Paul Chapman
Well-known member
Despite the fact that absolutely none of its content is original, hopefully, this short report will be of interest to those considering whether to undertake a trip to Finland for the usual specialities. Everyone will know that there are a limited number of species on offer and the habitat is vast. As a result, the use of Finnature guides either direct – http://www.finnature.fi/birdwatching-tours-and-excursions/excursions-for-individuals/ – or through one of the tour companies - http://www.finnature.fi/birdwatching-tours-and-excursions/ – is vital.
I went with a tour company. The size of the group – 12 in total – plus a guide travelling from the UK and the Finnature guide was daunting. However, it was rapidly apparent that those on the trip were pretty focussed serious birdwatchers (apart from my wife along for the general experience and a few cute owls!). As a result, none of the usual problems of large groups occurred.
A number of the participants had been carefully considering the trip for a while. So why had individuals waited? The main reasons were – the limited number of potential new birds, the expense of the trip in comparison to that number and the unpredictability of some of the targets. However, at the end of the trip, all were very pleased that they had made the effort and some of the birding experiences were likely to be very high amongst their most memorable of several decades birding.
I do struggle with birding in organised groups. With friends, you can research the sites, discuss the targets, set your own itinerary and maintain some flexibility for anything that proves tricky. On a tour, you have to accept that priorities will differ, the itinerary will be set and you will not know what you are targeting and when! I had seen Pygmy and Ural Owls and Three-toed and Black Woodpeckers in Latvia and as a result of a rather nasty twitching habit, I had seen many of the speciality passerine possibilities in the United Kingdom – Rustic Bunting, Red-flanked Bluetail, Parrot and Two-barred Crossbill, Pine Grosbeak etc. As a result, my targets were Tengmalm’s, Great Grey and Hawk Owl, Hazel Grouse, Siberian Jay and Siberian Tit. Also Willow Grouse was a potential subspecies tick. On a Finnish trip, in light of the entirely acceptable secrecy over the sites, you also have to accept that you will not know exactly where you are!
That said, the organisation was excellent. Two nine-seater minibuses with plenty of windows (though disappointingly tinted rear windows!) had adequate room and very good accommodation with good food and local birding was made available at both localities. The first two nights were at the Airport Hotel near Oulu (http://www.airporthotel.fi/suomi/hotelli/sijainti/) and the third night was at the Sokos Hotel, Kuusamo (http://karttapalvelu.s-kanava.net/kartta/map.html?tpid=515077576&locale=en-US). The first location bordered the Gulf of Kempele and its vicinity meant the group recorded over the two days – in only the first hour or so of birding light and the last hour in the evening – Red-throated Diver, Red-necked Grebe, Garganey, Scaup, Goldeneye, Smew, Red-breasted Merganser, Goosander, Temminck’s Stint, Ruff, Greenshank, Wood Sandpiper, Woodcock, Red-necked Phalarope, Common, Arctic and Little Terns, Short-eared Owl, Grey-headed Wagtail, Black Redstart, Wheatear, Fieldfare, Redwing, Pied and Spotted Flycatchers, Willow Tit, Brambling, Mealy Redpoll and Common Rosefinch. It would have been a suitable locality for a birding break in itself. On a similar basis, the second locality with a large lake on site also produced a superb mix of species to the group – Black-throated Diver, Red-necked Grebe, Whooper Swan, Velvet Scoter, Goldeneye, Smew, Goosander, Wood Sandpiper, Greenshank, Red-necked Phalarope, Little Gull, Arctic Tern, Short-eared Owl, Lesser Spotted Woodpecker, Fieldfare and Redwing.
18.05.12
We flew from Heathrow to Helsinki at 7.30am on Friday 18.05.12. We arrived at Helsinki airport at 12.20pm local time. A frustrating 4 and a half hours was spent at Helsinki airport and almost continual staring out of the window produced around 10 species with the ‘highlights’ being two Whooper Swans and Raven. I dipped two flyby Common Cranes. We took off after a delay to Oulu Airport and cleared the airport shortly after 7.00pm. Unfortunately the weather was poor – overcast and with rain at times heavy for the rest of the evening. We arrived at the Airport Hotel within about 15 minutes to singing Willow Warblers and Fieldfares and after a pleasant dinner, shortly after 8.00pm, we were back in the minibuses en route to mystery site number 1. As I have no idea where these sites are, I will simply number them!
Site 1 (Pygmy Owl) – our first site was to try for Pygmy Owl. After a short walk, we were pointed towards an occupied nest box. By this stage the rain was heavier and it was not a surprise that despite attempting to whistle them up, neither the female appeared at the entrance hole nor the male responded or appeared. So we headed back to the hotel. On the main road as we headed back, the first minibus stopped. For the first time on the trip, those in the second minibus played guess the reason – there was no means of communication between the two minibuses. However, on looking to my right, my bins fell upon a cracking adult male Hazel Grouse about 10 yards away. Thankfully everyone got onto it despite the logistical problems as it slowly moved away deeper into the vegetation. First tick secured. I had not brought my camera out with me that evening because of the weather but I suspect that I would have been unable to get a photo in any event in light of the darkness.
On returning to the hotel and disembarking the minibus, the rain had eased. A quick conversation revealed that of my targets, hopes were high for all but Hawk Owl and that was thought to be exceptionally unlikely with no known pairs in the areas that we were likely to visit. It was time to use the last hour or so of birding light to explore the surroundings. A roding Woodcock immediately flew over and a little way down the main road a singing Pied Flycatcher was holding territory. It later transpired that the grounds contained a number of occupied nest boxes. The area revealed Whooper Swan, Greylag Goose, Wigeon, Shoveler, a redhead Smew (apparently a first-summer male), Red-breasted Merganser, Arctic Terns and a Wheatear. At around 10.45pm, I called it a night and after a swift beer at the hotel bar retired to bed.
19.05.12
My first photo the next morning records the time as 4.40am. I was in the field for about 30 minutes before the minibus left at 5.00am for mystery site number 2. Some cracking views of Wood Sandpiper were had before departure together with a similar mix of species to the night before.
Site 2 (Three-toed Woodpecker) – en route to the site, shortly after 6.00am, we stopped briefly at a Black Grouse lek. At least half a dozen males were seen and in the adjoining woodland a few females. The odd female Black Grouse continued to be seen by roadsides throughout the trip and the last was on 21.05.12 en route back to Oulu Airport from Kuusamo. We arrived at the Three-toed Woodpecker site shortly before 6.30am. We were directed to the nest tree and after an initial brief sighting of the male, and a subsequent wait of about 10 minutes, good views were had of both male and female. En route back to the hotel, a pair of Montagu’s Harriers were seen on a roadside stop with the male perched up for a while showing well.
We were back at the hotel for around 8.00am for breakfast. Again, some birding was grabbed before the minibus departed at 9.30am.
Site 3 (coast) – en route to the coast after breakfast, a stop at around 10.30am to check some roadside fields where a Terek Sandpiper had been displaying the week before proved fruitless. Nevertheless this stop was punctuated with a mix of interesting species with three Waxwings, two overflying Greylag Geese and two Common Cranes. Common Cranes were seen regularly in roadside fields as were Whooper Swans throughout the trip. A further stop shortly down the road revealed some waders and some in the group saw two Golden Plovers. We were at the coast around 11.30am. Good numbers of Arctic Terns showed well and provided a photo opportunity and various duck and waders were seen as small numbers of Little Gulls and Temminck’s Stints passed offshore.
Site 4 (Pygmy Owl) – after the coast, we headed for a second attempt at Pygmy Owl. Before we arrived at the site, there was an impromptu stop after a Black Woodpecker in its usual languid style had flapped across in front of the minibuses. An attempt to tape lure it resulted in a flight view back across the road but thereafter it was uncooperative. We headed on and arrived at the second Pygmy Owl site. It was shortly after midday and to be honest, I was doing my best to maintain some good humour. We effectively had only three days in total in the field and grateful as I was for jamming into the cracking Hazel Grouse on the first evening, I was getting impatient to try for some of my targets! We stopped at the junction of two woodland tracks. A Common Crane flew over swiftly followed by a photogenic immature White-tailed Eagle, a very brief Goshawk flew past and then a Hazel Grouse called. This was all to the background of calling Common Cranes. The Hazel Grouse was then whistled up with a hunting whistle to provide a fly past but did not show thereafter. However, the Pygmy Owl did not respond to an attempt to tape lure it and after a while, we headed off for lunch.
Lunch was to follow a repeated style over the next few days of an ABC service station and a perfectly adequate buffet selection.
Site 5 (Tengmalm’s Owl) – we arrived at a Tengmalm’s Owl site shortly before 3.00pm. As with the first evening and the first Pygmy Owl site, we were led a short distance to what we were told was an occupied nest box. During that walk, a Three-toed Woodpecker performed briefly and the bird continued to call and show whilst we remained on site. However, after the guide had checked for any response from the nest box without success, we were informed that there had been a fully grown juvenile Tengmalm’s Owl that showed itself the previous week but this had now probably fledged. It was suggested that we check the adjoining vegetation for the bird. We were informed that it was likely to be fairly low down. At this stage, my good humour was beginning to evaporate further. However, my low ebb did not last. After about 10 minutes at 3.10pm, a whistle went up that a juvenile had been located. My good humour returned instantly! We watched the juvenile Tengmalm’s Owl for twenty minutes as it looked at its admirers in a rather bemused fashion. An attempt to find a roosting adult proved futile but to some extent the pressure felt off as one of my key targets had been secured.
Site 6 (Great Grey Owl) – we travelled a short distance to what we were told was a Great Grey Owl nest site. After a distance of about 100 metres, one of the party picked up the female Great Grey Owl sitting on its nest though obscured by the trees. We were led around to an unobscured view and spent around 30 minutes from 4.10pm watching this magnificent bird. Attempts to locate the male proved fruitless but with the success of the last hour and a half, stupid content grins were the order of the day throughout the group.
Site 7 (Ural Owl) – en route to the Ural Owl site, we stopped at some roadside fields. These provided the obligatory Wood Sandpipers and two Short-eared Owls. I was busy taking some photos whilst the remainder of the group located an Ortolan Bunting. We arrived at the Ural Owl site. The guide walked in to look for the bird. After ten minutes or so with the bird not having been located, it was suggested that we join the guide. Whilst we stood back, the guide walked in further and shortly after that, a Ural Owl could be heard giving a deep barking warning. At around 6.30pm, the bird flew and landed in view. It was admired for twenty minutes before we headed back to the Hotel for dinner.
After dinner, with the weather forecast predicting heavy rain, a plan to return to the original Pygmy Owl site was shelved for the morning and I spent the period after dinner exploring the area further for a couple of hours. I had done my preparation and approaching the nearby pier on seeing two individuals with fishing rods, I thought my luck was in with Hawk Owl - http://www.finnature.fi/how_to_photograph_a_hunting_hawk_owl_.html. However, to my surprise, rather than photographing Hawk Owls, they were just fishing. A drake Scaup was seen by another member of the group reinforcing the variety available at this locality.
20.05.12
Again, my first photo the next morning records the time as 4.40am. The minibus was heading off at 6.00am so there was a little further time to explore. A search of the area produced a pair of Garganey, female Black Redstart, male Brambling, six Temminck’s Stints and a similar selection of species to previous days. By the time the minibus was leaving at 6.00am, others that morning had seen Red-throated Diver, Red-necked Grebe, four Red-necked Phalaropes and a singing Common Rosefinch.
Site 1 (Pygmy Owl) – we were back at the first Pygmy Owl site at 6.45am and this time in better weather. When we arrived at the site, a group of Common Crossbills was in the trees where we parked. We followed the same route to the nest box. Neither the female nor the male was seen though the guide heard the male call briefly some distance away. Third time was unfortunately not lucky. A brief roadside stop at a Black Woodpecker site on the way back for breakfast at 7.40am provided cracking views of the male over a 15 minute period – in flight, perched and then peering curiously out of the nest hole. The adjoining river produced the obligatory Goldeneye and Common Sandpiper.
After breakfast and checking out we set off for Kuusamo. This is about a 220 kilometre journey. We stopped for a brief rest stop shortly before 11.00am and arrived at our next hotel before 1.00pm. On disembarking the minibuses, it was clear that there was an adjacent lake with Little Gulls and Arctic Terns showing well. A quick check also revealed a Black-throated Diver and a distant flock of Red-necked Phalaropes. We visited a close ABC for lunch and set off for our next mystery site.
Site 8 (Siberian Tit & Siberian Jay) – en route to the first site, a lakeside stop produced another Black-throated Diver. Thereafter, we arrived at a woodland site to search for Siberian Tit and Siberian Jay. More Common Crossbills were seen. However, a search for Siberian Tit proved fruitless. Shortly after 3.00pm, however, on leaving the site, a pair of Siberian Jays was located. These gave great views over the next 20 minutes.
Site 9 (Rustic Bunting & Red-flanked Bluetail) – we headed on again and stopped at a roadside site for Rustic Bunting. This proved fruitless but at 3.50pm, a cracking Honey Buzzard flew in and perched up giving good views. The Rustic Bunting search resumed thereafter and failed again and then we slogged up a nearby hill in search of Red-flanked Bluetail. On returning to the bottom of the hill, a Bluetail was heard but remained distant and unseen not responding to a tape lure. The heavens then opened and we all dived back to the minibuses.
Site 8 (Siberian Tit & Siberian Jay) – we returned to this earlier site but this time drove further into the woodland. Having stopped, we walked into the woodland to an area where we were informed that one of the nestboxes was occupied by Siberian Tit. At 5.30pm, as we stopped to wait and see, a Siberian Tit was immediately picked up in the tree above the box evidently trying to dry itself out. The bird was watched for about half an hour before shortly before 6.00pm, everyone was distracted by a cracking male Capercallie sitting still hiding in the undergrowth nearby.
Site 10 (Willow Grouse) – on the way back to the hotel, we stopped to check a Willow Grouse site. Despite tapes being played for Willow Grouse and Rustic Bunting, neither were successful. However, another Hazel Grouse called and again this responded to being whistled up and two flight views were obtained. (When leaving the site, a further three Hazel Grouse were seen by some in the minibus.)
We returned to the hotel for dinner and an hour or so was spent exploring the lake after dinner. This revealed Muskrat as well as three summer-plumaged Black-throated Divers, two redhead Smew and the flock of seven Red-necked Phalarope. Unfortunately when these were at their closest, the light had really gone being 10.00pm at night! I called it a night shortly after with plans to spend the morning photographing Little Gulls before the minibus was due to depart at 6.00am.
21.05.12
My first photo the next morning was of a Muskrat at 4.00am. The next hour and a half revealed the previous night's birds still present with good numbers of Goldeneye, Arctic Tern and Little Gull particularly pleasing. The Red-necked Phalaropes unfortunately did not come close enough for a photo, a drake Velvet Scoter and two Whooper Swans flew over and Greenshank and Wood and Common Sandpipers were in evidence. Other observers had two Red-necked Grebes nearby and a Lesser Spotted Woodpecker. Again a fantastic area to explore if time was available. But the minibus set off as arranged at 6.00am.
Site 9 (Rustic Bunting & Red-flanked Bluetail) – we returned to yesterday’s site. En route a cracking adult Capercallie gave fantastic views by the roadside. At the site, my highlight was a singing male Brambling though a Rustic Bunting sang from its hidden perch and other observers had two flyover Siberian Jays. The Red-flanked Bluetail from yesterday failed to sing or show.
Site 11 (Willow Grouse) – we headed to a fresh Willow Grouse site. We arrived on site and again tried to tape lure the bird. A male responded and was seen by some flying between the trees but I had no success. The first minibus left and as we were driving away a cracking male Willow Grouse flew in and gave superb views by the roadside. Unfortunately, being on the wrong side of the minibus, pictures were not possible but having accepted by the first evening that it was clear that Hawk Owl was a forlorn hope for this trip, the last of my potential targets had been secured. A telephone call was put in to the first minibus to return but a further attempt to tape lure it failed.
En route back to breakfast, at 8.30am, a roadside lake produced a pair of Red-necked Grebes and a pair of Smew. After breakfast and a last check of the ‘hotel lake’, we were checked out and on the road by 10.00am.
Site 10 (Willow Grouse) – we returned to yesterday’s first Willow Grouse site. It reinforced the fact that it was clearly a cracking Hazel Grouse site when a further bird flew across the road. An attempt to tape lure Rustic Bunting failed and we returned to the area where we had had the most Hazel Grouse sightings over the last two days to try for a more cooperative bird. Whilst standing there, at 10.45am, a Raven called and one of the party turned round to see if he could see it but was immediately distracted by an adult Tengmalm’s Owl sitting in a tree looking down at us. The bird was into the sun and quickly moved into thicker cover. Whilst some of the party spread out, and indeed had good views of a Willow Grouse as it flew down the road, the photographers remained transfixed by the Owl and found a better vantage point (though obscured) with the light behind them. However, at around 11.15am it was time to move.
Site 12 (Rustic Bunting) – when I realised that we were en route to a further Rustic Bunting site, I was already beginning to try and remember how many I had seen in the UK but our guide appeared to be on a mission to show us one! A final Hazel Grouse of the trip had flown across in front of us before we arrived at the site but when we were there, a tape lure attempt failed and we were on our way relatively swiftly to our final site.
Site 13 (Kuusamo Tip) – at 11.45am, it was good to finally be at a site that I knew! I suppose it is difficult to be secretive about a rubbish dump. Immediately on arriving I set about stringing gulls. I was of the view that I had seen around 15 fuscus Lesser Black-backed Gulls and 3 heuglini Lesser Black-backed Gulls before I had left but to be frank, though I like to think I am learning, I’m not really qualified to comment! The total is now revised to two heuglini. I did recognise the adult or near-adult White-tailed Eagle which flew over and caused chaos. We left the site at 12.20am en route back to Oulu Airport.
The journey was uneventful and punctuated by a lunch stop at an ABC service station. For those travelling between Kuusamo and Oulu, keep your eyes open for a thirty foot high effigy of a troll on the south side of the road. We did not stop but had time to glimpse stairs leading up to a door in his backside about ten foot off the ground. If you do visit and discover what you actually do inside the backside of a thirty foot troll effigy I would be genuinely interested to know. Despite it being a topic of conversation en route back to Oulu, no-one could come up with any credible ideas. We were at Oulu Airport before 4.00pm and at 5.05pm in the air heading for Helsinki on our connecting flight to Heathrow. We arrived back at Heathrow at around 9.20pm after a mercifully shorter stop at Helsinki airport (despite a delay).
The following species list is my personal one – the group saw more (as is apparent from the commentary above) and as is the usual rule for such excursions, my single observer sightings will not appear in the ‘official’ record:-
Black-throated Diver – up to three summer-plumaged birds were seen on the adjacent lake to the Sokos Hotel on 20.05.12 and 21.05.12 and a further summer-plumaged bird also on 20.05.12
Great Crested Grebe
Red-necked Grebe – pair at a roadside lake on 21.05.12.
Cormorant
Whooper Swan – a frequent sight from Helsinki airport on 18.05.12 to the route back to Oulu airport on 21.05.12.
Greylag Goose – a couple of pairs seen.
Shelduck
Wigeon
Mallard
Shoveler
Teal
Garganey – a pair near the Airport Hotel at Oulu on 20.05.12.
Tufted Duck
Velvet Scoter – a drake at the lake at the Sokos Hotel at Kuusamo on 21.05.12.
Goldeneye
Smew – a redhead (apparently first-summer male) on 18.05.12 and a pair at a roadside lake and two redheads at the lake at the Sokos Hotel at Kuusamo on 20.05.12.
Red-breasted Merganser
Goosander
Hen Harrier – a single ringtail seen from the minibus on 19.05.12.
Montagu’s Harrier – a pair seen on 19.05.12.
Marsh Harrier – a single seen from the minibus on 19.05.12.
Sparrowhawk – three seen.
Goshawk – a single very brief sighting on 19.05.12.
Honey Buzzard – a single seen well perched on 20.05.12.
White-tailed Eagle – a 3CY seen on 19.05.12 and a near-adult/adult on 21.05.12.
Osprey – a single seen at the coast distantly on 19.05.12.
Kestrel – three seen.
Merlin – a single seen from the minibus on 19.05.12.
Willow Grouse – a single male seen well on 21.05.12.
Capercallie – males seen well on 20.05.12 and 21.05.12.
Black Grouse – males seen at a lek on 19.05.12 and sporadic sightings of females from the minibus.
Hazel Grouse – a male seen well on 18.05.12 by the roadside and four further sightings in flight.
[Red-legged Partridge – bizarrely two presumed escapes – seen well enough from the minibus to at least conclude their genes were mostly Red-legged Partridge on 19.05.12.]
Crane – a frequent sight from Helsinki airport on 18.05.12 (albeit not by me) to the route back to Oulu airport on 21.05.12.
Oystercatcher
Ringed Plover
Lapwing
Temminck’s Stint – up to 20 seen on the coast on 19.05.12 and 6 near the Airport Hotel at Oulu on 20.05.12.
Ruff
Curlew
Whimbrel
Redshank
Greenshank
Wood Sandpiper – a frequent sight from edges of lakes, saltmarshes and even puddles in fields!
Common Sandpiper
Woodcock – roding birds at the Airport Hotel at Oulu on 18.05.12 and 19.05.12.
Common Snipe – drumming birds seen at two sites.
Red-necked Phalarope – a flock of seven at the lake adjacent to the Sokos Hotel at Kuusamo on 20.05.12 and 21.05.12.
Little Gull – twenty flew by on the coast on 19.05.12 and common in the Kuusamo area with about 300 at the lake adjacent to the Sokos Hotel at Kuusamo on 20.05.12 and 21.05.12.
Black-headed Gull
Common Gull
Herring Gull
Lesser Black-backed Gull (fuscus) – at least 15 at Kuusamo Tip on 21.05.12.
Lesser Black-backed Gull (heuglini) – two apparent heuglini seen at Kuusamo Tip on 21.05.12.
Great Black-backed Gull – a single at Kuusamo Tip on 21.05.12 that at the time I misidentified as a heuglini.
Common Tern
Arctic Tern
Little Tern
Wood Pigeon
Feral Pigeon
Cuckoo
Short-eared Owl
Ural Owl – single on 19.05.12.
Great Grey Owl – single female on 19.05.12.
Tengmalm’s Owl – juvenile on 19.05.12 and adult on 21.05.12.
Swift
Black Woodpecker – single in flight on 19.05.12 and male on 20.05.12.
Great Spotted Woodpecker
Three-toed Woodpecker – pair and a male at separate sites on 19.05.12.
Skylark
Sand Martin
Swallow
House Martin
Tree Pipit
White Wagtail
Grey-headed Wagtail
Waxwing – three on 19.05.12.
Dunnock
Robin
Red-flanked Bluetail – single male heard singing on 20.05.12.
Redstart – single male heard singing on 21.05.12.
Black Redstart – female on 20.05.12.
Whinchat – three seen.
Wheatear – single figures seen.
Blackbird
Fieldfare – the commonest thrush.
Redwing – the second commonest thrust.
Song Thrush
Sedge Warbler – two heard on 20.05.12.
Lesser Whitethroat – two seen and heard on 19.05.12.
Blackcap – single heard on 19.05.12 and 20.05.12.
Willow Warbler – very frequent.
Goldcrest
Pied Flycatcher – common.
Spotted Flycatcher – relatively frequently seen.
Siberian Tit – single on 20.05.12.
Willow Tit – single on 20.05.12 and on 21.05.12.
Blue Tit
Great Tit
Treecreeper
Siberian Jay – pair seen on 20.05.12.
Jay
Magpie
Jackdaw
Raven
Hooded Crow
Rook
House Sparrow
Chaffinch
Brambling
Siskin
Greenfinch
Bullfinch
Mealy Redpoll
Common Crossbill
Yellowhammer
Rustic Bunting – single male heard singing on 21.05.12.
Reed Bunting
116 Species
So in summary, from my personal perspective, I found it an excellent trip with a very capable guide and some very good company but it is a limited number of targets that are unpredictable and I will continue to stare longingly at photos of Hawk Owls (at least for the time being). Despite the fact that it is expensive in proportion to the number of potential new birds, the local birding is excellent and the quality of some of the support birds cannot be ignored. Do not touch this type of trip if you object to visiting nest sites or the use of tape lures but remember that it is to avoid undue pressure on the birds that Finnature maintain such secrecy on the sites so personally for me that was not a concern – particularly in light of the excellent work they do in the conservation of the very species targeted.
I’ll now post some pictures.
All the best
I went with a tour company. The size of the group – 12 in total – plus a guide travelling from the UK and the Finnature guide was daunting. However, it was rapidly apparent that those on the trip were pretty focussed serious birdwatchers (apart from my wife along for the general experience and a few cute owls!). As a result, none of the usual problems of large groups occurred.
A number of the participants had been carefully considering the trip for a while. So why had individuals waited? The main reasons were – the limited number of potential new birds, the expense of the trip in comparison to that number and the unpredictability of some of the targets. However, at the end of the trip, all were very pleased that they had made the effort and some of the birding experiences were likely to be very high amongst their most memorable of several decades birding.
I do struggle with birding in organised groups. With friends, you can research the sites, discuss the targets, set your own itinerary and maintain some flexibility for anything that proves tricky. On a tour, you have to accept that priorities will differ, the itinerary will be set and you will not know what you are targeting and when! I had seen Pygmy and Ural Owls and Three-toed and Black Woodpeckers in Latvia and as a result of a rather nasty twitching habit, I had seen many of the speciality passerine possibilities in the United Kingdom – Rustic Bunting, Red-flanked Bluetail, Parrot and Two-barred Crossbill, Pine Grosbeak etc. As a result, my targets were Tengmalm’s, Great Grey and Hawk Owl, Hazel Grouse, Siberian Jay and Siberian Tit. Also Willow Grouse was a potential subspecies tick. On a Finnish trip, in light of the entirely acceptable secrecy over the sites, you also have to accept that you will not know exactly where you are!
That said, the organisation was excellent. Two nine-seater minibuses with plenty of windows (though disappointingly tinted rear windows!) had adequate room and very good accommodation with good food and local birding was made available at both localities. The first two nights were at the Airport Hotel near Oulu (http://www.airporthotel.fi/suomi/hotelli/sijainti/) and the third night was at the Sokos Hotel, Kuusamo (http://karttapalvelu.s-kanava.net/kartta/map.html?tpid=515077576&locale=en-US). The first location bordered the Gulf of Kempele and its vicinity meant the group recorded over the two days – in only the first hour or so of birding light and the last hour in the evening – Red-throated Diver, Red-necked Grebe, Garganey, Scaup, Goldeneye, Smew, Red-breasted Merganser, Goosander, Temminck’s Stint, Ruff, Greenshank, Wood Sandpiper, Woodcock, Red-necked Phalarope, Common, Arctic and Little Terns, Short-eared Owl, Grey-headed Wagtail, Black Redstart, Wheatear, Fieldfare, Redwing, Pied and Spotted Flycatchers, Willow Tit, Brambling, Mealy Redpoll and Common Rosefinch. It would have been a suitable locality for a birding break in itself. On a similar basis, the second locality with a large lake on site also produced a superb mix of species to the group – Black-throated Diver, Red-necked Grebe, Whooper Swan, Velvet Scoter, Goldeneye, Smew, Goosander, Wood Sandpiper, Greenshank, Red-necked Phalarope, Little Gull, Arctic Tern, Short-eared Owl, Lesser Spotted Woodpecker, Fieldfare and Redwing.
18.05.12
We flew from Heathrow to Helsinki at 7.30am on Friday 18.05.12. We arrived at Helsinki airport at 12.20pm local time. A frustrating 4 and a half hours was spent at Helsinki airport and almost continual staring out of the window produced around 10 species with the ‘highlights’ being two Whooper Swans and Raven. I dipped two flyby Common Cranes. We took off after a delay to Oulu Airport and cleared the airport shortly after 7.00pm. Unfortunately the weather was poor – overcast and with rain at times heavy for the rest of the evening. We arrived at the Airport Hotel within about 15 minutes to singing Willow Warblers and Fieldfares and after a pleasant dinner, shortly after 8.00pm, we were back in the minibuses en route to mystery site number 1. As I have no idea where these sites are, I will simply number them!
Site 1 (Pygmy Owl) – our first site was to try for Pygmy Owl. After a short walk, we were pointed towards an occupied nest box. By this stage the rain was heavier and it was not a surprise that despite attempting to whistle them up, neither the female appeared at the entrance hole nor the male responded or appeared. So we headed back to the hotel. On the main road as we headed back, the first minibus stopped. For the first time on the trip, those in the second minibus played guess the reason – there was no means of communication between the two minibuses. However, on looking to my right, my bins fell upon a cracking adult male Hazel Grouse about 10 yards away. Thankfully everyone got onto it despite the logistical problems as it slowly moved away deeper into the vegetation. First tick secured. I had not brought my camera out with me that evening because of the weather but I suspect that I would have been unable to get a photo in any event in light of the darkness.
On returning to the hotel and disembarking the minibus, the rain had eased. A quick conversation revealed that of my targets, hopes were high for all but Hawk Owl and that was thought to be exceptionally unlikely with no known pairs in the areas that we were likely to visit. It was time to use the last hour or so of birding light to explore the surroundings. A roding Woodcock immediately flew over and a little way down the main road a singing Pied Flycatcher was holding territory. It later transpired that the grounds contained a number of occupied nest boxes. The area revealed Whooper Swan, Greylag Goose, Wigeon, Shoveler, a redhead Smew (apparently a first-summer male), Red-breasted Merganser, Arctic Terns and a Wheatear. At around 10.45pm, I called it a night and after a swift beer at the hotel bar retired to bed.
19.05.12
My first photo the next morning records the time as 4.40am. I was in the field for about 30 minutes before the minibus left at 5.00am for mystery site number 2. Some cracking views of Wood Sandpiper were had before departure together with a similar mix of species to the night before.
Site 2 (Three-toed Woodpecker) – en route to the site, shortly after 6.00am, we stopped briefly at a Black Grouse lek. At least half a dozen males were seen and in the adjoining woodland a few females. The odd female Black Grouse continued to be seen by roadsides throughout the trip and the last was on 21.05.12 en route back to Oulu Airport from Kuusamo. We arrived at the Three-toed Woodpecker site shortly before 6.30am. We were directed to the nest tree and after an initial brief sighting of the male, and a subsequent wait of about 10 minutes, good views were had of both male and female. En route back to the hotel, a pair of Montagu’s Harriers were seen on a roadside stop with the male perched up for a while showing well.
We were back at the hotel for around 8.00am for breakfast. Again, some birding was grabbed before the minibus departed at 9.30am.
Site 3 (coast) – en route to the coast after breakfast, a stop at around 10.30am to check some roadside fields where a Terek Sandpiper had been displaying the week before proved fruitless. Nevertheless this stop was punctuated with a mix of interesting species with three Waxwings, two overflying Greylag Geese and two Common Cranes. Common Cranes were seen regularly in roadside fields as were Whooper Swans throughout the trip. A further stop shortly down the road revealed some waders and some in the group saw two Golden Plovers. We were at the coast around 11.30am. Good numbers of Arctic Terns showed well and provided a photo opportunity and various duck and waders were seen as small numbers of Little Gulls and Temminck’s Stints passed offshore.
Site 4 (Pygmy Owl) – after the coast, we headed for a second attempt at Pygmy Owl. Before we arrived at the site, there was an impromptu stop after a Black Woodpecker in its usual languid style had flapped across in front of the minibuses. An attempt to tape lure it resulted in a flight view back across the road but thereafter it was uncooperative. We headed on and arrived at the second Pygmy Owl site. It was shortly after midday and to be honest, I was doing my best to maintain some good humour. We effectively had only three days in total in the field and grateful as I was for jamming into the cracking Hazel Grouse on the first evening, I was getting impatient to try for some of my targets! We stopped at the junction of two woodland tracks. A Common Crane flew over swiftly followed by a photogenic immature White-tailed Eagle, a very brief Goshawk flew past and then a Hazel Grouse called. This was all to the background of calling Common Cranes. The Hazel Grouse was then whistled up with a hunting whistle to provide a fly past but did not show thereafter. However, the Pygmy Owl did not respond to an attempt to tape lure it and after a while, we headed off for lunch.
Lunch was to follow a repeated style over the next few days of an ABC service station and a perfectly adequate buffet selection.
Site 5 (Tengmalm’s Owl) – we arrived at a Tengmalm’s Owl site shortly before 3.00pm. As with the first evening and the first Pygmy Owl site, we were led a short distance to what we were told was an occupied nest box. During that walk, a Three-toed Woodpecker performed briefly and the bird continued to call and show whilst we remained on site. However, after the guide had checked for any response from the nest box without success, we were informed that there had been a fully grown juvenile Tengmalm’s Owl that showed itself the previous week but this had now probably fledged. It was suggested that we check the adjoining vegetation for the bird. We were informed that it was likely to be fairly low down. At this stage, my good humour was beginning to evaporate further. However, my low ebb did not last. After about 10 minutes at 3.10pm, a whistle went up that a juvenile had been located. My good humour returned instantly! We watched the juvenile Tengmalm’s Owl for twenty minutes as it looked at its admirers in a rather bemused fashion. An attempt to find a roosting adult proved futile but to some extent the pressure felt off as one of my key targets had been secured.
Site 6 (Great Grey Owl) – we travelled a short distance to what we were told was a Great Grey Owl nest site. After a distance of about 100 metres, one of the party picked up the female Great Grey Owl sitting on its nest though obscured by the trees. We were led around to an unobscured view and spent around 30 minutes from 4.10pm watching this magnificent bird. Attempts to locate the male proved fruitless but with the success of the last hour and a half, stupid content grins were the order of the day throughout the group.
Site 7 (Ural Owl) – en route to the Ural Owl site, we stopped at some roadside fields. These provided the obligatory Wood Sandpipers and two Short-eared Owls. I was busy taking some photos whilst the remainder of the group located an Ortolan Bunting. We arrived at the Ural Owl site. The guide walked in to look for the bird. After ten minutes or so with the bird not having been located, it was suggested that we join the guide. Whilst we stood back, the guide walked in further and shortly after that, a Ural Owl could be heard giving a deep barking warning. At around 6.30pm, the bird flew and landed in view. It was admired for twenty minutes before we headed back to the Hotel for dinner.
After dinner, with the weather forecast predicting heavy rain, a plan to return to the original Pygmy Owl site was shelved for the morning and I spent the period after dinner exploring the area further for a couple of hours. I had done my preparation and approaching the nearby pier on seeing two individuals with fishing rods, I thought my luck was in with Hawk Owl - http://www.finnature.fi/how_to_photograph_a_hunting_hawk_owl_.html. However, to my surprise, rather than photographing Hawk Owls, they were just fishing. A drake Scaup was seen by another member of the group reinforcing the variety available at this locality.
20.05.12
Again, my first photo the next morning records the time as 4.40am. The minibus was heading off at 6.00am so there was a little further time to explore. A search of the area produced a pair of Garganey, female Black Redstart, male Brambling, six Temminck’s Stints and a similar selection of species to previous days. By the time the minibus was leaving at 6.00am, others that morning had seen Red-throated Diver, Red-necked Grebe, four Red-necked Phalaropes and a singing Common Rosefinch.
Site 1 (Pygmy Owl) – we were back at the first Pygmy Owl site at 6.45am and this time in better weather. When we arrived at the site, a group of Common Crossbills was in the trees where we parked. We followed the same route to the nest box. Neither the female nor the male was seen though the guide heard the male call briefly some distance away. Third time was unfortunately not lucky. A brief roadside stop at a Black Woodpecker site on the way back for breakfast at 7.40am provided cracking views of the male over a 15 minute period – in flight, perched and then peering curiously out of the nest hole. The adjoining river produced the obligatory Goldeneye and Common Sandpiper.
After breakfast and checking out we set off for Kuusamo. This is about a 220 kilometre journey. We stopped for a brief rest stop shortly before 11.00am and arrived at our next hotel before 1.00pm. On disembarking the minibuses, it was clear that there was an adjacent lake with Little Gulls and Arctic Terns showing well. A quick check also revealed a Black-throated Diver and a distant flock of Red-necked Phalaropes. We visited a close ABC for lunch and set off for our next mystery site.
Site 8 (Siberian Tit & Siberian Jay) – en route to the first site, a lakeside stop produced another Black-throated Diver. Thereafter, we arrived at a woodland site to search for Siberian Tit and Siberian Jay. More Common Crossbills were seen. However, a search for Siberian Tit proved fruitless. Shortly after 3.00pm, however, on leaving the site, a pair of Siberian Jays was located. These gave great views over the next 20 minutes.
Site 9 (Rustic Bunting & Red-flanked Bluetail) – we headed on again and stopped at a roadside site for Rustic Bunting. This proved fruitless but at 3.50pm, a cracking Honey Buzzard flew in and perched up giving good views. The Rustic Bunting search resumed thereafter and failed again and then we slogged up a nearby hill in search of Red-flanked Bluetail. On returning to the bottom of the hill, a Bluetail was heard but remained distant and unseen not responding to a tape lure. The heavens then opened and we all dived back to the minibuses.
Site 8 (Siberian Tit & Siberian Jay) – we returned to this earlier site but this time drove further into the woodland. Having stopped, we walked into the woodland to an area where we were informed that one of the nestboxes was occupied by Siberian Tit. At 5.30pm, as we stopped to wait and see, a Siberian Tit was immediately picked up in the tree above the box evidently trying to dry itself out. The bird was watched for about half an hour before shortly before 6.00pm, everyone was distracted by a cracking male Capercallie sitting still hiding in the undergrowth nearby.
Site 10 (Willow Grouse) – on the way back to the hotel, we stopped to check a Willow Grouse site. Despite tapes being played for Willow Grouse and Rustic Bunting, neither were successful. However, another Hazel Grouse called and again this responded to being whistled up and two flight views were obtained. (When leaving the site, a further three Hazel Grouse were seen by some in the minibus.)
We returned to the hotel for dinner and an hour or so was spent exploring the lake after dinner. This revealed Muskrat as well as three summer-plumaged Black-throated Divers, two redhead Smew and the flock of seven Red-necked Phalarope. Unfortunately when these were at their closest, the light had really gone being 10.00pm at night! I called it a night shortly after with plans to spend the morning photographing Little Gulls before the minibus was due to depart at 6.00am.
21.05.12
My first photo the next morning was of a Muskrat at 4.00am. The next hour and a half revealed the previous night's birds still present with good numbers of Goldeneye, Arctic Tern and Little Gull particularly pleasing. The Red-necked Phalaropes unfortunately did not come close enough for a photo, a drake Velvet Scoter and two Whooper Swans flew over and Greenshank and Wood and Common Sandpipers were in evidence. Other observers had two Red-necked Grebes nearby and a Lesser Spotted Woodpecker. Again a fantastic area to explore if time was available. But the minibus set off as arranged at 6.00am.
Site 9 (Rustic Bunting & Red-flanked Bluetail) – we returned to yesterday’s site. En route a cracking adult Capercallie gave fantastic views by the roadside. At the site, my highlight was a singing male Brambling though a Rustic Bunting sang from its hidden perch and other observers had two flyover Siberian Jays. The Red-flanked Bluetail from yesterday failed to sing or show.
Site 11 (Willow Grouse) – we headed to a fresh Willow Grouse site. We arrived on site and again tried to tape lure the bird. A male responded and was seen by some flying between the trees but I had no success. The first minibus left and as we were driving away a cracking male Willow Grouse flew in and gave superb views by the roadside. Unfortunately, being on the wrong side of the minibus, pictures were not possible but having accepted by the first evening that it was clear that Hawk Owl was a forlorn hope for this trip, the last of my potential targets had been secured. A telephone call was put in to the first minibus to return but a further attempt to tape lure it failed.
En route back to breakfast, at 8.30am, a roadside lake produced a pair of Red-necked Grebes and a pair of Smew. After breakfast and a last check of the ‘hotel lake’, we were checked out and on the road by 10.00am.
Site 10 (Willow Grouse) – we returned to yesterday’s first Willow Grouse site. It reinforced the fact that it was clearly a cracking Hazel Grouse site when a further bird flew across the road. An attempt to tape lure Rustic Bunting failed and we returned to the area where we had had the most Hazel Grouse sightings over the last two days to try for a more cooperative bird. Whilst standing there, at 10.45am, a Raven called and one of the party turned round to see if he could see it but was immediately distracted by an adult Tengmalm’s Owl sitting in a tree looking down at us. The bird was into the sun and quickly moved into thicker cover. Whilst some of the party spread out, and indeed had good views of a Willow Grouse as it flew down the road, the photographers remained transfixed by the Owl and found a better vantage point (though obscured) with the light behind them. However, at around 11.15am it was time to move.
Site 12 (Rustic Bunting) – when I realised that we were en route to a further Rustic Bunting site, I was already beginning to try and remember how many I had seen in the UK but our guide appeared to be on a mission to show us one! A final Hazel Grouse of the trip had flown across in front of us before we arrived at the site but when we were there, a tape lure attempt failed and we were on our way relatively swiftly to our final site.
Site 13 (Kuusamo Tip) – at 11.45am, it was good to finally be at a site that I knew! I suppose it is difficult to be secretive about a rubbish dump. Immediately on arriving I set about stringing gulls. I was of the view that I had seen around 15 fuscus Lesser Black-backed Gulls and 3 heuglini Lesser Black-backed Gulls before I had left but to be frank, though I like to think I am learning, I’m not really qualified to comment! The total is now revised to two heuglini. I did recognise the adult or near-adult White-tailed Eagle which flew over and caused chaos. We left the site at 12.20am en route back to Oulu Airport.
The journey was uneventful and punctuated by a lunch stop at an ABC service station. For those travelling between Kuusamo and Oulu, keep your eyes open for a thirty foot high effigy of a troll on the south side of the road. We did not stop but had time to glimpse stairs leading up to a door in his backside about ten foot off the ground. If you do visit and discover what you actually do inside the backside of a thirty foot troll effigy I would be genuinely interested to know. Despite it being a topic of conversation en route back to Oulu, no-one could come up with any credible ideas. We were at Oulu Airport before 4.00pm and at 5.05pm in the air heading for Helsinki on our connecting flight to Heathrow. We arrived back at Heathrow at around 9.20pm after a mercifully shorter stop at Helsinki airport (despite a delay).
The following species list is my personal one – the group saw more (as is apparent from the commentary above) and as is the usual rule for such excursions, my single observer sightings will not appear in the ‘official’ record:-
Black-throated Diver – up to three summer-plumaged birds were seen on the adjacent lake to the Sokos Hotel on 20.05.12 and 21.05.12 and a further summer-plumaged bird also on 20.05.12
Great Crested Grebe
Red-necked Grebe – pair at a roadside lake on 21.05.12.
Cormorant
Whooper Swan – a frequent sight from Helsinki airport on 18.05.12 to the route back to Oulu airport on 21.05.12.
Greylag Goose – a couple of pairs seen.
Shelduck
Wigeon
Mallard
Shoveler
Teal
Garganey – a pair near the Airport Hotel at Oulu on 20.05.12.
Tufted Duck
Velvet Scoter – a drake at the lake at the Sokos Hotel at Kuusamo on 21.05.12.
Goldeneye
Smew – a redhead (apparently first-summer male) on 18.05.12 and a pair at a roadside lake and two redheads at the lake at the Sokos Hotel at Kuusamo on 20.05.12.
Red-breasted Merganser
Goosander
Hen Harrier – a single ringtail seen from the minibus on 19.05.12.
Montagu’s Harrier – a pair seen on 19.05.12.
Marsh Harrier – a single seen from the minibus on 19.05.12.
Sparrowhawk – three seen.
Goshawk – a single very brief sighting on 19.05.12.
Honey Buzzard – a single seen well perched on 20.05.12.
White-tailed Eagle – a 3CY seen on 19.05.12 and a near-adult/adult on 21.05.12.
Osprey – a single seen at the coast distantly on 19.05.12.
Kestrel – three seen.
Merlin – a single seen from the minibus on 19.05.12.
Willow Grouse – a single male seen well on 21.05.12.
Capercallie – males seen well on 20.05.12 and 21.05.12.
Black Grouse – males seen at a lek on 19.05.12 and sporadic sightings of females from the minibus.
Hazel Grouse – a male seen well on 18.05.12 by the roadside and four further sightings in flight.
[Red-legged Partridge – bizarrely two presumed escapes – seen well enough from the minibus to at least conclude their genes were mostly Red-legged Partridge on 19.05.12.]
Crane – a frequent sight from Helsinki airport on 18.05.12 (albeit not by me) to the route back to Oulu airport on 21.05.12.
Oystercatcher
Ringed Plover
Lapwing
Temminck’s Stint – up to 20 seen on the coast on 19.05.12 and 6 near the Airport Hotel at Oulu on 20.05.12.
Ruff
Curlew
Whimbrel
Redshank
Greenshank
Wood Sandpiper – a frequent sight from edges of lakes, saltmarshes and even puddles in fields!
Common Sandpiper
Woodcock – roding birds at the Airport Hotel at Oulu on 18.05.12 and 19.05.12.
Common Snipe – drumming birds seen at two sites.
Red-necked Phalarope – a flock of seven at the lake adjacent to the Sokos Hotel at Kuusamo on 20.05.12 and 21.05.12.
Little Gull – twenty flew by on the coast on 19.05.12 and common in the Kuusamo area with about 300 at the lake adjacent to the Sokos Hotel at Kuusamo on 20.05.12 and 21.05.12.
Black-headed Gull
Common Gull
Herring Gull
Lesser Black-backed Gull (fuscus) – at least 15 at Kuusamo Tip on 21.05.12.
Lesser Black-backed Gull (heuglini) – two apparent heuglini seen at Kuusamo Tip on 21.05.12.
Great Black-backed Gull – a single at Kuusamo Tip on 21.05.12 that at the time I misidentified as a heuglini.
Common Tern
Arctic Tern
Little Tern
Wood Pigeon
Feral Pigeon
Cuckoo
Short-eared Owl
Ural Owl – single on 19.05.12.
Great Grey Owl – single female on 19.05.12.
Tengmalm’s Owl – juvenile on 19.05.12 and adult on 21.05.12.
Swift
Black Woodpecker – single in flight on 19.05.12 and male on 20.05.12.
Great Spotted Woodpecker
Three-toed Woodpecker – pair and a male at separate sites on 19.05.12.
Skylark
Sand Martin
Swallow
House Martin
Tree Pipit
White Wagtail
Grey-headed Wagtail
Waxwing – three on 19.05.12.
Dunnock
Robin
Red-flanked Bluetail – single male heard singing on 20.05.12.
Redstart – single male heard singing on 21.05.12.
Black Redstart – female on 20.05.12.
Whinchat – three seen.
Wheatear – single figures seen.
Blackbird
Fieldfare – the commonest thrush.
Redwing – the second commonest thrust.
Song Thrush
Sedge Warbler – two heard on 20.05.12.
Lesser Whitethroat – two seen and heard on 19.05.12.
Blackcap – single heard on 19.05.12 and 20.05.12.
Willow Warbler – very frequent.
Goldcrest
Pied Flycatcher – common.
Spotted Flycatcher – relatively frequently seen.
Siberian Tit – single on 20.05.12.
Willow Tit – single on 20.05.12 and on 21.05.12.
Blue Tit
Great Tit
Treecreeper
Siberian Jay – pair seen on 20.05.12.
Jay
Magpie
Jackdaw
Raven
Hooded Crow
Rook
House Sparrow
Chaffinch
Brambling
Siskin
Greenfinch
Bullfinch
Mealy Redpoll
Common Crossbill
Yellowhammer
Rustic Bunting – single male heard singing on 21.05.12.
Reed Bunting
116 Species
So in summary, from my personal perspective, I found it an excellent trip with a very capable guide and some very good company but it is a limited number of targets that are unpredictable and I will continue to stare longingly at photos of Hawk Owls (at least for the time being). Despite the fact that it is expensive in proportion to the number of potential new birds, the local birding is excellent and the quality of some of the support birds cannot be ignored. Do not touch this type of trip if you object to visiting nest sites or the use of tape lures but remember that it is to avoid undue pressure on the birds that Finnature maintain such secrecy on the sites so personally for me that was not a concern – particularly in light of the excellent work they do in the conservation of the very species targeted.
I’ll now post some pictures.
All the best
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