...d-flowers.html

Stanton:
You have gotten some great information from others, especially the comments from John above, but since people jumped all over you over the sugar water mix I did want to point out that natural nectar can stray down into the 1:2 mixture and is often much weaker than the 1:4 mixture noted above. While I am glad you reduced your mix to 1:4, I would NOT be convinced that the mix was a serious problem for the birds. I frequently reduce my feeder strength to 1:3 or even stronger when the birds are uder stress and am currently watching two Ruby-throats share a feeder - a very unusual site at this time of year.

Don't stress oveer the concentration of the mix as long as it is close. Enjoy the birds instead!

Mark
Bastrop, TX

[Tz'unun]

Originally Posted by humminbird

Stanton:
You have gotten some great information from others, especially the comments from John above, but since people jumped all over you over the sugar water mix I did want to point out that natural nectar can stray down into the 1:2 mixture and is often much weaker than the 1:4 mixture noted above. While I am glad you reduced your mix to 1:4, I would NOT be convinced that the mix was a serious problem for the birds. I frequently reduce my feeder strength to 1:3 or even stronger when the birds are uder stress and am currently watching two Ruby-throats share a feeder - a very unusual site at this time of year.

Don't stress oveer the concentration of the mix as long as it is close. Enjoy the birds instead!

Mark
Bastrop, TX

Mark's absolutely right, Stanton. Though 2:1 is near the high end of the sugar concentration scale for natural hummingbird nectar, it's not going to kill them as long as they've got another source of water (natural nectar, tree sap, bird bath, lawn sprinkler, etc.). But because water in developed areas is so often contaminated with oil, antifreeze, pesticides, fertilizers, other birds' droppings, etc., it's healthiest to provide hummingbirds with the water they need by making your feeder solution in the 3:1 to 4:1 range for normal conditions or even 5:1 in extremely hot, dry weather. An added bonus is that weaker solutions are less likely to attract bees.

Robert, I wonder how much water is lost from a 4:1 solution by letting it simmer for 5 minutes? I've never tested it, but you could conceivably end up with 3:1 or stronger. Personally, I zap all the sugar plus half the water in the microwave for about 2 minutes to help the sugar dissolve, then add an equal amount of chilled water to bring it to serving temperature. Even this isn't necessary in summer when the tap water is warm enough to dissolve the sugar.

[Robert / Seattle]

(Quote) Robert, I wonder how much water is lost from a 4:1 solution by letting it simmer for 5 minutes? I've never tested it, but you could conceivably end up with 3:1 or stronger. Personally, I zap all the sugar plus half the water in the microwave for about 2 minutes to help the sugar dissolve, then add an equal amount of chilled water to bring it to serving temperature. Even this isn't necessary in summer when the tap water is warm enough to dissolve the sugar.[/quote]


Hi Sherry,

Great question. I make about two to three gallons at a time, so the evaporation during the "simmer" is negligible. Nevertheless, I've always added an extra "spash" of water to the pot to theoretically compensate for the vaporization during simmer. And, it's not technically a simmer -- when adding the sugar to the boiling water, the temperature of the mix falls a bit below the simmer/boiling point, and during the five minute cooking process doesn't quite come back to a boil. The larger volume enables me to stockpile ready solution in the refrigerator for up to 2 to 3 weeks at a time.

I like your idea of a more dilute mix in hotter climates. Water will evaporate from the feeder holes resulting in a stronger concentration in a very short time, and a more dilute mix would compensate for this. Haven't worried too much about this in Seattle where the opposite can actually occur -- i.e., rain seeping into the feeder holes resulting in a more dilute mix!

PS - I checked out your weblink. Very impressive.

[Curtis Croulet]

Here we go again! I don't see the point of boiling, not even to dissolve the sugar. I put sugar and water in a pitcher and shake the whole thing vigorously for a few seconds. The sugar dissolves thoroughly.

[humminbird]

Originally Posted by Curtis Croulet

Here we go again! I don't see the point of boiling, not even to dissolve the sugar. I put sugar and water in a pitcher and shake the whole thing vigorously for a few seconds. The sugar dissolves thoroughly.

Gotta agree with Curtis. Straight out of the tap and stir.

Mark

[Robert / Seattle]

Originally Posted by humminbird

Gotta agree with Curtis. Straight out of the tap and stir.

Mark

The main purpose of boiling is to rid the water of bacteria and other bio-contaminants. As per:

http://www.wildbirdshop.com/Birding/humfeed.html

http://nationalzoo.si.edu/Conservati...tar_recipe.cfm

[Curtis Croulet]

Originally Posted by Robert / Seattle

The main purpose of boiling is to rid the water of bacteria and other bio-contaminants. As per:

http://www.wildbirdshop.com/Birding/humfeed.html

http://nationalzoo.si.edu/Conservati...tar_recipe.cfm

Yes, I know the intent of this. Are you also going to autoclave your storage vessels, feeders and even the hummingbirds' bills? How do you keep the spore-laden air from contaminating the nectar after you've made it? It's futile!

[humminbird]

Originally Posted by Curtis Croulet

Yes, I know the intent of this. Are you also going to autoclave your storage vessels, feeders and even the hummingbirds' bills? How do you keep the spore-laden air from contaminating the nectar after you've made it? It's futile!

Not to mention that mother nature can not sterilize her nectar sources!

[Robert / Seattle]

Originally Posted by Curtis Croulet

Yes, I know the intent of this. Are you also going to autoclave your storage vessels, feeders and even the hummingbirds' bills? How do you keep the spore-laden air from contaminating the nectar after you've made it? It's futile!

The chlorine is also removed in the boiling process. To my knowledge there isn't a whole lot of chlorine in flower nectar.

[Curtis Croulet]

Originally Posted by humminbird

Not to mention that mother nature can not sterilize her nectar sources!

I appreciate that good people are trying to follow a "first do no harm" philosophy, and I applaud that. If it makes one feel more comfortable by boiling, then by all means, do it. I live in a dry climate (lowest June-July rainfall season on record this year), so maybe there are challenges faced by those in humid areas that I don't experience. But I'm still waiting for a scientifically persuasive reason for boiling.

[humminbird]

Originally Posted by Curtis Croulet

I appreciate that good people are trying to follow a "first do no harm" philosophy, and I applaud that. If it makes one feel more comfortable by boiling, then by all means, do it. I live in a dry climate (lowest June-July rainfall season on record this year), so maybe there are challenges faced by those in humid areas that I don't experience. But I'm still waiting for a scientifically persuasive reason for boiling.

Again we agree Curtis

[Robert / Seattle]

Originally Posted by Curtis Croulet

I appreciate that good people are trying to follow a "first do no harm" philosophy, and I applaud that. If it makes one feel more comfortable by boiling, then by all means, do it. I live in a dry climate (lowest June-July rainfall season on record this year), so maybe there are challenges faced by those in humid areas that I don't experience. But I'm still waiting for a scientifically persuasive reason for boiling.

And just how does a drier climate translate into a higher quality (and unchlorinated?) municipal water supply? Simply curious by the reasoning at this point.

[Curtis Croulet]

Originally Posted by Robert / Seattle

And just how does a drier climate translate into a higher quality (and unchlorinated?) municipal water supply? Simply curious by the reasoning at this point.

At the time of my post, only bacteria and "other bio-contaminants" were on the table as reasons to boil. I've had people tell me in other fora that their feeders get moldy after a day or two, was said to be related to their humid climate. It doesn't happen to me, so I'm allowing that an environmental difference might be in play.

About the chlorine: (1) does boiling eliminate it; (2) for the likely short time it persists in the nectar at ambient temperatures, does it cause any harm to the birds? This is the first time chlorine has been brought to my attention as a reason for boiling -- and it wasn't in your original list of reasons, either.

[Robert / Seattle]

Originally Posted by Curtis Croulet

At the time of my post, only bacteria and "other bio-contaminants" were on the table as reasons to boil. I've had people tell me in other fora that their feeders get moldy after a day or two, was said to be related to their humid climate. It doesn't happen to me, so I'm allowing that an environmental difference might be in play.

About the chlorine: (1) does boiling eliminate it; (2) for the likely short time it persists in the nectar at ambient temperatures, does it cause any harm to the birds? This is the first time chlorine has been brought to my attention as a reason for boiling -- and it wasn't in your original list of reasons, either.

The mold fermentation in feeders is reduced if the mixture is more sanitized to begin with (the boiling kills fungus spores common in table sugar).

The chlorine reference was in one of the links I attached to an earlier post.

At this point, I'm beginning to wonder about how much of this dialogue is relevant to the initial post, and how much has to do who gets the last word. Please, feel free to have it.

(Stanton, my apologies. I hope you received the information you desired and could read through a lot of the feather ruffling that ensued).